Surrounded by endless, undulating Mongolian grasslands it's no wonder that many confuse the meaning of "Hohhot," which actually means "Blue City," with the common misnomer of "Green City." Popular during the summer months for its cooler climate and wide-open spaces, Hohhot is also known for its significance in Buddhist history: Hohhot (Huhehaote in Mandarin) is where Altan Khan, the great Mongol leader, rekindled a powerful relationship between Mongols and Tibetan Buddhists when he invited the third Grand Lama, Sonam Gyatso, to help him spread Buddhism throughout his empire, subsequently popularizing the term "Dalai" as the Grand Lama's new honorific.
The capital of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region since 1952, Hohhot is encircled by the Daqing Mountains (Great Green Mountains) to the north and the Hetao Plateau in the south. A bustling city and transportation hub, Hohhot is home to 36 ethnicities including Mongol, Heng, Hui, Man and Erwenk peoples and is the starting point for treks into the enormous Gegentala, Huitengxile and Xilamuren grasslands, all of which are ideal for stargazers and horseback riding enthusiasts who find solace in the measureless expanses of green beyond the city's edge. Also of note, the deserts near Hohhot are one of the few places in the world where snow can be seen on sand dunes.
Though the rapid modernization common to most cities in China has run roughshod over many of Hohhot's relics, there are still a number of historical monuments to explore. Old Hohhot, in the southern part of the city, is home to the Great Mosque, evidencing Hohhot's longstanding multi-culturalism with its nuanced mix of Chinese and Arabic design, while the Dazhao Temple, also known as the "Silver Buddha Temple" for the statue dedicated by the third Dalai Lama, provides serenity if you're looking to escape the usual commercial tourist scene.
On the other hand, if a little commercialism is in order, take a stroll down Xincheng Lu and visit the Nationalities Market where items as diverse as Mongolian silverwares, carpets, cashmere, camel hair products, traditional knives, decorative deer antlers and narrow-leaved oleaster curtains might be found. A bowl of Hohhot's signature dish—shuan yanrou (Mongolian Hotpot) will help keep up the energy reserves needed for the excursion.
History
Settled chiefly by the Mongolian tribes of Tumet and Chahar, the area around Hohhot has been inhabited since about 300 BC, but it wasn't until around 1580, when great Mongol leader Altan Khan chose the site to found his new imperial capital of Kuku-Khoto ("Blue City"), that it gained prominence. A visionary Buddhist, Altan Khan invited the third Grand Lama, Sonam Gyatso, to the city to teach his people about Buddhism. However, it wouldn't be long after Altan Khan's death that Hohhot would change hands.
In 1635, the Manchu defeated Altan's successor, Likdan Khan, and soon after, Hohhot became part of the newly formed imperial region of Inner Mongolia. Over the years the city slowly evolved into two different communities of Mongols and Manchu. Much later, in 1937, Hohhot's province of Suiyuan fell under Japanese control, but was recaptured by the Chinese in 1945. Supporting traditional Mongol aspirations for autonomy, the communists, led by one Ulanhu (Chinese name Yun Ze) formally established the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, China's first autonomous region, and in 1952, Hohhot became its capital.
The complete story is detailed at the Inner Mongolian Museum.
Climate
If you're still sweltering from the sticky heat that prevails in Southern China, a trip to Hohhot might be just what you need. The Inner Mongolian steppes are dry and increasingly arid as you move westward towards the Gobi Desert. Inner Mongolia has a temperate continental climate, with warm and windy springs.
Summer is short and hot with many rainy days and average temperatures between 16 and 27°C. Autumn usually sees early frost and plummeting temperatures and winter is long, bitter and cold with temperatures dropping to a bone-chilling -40° C. Whatever time of year you choose to visit, make sure you pack a variety of clothes as temperatures vary by 10 to 16°C over the course of a day. Windbreakers are a must.
If you're looking for something palatial or historic looking, Hohhot might leave you wanting a little, rapid development has sealed the fate of most historic buildings, ensuring that none find themselves reincarnated as ritzy hotels.
Accommodation here is sensible, often quite cheap and mostly comfortable, but there are a couple of dives most will avoid. The Tongda Fandian won't be up to some people's standards. In town, dorm beds can be had for as little as RMB 15, but if you are looking for five-star service, you'll want to have a look at the Inner Mongolia Hotel. Don't let the unprepossessing exterior fool you, once inside you'll find a pool, health center and a good Italian restaurant at your disposal.
One thing you can't miss while you are in Hohhot is the Mongolian food. Vegetarians beware, this is a very meat-intensive cuisine. The most famous dish in town is undoubtedly shuan yangrou (Mongolian hotpot) which can be had in one of the city's main chain restaurants Dunlaishun, at the well-known Malaqin restaurant, or at any number of small family-run restaurants in the city's Mongolian quarter, in the southeast of Hohhot near Daxue Lu (University Road).
Also worth trying is the succulent roast leg of lamb, it's a little pricier, but for meat-lovers well worth the extra money. Ban Mu Di Youmian Dawang Restaurant has a variety of house specialties you might want to try. Wowo, husked wheat pasta with bamboo steamers look like little honeycombs, while dundun, husked-what pancakes filled with carrots, potato, and cabbage, are sliced like Mediterranean Levant sandwiches.
If you're looking for Chinese fare, you'll find that the Taiwan Beef Noodle Restaurant opposite the train station hits the spot, and they have a limited English menu. Higher quality Chinese fare can be had in higher end hotels, notably the Inner Mongolian, Zhaojun and Xingcheng hotels. Foreign food is in short supply in the city. You can try the hotels mentioned above, which are a little pricey, or Florence, which serves mediocre pizza, pasta, salads, burgers and steaks, as well as the odd cappuccino and tiramisu.
Getting Around
The base rate for taxis is 6 RMB for the first three kilometers and then 1 RMB per additional kilometer. For some relative new taxis of better quality, the base rate is 8 RMB for the first three kilometers and then 1.5 RMB per additional kilometer.
To and From Hohhot
Air
Hohhot Baita Airport is located 15 km northeast to downtown. There are flights to and from Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Shanghai, Wuhan and Chifeng etc.
Train
Beijing-Baotou Railway Line goes through Hohhot City. There are trains to Beijing, Tongliao, Lanzhou, Wuhai and Dongsheng. International train to Ulan Bator is also available.
Bus
Hohhot-Baotou Freeway is in use now and there are roads leading to every county. Many remote farming and pasturing areas, which were closed to the outside world for centuries, are now accessible by road. There are dozens of buses heading towards all the nearby cities and towns daily. Buses running between Hohhot and some Mongolian and Russian cities located on the border with China are also available.
If Buddhist artifacts and Mongolian crafts are your thing, then Hohhot’s got something for you. On offer is a wide assortment of traditional Mongolian products such as Mongolian knives, carpets, camel hair products (great for keeping warm!), brass hotpots, cashmere sweaters, silver bowls, jade bottles, as well as quality leather products.
A visit to Minzu Shangchang (Minorities Department Store) on Hongshan Xi Lu, or to the shops around the Inner Mongolia Museum will put you within haggling range. To hit the cashmere jackpot, head over to Yangrou Fuzhuang Fushi Zhixiao Zhongxin (the Cashmere Products Marketing Center) across from the Zhaojun Hotel.
If Buddhist artifacts are your bag, make sure to visit the Dazhao and Xilituzhao temple area. Don’t forget to take a walk through the Muslim Quarter’s zigzagging streets, you’ll find covered market halls, stalls and shops selling an interesting array of Chinese and Mongolian goods. If you decide to pay a visit to one of the mosques, please make sure to dress appropriately.
Be warned, it’s not unusual to see merchants peddling cow and goat skulls on the street, but don’t be alarmed. Traditionally, it’s believed that an animal’s soul is still resident after it’s been eaten, if you place its skull in a prominent place, you’ll honor it, and it will bring you good luck in business. To get your new business thriving, cow skulls can be purchased for about RMB 280, goat skulls RMB 160.
Though it boasts nearly 40 ethnicities, Hohhot is one of the smaller capital cities of China, thus, entertainment options are more limited here than in larger cities such has Shanghai or Beijing. Though there are a few nightclubs to visit, namely, Jiangdu bar, Hongdu bar, and Blue Sine bar, your best bet for entertainment in Hohhot is to take part in some of Hohhot’s festivals, and in paying a visit to its single museum. The Inner Mongolia Museum is where you’ll find a motley assortment of ethnic Mongolian items, maps and objects detailing the exploits of Genghis Khan and the once-colossal Mongol Empire, as well as, yes of course, a full dinosaur skeleton.
Festivals
The best time to visit Hohhot is in the summer, which is when all the festivals happen. If you’d like to catch some authentic Mongolian culture in action you’ll want to see what happens during the Naadam festival. The dates are a little loose, but if you’re around in late July through August you should be able to catch a glimpse, either at the Inner Mongolia Horse Race Course, or out in the grasslands. The Hohhot Chinese snacks festival, which runs from August 1st to 12th,, is your chance to sample from nearly 1000 different kinds of dishes from all over the world, including such global favorites as fried starfish, hexapod strings and other things you’d never know are delicacies. To take in Folk arts, photos, paintings, and yangko dance competitions, be sure to see the International Folk Arts Festival which takes place in August at the Zhaojun Tomb, which is in of itself an interesting site to visit.