Mostly off limits to foreigners, Shennongjia is Hubei's foremost natural attraction. Forests of metasequoias and Chinese tulip trees here play host to a remarkable 1300 species of medicinal plants, not to mention 500 species of wild animals, including rare golden monkeys and giant salamanders. Capricious evolution has also contrived to produce an unusual concentration of "white" species, such as white bears, monkeys, snakes and deer.
The most elusive of Shennongjia's denizens is the Yeren, central China's own Yeti, whose legend is corroborated by the occasional finding of Gigantopithecus-sized footprints and at least 200 sightings.
Of the park's four sections, foreigners are allowed into just one, south of the Yazikou junction (admission RMB 140), but it comprises the UNESCO-listed Shennongjia National Nature Reserve. The area is large and there is plentiful trekking, cycling and camping to be done around the park's caves, waterfalls and picturesque forests.
Xaiolongtan and Dalongtan, with their abundant wildlife, come highly recommended. Shannongding, the highest peak in central China (3105 meters), is your destination of choice for challenging hikes up to celestial views of a mountainous empyrean from the peak.
For foreigners, access to Shannongjia is secured through the small town of Muyu, well-versed in tourism, about 14 kilometers out from Yazikou. Visitors should note that foreign ATM cards will not work anywhere in this village, so make sure to stock up on RMB before you arrive.
History
From the 1960's to the late 1990s, the area was a timber production base from which about 100,000 cubic meters of wood were harvested annually. In the 1970's the government took parts of Badong, Xingshan and Fang counties to make of Shennongjia its own "forestry district," the only one of its kind in China.
The government creating the Shennongjia National Forest Reserve in 1982. Later, UNESCO'S interest in the area's exceptional biodiversity would lead to its inclusion on the World Heritage list of globally significant biospheres. As a result, extractive industries have taken a back seat to forest conservation, allowing endangered species to make significant population gains.
Climate
Shennongjia's steep mountainous terrain means considerables variations in termperature for visitors ascending Shennongding's slopes. In the winter, snow can close roads and temperatures can plunge to as low as -21°C, but summers can get as hot as 38.5°C. The best time to visit is from June to October, but be sure to pack for heat, rain and cold.
The Shuang Lin Hotel (Shuanglin Jiudian; 345 3803; twins RMB 160) has tidy rooms with clean bathrooms and TV's, and prices are often discounted, sometimes all the way down to RMB 50. To reach it, follow the main road towards the top of the village , it's on the right hand side.
If you come find any other good accommodations in the area, be sure to let your fellow travelers know by mentioning it in our travel forum, or in the Shennongjia comments section.
Down the from the hotel and across the road, the Shennongjia Characteristic Restaurant features a terrace and dishes highlighting the area's delicious wild mushrooms. The shanya chaomu er (stir-fried mushrooms with gingers, peppers and chilli) are exceptional, do give them a try.
If you come across any other good eats in the area, be sure to let your fellow travelers know by mentioning it in our travel forum, or in the Shennongjia comments section.
To get into the nature reserve, take a minibus from Muyu to Yazikou (RMB 10). These only depart when full, so there may be a wait involved. Another way to go is to rent a bicycle from Yuanmeng Huwai Yundong Luyou (RMB 50, deposits RMB 1000), just down the road from the restaurant, and to pedal the scenic, though demanding, 14 kilometers.
Wuyu can also be reached by bus from Yichang, there are departures thrice daily at 7am, 7:30am and 2pm (RMB 50, 4.5 hours). Although Wudang Shan is not closed to foreigners, travel north through Shennongjia to get there is not permitted for foreigners.
Shennongjia is all about the great outdoors, you'll find sublime art in the abundant natural textures of Shennongjia's forests. You may even be entertained by some of the forests more sociable denizens, monkeys in the area are said to be good at performing disappearing tricks involving snacks and shiny, pretty things.