In the shadows of mountains and towers, Hong Kong goes about its business, with crowds thronging street markets and luxury malls, dining in steamy dim sum eateries and elegant world-class restaurants and otherwise enjoying a city renowned for its independent spirit, wealth and industriousness.
Hong Kong's unique mix of East and West makes for an exciting, modern metropolis full of surprises. Comprised of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New Territories and the Outer Islands, the Hong Kong Special Administration Region (SAR) is unlike any other place in the world. On Hong Kong Island, skyscrapers soar against a backdrop of lush peaks and ridges, with Victoria Peak providing a stunning counterpoint to architectural landmarks such as I.M. Pei's Bank of China Tower, the modular HSBC Building and the elegant International Finance Centre.
Across Victoria Harbor, Kowloon appears to be entering into competition with its glamorous opposite number (though it has a long way to go), constructing its own phalanx of new high rises—including the International Commerce Centre, which will be the tallest building in the SAR upon completion in 2010—and tempting consumers with brands and bargains galore in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Beyond Kowloon stretch the surprisingly expansive New Territories, including large areas of undeveloped land perfect for getting away from the crowds for a day at the beach or visit to a village with the feel of an older China. To the west, Lantau Island is home to fishing villages and trail-laced parks as well as Hong Kong's top-rated international airport and Hong Kong Disneyland.
History
Hong Kong has known human habitation since the Paleolithic era. The Qin Dynasty (221 BC -206 BC) brought it under its rule when it first unified China, and by the time of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) Hong Kong had become a significant trading and military outpost, benefiting from its strategic position near the Pearl River Delta and proximity to Guangzhou (Canton), where the British and European traders established a presence in the late seventeenth century. In 1841, the growing port of Hong Kong and its valuable deep-water harbor were handed over to the British as a result of concessions wrested from the Qing Dynasty after the First Opium War. After the Second Opium War in 1860, Kowloon Peninsula was ceded to Britain and in 1898 the New Territories were leased to the United Kingdom for 99 years.
By the time of the Second World War, Hong Kong had grown wealthy, though the European colonists and Chinese residents lived in very different worlds. The colonists, known as tai pan ("big shots") to the locals, had built railroads, schools and clubs, effectively isolating themselves from the native culture around them. Many Chinese lived near the harbor, while the tai pan largely lived further up Victoria Peak, away from the heat and bustle of the waterfront. Kowloon's famous Walled City, which had remained under nominal Chinese control under the treaty, became an infamous ghetto and one of the most densely populated spots on earth (the city was razed in 1993 and replaced by today's Kowloon Walled City Park).
All of this radically changed on December 8, 1941, when just eight hours after the attack on Pearl Harbor Japanese bombs rained on Hong Kong. Commonwealth troops and Chinese volunteers held off the Japanese for 17 days until Christmas Day when Japan took the city. They would hold it until the end of the war, though Chinese guerrillas conducted raids and sabotage throughout. After the Japanese surrendered in 1945, Britain resumed control with 52 years remaining on its lease and a big question mark hanging over Hong Kong's future.
Despite the ongoing uncertainty, the economy boomed in the 1950s, fueled in large part by a flood of mainland Chinese who sought refuge from China's civil war. Many were wealthy Shanghainese who brought their businesses with them. With the matter of Hong Kong's return to China looming ever larger, uncertainty grew until 1984, when the Chinese and British Governments signed the Joint Declaration that would return the territory to China effective July 1, 1997. Under the Chinese slogan "One Country, Two Systems," Hong Kong largely retains its own economic and social systems, as well as a good deal of its colonial British character. It hasn't always been easy—Hong Kong has recently weathered the SARS epidemic and the Asian Financial Crisis—but despite rocky times the city is thriving, resilient as ever.
Climate
Spring is cool and pleasant with average temperatures running between about 17 ºC and 23 ºC. Summer is hot and very humid, with average high temperatures from June through September running to 30 ºC (91ºF) and humidity that hovers around 90%. Typhoon season lasts May to September with frequent downpours. Fall brings mild weather with averages between the low to mid 20sºC (70s ºF) and clear skies. Winter is dry and can get chilly, averaging 17 ºC (62 ºF) with temperatures occasionally dipping into the mid-teens Centigrade (mid-50s ºF). The best time to visit Hong Kong is in the spring and fall, when the weather is pleasant and the rain less frequent.
Many of Hong Kong's best deals are to be found in Kowloon's Tsim Sha Tsui area. It's not that Hong Kong Island doesn't have plenty of options, especially at the luxury end; rather, it's a mere matter of expense. The SAR boasts some of the world's best accommodations right in the heart of the city if you're willing to drop several grand a night. If you're on a tight budget, however, you're likely to end up a considerable distance from the center. Fortunately, Hong Kong's public transportation is outstanding and cheap. For the best results, always book ahead.
If there's one thing Hong Kong residents like better than shopping, it's eating. Hong Kong's own cuisine is heavily influenced by Cantonese, with elements of regional Hakka cooking and other Chinese and Western styles added to the mix. The best place to start your exploration of Hong Kong cuisine is dim sum (also known as yum cha), whether for breakfast or lunch. Often selected tableside from carts, sometimes ordered from a menu card, dim sum features small portions of steamed or fried delicacies cooked and served in small bamboo steamers or presented on individual plates. Dim sum dishes include flaky turnip pastries, steamed shrimp dumplings (har gau), steamed BBQ pork buns (cha siu bao), pork dumplings (siu mai) and sweet coconut cakes or egg tarts—just to name a few.
For some of the best, try the Lin Heung Tea House in Central (be ready for a slight wait and be prepared to share a table), the Royal Garden Hotel in Kowloon or Maxim's Palace near the Star Ferry Terminal in Central. Tea (cha) is another key element—try po lay (a red tea) or a slightly stronger sau may (green tea). For popular coffee milks and milk teas try Lee Theatre Plaza, Times Square and Jardine's Crescent in Causeway Bay. Bubble teas and fruit juices are also popular, providing welcome refreshment on steamy days—try one of popular chain Hui Lau Shan's locations. Hong Kong also has great "fast" food and street food. Snack on crispy wonton noodles with beef, and sweet and sour meat in the street-front restaurants along Temple Street in Tsim Sha Tsui or try Mak's Noodles in Central or Happy Garden Noodle and Congee Kitchen in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Getting Around
Hong Kong residents enjoy an impressive and highly integrated public transportation system that includes picturesque double-decker trams, fast and efficient subway and light rail, a reliable bus network (including many double deckers) and ferries (including the famous Star Ferry)—all of which can be paid for with the convenient Octopus Card, a rechargeable smart card that makes getting around the mountainous islands and peninsula of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR) a breeze. Add nearly omnipresent taxis, the world's longest, covered escalator and the charming Peak Tram and you've got a city that can be a lot of fun to get around in. Hong Kong International Airport has been highly rated for convenience and service and the Airport Express train whisks visitors to and from the Hong Kong International Airport in under 25 minutes. Travelers between mainland China and Hong Kong should review visa regulations. Most hotels offer assistance with visa questions. In addition to transportation fares, The Octopus Card can be used at gas stations, in many vending machines, at a number of convenience stores, parking lots, supermarkets and other point-of-sale sites. The standard card can be purchased for 150 HKD with an initial value of 100 HKD.
Subway and Light Rail
The city's MTR (Mass Transit Railway) runs from 6:00 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. A single trip costs from HKD 4 to HKD 26. The KCR (Kowloon Canton Railway), Hong Kong's commuter rail, brings passengers from Kowloon to the Chinese border via the New Territories. The KCR runs from 5:28 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. Ticket prices range from HKD 3.5 to HKD 36.5. See Air below for information on the Airport Express.
Tram
Hop on one of Hong Kong Island trams for an exciting trip around town. Single trips costs HKD 3 (pay when exiting in the front). Trams run from Happy Valley to Kennedy Town.
Ferry
The Star Ferry, connecting Hong Kong Island to Kowloon, is one of the world's best known ferries, and for good reason. For only HKD 5.30 (less for kids and the elderly or with a monthly fare card) you can take in spectacular views of Hong Kong Harbor. Catch the ferry at the Central or Tsim Sha Tsui docks from 6:30 a.m. and 11:30 p.m. Ferries also service outlying points such as Lantau and Lamma Islands.
Taxi
Wave down a red taxi in any area of the city. The base rate is HKD 15 (HKD 12 in the New Territories). You will be charged double for any tolls en route. Note that taxis do not, as of now, accept Octopus Cards.
Bus
City buses run from 6:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Pick up a map of major bus routes at metro stops. Passengers without an Octopus Card need exact change to board the bus (HKD 1.20 to HKD 45, depending on your destination).
To and from Hong Kong
Air
Hong Kong's International airport at Chek Lap Kok lies 40 km (25 miles) from downtown, on the north end of Lantau Island. The airport provides flights to most major cities in Asia and around the world. Several daily flights travel between Chinese cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Guilin. New arrivals can take the Airport Express train from the airport to Kowloon railway station (19 minutes) or Hong Kong railway station (23 minutes). Free shuttle buses run from these stations to the HK Convention and Exhibition Center and various hotels. The Airport Express operates between 5:50 a.m. to 12:48 a.m. Single journeys range from HKD 60 to HKD 100, depending on your destination. Departing passengers can even check in their bags at the Airport Express Terminal at Hong Kong Station 24 hours to 90 minutes before their flight. Flying to Shenzhen: Some visitors prefer to fly directly to or from Shenzhen, right across the border from Hong Kong, rather than fly directly to Hong Kong. Shenzhen is connected by ferry, bus or via the KCR to Hong Kong.
Train
Hong Kong's Hung Hom Railway station in Kowloon services direct trains to several locations in Guangzhou, as well as Shanghai and Beijing. Remember, passengers without a valid China visa will not be allowed on the train.
Boat
The Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island takes passengers to and from Macau. The China Hong Kong Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui provides ferry service to mainland cities of Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Shanghai, Xiamen and Zhuhai.
If you love shopping, you'll love Hong Kong. It's that simple. Everywhere you turn there's something wonderful for sale. Hong Kong boasts luxury boutiques, vast malls, huge electronic markets, countless souvenir stalls, enough clothing stores to outfit the entire planet several times over and more, always more. Just remember to look for the red Hong Kong Tourist Board (HKTB) emblem on the shop. This signifies the owner is registered and in good standing. And don't forget to bargain. The shopping is good on both sides of Victoria Harbor. Below is a quick guide to the best Hong Kong Island and Kowloon have to offer.
Central (Hong Kong Island)
The stores along Central's steep Hollywood Road include antiques, sports equipment, and large department stores. Nearby Stanley Street is a great place for cameras and other electronics. The alleys between Li Yuen Street East and Li Yuen Street West are packed with great little clothing stores. Luxury outlets for brands such as Versace, Prada, Gucci and Armani line Central's main streets.
Causeway Bay (Hong Kong Island)
East of Central, Causeway Bay is home to several fantastic shopping malls, including Times Square and the Japanese import, Sogo. A good spot to purchase cosmetics and electronics.
Stanley (Hong Kong Island)
Stanley, located in the south of Hong Kong Island, is home to a lovely bay and a large open-air market, chock full of bargains on clothing, toys, luggage, souvenirs, and arts and crafts. A good place to shop for silk garments and traditional-style Chinese fashions.
Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon)
Pure commerce: Over 700 shops line Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, spilling into adjacent lanes and alleys. Compared to the sleek skyscrapers and ultramodern malls across Victoria Harbor, it's not particularly pretty, but pretty is not the point. You'll likely be accosted by hawkers offering fake watches and Indian tailor-made suits (Britain's long stewardship of the region resulted in, among other things, a sizeable Indian population settling in Kowloon). Be wary of cameras, sunglasses and cheaper electrical goods here - they're often imitations and a number of tourists have complained of rip-off artists in the area. With a pinch of caution, however, it's another colorful thread in Hong Kong's tapestry. When the shopping buzz wears off, there are some good restaurants and bars in the area, including some good and affordable Indian food. If you're up for even more shopping, the nearby Harbor City Shopping Center offers a large selection of clothing and electronics for decent prices. Curio Ally south of Haiping Road sells Chinese knick-knacks and Tsim Sha Tsui's Austin Avenue remains one of the best places for affordable fashions. Narrow Midun Road in Kowloon hosts several reasonable tailor shops and leather stores. Find imported goods from around Asia, including Indian cloth and Japanese clothing, on Jianafen Road.
Mong Kok (Kowloon)
A fascinating area of cramped Chinese markets, visit Fa Yuen Street and Tong Choi Street for inexpensive clothing and second-hand electronics. The Jade market on Kansu Street also makes for a popular stop - just be wary of fakes. In the evening, nearby Temple Street, not far from the Jordan Street MTR stop, comes alive with CD, VCD and DVD stalls and open-air restaurants. Known as the Night Market, you can purchase all sorts of the usual things: clothing, sunglasses, watches, jewelry... though you should be on your guard against fakes and bargain like mad.
Hong Kong is a brilliant place for a vacation, offering everything from the utmost in cosmopolitan sophistication to quiet mountain trails and remote beaches, with some of the world's best shopping and dining thrown in for good measure. A night out in the neon city can take you to some of the ritziest clubs, hippest discos and most intriguing bars and clubs in China, not to mention some of the most enjoyable karaoke.
As a city built on commerce, Hong Kong's reputation for culture has traditionally suffered somewhat; that's changing, however, as the city, once isolated from the mainland, now competes with Beijing, Shanghai and nearby Shenzhen for top honors in every area (it certainly wins hands-down in the theme park category as home of Hong Kong Disneyland).
The music scene is improving, with festivals supplementing club dates by local and touring bands and DJs, supplementing the Hong Kong's traditional delightfully cheesy Cantopop offerings. The city is rightfully proud of its famous film industry, and cinema is huge (think Gong Li, Chow Yun-Fat, Jackie Chan and Bruce Lee). Unlike the more restrictive mainland, Hong Kong shows most first-run films from around the world within days of their release (sometimes dubbed into Cantonese, so be careful). Hong Kong also loves the ponies—you can catch a race at one of several tracks in the SAR, including Happy Valley Racecourse in the midst of the city, and come 2008, Olympic equestrian events will be held in Hong Kong (and if gambling's your thing, you can always pop over to Macau's casinos). The city's stages host world-class symphonies, dance companies and theatrical performances. Finally, Hong Kong has several excellent history and art museums and a number of art galleries.
Share your experiences and recommendations for a good time in Hong Kong in our comments section below .
Bars & Clubs
Come nightfall, Hong Kong's expats and locals alike congregate at Lan Kwai Fong, a funky collection of restaurants, bars, and clubs running along steep, narrow streets. Nearby, Soho ("South of Hollywood Road") is becoming a draw. To the west, Wan Chai offers a chiller scene, with a number of nightspots scattered throughout a district once known for raunchy dives and sailor bars. In Kowloon, try the bars along, Nathan Road, Ashley Road and in Tsim Sha Tsui East.
And you want to be the star of your own show, Hong Kong karaoke is among the best in the world: you can find large, sleek complexes containing hundreds of private rooms with selections cater to the area's youth as well as after-work crowds. Reserve a room by the hour and sit back, have a drink and belt out your favorite tunes. Finally, if you've had enough of the crowds, bright lights and loud music, you can escape to any number of elegant lounges around the city, many with stunning views.
Performing Arts
Hong Kong's performing arts calendar features a steady stream of international touring acts combined with increasing cultural exchange with the rest of China, though visitors accustomed to the choices available in major European or American cities—or Beijing, for that matter—will find the SAR's offerings a bit thin. That said, the Hong Kong Arts Festival brings world-class classical music, jazz, dance, opera and theater to town every February, running into March. In the past it's hosted performers from Ornette Coleman to Yo Yo Ma to Jose Carreras and groups including the Royal Shakespeare Company and the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. Year round, the Hong Kong Arts Centre and nearby Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts are good bets for dance, music and opera, as is the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, which is home to both the Western-style Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra and the largest Chinese instrumental group in the world, the Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra.
Museums & Galleries
For a selection of Chinese antiquities and classical art, including an excellent collection of work from China's southern Guangdong Province, visit the Hong Kong Museum of Art in Tsim Sha Tsui. The museum, housed in a blocky, almost windowless 1991 building near the Star Ferry terminal, also features regular international exhibitions. Also on the Kowloon side of Victoria Harbor is the fascinating Hong Kong Museum of History, opened in 2001, which vividly tells the tale of Hong Kong from Neolithic settlement to today's ultramodern metropolis. The SAR's long list of museums likewise covers an impressive range of local, Chinese and international history, from the Law Uk Folk Museum and Sam Tung Uk Museum, both of which focus on the region's indigenous Hakka culture, to the Hong Kong Scien