If the tourist hordes laying siege to Guangxi Province's Guilin have you scaling its limestone peaks to escape, head 80 km downriver by boat, bus, bicycle or taxi to Yangshuo. Shouldered by the Li River, Yangshuo is home to jutting karst pinnacles, rich rice-paddy farmland and mellow villages, all linked by crisscrossing waterways, small roads and backcountry paths.
All this makes it ideal for cycle tours, hiking, rock climbing, rafting, caving, kayaking and more, including Impression of Liu Sanjie, a choreographed outdoor multimedia extravaganza directed by famed filmmaker Zhang Yimou, creator of the 2008 Beijing Olympics Opening Ceremony. Every evening during spring, summer and fall, hundreds of dancers and singers enact the ancient tale of local heroine Liu Sanjie against a natural karst backdrop that soars above the river, colorfully lit up by a dynamic lightshow. Other highlight attractions include Green Lotus Peak, Moon Hill, Yangdi Village and the Yulong River, a tributary of the Li that winds through a lush karst wonderland as flotillas of bamboo pleasure rafts drift along for a distance before leaving the rest of the river to farmers, fishermen, buffalo, waterfowl, and the occasional kayaker.
Back in town, Yangshuo's cafes, bars and restaurants fill up morning and night, keeping backpackers and climbers well fed and watered with a decent-to-excellent range of international options alongside local eateries. Visitors quickly discover the West Street (Xi Jie) pedestrian zone, where accommodations are to be found along with souvenir shops, bars, restaurants and booking offices for river tours, climbing expeditions, balloon rides, kayaking and more.
All of this does come with its price, of course. Yanghshuo does afford escape from the crowds if you look hard enough (and don't mind getting your shoes a little dirty), but you'll still want to keep your elbows sharp. 1.5 million tourists descend upon it each year, making National holidays particularly crowded and expensive. Off-peak periods are far more reasonable, helping the region keep its backpacker bona fides, but tourist prices are significantly inflated. Expect to haggle for almost everything.
History
There seems to be an old saying for just about every inch of China. Guilin and Yangshuo are no exception: "Guilin's scenery is the best under heaven, Yangshuo's scenery is the best in Guilin." So there you have it.
All superlatives aside, Yangshuo's recorded history goes back at least 1,400 years, though the area has known human settlement for many more. Guangxi's rugged landscape, combined with frequent rains and plentiful groundwater, has made it both an attractive place to both farm and escape authority. These qualities resulted in a sometimes rebellious land where imperial Chinese settlement first gained footholds along navigable rivers, starting as early as the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) and really taking firm hold by the Sui Dynasty (581-618 AD). However, the Chinese ceding control of the back country and highlands to various non-Han Chinese natives, including the Miao, Dong, Yao and Zhuang peoples (now all official PRC "ethnic minorities" within the predominantly Han state).
By the time of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), imperial control over the region had been bolstered by canal projects linking the region's fertile lands to northern markets via the Yangzi (Yangtze) River. Still, Yanghshuo and Guilin remained fairly remote from imperial power centered to the north, even as it gained fame among poets, painters and emperors for its extraordinary topography.
Ever since the region's administrative divisions were set up centuries ago, Yangshou County and its town have been subsidiary to the larger urban center Guilin. Today, the two cities are linked in most people's minds as the terminal ends of the classic Li River cruise. Along with tourism, the region remains a major agricultural region that produces vast amounts of rice as well as chili peppers, pomelo and many other subtropical delicacies, including famous Guilin rice noodles and Guilin and Yangshuo chili pastes and sauces.
In recent years, Yangshuo, home to some 300,000 souls, has quickly become a backpacker hotspot as China has opened up to the outside world. Since the early 1980s, it's developed at a steady pace without losing too much of its low-key charm while gaining much in range and style of accommodations, restaurant culture and activities.
Climate
The best time of year to be in Yangshuo is between April and October. The subtropical climate makes for rain and humidity all year round; summers are generally the wettest and lushest. They are also quite hot, averaging 28°C (83°F).
Expect frequent afternoon showers in the summer months, and be sure to drink plenty of water and use sunscreen when out and about. Winter brings moderate temperatures (8°C (46 °F)) and rain.
Yangshuo is at its greenest towards the end of spring and it remains verdant through summer and into early fall; this is also when the Li and Yulong rivers run highest and clearest (the Yulong is generally clean enough to swim, while the larger Li has a reputation for pollution).
Always keep in mind when exploring the area that heavy rains can fall at any time, causing flash flooding and loosening soil, making things slippery and unstable.
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Among the backpacker and budget set, the most popular places to stay in Yanghshuo are on or around Xi Jie (West Street). It can at times be noisy and a number of smaller guesthouses suffer from mildew due to the damp climate, but at least you can wake up and find good coffee and delicious banana pancakes just around the corner or if you prefer, a breakfast of local rice noodles with tea.
Budget dorm beds can be found at Yangshuo International Youth Hostel, Bamboo House, Riverside Retreat, Hotel California and Lisa's Café, among others, for around 20 RMB or a single or double with en suite bathroom for 70 to 120 RMB. Keep in mind that holiday and peak periods see inflation.
Midmarket options include the Magnolia, Hotel Explorer and Morning Sun Hotel. still are the New Century Hotel or Paradesa Yangshuo Resort Hotel. A number of newer Chinese five-stars and posher resorts are being built as well.
Finally, if you're looking to enjoy the splendor of the Yangshuo's countryside, get out of town and try the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat, perched right on the banks of the Yulong River or the Yangshou Village Inn with its excellent views of Moon Hill and rooftop Italian restaurant Luna's cool breezes, panoramic vistas and Italian fare that's as authentic as any you're likely to find anywhere in
Being a tourist favorite, Yangshuo has food from all over. However, the region's diverse mix of cultures has resulted in some interesting dishes worth trying. One dish advertised on signs all around town is beer fish — grass carp fried whole then stewed in company with beer, chili, garlic and vegetables. Other favorites include grouper hot pot and stuffed river snail. Those with food allergies be warned: peanut oil is the most common oil used for frying in Yangshuo, so be sure to ask ahead of time.
For many Western travelers in Yangshuo, the town is an oasis of banana pancakes, oven-fired pizzas and fat burritos. Yangshuo has a wide variety of cuisine available to tempt your palate. One of the nicest things to do in the evenings is to sit out with a view of the karsts and drink a beer at one of the cafes.
Most of the cafes are on West Street (Xi Jie) and Xian Qian Jie. You can either go up market or go really cheap at the numerous noodle stands around town. Some traveler favorites are Café China, which serves up delectable desserts; Le Votre if you like French food; MC Blues for a bit of fusion; Rosewood Café, for hearty Western lunches; or Dynasty of Dumpling for their Beijing Duck. Another good option is to go to the night market and munch to your heart's content on local street food using the point and grunt purchase technique.
Gettin Around
Yangshuo is a small enough town that you can reach most places on foot or by bike.
Bike
Bikes are a popular method of transportation in Yangshuo. Many hotels and shops in town rent bikes with a 200 RMB deposit and a photocopy of your passport. Bikes usually cost between 10-20 RMB to rent each day.
To and from Yangshuo
Air
The nearest airport is Guilin's Liangjiang International Airport, which has dozens of daily flights both international and domestic. Flights to and from Hong Kong, Japan, Korea, Macau and Thailand arrive in and depart from Guilin on a weekly basis. There are several flights to and from Beijing, Chengdu, Kunming, Shanghai, Xi'an and many other Chinese cities daily. The airport is about 30 km (18 miles) from Guilin's city center, about 40 minutes away by taxi. There is also an airport shuttle available from Guilin's center which takes about one hour and costs 20 RMB.
Bus
The bus station is on Pantao Lu. Buses to Guilin leave every 15 minutes and cost 10 RMB. The trip takes 1.5 hours. There are also express buses to Shenzhen (240 RMB, 9 hours), Wuzhou (90 RMB, 6 hrs), and Guangzhou (165 RMB, 7.5 hrs). There are also sleeper buses available, but these are avoided at all costs as they are smoky, old and very slow.
Train
The nearest train station is in Guilin.
Boat
A trip to Yangshuo would not be complete without a boat ride on the Li River. Boats leave from the dock south of the Li Jiang Bridge in Guilin and cost bewteen 500 RMB per person (for foreigners) or 180 RMB (if you're Chinese). A boat trip between Yangshuo and Guilin usually takes between 5 and 6 hours. The scenery makes this a very worthwhile option. You can also find a boat owner and negotiate your own price. If you get a few people together, you can arrange a trip for as cheap as 300 per person.
Yangshuo has a variety of unusual activities to keep you busy if you get a bit of downtime and want to stick around for a while; from cormorant fishing, to martial arts, language classes, rock climbing, live music and even cooking classes.
Bars
Most people tend to linger over drinks in the many restaurants and cafes, but if you are up for a bit more later on, there are a few places with live music. On Xi Jie, try Meiyou's and on Guihua Xiang, check out Bar 98.
Rock Climbing
Yanshuo is one of the best places for outdoor rock climbing in China. The limestone peaks bring out the inner monkey in many a traveler. The area has 50 established climbing routes with an average length of 30 meters. The best time of year to climb is October to February. A number of places in town rent gear.
Cormorant Fishing
Cormorant fishing is something you will have undoubtedly never have seen before. Trained cormorant birds dive for fish, fill their beaks and surface to deposit the contents of their beaks to their owners. This age-old practice continues in central and southern China, where birds are raised to dive, locate fish and bring them to their owners. A ring is slipped around the throat of each bird to prevent it from eating the fish, but every seventh fish caught, it is allowed to eat. The rule is necessary or the birds refuse to work. If you would like to watch the cormorants fish one evening, you can book a trip at a café or your hotel (25 RMB for 1.5 hours).
Courses in the Arts
Learn Shaolin and Wudang kungfu techniques at Budi Zhen Martial Arts School from old Mr Gao and his twin sons (who both speak English). Wu Wei Centre is another place where you can take classes in martial arts, yoga and meditation from teachers who speak English. Or you can take classes in taichi, Chinese medicine or Chinese language at Merry Planet Language Club on Xie Jie.