For several years there was talk of Yunnan's famous Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hǔtiào Xiá, 虎跳峡) facing the same fate as the still magnificent (but less so than before) Three Gorges after the water levels rose following the completion of the Three Gorges Dam. Plans were afoot to dam the Jinsha River (Jīnshā Jiāng, 金沙江; as the Yangtze River is known through this stretch), whose rushing waters have carved out this 17 km (11 mi) long wonder over millenia until the project was terminated in 2007.
Despite its proximity to tourist-favorite Lijiang, the high trail winding up onto the steep sides of the Haba Xue Shan (Hābāxuě Shān, 哈巴雪山) range is much less welcoming to tourist groups than Lijiang Old Town's stone streets. There were once two trails through the middle part of the gorge, but the low trail has since been paved and is the road that takes tourists less inclined to hike into the gorge to take pictures of the three Tiger Leaping Stones (Hǔtiào Shí, 虎跳石) or to spend the night at a guesthouse. To hike the high trail takes least two days at a moderate to steady pace to complete. Many hikers linger in the gorge, taking advantage of the charming accommodations available in the village of Walnut Garden (Hétao Yuán, 核桃园) situated between Daju (Dàjù, 大具) southeast of the river and Qiaotou (Qiáotóu, 桥头) to the northwest. There are a handful of other small towns as well which all make for good resting points, with a number of small guesthouses scattered between them. See the Hotels tab for more details.
Buses and vans heading to the hiking trails on through the gorge will be stopped to pay the RMB 50 per person fee. Students under the age of 24 can get half price tickets.
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History
Located at the junction of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau and Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, the Jinsha River split the Haba Xue Shan range off from the young (geologically speaking) Yulong Xue Shan range. Divided into three segments with an aggregate fall of 210 m (690 ft) and places where the canyon walls rise some 3,000 m (9,850 ft) above the rapids. According to legend, a hunter pursued a tiger through the gorge, but the tiger lept across the river, giving the gorge its name.
Climate
May and the start of June are the best times to visit as flowers are in bloom and greenery is at its height. June to September are the rainy season, making the trek potentially slippery and dangerous with landslides and washouts. The weather is mild year-round, so visits are possible anytime of year. Winter is the off-season and it is possible to share the trail with only a dozen or so other visitors during the cooler months.
Yunnan guide | Tiger Leaping Gorge attractions | Lijiang flights
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There are places to stay at the beginning and end of the trek and dotted all the way along, so you can take your time. Most places charge 10-15 RMB a night for a bed. You are never more than a couple kilometers from a guesthouse. In Daju, the Snowflake Hotel (Xuěhuā Kèzhàn Guesthouse, 雪花客栈) is probably the best place in town, with good food, a courtyard and bus pick-up service to Lijiang. Tiger Leaping Gorge Hotel (Hǔtiàoxiá Jiǔdiàn, 虎跳峡酒店) is the roughly same price and a decent second choice. In Qiaotou, the trail into the gorge starts near Jane's Guesthouse [Xiágǔ Xíng Kèzhàn, 峡谷行客栈; (86 887) 880 6570]. Jane and her staff are friendly and will happily tell you everything you need to know about the trek. Internet access is also available.
Taoyuan Jiudian is a clean, slightly sterile, new hotel where you can get a room for 50-80 RMB. About 8 km (5 mi) into the trek from Qiaotou, you'll come across the popular Naxi Family Guesthouse [Nàxī Kèzhàn, 纳西客栈; (86 887) 880- 6928]. Nearby, the Five Fingers Mountain Guesthouse [Wǔzhǐ Kèzhàn, 五指客栈; (86) 139 8877 6286] also has hot showers, good grub and, if you're lucky, a room with a nice view. For travelers making the hike east along the high trail in two days, the Tea Horse Guesthouse [Chámǎ Kèzhàn, 茶马客栈; (86 887) 139 8871 7292] and Halfway Guesthouse [Zhōngtú Kèzhàn, 中途客栈; (86 887) 139 8870 0522] an hour or two farther down the trail are good places to stop after the first day. Both offer hot showers and good meals, though mountain views from the latter are spectacular whether you're eating in the guesthouses covered or outdoor dining area or making use of the restrooms which have windows taking in the mountain peaks across the gorge. However, the Tea Horse has a foot massage room, which can be a relief after a tough day of hiking. A convenient spot to spend the first night from Daju going west is Tina's Guest House [Zhōngxiá Lǚdiàn, 中峡旅店; (86 887) 820 2258]. Going the other direction, Tina's marks the end of the high trail where vans can be hired to head back to Lijiang.
A forty-minute walk east from Tina's will take you to the village of Walnut Garden. Located past the end of the high trail, but just past the halfway point between Qiaotou and Daju, this is an old institution on the trail. You can get a regular bus back to Lijiang from Walnut Garden if you don't fancy hiking the whole gorge. Nearby Sean's Spring Guesthouse is a lively place to meet other hikers and enjoying a drink in the evenings. They also offer mountain bike hire and camping trips.
Yunnan guide | Tiger Leaping Gorge attractions | Lijiang flights
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Tiger Leaping Gorge on the China Travel Blog
Keep in mind that for the trek you should bring your own snacks, some food and water. There are, however, a selection of restaurants along the way. Sean's Guesthouse has English-speaking staff, good food and scenic views off the front porch. Chateau de Woody also has hearty fare. Naxi Family Guesthouse gets consistent reviews from travelers for tasty food. Margo's coffee house has pretty bad food, but is useful to get information.
Locals set up temporary stalls along the trails as well, selling bottled drinks, nuts and other snacks and bags of weed. Expect to see a few per day along the trail, but stock up drinks and snacks if you do see one as it may be some time before reaching the next seller.
Yunnan guide | Tiger Leaping Gorge attractions | Lijiang flights
Lijiang hotels | Lijiang tours & activities
Tiger Leaping Gorge on the China Travel Blog