Often overlooked by visitors on their way west, Hefei offers a pleasant—if not particularly spectacular—glimpse of "developing" China. Formerly a small market town and now Anhui's capital, Hefei entered a period of intensive industrialization in 1949, and today is best known as the home of several of China's top science and technology universities.
Boasting a population of approximately 4.2 million, Hefei is limited in its tourist offerings, but the Anhui Provincial Museum is well worth the trip, as are a number of historical attractions.
History
Hefei's history dates back to the 8th century B.C., when it was the center of the pre-dynastic state of Shu, which fell to the first of China's dynasties, the Qin, in 316 B.C. In the wake of the disintegration of the short-lived Qin, the Kingdom of Chu briefly rose to prominence in the vicinity of Hefei preceding the 207 B.C Han unification of ancient China.
During the tumultuous and oft-romanticized Three Kingdoms period, Hefei was the site of one of China's most famous battles. The Kingdom of Wei had garrisoned the town against the rival Wu, and in the decisive Battle of Hefei a force of some 800 cavalry led by Wei's Zhang Liao defeated a much larger Wu force.
As dynasties and kingdoms rose and fell, Hefei remained an important strategic city, although it's military value was not always matched in other areas. Hefei did, however, develop a strong reputation as the home of top-quality brush-writing instruments, from ink sticks and ink stones to distinctive fine weasel-hair brushes.
Still, Hefei remained something of a backwater well into the 20th century. Well into the the 1930s, it was really only a modest market town of about 30,000. With the arrival of a rail link in the mid-'30s, the economic outlook began to improve, even as the disastrous Second Sino-Japanese War erupted and World War II loomed.
In the wake of their 1949 victory over the Kuomintang, the communists under Mao Zedong shifted the site of Anhui's capital from Anqing to Hefei, initiating a period of industrial development that led to Hefei's present status as a scientific research center.
Today, the remnants of old Hefei remain, from the Ming-era moats ringing the downtown area, to attractions like Lord Bao's Tomb and Mingjiao Temple.
Climate
Hefei experiences rather mild seasonal changes. Summers are hot, topping out with average highs of 33° Celsius. Winter is rather mild, with average lows dropping to -2° in January.
The city is regularly hit hard by rain in July (around 7.8 inches during this, its wettest month); this coincides with the hottest time of the year, meaning that the showers temper the the heat, though they help keep things quite humid.
Hefei has several signature dishes, its local specialties considered part of Anhui's famous regional cuisine. Luzhou Roast Duck, a fatter and saltier version of its Beijing counterpart, features crisp skin, tender meat and a rich taste, and can found at the Luzhou Roast Duck Shop (107 Suzhou Road and 1072 East Changjiang Road).
Other local specialties, including Lord Bao Fish, Caocao Chicken (chicken made with medicinal herbs) and Li Hongzhang Hodgepodge Cuisine (a combination of sea cucumber, sleeve-fish, chicken, ham, pig liver and spinach, braised with chicken soup), can be found at most local restaurants.
Popular eateries include Jin Man Lou Huayuan (96 Tongcheng Road, Tel: (0551) 287-7777), which specializes in Chaozhou and Cantonese cuisine, Huangshan Hui Cuisine Restaurant (1178 Changjiang East Road, accessible via the number 6 bus route) and Lao Xie Longxia (265 Wu Hu Road, Tel:
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0551) 288-4799).
Getting Around
Hefei is easily accessible from anywhere in the mainland by any means of transportation.
Air
Hefei Airport services daily domestic China flights to and from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Hangzhou and Xi'an.
Train
Train travel is also convenient, with direct trains to Shanghai (8.5 hours), Beijing (12 hours), Zhengzhou (9.5 hours) and Bozhou (4.5) hours.
Bus
For those looking to travel by bus, Hefei has several long distance bus stations, and the city's proximity to freeway makes private car and minibus travel a convenient possibility.
Hefei is renowned for producing the tools of the Four Treasures of Study: brush, pen, paper and ink stone; these items making excellent gifts.
The city is also famous for several handicrafts, including the poker-picture (a picture burnt by a stencil pen at high temperature), Zhuhuang painting (a landscape painting on smooth-layered bamboo) and hair embroidery (crochet pictures that use human and animal hair in place of thread).
Outside of these items, Hefei is also home to Anhui's famous tea, the most popular of which are Huangshan Maofeng, Anhui Qihong Tea, Anhui Tun Green Tea and Anhui Houkui Tea.
These items can be found at most shopping malls and centers around the city.
While Hefei is rather light on nightlife options, there are still a few venues for night owls who seek a quick peek inside the city's late night domain.
For those interested in the Chinese "Mega Club" atmosphere, the MeiGuoMei Nightclub, located on Changjiang Road and Tungxi Road (underneath Carrefour), features popular dance hits and enough dice rolling, whiskey and green tea for even the most curious tourists.
People who desire a more laid back environment, complete with live music (on weekends), can head over to Revolutionary Bar (GeMinZhe Jiuba) on Jinzhai Road or Huatong Jiuba (130 Hong Xing Road).
If traditional culture is more your objective, the Lu Opera Troupe of Hefei City regularly performs famous Lu Opera plays, including Li Qingzhao, Baishezhuan, Shuangsidai and Jieluoyi.