Although desolate and forlorn in its present condition, Jiayuguan historically was known for inspiring sorrow and fear in those threatened with exile; Jiayuguan is the last vestige of Chinese civilization, the final settlement in ancient China's western reaches.
Located in central Gansu province, Jiayuguan was an important stronghold in feudal China's line of defense against the barbaric tribes beyond China's western-most borders.
Today, Jiayuguan is more sedate, towers and turrets have been replaced by iron smelts and shopping malls. In terms of tourism, the city's top attraction is the ancient fort, a storied symbol of safe passage for merchants transporting the Silk Road's coveted riches into the city. Entrance through Jiayuguan's 10-meter high gates offered safety and protection from raiders and enemies.
While Jiayuguan doesn't attract too many long-term visitors, the areas around the city offer some excellent hiking on the July 1st Glacier (Qi Yi Bingchuan). Visitors can also walk along the Overhanging Great Wall (Xuanbi Changcheng) and take in sweeping views of the desert and mountains, or visit the 2000 year old Wei Jin Tombs to see the surprisingly well-preserved wall paintings there.
History
Located 5000 kilometers from the Great Wall's easternmost point at Shanhaiguan, the Jiayuguan fort was built during the Ming era, around 1372 A.D. The fortress is one of the largest defense posts along the Great Wall, and provided much-needed protection against western foes, such as the much-feared Timur, ensuring that the Silk Road yielded its riches to the empire.
According to legend, the designer responsible for the fort's construction was an incredibly meticulous fellow. When the official in charge questioned the accuracy of his estimate regarding the number of bricks needed to build the fort, the designer cheekily added a single brick to the total. Upon the fort's completion, that single brick was the only one left over and can still be found placed loose in one of the gates today.
Climate
Situated in the desert at an altitude of approximately 1,500 meters, Jiayuguan is just north of the snow-capped Qilian Mountains. Lows reach -21ºC (-5.8ºF) in January, while highs reach 34ºC (93ºF) in July, but temperatures vary greatly between day and night year round, so it's best to pack both light and warm clothes.
The best time to visit Jiayuguan is between May and October. Winds can be very strong, so make sure your hat fits tightly, or to wear a scarf if it's a colder time of year.
Budget travelers basically have a single option in the city, the Wumao Binguan just west of the bus station, dorm beds starting at RMB 30. Though it's a little on the shabby side, there is the added benefit of bike rentals for an exceedingly affordable RMB 2 an hour.
Further up the hospitality food chain is the three star Huili Business Hotel, just west of Xiongguan Square.
Lovers of luxury might be dismayed by Jiayuguan's lack of a five star hotel, but the four star Huayuan Hotel has amenities for business and banquets while the more tourist-friendly Great Wall Hotel has a swimming pool and views of the Qilian mountains, all within reasonable proximity to the Great Wall Museum (Jaiyuguan Fort).
There isn't a ton of variety here, but the few options you do have are generally solid. For those with a limited Chinese vocabulary, the Liuyuan Restaurant's spicy Sichuan fare can be ordered from English menus. The restaurant can be easily found directly across from the bus station.
For more adventurous eaters, there are also a good number of street vendors and small local eateries in the Fuqiang Market (Fuqiang Shichang), just north of the city's main intersection.
Planes
Jiayuguan's list of flights is fairly short, and the airport only operates in season. From May to October you can catch flights to and from Xi'an, Lanzhou and Beijing. Tickets can be booked at the CAAC (Zhongguo Minhang ) (0937) 628-7788, in the Jiayuguan Binguan.
Trains
From the city center you can grab minibus #1 to the station in the city's southwestern quarter. All trains going from Urumqi to eastern China stop here. There is a train ticket booking office offering routes to Zhangye, Xi'an, Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai and Zhengzhou. These are long rides, so you'll probably want to book a sleeper, but these are in short supply so book early.
Buses
Buses run to Dunhaung four times daily, Lanzhou three times daily and Zhangye four times daily. Please note that you may be asked to buy a PICC (People's Insurance Company of China) policy, a policy all foreign travelers must purchase to travel on buses that is usually included in ticket prices, but in a few parts of Gansu and Sichuan, are sold seperately. Though enforcement can be spotty, if you are asked to buy a policy, the PICC office is on Xinhua Nan Lu, just north of Lanxin Dong Lu.
Jaiyuguan isn't know for producing souvenirs, fashion or anything else foreigners scour China's markets for, but if you have a look in the night market found north up Xinhua Bei Lu (North Xinhua Road) and right on the first or second road after the traffic circle, who knows? You may find a keeper or two...
Not particularly known for entertainment offerings, Jiayuguan offers a few activities to help keep your evenings interesting.
A stroll through Entertainment Park provides interesting views of giant sculptures, and there are also a few bars scattered around the city, offering you a glimpse into how folks in a forlorn little town get their kicks, which, in itself, could prove highly entertaining.