Back when Beijing was still a small-time barbarian-plagued northern outpost, the area around Xi'an (Xī'ān, 西安) was the site of successive dynastic capitals, including the first to unite China, the Qin, whose legendary founder, Qin Shi Huang, ordered the creation and burial of the astonishing Terracotta Army, now one of China's top historical attractions.
Today Xi'an is a modern Chinese city, though the impressive Ming-era Xi'an City Walls, the Tang-era Wild Goose Pagodas and numerous other ancient relics constantly remind one of China's vast history. When you've had your fill of the past, the city offers excellent modern dining, arts & entertainment and shopping. Xi'an hotels make a great base for further exploration of historical Wei River Valley sites like the Terracotta Army, Imperial Tombs, pagodas, temples, museums, and the sacred mountain Hua Shan.
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History
Some of China's earliest inhabitants lived in the Xi'an area over a million years ago, migrating along the Yellow River, which today forms the eastern border of Shaanxi. At least 500,000 years ago, proto-human Lantian Man was living in the vicinity of modern Xi'an; you can see the fossil evidence at the Shaanxi History Museum. The Banpo Museum presents finding from a Stone Age village dating back to 4500 BC.
The Zhou Dynasty was the first to establish its capital in the area, ruling over northern China from Fenghao, just west of modern Xi'an. Among the relics recovered from this seminal period—the time of Confucious and Loazi—are chariots and bronzes. China's longest-lasting dynasty, the Zhou, were followed in 221 BC by the short-lived but powerful Qin, which forged a united empire from a confusion of warring states. The ancient Qin capital, Xianyang, slightly west of Xi'an and the home of the Terracotta Warriors, is where China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, ruled with legendary ruthlessness. He infamously attempted to destroy all remnants of the past by burying scholars alive and burning books; thankfully, copies of classic Confucian and Taoist texts survived his efforts. The Qin did not last long, falling to the Han shortly after Qin Shi Huang's death, but China's first emperor initiated many enduring elements of Chinese society: canals and roads; standardized writing, money and measures; and the Great Wall.
The Han expanded the empire, with Chang'an (today's Xi'an) as their capital. Trade flourished, and the city became the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, which reached all the way to the borders of the Roman Empire. Taoism flourished and, under the Emperor Wudi, Confucian principles were made the foundation of Chinese society. Chang'an was the center of the Chinese world at a time when only Rome rivaled it in power, sophistication and glory. Today's dominant Chinese ethnicity, the Han, take their name from this dynasty.
Han triumph was followed by several centuries of decline, descending into a civil war that saw the capital move from Chang'an to Luoyang in 25 AD. It was not until 582 AD that the Sui Dynasty reunited the empire and restored the old capital. The Sui soon gave way to the Tang, and Chang'an reached new heights of glory. The Tang laid out the city grid that exists to this day and Chang'an's population grew to over one million, making it the world's largest city. Buddhism spread throughout China and the arts thrived. Xi'an still boasts many reminders of Tang times, including Wild Goose Pagoda, built to hold translations of Buddhist texts brought from India. It was also during the Tang that Islam took root in China, as evidenced by Xi'an's Great Mosque.
After the Tang, Chang'an never regained its power and status, as the Song and Yuan Dynasties moved their capitals east. Emperor Hongwu of the Ming Dynasty rebuilt the city, renamed Xi'an, as a gift for his son in the late 12th century, but this did little for the city's overall fortunes. In 1899, Empress Dowager Cixi, de facto ruler of the Qing Dynasty, fled Beijing during the Boxer Rebellion, ruling from China's old imperial capital for two years until the anti-Western revolt ended in 1901. When the Manchu Qing finally fell in 1911, Xi'an Han Chinese massacred Manchu unfortunate enough to find themselves in the old Han and Tang capital.
The passing of empire lapsed into the chaos of the Sino-Japanese War and civil war between the Nationalists under Chiang Kai-shek and the Mao Zedong-led Communists. Xi'an was insulated from the worst fighting, suffering only a few light bombing raids by the Japanese. The city was, however, site of a curious episode known as the Xi'an Incident. In 1936, while staying at Huaqing Pool, Chiang Kai-shek was arrested by his own troops and forced into a short-lived anti-Japanese alliance with the Communists. By 1949, Chiang had fled, the Communists were victorious, and the PRC was founded.
Xi'an became a key city in the effort to development western China, and continues to play the role of economic gateway to China's west. A discovery made in the last years of the Cultural Revolution would lay the ground for Xi'an's ascent to the top tier of China's tourist cities: In 1974, farmers digging in a field discovered the Qin Terracotta Army. Two years later, Mao, who found much to admire in Qin Shi Huang's ability to unite China centuries before, died, and during the 1980s Xi'an was opened to tourism. It hasn't looked back since.
Climate
Xi'an is situated in the Guanzhong Plain, bordered by the Qinling Mountains to the south and the Weihe River to the north. The geographic location helps define the city's four distinct seasons. Summers are usually warm and humid with occasional heavy rains, though the average temperature rarely rises above 85°F (30°C). Winters tend to be dry and windy with average temperatures around 35°F (2°C). Spring (May) and fall (September) have the most pleasant weather.
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For many Chinese tourists, it seems the highlight of a trip to Xi'an is less likely the Terracotta Warriors than a visit to one of the city's numerous snack shops or small ethnic restaurants. If you're new to the breadth and depth of China's various cuisines, expect some pleasant surprises. Xi'an's centuries-old Muslim culture has made great contributions to the local food scene, and excellent Islamic restaurants abound, with an especially large concentration on Damaishi Jie (Dàmàishì Jiē, 大麦市街). It need not be a sit-down experience, however; some of the tastiest dishes are to be found in streetside stalls and small restaurants (you can always snack on a cumin-spiced kabab of halal beef or mutton). If you do want a table in a nicer restaurant, you'll find many of them situated around the Bell Tower and down Dong Dajie (Dōng Dàjiē, 东大街) just off the Bell Tower square.
Mutton and bread soup (yángròu pàomó, 羊肉泡馍) is a favorite throughout Shaanxi, but is especially well loved in Xi'an. Consisting of rich mutton broth served with a stiff and crispy flatbread broken into pieces over it, the result is a rich version of the age-old winning combo of soup and bread. Another must-try local specialty is the Xi'an dumpling, long a festival food and now a commonly served delicacy. Stuffed with mutton, shrimp, and sweet bean paste, a well-made dumpling can be a revelation.
Another delicious variation on a Chinese standard is the guantang baozi (guàntāng bāozi, 灌汤包子), a steamed bun surrounding a juicy center. (Hot! Be careful!). The soupy filling inside is typically either beef, lamb or a three-flavor combo of lamb, prawn and mushroom. A great place to sample the baozi is the Jia Brothers' Restaurant along Damaishi Jie. Look for a large blue arch over the entrance and a wall papered with photographs of Chinese celebrities (a testament to a well-earned reputation). Wash it down with a bowl of babao xifan (bābǎo xīfàn, 八宝稀饭), a bowl of sweet rice porridge flavored with peanuts and hawthorn.
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Located near the geographical center of China, Xi'an is an important transportation hub. The city has an international airport as well as well-developed rail and bus systems.
Getting Around
Taxi:
The best way to get around Xian is with a taxi and a map. The taxis here are much cheaper than the east coast cities (beginning at RMB 6) and the city is easily navigable with a car. The city center at the Xi'an Bell Tower has four streets radiating out, each one named after its direction (i.e. North Street, South Street, West Street and East Street). Be sure to consult your map, because Xian taxi drivers have a reputation for being scam artists.
Bus:
The public bus system works quite well, so if you are taking the bus, prepare for a crowded trip. The buses are cheap and can take you to pretty much anyplace within the city walls and also outside of the walls (including many tourist sites). Be sure to grab a map from one of the Xinhua bookstores (Xīnhuá shūdiàn, 新华书店) or use a translating tool to help you find out the routes you need. From the bus station on the NE side, you can take buses 609, 610 or 611 to the Bell Tower and downtown and you can also take bus 306 to the Terracotta Warriors. There are also countless “wild buses” run privately that are willing to take you anywhere. As long as you make sure of the price before you get into the van, you should be all right. It is very common for a Chinese driver to try and scam you before you get in the van, but once you have agreed on a price, it is actually quite rare that the driver tries to scam you on the price. If anything, they will suggest another deal and you will have to either accept that deal or haggle further.
Bike:
A sensible option if you are staying here for a few days and want to see the sights of the city. Most of the notable sights within the city are bunched closer together, so using a bike is practical in that sense.
To and from Xi'an
Air
Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (Xī'ān Xiányáng Guójì Jīchǎng, 西安咸阳国际机场; XIY) is located 50 km (about 31 mi) northwest of downtown Xi'an near Xianyang. Shuttle buses run between the airport and Xi'an for RMB 25. Taxi rides from downtown Xi'an costs RMB 100-120. The airport operates domestic flights daily to every major Chinese city and international flights arrive from around Asia and Europe. The Airport Shuttle Bus Line connects the airport to the Melody Hotel near the Bell Tower. You can reach many high-end hotels in the city center via this line, incuding the Howard Johnson Ginwa Plaza Hotel, Bell Tower Hotel, Skytel Xi'an and City Hotel. Line 2 connects the airport and railway station. Line 3 connects the airport and Huoju Dasha in Xi'an Hi-tech Zone. Line 4 connects the airport and Guomao Dasha in the south, via the Tangcheng Hotel and the Orient Hotel. Line 5 connects the airport and the Jianguo Hotel in the east, via the Empress Hotel. Line 6 connects the airport and downtown Xianyang. Airport shuttle buses depart the downtown area hourly from 6am to 3pm. Line 1 runs until 6pm.
Train
As China's gateway to the west, Xi'an is a major railway hub. The Xi'an North Railway Station (Xī'ān Běi Zhàn, 西安北站) lies about a 30-minute cab ride from the center in the exact cardinal direction you expect. Buses traveling to the railway station can be found on every main street, and cost RMB 1 or 2. Taxi fares should be less than RMB 10 from the city center. Purchasing train tickets can be tricky for international travelers, as the ticket windows are usually crowded and have few English-speaking staff members. Ask for a ticket-booking service at a hotel, which charges a nominal service fee. Try to buy tickets one week in advance, especially during peak travel seasons.
Bus
Highway transportation from Xi'an extends in all directions. Long-distance buses run between Xi'an and most of China's major cities. The Xi'an long-distance bus line terminal (chángtúqìchē zhàn, 长途汽车站) lies to the southwest of the railway station. You can usually buy bus tickets on the day of travel.
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Popular items in Xi'an's souvenir markets and shops include Tang Dynasty-style tri-colored glazed pottery, replicas of the Terracotta Warriors and Tang-style horses, as well as folk handicrafts like intricate paper cutouts and embroidery. It's important to keep in mind that opening prices are usually way too high and that any purported "antiques" are almost certainly fakes.
Shuyuan Men (Art Street)
(Shūyuàn Mén, 书院门)
Under the city wall behind the Forest of Steles Museum, Shu Yuan Men's vendors crowd the stone pavement and Ming- and Qing-style buildings, selling local handicrafts, purported historical relics, calligraphy, paintings, antiques (of questionable provenance), jewels and folk art.
Xi'an Antique Market
Located near the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, here you'll find antiques (real and fake) ranging from furniture to coins.
Wenbaozhai Tour Shopping Center
(Wénbǎozhāi Lǚyóu Gòuwùzhōngxīn, 文宝斋旅游购物中心)
As common stop on organized tours, some visitors appreciate the concentration in one spot of silk, rugs, woolen blankets, jewels, jade, calligraphy, paintings, replica relics, antiques, clay figures and bronze figurines. Others hate it. Either way, before signing up for a tour, you may want to find out exactly how much of your time is slotted (often without being explicitly stated) for this crowded and noisy tourist trap.
The Peasant Painting Gallery
(Hùxiàn Nóngmín Huà Zhǎnlǎnguǎn, 户县农民画展览馆)
On the eastern outskirts of Xi'an, this Shaanxi folk-art gallery exhibits "peasant paintings" as well as intricate paper cutouts and shadow puppet art. Craftspeople are usually on hand to help interested visitors to create their own pieces (making it a great place to take kids).
The Xi'an City Malls
There are many large shopping centers in the area, peddling the typical mix knockoffs and real stuff, from brand-name clothing and electronics to "antiques" and crafts. Try Century Ginwa Shopping Mall, located between the Bell Tower and Drum Tower. Opposite Ginwa is the Kai Yuan Shopping Mall, one of the biggest and most popular department stores in Xi'an. Others include the Minsheng Department Store and Parkson Shopping Center opposite the Grand Metropark Hotel Xi'an.
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Thanks to the many ancient dynastic relics of the capital, Xi'an has become a huge tourist destination. The entertainment industry has grown accordingly. The large Muslim Hui Chinese population adds a distinct cultural twist to the otherwise Han city, and Xi'an's universities—popular with foreign students as well as Chinese—contribute to an up-to-date and fun nightlife scene. Recap a perfect day visiting the city's excellent sites and museums over a few drinks or catch a performance, whether traditional or contemporary, at one of a growing number of venues.
Bars & Clubs
The nightlife scene in Xi'an is lively and always changing. New bars and clubs open monthly, from posh lounges to no-nonsense dives. Defu Xiang (Défú Xiàng, 德福巷) and Dong Dajie (Dōng Dàjiē, 东大街) are two downtown streets lined with bars, clubs and restaurants. A longtime club in the area is 1+1 Nightclub (Yī Jiā Yī Jùlèbù, 壹加壹俱乐部) where students, locals and visitors dance and down overpriced cocktails.
Performing Arts
Many restaurants and hotels stage performances of traditional dance, music and song geared toward the tourist crowds. The most popular of these takes place at the Tang Dynasty Restaurant (admission includes dinner). If you're looking for something a bit more local and low key, the Shaanxi Grand Opera House (Shǎngē Dàjùyuàn, 陕歌大剧院) at 165 Wenyi Bei Lu (Wényì Běi Lù, 文艺北路) performs weekly and a traditional dinner is served for about half the price of the Tang Dynasty. Xi'an also has a growing underground music scene. Rock club 8 1/2, located off Nan Dajie (Nán Dàjiē, 南大街) among several coffee houses, hosts the largest names in Chinese rock as well as showcasing local bands and musicians.
Museums & Galleries
Xi'an has one of the country's greatest collections of history on display in beautiful buildings reflecting China's ancient architecture. The most impressive museum in Xi'an is the Shaanxi History Museum. There are more than 400,000 items on display in a well organized, traditional Tang Dynasty-style building. The Forest of Steles Museum, an old Confucian Temple, contains the country's largest collection of engraved stone steles.
Festivals & Events
One of the most significant festivals, Tomb Sweeping Day, is celebrated in April, with locals gathering at the Huangdi Mausoleum to honor their ancestors. The Xi'an City Wall International Invitation Marathon brings in athletes from all around the world. If you're unable to time your trip around a festival, the Great Mosque's several daily prayer services (held in Chinese) are worth witnessing (quietly and respectfully), and it seems as if there's always something to celebrate in the Muslim Quarter, which is noisy and bustling well into the night.
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