Although Shigatse (Xigaze) is Tibet's second largest city with a population of over 80,000, it remains relatively unexplored by tourists. Most visitors know it only as a stopover en route to Everest Base Camp, where overnighters often spend any extra time they might have zipping through Tashihunpo Monastery before moving on to Everest. This is too bad, because Shigatse is full of traditional Tibetan charm and culture. The busy city market is surprisingly full of fruits and vegetables, meats and grains as well as fine local handicrafts and artwork. True, the government has overseen the transformation of much of Shigatse into generic high-rise blocks, but the city's Tibetan inhabitants still tenaciously hang on to traditional ways. If you're coming from Lhasa, Shigatse is even higher at 3,900 meters (15,600 feet) so drink lots of water and pace yourself to avoid altitude sickness and shortness of breath.

History

Throughout Tibet's history, Shigatse, formerly known as Samdruptse, has rivaled Lhasa as a center of political and spiritual power. The 600-year old city has historically been home to the Panchen Lama, the second most important reincarnate lineage in Tibetan Buddhism after the Dalai Lama. Prior to that, it was the seat of the kings of U-Tsang, the heart of Tibetan culture. The Panchen Lama's traditional residence, Tashilhunpo Monastery, dates back to 1447 and the reign of the first Dalai Lama.

The former embodiment of Tibetan military power, the fort known as Shigatse Dzong, is, sadly, no more, having been destroyed in 1959 in the process of the PRC's "liberation" of Tibet. Today, Shigatse has many of the qualities of a contemporary Chinese city, with plenty of high-rise buildings, karaoke bars and restaurants run by recent migrants from the east. The arrival of the Lhasa-Shigatse leg of the Qinghai-Tibet railroad, scheduled for completion by 2010, will no doubt accelerate the present trend of modernization and bring more tourism to this once-remote city.

Climate

As in the rest of Tibet, the weather in Shigatse is cold, snowy and windy throughout much of the year. The summer months can bring temperatures as warm as the high 20s º C (80s º F) but even in August it cools down to around 12 º C (mid-50 s º F) at night. Summer months can also bring a lot of rain. The best time to visit Shigatse is in the early fall when temperatures are still warm or late spring before the heavy rains roll in. Layered clothing, sunscreen and lots of water are keys to coping with the climate and altitude year round.

Though Shigatse is Tibet's second largest city, accommodations are limited due to the lack of tourism in the area. There are no five-star hotels (yet) but clean, spacious rooms with private bathrooms are available. The Shigatse Hotel offers Tibetan-style rooms at less than 350 RMB per night (this price might require a bit of negotiating). The city has a variety of budget accommodations with both dorm-style and with private rooms. The Tenzin Hotel, renovated in 2002, is a popular spot, offering both hostel-style accommodation and private rooms.

Eating well in Shigatse is quite affordable. The few restaurants with English menus are scattered around the Tenzin Hotel and serve Chinese food of various stripes as well as Tibetan food. The Gangjinalinka Tibetan Restaurant serves local food but it's popularity can be a problem—it's a popular tour group spot, making for crowds and slightly higher prices than you'll find at lower-profile restaurants. If you're in search of something other than Chinese or Tibetan food try Tashi Restaurant which serves pizzas and Nepali stir-fry as well as delicious breakfasts; it's a little pricey but still affordable.

Getting Around

The easiest and most popular way to get around is to hire a jeep or other cross-county vehicle. Prices vary depending on the car. Unmetered taxis also roam the streets. Standard cross-town fare is 5 RMB, but remember to bargain for longer trips.

To and from Shigatse

Air

Shigatse doesn't have an airport, so most travelers fly to Lhasa and either rent a car or take the bus.

Bus

The second largest city in Tibet, Shigatse acts as the transportation hub for central Tibet and the gateway to the vast western region. Buses link Shigatse to several locations around Tibet. Buses leave Beijiao Bus Station (Tel: 0891 6922 104) in Lhasa, at 8:55 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. for Shigatse (6-7 hours; 51 RMB). The Xijiao Bus Station (Tel: 0891 6824 469) sends buses every 40 minutes from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. each day. Shigatse Bus Station (Tel: 0892 8822 903) operates routes to Chengdu in Sichuan Province as well as other places in Tibet. Chengdu-bound buses depart every other day, while those headed to Lhasa leave daily every hour from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Taxi

Taxis hang out around the bus stops in Shigatse looking for fares to Lhasa. Good bargaining skills will get you in a cab to Lhasa for 70 RMB, which may be worth the extra 20 kuai over taking the bus.

The Tibetan market across the street from the Tenzin Hotel is the best place for souvenirs and local handicrafts; it has one of the territory's best selections of Tibetan boots and costumes. Tibet Gang Gyen Carpet Factory sells handmade rugs and carpets, but they are not cheap after shipping prices are included.

This is a city of religious ceremonies and festivals. As a visitor, you may observe and even participate in some activities, but be sure to maintain proper respect and distance. If you're in Shigatse during major Tibetan holidays, the Tashilhunpo Monastery stages impressive traditional performances of Tibetan opera, dance and song. During Losar, the Tibetan New Year, performances and parades run through town and celebrations last well into the night. At this time, the monastery also unveils special oversized thangkas (devotional scroll paintings)—some of the few that survived the Cultural Revolution. If you're looking for a good place to relax with a beer, hotels and restaurants are your best bet, with the Tenzin Hotel and Gongkar Tibetan Restaurant being particularly popular among travelers (see Food & Restaurant and Accommodations listings for more).