China's revolutionary mecca, Yan'an is a premier destination for Chinese making the pilgrimage to the endpoint of the legendary communist Long March. Yan'an served as the headquarters of the embattled communist party from 1937-1947. There in caves dug into the yellow loess hills of Shaanxi Province, the communists were able to regroup, strategize and ultimately launch the campaigns that would see them defeat the rival nationalist Kuomintang in the struggle for China's destiny.
Among the 140 revolutionary sites that dot the area are Wangjiaping and Yangjialing, where Mao Zedong once slept, worked and wrote along with comrades Zhou Enlai and Zhu De. For those of you who may not be Chinese Communist Party junkies, Yan'an is still well worth a visit, both for its unique landscape and for the historical treasures that precede the early days of the People's Republic.
Yan'an's location not far from the middle reaches of the Yellow River put it squarely in the cradle of Chinese civilization. Visitors will find fascinating historical sites such as the Huangdi Mausoleum and Zhongshan Grottoes, as well as natural attractions such as Hukou Waterfalls (China's second largest), Fenghuang Hill and Treasure Pagoda—just to mention a few Yan'an area attractions, though it must be noted that some regional destinations require a day trip from the city.
Yan'an remains a rather sleepy town despite recent development, with little in the way of nightlife. Nonetheless, visitors plying the streets will find tasty Yan'an snacks like you gao (deep fried cake), and liang fen (bean helly seasoned with vinegar and spices) to nibble on while perusing Yan'an markets for souvenirs and traditional handicrafts, such as ceramics made from Yan'an's signature purple clay, pyrography, wood engravings and root carvings.
History
Once known as Yanzhou, Yan'an was the site of many battles. Coveted by the Tanguts for many years, Yan'an was valiantly defended by the Han statesman, poet and polymath, General Shen Kuo. His brilliant defensive strategies would, however, be for naught when Yan'an was handed over to the Tanguts by Cai Que, a Song Dynasty Chancellor who bargained the city away for a peace treaty. Later, Yan'an fell into Mongol hands, though only after Genghis Khan's death during the siege of 1227.
The city experienced a relatively calm transition between the Mongol Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, and a relatively uneventful entry into the short lived era of the Republic of China. The city's period of relative calm and obscurity would, however, be shattered by one of the 20th century's most remarkable military maneuvers, the legendary Long March. Harried by pursuing Kuomintang forces and severed from bases and supply lines, Mao Zedong led a ragtag army of communist fighters from Jiangxi Province on a 12-month 9,500-kilometer journey through some of China's most forbidding terrain.
After the communist's arrival in 1936, they they proceeded to regroup, retrain and enlist support among the peasantry the auspices of the Yan'an Rectification Movement. During WWII, most inhabitants, including Mao, escaped Japanese bombs by living in yaodongs, cave-like dugouts in the sides of nearby mountains. By 1945, the Japanese were defeated, and the communists carried the fight to the Kuomintang, ultimately defeating them in 1949.
Most recently, Yan'an and the surrounding area have been the focus of serious environmental projects undertaken to reverse years of desertification. The soils of the loess plateau are considered some of the world's most erodible. This, coupled with a history of deforestation, overgrazing and pressures from population increases have necessitated the Loess Plateau Watershed Rehabilitation Project. Efforts at reforestation and agricultural reform have seen modest success with green returning to portions of the plateau and reductions in the amount of silt going into the Yellow River.
Climate
Yan'an is subject to a temperate continental monsoon climate. Cooler than the southern provinces, visitors will find Yan'an's climate to be quite hospitable year round, though summer is the best time to visit Yan'an. Temperatures average -6.7°C (20°F) in January; in July average temperatures are 22.9°C (73°F), but can get as hot as 35°C (95°F).
The best food experience in town can probably be had at the Yasheng Dajiudian, a hotel crowned with a revolving restaurant close to the main strip on Erdao Jie Zhongduan. Of course, wandering around town to take in the myriad snack foods is also an enjoyable experience. You might want to try you gao (deep fried cake), and liang fen (bean jelly seasoned with vinegar and spices) while checking out communist antiques (fake or real) in the markets.
Getting Around
There are about ten bus lines which travel to almost every corner of the city and several to the suburbs. The base rate for taxis is RMB 5 for the first three kilometers.
Air
The Yan'an Airport lies 20 km north of the downtown. There are only two flights out of Yan'an each day, one to Beijing (80 minutes) and the other to Xi'an (35 minutes). Yan'an Airport Consultation: 0911 2292 310
Train
The Yan'an Railway Station is located in the downtown area. Yan'an has direct trains to both Beijing and Xi'an as well as several other cities within Shaanxi Province. It is about 17 hours to Beijing by express train and about eight to ten hours to Xi'an by ordinary train, five by express.
Bus
Long-distance bus is the most common form of travel to and from Yan'an. The 210 National Highway connects Yan'an with Xi'an and Yulin. There are various routes to different cities in Shaanxi and outside Shaanxi. Prices vary according to the condition of the bus. Buses in Xi'an East Bus Station depart to Yan'an every half hour every day and take four hours to reach Yan'an.
Yan'an's geography is inextricably linked to products which find their way into the city's markets. Weather conditions, specifically the ample sunlight and wide variances in temperature between day and night cause the accumulation of sugar in fruits. Chinese red dates, apples and pears number among the fruit that benefit from these conditions.
Yan'an is also a produces a wide variety of traditional Chinese medicines including almonds, Wu Chia Pee, Chai Hu (Radix Bupleuri), Sheng Di (Radix Rehmanniae) and Sha Ji (Hippophae rhamnoides). Sha Ji juice and Sha Ji oil are both renowned as preventives against cancer.
Yan'an's unique purple clay is said to contain microelements with a variety of salubrious properties. Purple clay ceramics are a highly developed art form here and visitors will find it used in f tea sets, dishware, craftwork and souvenirs in markets around town.
While browsing the markets you'll have the chance to browse the other products of the local craftspeople. Paper-cut art, paintings, wood engravings, embroiderie, calligraphy, root carvings and pyrography number among the treasures you'll find.
For those looking for shopping in a more modern context, there's always the Yan'an Department Store on Daqiao Lu and the Zhongyan International Mansion shopping plaza situated in the Erdao Lu commercial complex.
If you have any helpful information to offer about shopping in Yan'an, we invite you to contribute your insights, comments and experiences.
Chinese New Year marks the zenith of Yan'an's cultural calendar. The nation's leaders have often stopped here during Chinese new year to pay homage to neptogenarian (if not older!) red army veterans and to take part in the traditional yangge dance native to this region.
Though the expanding economy has given citizens the disposable income they need to splurge on entertainment and creature comforts, Yan'an remains somewhat sleepy. There are certainly a wealth of bars and clubs, movie theaters and even an opera hall or two, but compared to other major cities, Yan'an's arts and entertainment scene leaves something to be desired.
If you have any helpful information to offer about arts and entertainment in Yan'an, Chinatravel.net invites you to contribute your insights, comments and experiences.