China's economic showpiece never fails to surprise and rarely fails to delight. Walking Shanghai's streets can give you glimpses into a unique and layered past that includes foreign settlements, jazz-age decadence, political intrigue and, more recently, an entrepreneurial spirit that's returning this legendary port to the ranks of the world's great metropolises.
Discover the Art Deco architecture of the Bund and the charm of the former French Concession, take in Pudong's futuristic skyline from a sophisticated Bund restaurant with a cool drink in hand, sample tasty local specialties, dance till dawn, shop till you drop and mingle with the intrepid and forward-thinking Shanghainese. The city's energy is contagious and there's something in Shanghai for everyone.
History
Established as a tiny fishing community in the Warring States Period (453-221 BC), Shanghai slowly grew into a regional trade center, taking advantage of its access to the Yangzi River and nearby canals. The city stepped onto the global stage in 1842 when the British established a settlement just outside the walled Old City after defeating the Qing in the First Opium War. Concessions to the French, American, and Japanese soon followed, and Shanghai's economy began to boom as foreign investment poured in.
As the city grew in importance and wealth during the 1920s and '30s, it gave rise to an often disreputable mix of gangs, corrupt concession cops, fat-cat factory owners, sailors and rich expatriate families. It was during this period that most of the Bund's signature buildings were constructed and when Nanjing Lu, Huaihai Lu and the French Concession took the shapes that they largely retain today.
Political intrigue ran high, as the ruling Nationalist Party (Kuomintang) struggled to maintain control in a city full of Japanese spies, Western agents and Communist organizers. In 1922, the Chinese Communist Party held its first meeting in a French Concession lane house. It continued to organize in the city thereafter, briefly allying itself with the Nationalists against Japan, but the alliance was short lived. The Nationalists, working with Shanghai gangster Du Yuesheng and his Green Gang, massacred Communists and striking workers in 1927, driving opposition underground. Despite such turmoil, Shanghai continued to thrive economically, solidifying its reputation as one of the world's most exciting, prosperous and decadent cities.
That all ended in 1937, when Japan seized the city, taking control of the foreign concessions in 1941 on the same day as the attack on Pearl Harbor. Following the end of World War II in 1945, Nationalist rule returned to Shanghai. It wasn't long, however, before the Communists ousted the Kuomintang in 1949.
During the Mao years, Shanghai's role as a center of global finance and trade was displaced by the need to serve as a source of industrial production and revenue in support of national revolutionary development schemes. Despite the sometimes violent tumult of the Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution (the latter saw many urban Shanghainese subjected to various reeducation and self-criticism programs), Shanghai remained a vital economic center, though the glamor was gone—for a while, at least.
Since the economic reforms initiated in the 1990s under Mao's successor Deng Xiaoping, the city has reappeared on the world stage—in a big way. The government's decision to open and develop Shanghai has helped fuel China's recent breakneck growth and has brought streams of foreigners back—for both business and pleasure—to a city that once again commands global attention.
Climate
Weather-wise, the best times to visit Shanghai are between March and early June and from September to November. Frequent rain interrupts the days from mid-June to early July. July and August bring hot and humid weather, with daily temperatures regularly soaring well above 30 º C (86 º F). The warm days continue through September, sometimes as late as November, as the nights begin to cool. December through to February is damp and chill, with average temperatures lingering around 0 º C (32 º F), though it rarely snows or freezes. Spring and fall see a number of blue-sky days, but air pollution in Shanghai can be a problem. It's not as bad as some other cities in China, but those with sensitive lungs should take appropriate precautions, especially in the summer when the smog is at its worst.
Shanghai has some of the best hotels in China. The city boasts a number of five-star hotels, though tourists should know that Chinese and Western rating systems differ, so what earns five stars in China would often get four in Europe or the US. Budget hotels are plentiful, with a mix of reliable chains and small independents offering competitive rates and solid service. As tourism in China increases, hostels and boutique hotels are improving and increasing in number.
Options in Shanghai range from colonial-era gems like the art deco Peace Hotel or the elegant villas of the park-like Ruijin to hypermodern towers of sophistication like the Jinmao Tower's Grand Hyatt and Pudong Shangri-La. More modest and intimate lodgings can be found in places like the 12-room converted traditional lane dwelling Old House Inn, and backpackers have an increasing number of hostels to choose from, including the Bund-side Captain Hostel. Numerous two, three and four-star Chinese hotels offer excellent value for the money, though some may have problems with staff that speak limited English and with traditionally extra-firm Chinese mattresses, among other cultural differences.
With Shanghai's cheap taxis and expanding metro system (see Transportation), location need not be central to be convenient. Help us improve our site—and help your fellow travelers—by telling us about your experience in our comments section. Enjoy your stay!
Some claim Shanghai ranks among the world's top food cities; others contend that the booming restaurant scene is more flash than substance. Whatever the case, it's a delicious question for which to seek an answer, and the mere fact that such an argument exists is telling. Shanghai residents—Chinese and expat alike—love to talk food as much as they love to eat it. And there's a lot to talk about: the best local street-side Shanghainese xiaolongbao or Xinjiang hand-pulled noodle shop; where to find the tastiest Cantonese dim sum or fieriest Sichuan dishes; the best American burger joint; the most exquisite new fine-dining establishment. The list goes on and on.
So, Shanghai is a great place to eat and the choices are endless. Where to begin? Try starting with the city's own distinct cuisine. Shanghainese food offers sweeter flavors than other well-known regional Chinese cuisines, favoring use of vinegar, ginger, sugar and soy to create brown sauces for braising meats, stir-frying, dunking dumplings and flavoring seafood. Shanghainese cuisine can be quite greasy, with fried dumplings, fried long noodles, vegetables, poultry, pork and seafood, but it can also be delicate and light. Shanghai's proximity to rivers, lakes and the sea fills its markets with fresh shrimp, fish, eel, sea cucumbers and shellfish. Crab plays a starring role in early fall, when the regional river crab (or "hairy crab") is harvested and served across the city. Make sure to try the following local dishes:
Xiaolongbao (steamed pork dumplings, sometimes known as "soup dumplings"). You can find these wonderful dumplings on street corners and in restaurants all over town. They're made with a thin dough wrapped around seasoned minced pork and a kind of gelatin which melts into a delicious juice (or "soup") as the dumplings steam. Be careful—the soup is scalding hot for minutes after steaming. Let your xiaolongbao cool, dip in vinegar, and carefully nibble a hole in it to suck out the soup before finishing it off. It's a good idea to support your xiaolongbao with a spoon as you bring it to your mouth with chopsticks. Line up with the masses for Shanghai's best-known xiaolongbao at Nanxiang Restaurant in Yu Gardens or try your luck at any number of small local eateries.
Locals love river crab (dazhaxie) season. The crabs are harvested around Chongming Island in the Yangzi River and Yangcheng Lake in Jiangsu Province during September and October. Boiled in large pots or cooked in a coating of flour or red sauce, river crabs make a tasty—and messy—meal.
Guotie (potstickers) are another Shanghai favorite. These fried dumplings contain a juicy pork filling, much like xiaolongbao. You can find guotie out on the street—look for vendors tending large, shallow frying pans—or in local restaurants. Greasy inside and out, some claim they're the ultimate hangover food.
Shengjianbao are another soup-filled Shanghai treat. Stuffed like xiaolongbao with lightly spiced pork filling that sweats out a delicious juice during cooking, shengjianbao are fried in a large covered shallow pan (often alongside guotie). Browned to a crisp on the bottom, a thick mini-bun puffs out around the filling, resulting in a wonderful combination of textures. The perfect shengjianbao is crispy, soft, and slightly chewy, the pork inside floating in "soup." Again, be careful not to burn your tongue.
Shanghai is also a great place for food from around China. You can get fiery Hunanese ribs at Dishuidong, Xinjiang lamb kebobs and flat breads at Afanti, filling Northern fare at Dongbeiren, Cantonese dim sum at Crystal Jade, Beijing Duck at Ya Wang, Hotpot at Hotpot King on Huaihai Lu—and much, much more. Take a look at our growing index of the best the city has to offer. In between meals, snack at one of Shanghai's several food streets—try Yunnan Nan Lu, Huanghe Lu or Wujiang Lu.
For a break from Chinese food, the city is also home to excellent Thai, Japanese, French, German, Spanish, American, and Indian restaurants, among other international options. Try reasonably priced Italian at Da Marco, Thai at Baan Thai, Spanish and Vietnamese at Le Garcon Chinoise or all-you-can-eat Teppanyaki at Tairyo. For a special night out, you can find some of the city's best high-end dining (and views) along the Bund—splurge at M on the Bund, Laris, the Whampoa Club or Jean-Georges.
Getting Around
Most visitors to the city arrive at the modern and convenient Pudong International Airport (PVG), with Hongqiao International Airport (SHA) a popular domestic flight hub. The city is also well connected by rail.
A clean and efficient metro system and relatively inexpensive taxis make getting around the city remarkably easy given its size. Buses offer great neighborhood coverage, though signage is entirely in Chinese. If you have the time (and a good map), walking through the leafy lanes is a wonderful way to get a feel for Puxi. Pudong's broad streets and new high-rise complexes are much less pedestrian friendly, but cabs are plentiful. Biking is another great option for Puxi, and a number of hotels can arrange rentals. Finally, the maglev to or from PVG is a must for fans of futuristic travel.
Transportation Card (jiaotong ka)
You can use rechargeable plastic transportation cards for the metro, taxis and buses. A transportation card requires a redeemable 30 RMB deposit and you can add money to the cards at the ticket window in any metro station.
Metro
The metro network has expanded rapidly in time for the World Expo, with 11 lines now open. The system operates from 6:00 a.m. to around 10:30 p.m. (Lines 1 and 2 stay open up to an hour later.) If you don't have a jiaotong ka, purchase a single-use metro card at a service window or an automated machine (instructions and route maps are available in English on the touch screens). Find your fare by indicating destination—rates are typically between three and five RMB (approximately 40 to 60 cents). Swipe the card over a turnstile sensor upon entering; feed it into the slot upon exiting (or just swipe a jiaotong ka). Platform directions and next station announcements are all in English as well as Chinese. Although not a huge problem, pickpockets do work the metro, especially around People's Square.
Taxi
Flag down taxis on the street or call for service: 96822 (Dazhong Taxi), 6431 2788 (Bashi Taxi), 6258 0000 (Qiangsheng Taxi) or 96961 (Jinjiang Taxi). Base rate downtown is 12 RMB ($1.75) for the first three kilometers and 2.4 RMB per additional kilometer (between 11:00 p.m. and 5:00 a.m. the base rate goes up to 16 RMB and the kilometer charge to 3.1 RMB). Shanghai drivers are generally honest, though be sure you get in a metered cab, especially from the airport. When you pay, you should receive a receipt (fapiao) that includes the cab number and company phone number. Most drivers speak no English, so it's always useful to have addresses in Chinese (have someone write out the address in characters or pick up business cards).
To and from Shanghai
Air
Almost all international flights to and from Shanghai operate through Pudong International Airport (PVG) which, along with Hongqiao Airport (SHA), also services domestic destinations.
Pudong airport lies 55 km (about 34 miles) outside the city center (People's Square), roughly a 150 RMB ($20) cab ride. The fastest train in the world, the German-built maglev, whisks passengers from the airport to the Longyang Lu stop on Metro Line 2 (still in Pudong) in under six minutes. You'll need to take an additional subway or cab ride to reach your final destination. The maglev runs from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. and is 50 RMB (about $6.70) one way (less with a valid airticket). Six airport shuttle buses run from Pudong Airport to several points in the city—check signs outside of the terminal for stops—but there are no buses between 11pm and 6am. On the way out, be sure to check which terminal you're flying from.
Hongqiao Airport lies 15 km (9.3 miles) from the city center, and is a 30-50 RMB ($5-7) taxi ride. Minibuses (between two and seven RMB) run every 10-15 minutes to and from various downtown locations, including People's Square and Shanghai Railway Station, from 6:00 a.m. until around 11:00 p.m. Both airports are scheduled for connection to Metro Line 2 during 2010.
Rail
On the new high-speed trains, rail travel is an excellent way to come or go. Cities north and west of the city (as well as Hong Kong) are serviced by the older Shanghai Railway Station (Shanghai Huoche Zhan), in the north of the city (on Metro Lines 1, 3 and 4). The new and rather beautiful South Railway Station (Shanghai Nan Zhan) is for southerly destinations (Metro Lines 1 and 3). Tickets can be bought several days in advance, from the station or the designated ticket offices around town. A taxi to either station from a central location should cost no more than 30 RMB.
Shanghai is a shopper's paradise. Locals flock to Nanjing Dong Lu and Huaihai Zhong Lu for mid-to-high range department stores, retail outlets, and luxury shops. Tourists find souvenirs among the stalls around Yu Gardens, the gift market north of Jing'an Temple, the fakes market in the Science and Technology Museum metro station in Pudong (comprised of former tenants of the infamous Xiangyang Market, shut down in 2007), the international fashion brand shops and high-end boutiques of Xintiandi, and the funkier independent shops and galleries in Taikang Lu. In between those destinations, there's no shortage of things to buy, and aimlessly strolling in the former French Concession one is sure to stumble upon a delightful surprise or two.
Electronics
Shanghai has fallen for technology in a big way. For the best selection of gizmos and gadgets, try Xujiahui's multi-storied malls: the huge Best Buy store is your best bet if you require advice in English before buying. For better bargains, as well as repairs and even exchanges, try Electronic City at the intersection of Xiangyang Lu and Fuxing Lu.
Silk
If your itinerary doesn't include a visit to Suzhou or Hangzhou, get your silk in Shanghai. You can try the stalls of the Silk City on the corner of Maoming Lu and Nanjing Lu or the Fabric Market on Lujiabang Lu. Remember to bargain.
Tailored Clothing
If your trip allows a week or so in the city, take advantage of one of Shanghai's clothing markets or a small, high-quality tailor shop. Offering designs made to order, tailors can create custom suits, dresses, skirts and trousers at more than reasonable prices. You can get a traditional Chinese qipao, a fitted Mao jacket, an exact copy of an old worn-out favorite, or a Vera Wang knockoff—the choice is yours. Great bargains and an astonishing variety of cloth can be found at the South Bund Fabric Market (presently located at 399 Lujiabang Lu south of the Old City, but rumored to be moving in the next year or two). Remember to bargain and plan enough time for follow-up fittings.
Gold, Silver and Jewelry
Large jewelry stores filled with gold, platinum, and silver can be found around Yu Gardens, along Huaihai Zhong Lu and Nanjing Dong Lu and in Xujiahui. Try Taikang Lu for smaller, custom boutiques and studios. Many locals recommend heading to Hong Kong for better deals and more variety.
Jade
Jade, an auspicious stone for the Chinese, comes in an array of colors and can be carved into all kinds of shapes. But be careful—vendors have been known to pass off fakes on unwitting tourists. Jade varies wildly in quality and price, so unless you're a serious collector, limit yourself to a few affordable souvenirs. Find the largest jade vendors in the Yu Gardens Bazaar.
Pearls
Semi-precious cultured pearls are plentiful in Shanghai markets and department stores. Local pearls are cultivated from freshwater mussels and are the best value in town. As always, be aware of fakes:real ones feel gritty when you rub them on your teeth. Pearl City, Hong Qiao New World Pearl Market, Amy's Pearls and Jewelry, and the top floor of the First Asia Jewelry Plaza all offer huge selections, and a number of dealers can be found in Yu Gardens Bazaar. In many stores you can even create your own design and have it made right before your eyes.
Antiques
Though you have to be careful to avoid going home with an overpriced replica, there's huge fun to be had trawling through Shanghai's antique markets, the best of which is on Dongtai Lu, not far from Xintiandi. From bed frames to mounted mirrors, leather travel trunks to miniature kitsch, these pieces of the past make great souvenirs. The antique stores along Jinxiu Lu are more expensive, but no less interesting.
Miscellany
Try one of Shanghai's "Specialist Streets" for a rather unique shopping experience: head to Fuzhou Lu for trophies, Xietu Lu for cameras, or Aomen Lu for kitchenware. The International Eyeglasses Market is also well worth a visit.
Known more for entertainment than the arts, Shanghai is doing its best to live up to its old reputation as the home of China's liveliest nightlife while also upping the ante in the cultural game. On the latter count, it will be a while before Shanghai catches up with Beijing, but when it comes to nightlife the city by the sea is hard to beat.
Bars & Clubs
Today you can find expats and nouveau riche Chinese alike partying like it's 1929, though the soundtrack is less jazz and more beats spun by globetrotting DJs. Nonetheless, jazz is resurgent, drawing on both history and the energy of young players. Rock clubs are increasingly common, with Chinese bands and international acts alike finding increasingly eager audiences.
Check out rock at Yuyintang, Live Bar and MAO Livehouse, and jazz at JZ Club, the Cotton Club or the House of Jazz and Blues. DJs spin all over town and on any given night you can hear retro sounds, hip-hop, dance pop and all kinds of electronica. Hit the dance floor at big clubs like G+ or more high-end hangouts like M1nt, lounge with a cocktail in chic spaces like Bar Rouge and hedonistic hangouts Muse, M2 and Muse at Park97. KTV (karaoke) is big with both locals and less bashful foreigners—any decent KTV joint should have English songs on tap. KTV is everywhere; Partyworld in Puxi and Pu-J's Podium in Pudong are good bets.
If you're after drinks sans loud music, Shanghai has it covered, from posh lounges to no-nonsense dives. Take in the view from the Bund with a cheap draft beer (Captain Bar) or an elegant cocktail (Glamour Bar). Party in People's Square at Barbarossa, enjoy the ambience of the old French Concession at Face Bar, or toast the town on the 87th floor of the Jinmao Tower at Cloud 9.
Performing Arts
Shanghai has done a lot recently to promote the performing arts, building world-class spaces like the Oriental Art Center and Shanghai Grand Theatre. Western performances tend toward the tried-and-true—popular symphonies, operas, ballets and Broadway hits. More interesting are the Chinese performing arts, including acrobatics, Chinese opera, folk music, dance and theater. Many venues project English subtitles with stage performances, though shows without them can be enjoyable for the costumes, dance and gestures alone. Shanghai's acrobats need no translation—witness stunning feats of balance and strength at Shanghai City Center Theatre or Yunfeng Theatre. Shanghai's underground theater scene is growing, too, and though the language barrier may be high, the adventurous can find edgier performances at spaces like Downstream Garage. Shanghai also hosts its own Fringe Festival, drawing innovative theater and dance from around the world.
Museums & Galleries
From the super-optimistic take on the near future on view at the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center to the Shikumen Open House Museum's depiction of vanishing architectural heritage, visitors can get a good sense of Shanghai's ongoing story. Greater China's long history is well represented at the Shanghai Museum by impressive collections of jade, calligraphy, paintings and other artifacts. Smaller museums like the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Arts Center provide fascinating glimpses of times gone by.
In the plastic arts, Shanghai lags behind Beijing, but a slew of quality small museums now complement the large Shanghai Art Museum. The Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art, the Duolun Modern Art Museum and Zendai Museum of Modern Art—all new since 2002—are worth visiting. Add a lively gallery scene and the development of emerging art spaces like Moganshan Lu and the future looks bright, though the scene's over-the-top commercialism does raise questions about quality and sustainability.
Festivals & Events
Shanghai celebrates a number of traditional festivals but it's really made its mark lately in the global arena with some dozen international festivals celebrating fashion, the arts, music and theater. Annual events of note include the Shanghai International Literary Festival, the Shanghai International Film Festival and the Shanghai International Arts Festival. The city also hosts commercial exhibitions and trade shows, while 2010's Shanghai World Expo promises to be the largest world's fair to date. And don't forget traditional Chinese festivals, from spring's Spring Festival (aka Chinese New Year), to summer's Dragon Boat Festival, and the Moon Festival in fall.