Imagine drifting downstream past dramatic cliffs, mist-shrouded peaks and thundering waterfalls—the kinds of scenes that have inspired Chinese poets and painters for millennia. Now picture much of that very scenery slowly disappearing beneath the waters of a vast artificial lake. You can stop imagining now. It's a reality: Welcome to the Three Gorges circa 2007. The Three Gorges Dam has been holding the Yangzi back since 2003, and with the official completion of the dam set for 2009, time is running out on the gorges of old. That said, the mountains remain and the peaks still soar—if somewhat less majestically—above the Yangzi's surface.
The tour operators remain, too, and despite the dam a journey downriver promises breathtaking scenery and fascinating insight into contemporary China. The third longest river in the world, the mighty Yangzi (Chang Jiang) stretches some 6,400 kilometers (2,700 miles), running from the snowy peaks of far-western Qinghai before emptying into the Yellow Sea near Shanghai. Damming the powerful waterway remains a controversial but undeniably impressive feat, and the dam—the world's largest—is destined to be a major tourist attraction. The controversy is not over, however, even as the waters rise. It remains to be seen how the consequences of such massive intervention in the natural world play out.
The government justified the project by claiming the dam would help control the Yangzi's devastating floods, generate electricity and enhance navigability for shipping. Environmental critics observe that the Yangzi is already badly polluted and that flooding banks saturated with industrial waste will further poison the region's water. They add that the reservoir could silt up and what's left of the Yangzi's wildlife may suffer to the point of extinction. Archeologists and historians mourn the loss of access to thousands of sites containing valuable traces of China's long history. Dam proponents counter that the dam's huge output of emissions-free electricity mitigates environmental degradation caused by burning fossil fuels and that further economic development trumps historical and environmental preservation. Whatever the case, you can catch it all in transition.
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History
In 1985, the fossil remains of what became known as Wushan Man were unearthed near the Three Gorges. The oldest human fossils found in China, Wushan Man is evidence that early humans came to the region as many as two million years ago, prompting speculation that the Yangzi River Valley and Three Gorges region are at the origins of Chinese culture.
The Ba people are among the area's most interesting historic residents. The Ba lived along the river banks from around the 16th century to the 3rd century B.C., establishing capitals in Chongqing and Chengdu. Worshippers of the white tiger, the Ba left behind impressive bronzes statues which can be seen today in the Chongqing Museum. Archeologists have also found Ba coffins within the high cliffs of Bellows Gorge, providing important clues to the Ba way of life.
For many centuries, the Three Gorges have stood watch over traders, migrating communities, warriors and religious missionaries traveling the Yangzi's waters. Artifacts dating from the Chu Kingdom (770-221 B.C.) and the Qin (221-206 B.C.)—China's first dynasty—have been unearthed along the Three Gorges. The river bore witness to the treacherous Three Kingdoms period (220-265 A.D.) and a number of epic battles, including the famous Battle of the Red Cliffs, which features in one of China's greatest novels, The Romance of the Three Kingdoms.
Sun Yat-sen first advocated for such a dam in 1919. Later, the cause found support among the founders of the PRC, including Mao Zedong. The gigantic project lacked the necessary funding and technology, however. During the 1992 National People's Congress, the project was finally approved. Construction began in 1994 and the dam will be fully operational by 2009.
The resulting reservoir, some 175 meters (574 ft) higher than the original river, displaces over one million people as well as covering thousands of archaeological and cultural sites. Before construction began, however, the Chinese government commissioned over 300 archaeologists and historians to coordinate the protection of the area's relics. The group reported the impending destruction of over 1,200 archaeological sites (both above and below ground), representing artifacts from over 2 million years of history. Most sites were documented and photographed and a percentage of these sites were then excavated and preserved within more than a dozen new museums dedicated to Three Gorges history.
Climate
The banks of the Yangzi River enjoy a milder temperature than the surrounding areas. Winters are short and cold with lows reaching - 5 º C (23 º F). Summers are hot with humidity hovering around 80 percent. River winds refresh travelers on hot days and rain is infrequent through summer. March to April and September to October are the best times for a trip down the river.
The Three Gorges area is known for is salty, spicy Sanxia cuisine. Special dishes includes the Sanyou Spirit Chicken (sanyou shenxianji), Xiakou Pearl Soup (xiakou mingzhu tang) and sweet radish dumplings with flaky crust (luobo jiaozi). Sanxia oranges, wine and tea are also regularly excellent. Dining while on the river depends on your means of transportation. Luxury cruise ships generally have good-to-excellent onboard restaurants and cater to tourists; the cheaper local ferries generally provide snacks and basic meals (you probably have to buy meal tickets ahead of time from the ferry mid-deck office), with stops along the way at towns and villages where you can pick up food. If you travel cheap, it's a good idea to pack extra water and food for the trip.
On the River
Travelers can choose from several cruise lines and ticket classes. First-class cruise ship cabins generally include two beds, a TV, air conditioning and a private bathroom, while second-class rooms hold 4-6 to a room and offer fewer amenities. On the cruise ships, tourists relax on the upper decks to view the scenery, eat freshly made meals and enjoy frequent stops on land. All boats provide meals and tour guides. If you're saving money or want to travel like the locals do, there are many ferries and boats that run between Chongqing and Baidicheng. First-class berths are generally spare and functional, with a range of cheaper options extending all the way to a mat on the deck.
To and from the Three Gorges
Air
Chongqing: Chongqing's Jiangbei Airport lies 25 km (15 miles) of the city, offering several domestic and international flights, including Beijing, Guangzhou, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Bangkok.
Yichang: The Yichang Sanxia Airport lies 26 km (16 miles) from the city center. Flights service more than 20 domestic destinations including daily flights to Beijing and Chongqing and frequent flights to Guangzhou, Kunming, Shanghai, and Xian. An airport shuttle service (20 RMB) runs from the Three Gorges Hotel on 42 Yanjiang Dadao.
Wuhan: The airport lies 45 minutes away by car from Wuhan. Select number of airlines offer daily flights to Beijing, Shanghai, and Kunming with several weekly flights to other domestic destinations.
Train
Chongqing: Daily trains depart to Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Xian, Zhengzhou, and Dazu town.
Wuhan: Wuhan is well connected by train but east-bound passengers often find air or boat travel to be better options. Wuhan's Hankou and Wuchang train stations service Hong Kong, Xi'an, and Kunming among other cities.
Yichang: The train station lies on the corner of Dongshan Dadao and Yunji Lu. Expanding bus service now includes Beijing, Zhengzhou, Guangzhou and Xian.
Bus
Wuhan: Long-distance bus station is in Hankou. Daily departures include Changsha, Nanchang, Zhengzhou, and Shanghai. The nearby Wuchang bus station also takes passengers to Yichang and Shanghai.
Chongqing: The city's long-distance bus station sits next to the main train station and hosts several buses a day to provincial tourist destinations like Chengdu, Dazu, and Leshan.
Yichang: The long-distance bus station lies two blocks south of the railway station. Air-con 4-hour express buses leave for Wuhan every hour. Daily buses also depart for Muyuping, a nearby tourist destination.
Boat
Chongqing: Several boats a day leave Chongqing, headed for Yicheng or Wanzhou. Both fast hydrofoils or slower ferries are available.
Wuhan: Ferries travel east to Shanghai or west to Chongqing via the Three Gorges.
Yichang: A major port, Yichang is conveniently linked with other sites along the Yangzi River. The ferry terminal ticket office offers tickets eastward to Shanghai and westward to the Three Gorges. Many travelers disembark in Yichang, rather than spend the extra day on the boat to Wuhan. Buses 3 and 4 shuttle between the railway station and the ferry terminal.
During the cruise, the boat may dock in the villages and towns near the Three Gorges. You can explore the shops and stalls during these stopovers. Elegant Xiling painted pottery, a local ceramic art, is a popular purchase. Others are Three Gorges Stone, featuring natural patterns in the rock, and "Four Studying Treasures"—a set of traditional Chinese stationary including writing brush, ink stick, ink slab and paper.