With a population just above 3,000 people, Nyingtri (also written Nyangtri and called Linzhi in Mandarin) is a good place to get a feel for a different kind of Tibet than the one you'll find in Lhasa and the west. The people in town and the surrounding area still practive the indigenous Bon faith, which predates the arrival of Buddhism in Tibet by centuries. For those interested in Tibetan religion and culture, there are three Bon monasteries—Neche Goshog, Yungdrungling and Sigyal—to visit, as well as Bonri, one of the religion's most sacred mountains.
Along with the nearby town of Bayi, with its famed Buddhist Buchu Monastery and Lamaling Temple, and the dramatic Yarlung Tsangpo Canyon and Tsangpo Gorges, Nyngtri makes for a wonderful—if rugged—stopover on a tour of southeastern Tibet.
History
Due to its remote location in the midst of southeastern Tibet's mountains and forests, Nyingtri has maintained a firm grasp on its deeply rooted culture. Nyingtri residents are generally members of the either the Menpa or Lhoba peoples, both of whom possess long-standing reputations for devotion to tradition. Indeed, the ancient Bon faith still dominates in the area, many centuries after Buddhism displaced it throughout most of Tibet.
The Menpa and Lhoba are closely related to mainstream Tibetan culture, though they are considered separate ethnic minorities by the Chinese state and they each have their own distinct languages and cultural practices.
Nyingtri was a much more active town before 1950 and the Chinese invasion, home to several Bon schools in addition to its temples. Nonetheless, it has managed to retain many of its traditional ways in the face of encroaching change.
Climate
With an elevation of 3,000 meters, Nyingtri has a milder climate than the rest of Tibet. Rainfall is common to the area. Even in winter, temperatures remain fairly mild, rarely dropping far below 0 °C (32 °F). The summer monthly average is around 30 °C (85 °F).
Travelers usually stay in Bayi rather than Nyingtri, but there are a couple low-budget, dormitory-style hotels available. Don't expect anything as high-class as indoor bathrooms, and consider yourself lucky if you get hot water.
There are a couple of places to eat in town but nearby Bayi (18 km/11 miles away) has much more to offer. However, if you want to eat in Nyingtri, just walk up and down the town's two streets and poke your head in the handfull of small restaurants you find. The food is generally bland but filling. Another option is to eat at a local's home or inquire about eating with the monks at one of Nyingtri's monasteries (expect to give them at least 5 RMB for your meal, though a larger donation would certainly be appreciated).
Getting Around
Taxis are available but, as with most places in Tibet, there are no meters--agree on a price before you set out. Roads may be blocked or even barely existant in certain areas, so be prepared to do a bit of hiking. The town is tiny and most attractions in Nyingtri can be conveniently enough reached by foot.
To and from Nyingtri
Many travelers report the best way to travel to Nyingtri is to hire a car, allowing you to stop and enjoy the scenery along the way. The drive into the area passes through some of the most beautiful country Tibet has to offer.
Air
Nyingtri Airport lies 55 km (about 35 miles) from the city center. The tiny Chengdu-Nyingtri Airline provides the only service to and from Nyingtri and, not surprisingly the only flight is offers is to and from Chengdu. For accurate flight information call: 0894 5810 091. There are buses that run to and from the airport everyday which takes about one hour.
Bus
No fewer than 20 buses leave from Lhasa's Dongjiao Bus Station for Nyingtri each week. The trip takes about seven hours. Phone: (0891 6340 523).
Nyingtri and the surrounding area are good places to find both unique handicrafts of the Monpa and Lhoba peoples, including wooden bowls, stone pots, bamboo basketwork and pottery.
As an important trading center southeastern parts of Tibet, nearby Bayi is generally a better bet than Nyingtri for finding handicrafts and other goods from surrounding counties and districts.
The region is also well known among Chinese tourists for its herbs and medicinal plants, many of which are coveted by practioners of traditional Chinese medicine. Be careful when purchasing herbs, as fakes are common and only a real specialist is likely to be able to detect the difference. Among the region's plants and herbs that you might see in a marketplace are wild plantain, wild banana, wild pineapple, wild lemon, edible tree fungi, mushrooms, bamboo shoots and star anise.