Like the tiger and like another rather famous gorge or three in China, Yunnan's famed Tiger Leaping Gorge's days appear to be numbered—at least if you want to see it in something close to its natural state. Plans are afoot to dam the Jinsha River (as the Yangzi is known through this stretch), whose rushing waters have carved out this 17-kilometer long wonder over millenia. So, if you're set on seeing the world's deepest canyon before it's harmoniously developed into a tourist-friendly hydroelectric reservoir project, make like the legendary tiger and leap at the chance. (We should note that there is a lot of resistance to the dam project, for obvious reasons, and that its completion is not yet absolutely certain).
Located at the junction of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau and Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, the gorge is tucked neatly between the Yulong Snow Mountains and Haba Snow Mountains. Divided into three segments with an aggregate fall of 210 meters and places where the canyon walls rise some 3,000 meters above the rapids, the gorge is so narrow at points that it's not hard to imagine the namesake tiger making its leap.
All of this extreme scenery makes for some splendid hiking. There are two trails, one high and one low; both take at least two days at a steady pace to complete. Many hikers linger in the gorge, taking advantage of the charming accommodations available in the village of Hutao Yuan (Walnut Garden) situated roughly halfway between Daju and Qiaotou, the two towns located on either end of the primary stretch of gorge. There are a handful of other small towns as well: Bendiwan, Nuoyu,Yacha, Dabai and Yongsheng all make for good resting points, with a number of small guesthouses scattered between them.
If you're lacking the time or energy for the hike (which can be quite strenuous, so be prepared if you do tackle the gorge by foot), roads have been forced into the rugged gorge in recent years, making it possible for buses to deliver gaggles of tourists to Hutao Yuan and major scenic overlooks. The high trail is the way to go if you'd prefer to avoid the masses; the low trail is suffering (or enjoying, depending on your outlook) the effects of tacky touristic development of the kind familiar to any who have visited popular sites in China with a longer history of easy access.
History
Tiger Leaping Gorge's history is a lesson in geology. The mountains thrust up as the river cut down and, over millions of years, one of the world's deepest gorges was created.
Climate
May and the start of June are the best times to visit as flowers are in bloom and greenery is at its height. June to September are the rainy season, making the trek potentially slippery and dangerous with landslides and washouts. The weather is mild year-round, so visits are possible anytime of year. Winter is the off-season and it is possible to share the trail with only a dozen or so other visitors during the cooler months. For the latest weather conditions check out: Tiger Leaping Gorge Information.
There are places to stay at the beginning and end of the trek and dotted all the way along, so you can take your time. Most places charge 10-15 RMB a night for a bed. You are never more than a couple kilometers from a guesthouse. In Daju, the Snowflake Hotel is probably the best place in town, with good food, a courtyard and bus pick-up service to Lijiang. Tiger Leaping Gorge Hotel is the roughly same price and a decent second choice. In Qiaotou, the best choice is Jane's Guesthouse. Jane and her staff are friendly and will happily tell you everything you need to know about the trek. Internet access is also available.
Taoyuan Jiudian is a clean, slightly sterile, new hotel where you can get a room for 50-80 RMB. Eight kilometers into the trek from Qiaotou, you'll come across the popular Naxi Family Guesthouse. A little further on is the Halfway Lodge, offering hot showers and highly edible food. Five Fingers Guesthouse is close to the Naxi Family Guesthouse and also has hot showers, good grub and, if you're lucky, a room with a nice view. A convenient spot to spend your first night from Daju, Tina's Guest House is one and a half hours from Bendiwan.
A forty-minute walk from Tina's will take you to Walnut Garden. Located just past the halfway point on the trail this is an old institution on the trail. You can get a regular bus back to Lijiang from Walnut Garden if you don't fancy hiking the whole gorge. Sean's Spring Guesthouse is a lively place to meet other hikers and enjoying a drink in the evenings. They also offer mountain bike hire and camping trips.
Keep in mind that for the trek you should bring your own snacks, some food and water. There are, however, a selection of restaurants along the way. Sean's Guesthouse has English-speaking staff, good food and scenic views off the front porch. Chateau de Woody also has hearty fare. Naxi Family Guesthouse gets consistent reviews from travelers for tasty food. Margo's coffee house has pretty bad food, but is useful to get information.
The gorge is about 90 km northwest of Lijiang. Buses run from Lijiang to Qiatou from the Lijiang long-distance station daily; Qiatou is usually designated as a stop on the Lijiang-Zhongdian line (RMB 15). Buses run to Daju from Lijiang (RMB 25) daily. A road from Qiatou to Hutao Yuan (Walnut Grove) has newly opened; minibuses and tourbuses can get you there if you're too lazy to hike (note that hiking in can make it possible to avoid the RMB 50 entry fee if you're feeling cheeky or cheap).