Shenyang (Shényáng, 沈阳), the capital of China's northeastern Liaoning Province, is as famous in the 21st century for its overly aggressive drivers as it was in the 17th century for its overly aggressive Manchu cavalry. At that time it was known as "Mukden" and was the capital of a Manchu state that first broke away from Ming Dynasty China, then conquered it, taking Beijing in 1644 and establishing China's last imperial dynasty, the Qing.
Today, historical Shenyang is largely lost beneath the familiar organized chaos of China's post-Mao economic boom times. Still, the patient and persistent traveler will be rewarded. Amidst the flyovers and highways, office towers and neon signs, smog and famously awful Shenyang traffic, remnants of Manchu glory remain.
First among Shenyang attractions is the Shenyang Imperial Palace (Mukden Palace). Begun in 16...
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