For all the wonder of Tibet and its Buddhist culture (but without the Tibet travel permit headaches), Xiahe (Xiàhé, 夏河) in western Gansu is a great place to head. A sleepy town set in a beautiful mountain valley six hours from Lanzhou, Xiahe is nestled in mountains and surrounded by rugged landscape of grasslands and lakes.
Dominating the town is the stunning Labrang Monastery, the largest Tibetan lamasary outside of Lhasa. Everywhere you look there are fuschia-robed monks on their way to prayer or pilgrims walking the 3 km (2 mi) long kora that encircles the monastery.
Xiahe's population is made up largely of Tibetans and Han Chinese with about 10% Hui also thrown into the equaltion, representing the three main ethnic groups found in Gansu.
Gansu guide | Xiahe attractions | Xiahe flights (Lanzhou) | Lanzhou hotels
Xiahe on the China Travel Blog
History
Xiahe, so named for its position along the Daxia River (Dàxià Hé, 大夏河), sits on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau in the Amdo region, on the outskirts of what was the Tibetan Empire. Once dominated by the pre-Buddhist Tibetan Bön religion, it would eventually become an important center for Tibetan Buddhism, both for Tibetans and Mongolians. The town’s location near the Hexi Corridor, part of the ancient Silk Road, put the Tibetans in Xiahe in a tug-of-war of influence between Mongolians, Hui Muslims and the Han Chinese Empire, although the cultural influence of Tibet remained the dominate one, most notably in the Labrang Monastery and the Jamyang Shaypa, the third most important figure in Tibetan Gelug ("Yellow Hat") Buddhism.
In 1653, while on his way through the region on a diplomatic mission with the Chinese, the Fifth Dalai Lama met five-year-old Xiahe local Ngawang Tsöndrü. Twenty two years later, the Fifth Dalai Lama ordained the young man Jamyang Shaypa in Lhasa, and the young monk became known for his intense and extensive study of Buddhism.
In a meeting with a Mongolian prince, the young monk was offered the opportunity to start a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Xiahe. Initially turning the prince down, the monk took up the offer in 1709 and started the Labrang Monastery after political turmoil stirred up the Tibetan capital. After his death, those believed to be the reincarnation of the monk were found to take on the mantle of the Jamyang Shaypa, much like that of the Dalai Lama and Panchen Lama.
At the time of the monastery’s founding, local Mongolian princes held political influence. The local Mongolian part of the population looked to the Labrang Monastery, endorsed by the Mongolian princes, for civil and religious authority and had largely adopted the Tibetan culture, language and religion by the time of the monastery’s foundation.
With the death of the Fourth Jamyang Shapya, the Hui Muslim Ninghai Army under Qi Ma occupied Xiahe. The monastery continued to function and the Ninghai Army even prepared a grand welcome, along with other dignitaries including representatives from the Republic of China, for the arrival of the young Fifth Jamyang Shapya.
The Jamyang Shaypa’s older brother, Apa Alo, later organized local Tibetan militias and others in attacks on the powerful Ninghai Army. Explorer Joseph Rock witnessed the aftermath to one fight, the 1929 Battle of Xiahe, when the Ninghai Army used the heads of Tibetans killed as decorations. The still young Fifth Jamyang Shaypa went into exile until a peace agreement was reached and the Ninghai Army left Xiahe. With the Ninghai Army gone, the two brothers held power over Xiahe and the surrounding area.
After the conclusion of the Chinese Civil War and the establishment of the People’s Republic of China, Apa Alo was removed from Xiahe and sent to Lanzhou for “socialist education.” His brother had died from smallpox just two years earlier. Relations between the Communist government officials and the local population were less than peaceful. The town and monastery suffered greatly during the Cultural Revolution, with the latter still not having returned to its former size due to restrictions.
While the violence of Xiahe’s past has not returned, a new struggle has emerged as the town built around the monastery and the monastery itself strain to maintain an identity in a changing world as waves of Chinese development flow westward. This struggle has also not been without effects, Xiahe was closed to outside visitors in late 2008 and early 2009 in connection with rioting in Tibet.
Climate
Xiahe has a temperate, semi-arid climate and stays relatively cool most of the year due to its position on the Tibetan Plateau 3,000 m (9,843 ft) above sea level. The area experiences a mild amount of precipitation, peaking in the summer months. Late summer and autumn are good times to visit when the weather hasn't cooled off too much and precipitation is lower.
Gansu guide | Xiahe attractions
Xiahe flights (Lanzhou) | Lanzhou hotels
Xiahe on the China Travel Blog
As the predominately Han Chinese eastern side of town grows, the number of standard Chinese-style hotels grow with it. There's a bit more character on the predominately Tibetan western side of town in the Tibetan-owned hotels and guesthouses.
The budget Tibetan-style Tara Guesthouse (Cáiràng Zhuómǎ Lǚshè, 才让卓玛旅舍), (86 94) 1712 1274, is a favorite cash saver with dorm beds as cheap as RMB 10. Guests can scope out the local scenery from the rooftop terrace. Another budget option, the Red Rock International Hostel (Hóngshí Shí Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè, 红石国际青年旅舍), (86 94) 17123698, labranghongshi@yahoo.cn, is part of the Youth Hostels Association of China and sits beside the Daxia River away from the main road but not far from the monastery. Dorms and rooms are both available as is Wi-Fi in the lobby.
For those willing to part with a little more cash in exchange for more space, the Labrang Baoma Hotel offers larger rooms in addition to having dorm beds. The same goes for the Overseas Tibetan Hotel, also offering more expensive private or double rooms in additon to dorm beds.
While being a bit outside of town and having somewhat shabby rooms, the Labrang Hotel (Lābǔlèng Bīnguǎn, 拉卜楞宾馆), (86 94) 1712 1849, has the historical prestige of occupying the former summer palace of the Jamyang Shaypa.
Gansu guide | Xiahe attractions
Xiahe flights (Lanzhou) | Lanzhou hotels
Xiahe on the China Travel Blog