Today, Macau is making headlines for overtaking Las Vegas as the world's richest casino city, even as Hong Kong, its better-known fellow Special Administrative Region (SAR) neighbor, frets about losing tourists to Macau's shiny new mega-hotels.
Somewhat lost in the bright lights of the largest casino in the world—the brand-new Venetian Macau—is the other Macau, the one that consists of centuries-old cobblestone streets fronted by Portuguese colonial architecture where one can wander charming markets, people-watch in lush subtropical parks, enjoy a strong coffee in a European café and, perhaps best of all, eat like no place else: dim sum for breakfast, Portuguese caldo verde or bacalhau for lunch and, for dinner, something Macanese—a unique blend of Cantonese, Portuguese, Goan and African flavors—perhaps Galinha à Africana (African chicken) or Macanese chili shrimp.
History
Tiny Macau's significance in the history of modern China is disproportionate to its size. It was the first foothold in the Imperial Qing Dynasty China won by a colonial European power, and by the time Portugal formally handed control of the city to the People's Republic in 1999, Macau had been a Portuguese possession for 442 years, making it the longest-standing European colony in all of East Asia.
The Qing granted Portugal the territory as a trading outpost in 1553, partly out of gratitude for the Portuguese having taken care of some particularly nasty South China Sea pirates. This initiated a trend that would become all too familiar over the next four centuries: a weakened China giving up degrees of sovereignty to Western powers. There are many examples to draw on, from the Opium Wars to the Taiping rebellion to the Boxer Rebellion to the transfer of German concessions to Japan at the close of World War I, just to name a few. As the first of many concessions to Western power, it's only fitting that the tiny Macau Peninsula's 1999 return to Chinese rule marked the end of a period that saw China suffer some of its worst times, only to emerge in the 21st century as a strong and sovereign nation.
Macau's story precedes the colonial era, of course. Prior to the Portuguese, the region had been controlled by Imperial China since the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC), though its remoteness relegated it to relatively obscurity—a place to send exiles, at best. That changed somewhat in 1277, when Song Dynasty notables fleeing the invading Mongols arrived, establishing a strengthened Han Chinese presence in what had been an imperial hinterland. Still, Macau did not become a major port until Portuguese explorers and merchants began to arrive in the mid-1500s, having given the area the name "Macao" based on the Cantonese "A-Ma Gao," meaning Bay of the A-Ma, a goddess whose temple stood nearby.
By 1557, Portugal had won a lease for Macau and began to fortify its settlement. Over the next century, Macau flourished as a trade center connecting China to various points in Portugal's far-flung colonial empire. By 1685, China had granted trading rights to other European powers and the Qing began their precipitous decline. Portugal, however, was no longer in a position to exploit Qing weakness. The British, however, were, and when they wrested Hong Kong from China during the first Opium War (1847), Macau's golden age was drawing to close, leaving a legacy of beautiful colonial architecture and a unique cultural blend that delights to this day.
After a brief period of good business during World War II as the region's sole neutral port, Macau joined Hong Kong in a profitable political limbo when the Communists triumphed in 1949. Beijing was unwilling to force the sovereignty issue, largely (and ironically) due to its recognition of the vital economic links the colonies provided to the outside world. Even when Chinese residents of Macao rioted in 1966 and 1967, demanding union with the PRC, Beijing declined to push the issue, preferring that Portugal retain its stewardship. This arrangement continued until 1999, when Hong Kong and Macau were granted Special Administrative Region status as part of the PRC, allowing them significant autonomous control over local politics, media and economic policy while yielding to Beijing on major foreign policy and defense matters. Today, Macau's cultural heritage, tradition of savvy wheeling and dealing, and special political status have combined to make it a tourist favorite and gaming Mecca.
Climate
Macau sits opposite Hong Kong on the western edge of the Pearl River Delta and shares its steamy subtropical climate. The weather is subject to the East Asia Monsoon system, which makes for rainy summers and relatively dry winters. With an average year-round temperature of 22°C, Macau is quite tolerable in the winter (average January temperature is 15°C) and rather hot in the summer (July's average is 29°C, with many days soaring well into the 30s°C). Add high humidity—usually between 75% and 90%—and you'll join many Macanese in seeking air-conditioned relief between June and September. October through early December are lovely, with sunny, warm days and lower average humidity. Spring is also nice, though the humidity begins to build in April and rain is fairly frequent.
Macau offers some of the ritziest and glitziest accomodation you'll find anywhere, from Dubai to Vegas. Highrollers might find the new Venetian Macau or one of the Macau Peninsula's other casino hotels, while mere tourists may look to one of the island's many cheaper options, such as the popular Royal Macau. If you favor colonial charm, you won't be disappointed. The budget East Asia Hotel is one of many hotels situated in old Portuguese-era buildings, the Pousada de Mong Ha provides a higher grade of service in an old inn, and the famed Lisboa Hotel features both an old wing and a new one, along with one of the city's classic casinos, not to be missed in the glare cast by the Venetian and other garish newcomers.
In short, there's no shortage of hotel rooms of all grades in Macau, though you'll want to make sure you get your reservations in early for weekend or holiday stays. Browse our growing Macau listings for details on many more hotels.
Macau is a gourmand's paradise. The tiny settlement has long been a point of contact between disparate cultures, and it's no surprise that its cuisine—to the world's great fortune—reflects this. Former colonial ruler, Portugal, contributes a Mediterranean love of olive oil and savory herbs as well as the seafaring nation's beloved bacalhau (dried salt cod). Guangdong and the Pearl River Delta provide the local ingredients—namely, lots of fresh seafood, rice and local spices. Former Portuguese colonial trading grounds in Africa and India, especially Goa, contribute ingredients such as coconut, curry and chili peppers. And Southeast Asian and Indonesian flavors have also found their ways into the delightful Macanese mix.
Favorite Mecanese foods include baked, grilled, stewed or boiled bacalhau; caldo verde, a vegetable and olive oil soup with pork sausage; juicy prawns grilled with chili; pasteis de nata (custard tarts); the spicy hot Galinha Africana (African chicken); and European-style breads. A good bottle of wine often accompanies dinner. Of course, you're in southern China, and the influence of nearby Guangzhou means that delicious dim sum can be easily found for breakfast or dinner. And you're in one of the world's biggest casino cities, so international fare of all kinds is not only readily available, but is often available around the clock.
Getting Around
You can fly into, but most arrive via Hong Kong (though Macau bargain fares are becoming more common). Getting around the city is easy. English-language maps and bus routes are available at the counters of the Macau Tourist Bureau on Largo de Senado (Senado Square) downtown or at the Macau Ferry Terminal. Buses run between around 6:00 a.m. and midnight. Renting cars, motorcycles and bicycles is easy—ask at a hotel for details. Taxis can be ordered by phone and efficient boat and ferry services operate out of the main port. Pedicabs and replicas of 1920s London buses are fun, if not always efficient.
Due to its free port status, travel between Macau and the Chinese mainland or Hong Kong, passes through immigration. Rules change, so check the latest requirements. Generally, you can obtain a 30-day Macau visa upon arrival.
Bus
Bus routes are posted in both Chinese and Portuguese. Buses and minibuses run on the Macau Peninsula, Taipa and Coloane. Bus Nos. 11, 22, 28A, 30, 33 and 34 run between the peninsula and Taipa; 21, 21A , 25, 26 and 26A run between the peninsula and the islands; the AP1 goes to the airport. Within the peninsula the fare is Macau petaca (MOP$) 2.50; it's MOP$3.30 to Taipa, MOP$4-5 to Coloane and MOP$3.30 to the airport. Provide exact change.
Taxi
Base rate is MOP$11.00 for the first 1,500 meters with MOP$1.00 added for every additional 180 meters. MOP$1.00 per 50 seconds for waiting. There is also a surcharge of MOP$3 for each item of luggage in the trunk. Surcharges: MOP$5 from the airport or peninsular to Coloane; MOP$2 from Taipa to Coloane. No surcharge from Macau to Taipa or from the islands back to the peninsula. For taxi service call 853 2851 9519 or 853 2893 9939 (English isn't always understood). Some drivers speak English; all carry maps in Chinese, English and Portuguese.
Air
Located on Taipa, Macau International Airport serves regional destinations with lights to Hong Kong, Taipei and most major mainland Chinese cities daily. Cabs take about 5-10 minutes from the airport to Taipai, 15 to the Ferry Terminal or city center, and 20 to the Barrier Gate.
The airport tax of MOP$80-130 (MOP$50 for children aged between 2 to 12) and departure tax are usually included in the price of your ticket. Call the airport at 853 2886 1111 or visit its website at www.macau-airport.com for more.
Helicopters fly between Hong Kong Shun Tak Center and the helipad at Macau Ferry Terminal. Flights from Macau to Hong Kong run between 9:00 a.m. and 10:30 p.m. and from Hong Kong to Macau between around 9:30 a.m. and 10:30 p.m. daily, departing every 30 minutes. Service also available between Macau Ferry Terminal and Shenzhen Baoan Airport; trips run about 25 minutes with about five flights daily. For current fares and more info, contact:
Macau: 853 2872 7288; Hong Kong: 852 2108 9898; Shenzhen: 86 755 2777 8333
Website: www.heliexpress.com.
Airport Bus
For passengers only passing through, an airport Express Link Bus runs directly to the Ferry Terminal. There are also airport buses to the Barrier Gate and Coloane. You can take Cross-Boundary buses to major cities in Guangdong (passports and visas required).
Bus to Macau
All buses running between Macau and Guangzhou cross the Barrier Gate immigration checkpoint (7:00 a.m. until midnight). Buses run between 7:15 a.m. and 9:30 p.m., departing from the stop near the Masters Hotel (Avenida Almeida Ribeiro and Rua das Lorchas). You can also cross at the COTAI Frontier Post (Lotus Bridge) in the Taipa-Coloane Reclaimed Area, open from 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. For inquiries, call 853 2893 3888.
Ferries
All ferries use the Macau Ferry Terminal except one Shenzhen route, departing from the Macau Pier. Most Hong Kong-Macau travelers take the ferry (about a one-hour voyage; try to arrive at least 30 minutes before departure for immigration procedures) thanks to the convenient Shun Tak Center terminal; the Hong Kong International Airport ferry (a 45-minute trip) skips Immigration and Customs. You can take a ferry from the Shenzhen Fuyong Terminal (a one-hour trip) or Shekou (1:20). Kowloon's China (HK) Ferry Terminal is used for turbojet and hover-ferry service to and from Macau (about 1 hour). Website: www.turbojet.com.hk. For all water transport, expect to pay an embarkation tax of MOP$25.
Shop duty-free in Macau, where you can score a range of luxury goods, from gold, jewelry, watches, cameras, electronics and wines. You can either shop with Hong Kong dollars (HKD) or Macanese patacas (MOP), and most places will take major international cards; ATMs are plentiful and accept most international cards. The pataca's exchange value is virtually identical to that of the HKD and RMB. Be careful of fakes and make sure you get receipts and certificates of quality for big-ticket items, as rip-offs are not unheard of (you can look for "certified shops," which have been recognized by the city for complaint-free service).
In the north of the Macau Peninsula, the pedestrian-only Red Market features some fine examples of art deco architecture (much of painted red, hence the name) and some excellent shopping, as does the Avenida de Horta e Costa as it heads southeast from the Red Market into the "Three Lamps" district. To the south, Senado Square sits in the midst of a number of small shops, many of which specialize in fashion, designer brands, cosmetics and perfumes. The area around the famous Sao Paulo Church is good for antique furniture, coins, pottery and ceramics. A number of large modern malls complement the shops and boutiques in the old city New Yaohan and the Macau Landmark are among the most popular. Finally, what would a gambling town be without pawnshops? Whether you're looking for a way to buy a few more chips for another night at the casinos or you're looking to benefit from some anonymous punter's poor luck, Macau pawnshops are worth a peek, if only to remind you to take it easy at the roulette wheel.
Casinos and Macau go back to 1847, when the Portuguese licensed gambling to revive an economy that took a dive after shipping business migrated across the Pearl River Delta to Hong Kong, which Great Britain had taken control of after the first Opium War in 1841. A century-and-a-half later, that decision is paying off big-time. Macau's gaming economy is booming. The world's largest casino, the Venetian Macau joins the Sands, Wynn Macau and nearly 20 others in entertaining growing throngs of punters. All the gambling has, of course, fueled the city's nightlife scene and added a gaudy Las Vegas edge to Macau's performing arts (not to mention, boosting its shopping options). And lest we forget the city's long history, the Museo de Macau and a number of other cultural sites of interest preserve and present Mecanese traditions and culture. A host of festivals and special events celebrate ancient traditions while others establish new ones.
Let us know about your Macau experience in our comments section, where you can also find out what other travelers have to say. And for the latest on having a good time in Macau, check out our listings for the best in Clubs & Bars, Performing Arts, Museums & Galleries and Festivals & Events.
Clubs & Bars
If glitzy casino floorshows and a night of gambling are your thing, Macau's got it covered. The casino scene has become increasingly competitive with the arrival of the Venetian Macau, which comes complete with canals and gondolas and boasts of being "large enough to hold ninety Boeing 747 jumbo jets". The Venetian also sponsors sporting events, from top-rated tennis to NBA exhibition games, as well as Las Vegas-style spectacles. Other top casinos, including the floating Macau Palace Casino, Hotel Lisboa, Sands Macau, Galaxy Waldo Casino and Macau Palace Casino are all upping the ante, some with expansions in the works or underway and all with competitive event programming and special deals to bring in the crowds. Downtown's Rua de S. Domingos is a bar street just north of the main square, Largo do Senado, packed with bars and cafes. Avenida Dr. Sun Yat-sen is another bar street worth checking out; facing the Outer Harbor (Porto Exterior) it offers a row of bars offering live music and outdoor seating. Local discos and karaoke clubs are open till all hours and can be found all over town. If you're looking for a quieter scene, try head to Taipa and Coloane.
Performing Arts
The casinos feature a number of Vegas-esque shows, from the slightly raunchy Crazy Paris Show at Hotel Lisboa to any number of other dance revues mixing Chinese, European cabaret and Latin elements. For something a little more authentic, check the Macau Cultural Centre schedule for theater, dance and musical performance. Various bars around town offer jazz, cabaret and lounge music.
Museums & Galleries
The Museo de Macau provides a long view of the area with excellent permanent exhibits on local history as well as visiting Chinese and international shows. The Macau Museum of Art covers ancient to contemporary, Chinese to international. For a nice, safe drinking and driving combo, check out the Grand Prix Museum then head to the Wine Museum (free samples included with entry).
Festivals & Events
From the internationally acclaimed Macau Grand Prix, which sees the city's old streets come alive with the roar of racing engines, to the Portuguese Catholic Procession of Our Lady of Fatima to the A-Ma Festival that honors the Goddess of Seafarers and from whom Macau reputedly took its name, the city's annual events calendar offers a unique mix of Macanese culture, thrills and fun.