There are a few choice places where being in the middle of nowhere means, paradoxically, being in the middle of everything. Kashgar (Kashi) is one of them. Some 4,000 kilometers from Beijing, 24 hours overland from Urumqi, and a relatively short, if exceedingly rugged, distance from Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Kazakhstan, this ancient Silk Road oasis town has long put the "central" in "Central Asia." Over the centuries, Kashgar has served as a vital point of contact between far-flung Asian cultures, with traders, missionaries and mercenaries mixing it up and making it happen.
Despite the highways and high-rises that have come with modernization and the influx of Han Chinese from the distant east, Kashgar remains a predominantly Muslim and Turkic city. The cultural prestige of the enormous Id Kah Mosque easily overshadows that of the ...
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