Perhaps better known as "Tsingtao," thanks to the use of the old spelling that appears on millions of bottles of China's most famous beer, Qingdao (Qīngdǎo, 青岛) on the Yellow Sea is a fabulous destination for its clean ocean air, beaches, mountainous landscape and German colonial-era architecture, not to mention the aforementioned brew and the Shandong seafood dishes that go so well with it.
The city also has its inevitable fast-paced modern side, and after it was chosen to host the 2008 Olympics sailing events, it enjoyed an across-the-board upgrading of facilities to accommodate waves of new visitors. Qingdao isn't new to the tourist game, however, as it's long been favored as a summer-time escape from Beijing's hot and dusty dog days.
Qingdao's deep water harbor and proximity to Korea and Japan have long made it a strategic port (hence the interest of the Germans), and immigrants and visitors have given the city an additional international twist: Why not try a little kimchi on your bratwurst instead of sauerkraut? It all goes down well with a nice cool Tsingtao beer, brewed with spring water from the holy Taoist mountain Lao Shan, which makes for a beautiful day of hiking and taking in the spectacular views.
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History
Qingdao was little more than a fishing village in a scenic bay before the end of the 19th century. By 1891, the Manchu Qing Dynasty had decided to exploit the bay's strategic position and turn it into a naval base, but the tragic farce of the Boxer Rebellion unleashed a series of events that would deliver Qingdao to the Germans, eager for a stake in East Asia.
The Boxers consisted of Chinese who'd had enough of seeing their country pushed around by European colonial powers while the Qing leadership seemed to stand by helplessly. The Empress Dowager Cixi, who held power in Beijing while her young imperial ward stood in as figurehead, cynically attempted to redirect the Boxer's anger at the Qing toward foreigners.
It worked for a short while, and the Boxers attacked and killed a number of foreigners, as well as foreign-influenced Chinese (for example, Christian converts) before the vastly superior militaries of England, France, Germany and the United States came into play. After besieging the foreign legation in Beijing in 1900, the Boxers were crushed by an international force and Cixi had to flee Beijing in disguise.
By that time, Qingdao had already fallen under German domination, thanks to Kaiser Wilhelm II's exploitation of the murder of two German missionaries in 1897. Germany easily forced the hapless Qing Dynasty to grant a 99-year lease to Qingdao, and they immediately moved in and started building (and brewing beer).
Germany had big plans in East Asia, but the onset of World War I sank those hopes. The ambitious Japanese took advantage of the outbreak of war in Europe to seize Qingdao in 1914, getting an assist from Great Britain, which was only too happy to damage the Kaiser in any way possible. After the war ended, China suffered yet another humiliation at the hands of the Great Powers of the time, as the Treaty of Versailles granted Japan continued rule of the former German colonial outpost.
This led to another popular outcry from the Chinese, with the "May Fourth Movement" protests in Beijing stirring nationalist pride and anti-foreign feeling. Many see this period as setting the stage for the eventual triumph of the Chinese communists who, at that time, were beginning to get organized. Qingdao did return to China in 1922, only to be invaded by the Japanese in 1938 and held for the duration of the Sino-Japanese War.
The city has since weathered the turbulent times surrounding the establishment of the PRC and the Cultural Revolution and emerged as China's fourth largest port and the center of the Shandong peninsula's booming economy while retaining the charm of a seaside resort with a unique architectural heritage. Spend a few days in Qingdao, and it's easy to see why it was chosen as one of China's Olympic cities.
Climate
Qingdao enjoys coastal weather—mild and moist—with summer months in the mid- to upper 20s ºC (upper 70s to mid-80s ºF). January is the coldest month with the temperature hovering around freezing. June and July are the rainy months and August brings warm water temperatures perfect for swimming at one of Qingdao's beaches. The transitional seasons of spring and fall are very pleasant.
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Qingdao is all about seafood. Many seafood restaurants are menu-less, point at the aquarium and pick your dinner affairs, so there's never any doubt about freshness. The marine cuisine extends beyond fish to oysters, lobsters, sea cucumbers, conches and just about anything else that lives in the ocean. The regional cuisine itself features the salty and tangy flavors of soy sauce, shallots and garlic, which complement fish handsomely and also work wonderfully with veggies and soups.
Being a port city, Qingdao also imports flavors from all over. Korean food—especially barbecue—is easy to find, as is Japanese (with lots of creative sushi). European food abounds, too, with excellent Italian and French restaurants and German pub food as well.
Other regions of China are also well represented, especially spicier fare from Sichuan. A decent-sized Muslim population provides a fleet of kebab vendors; they're on every corner and they're generally outstanding. If you're not into fish, the Muslim restaurants provide great Xinjiang cuisine with lots of meaty alternatives—beef and lamb—and their famous wheat noodles and flatbreads are the furthest thing from fishy.
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Getting Around
The base rate for taxis is RMB 9 for standard cabs and RMB 12 for some larger size ones, both with a RMB 1 petrol surcharge. Travelling to or from the airport incurs an additional RMB 10 fee for the Qingyin Expressway. Taxis can be hard to flag down during peak season. Be forewarned that Qingdao has created many one-way streets with the hopes of improving traffic efficiency; this may make it seem that your cab driver is intentionally taking a circuitous route, but chances are he or she is not actually rying to rip you off by taking the long way.
Bus
Public buses in Qingdao are very clean and cheap, and though certainly easier for foreigners with good Chinese language skills to navigate, there are some of useful routes that are also accessible to non-Chinese speakers. Bus Nos. 11, 26, 228 and 501 will get you to the beach from the railway station via the Donghai Xi Lu coast road. Bus No. 501 runs from the train station past Zhongshan Park and along Xianggang Zhong Lu. No. 221 connects the Long-distance Bus Station and the old city and No. 366 serves the CBD. Bus. No. 5 runs to the north Long-distance Bus Station. All city buses cost RMB 1 (no air-con) and RMB 2 (air-con).
There are also three tour bus lines offering professional guide service. A good one to know is tour bus 304, which runs along the shore between the ferry pier and Lao Shan with a stop at the train station.
Ferry
Sightseeing boats to nearby sites like Xiao Qingdao, Luxun Park, and Taiping Jiao can be found at the Maritime Tour Pier on Laiyang Lu just north of the Navy Museum. Boats that leave from Zhongyuan Maritime Square Tour Pier on Xilingxia Lu include overview shoreline tours of the city and also trips to Zhucha and Dagong Islands.
Ferries also connect downtown Qingdao with Huangdao District across Jiaozhou Bay. The trip, which along the highway takes well over an hour, is only 20 minutes long. Be aware that ferries will not run in heavy fog.
To and from Qingdao
Air
Qingdao Liuting International Airport is about 32 km from downtown, with daily Qingdao flights to more than 30 cities in China. It's also possible to fly internationally to Tokyo and Fukuoka in Japan, and also Seoul and Singapore.
Train
Qingdao Railway Station is located on No. 2 Tai'an Lu (Tài'ān Lù, 泰安路), nearby Zhanqiao Bridge. There are trains to and from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Jinan, Tai Shan, Xi'an, Lanzhou and Wuchang. Most long-distance trains stop in Jinan.
(Qingdao Railway Station information: 0532 601 1111: Reservations: 0532-296 2777)
Bus
Highways leave Qingdao in every direction (at least where there's land) and long-distance buses serve all the major cities of Shandong Province as well as many cities in neighboring areas from several bus stations throughout the city.
Ferry
Qingdao Passenger Ferry Terminal is located at No. 6 Xinjiang Lu with international ferries running twice weekly to Incheon, Korea (Weidong Ferries) and Shimonoseki, Japan (Orient Ferries).
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Qingdao, a huge port city with an abundance of natural resources just offshore and within a few hours' journey inland, has much to offer the shopper. From antiques or the latest innovations in electronics to delicate folk-art shell carvings, sparkling Laoshan mineral water, authentic designer-label clothes to genuine knock-offs, Qingdao has it all. The question is: Where to start?
Many head to Zhong Shan Lu for its small family shops and boutiques, and tourist-friendly souvenir shops. Longshan Underground Market (Lóngshān Dìxià Shāngyè Jiē, 龙山地下商业街) branches off from Zhong Shan Lu beneath Xinhaoshan Park and is a good place to find clothing of all sorts.
If you're looking for fakes and cheap deals, try the Jimo Lu market toward the end of Zhong Shan Lu. For local handicrafts and antiques, the Culture Market near the Tsingtao Brewery in Tai Dong is a great place to pick up some unique souvenirs, from folk art to antiques (do be careful of paying full price for a well-crafted fake and always bargain hard). Of specific local interest are shell carvings, with shells being used to decorate wall hangings, accessories and all sorts of souvenirs.
Qingdao prides itself on the purity of its water (something that's becoming a rare commodity elsewhere in China), especially that which flows from Laoshan's famous spring. In addition to being used for brewed for Tsingtao, it is used to both nourish and brew Laoshan tea. Pick up some leaves to bring home and sample a few cups while in town.
Qingdao's Korea Town is the next-best thing to a trip across the Yellow Sea to Korea itself, and along with great restaurants, you'll find Korean products galore.
The Taidong Lu Pedestrian Street provides another mixed-use shopping and entertainment area and makes for excellent window shopping and people-watching on a balmy summer evening.
Finally, as a fast-globalizing city, you'll find yourself with easy access to international chains, from Starbucks to Carrefour, as well as rival regional names such as the Taiwanese Parksons Department Stores.
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Qingdao will keep you busy all day and all night if you want. A large expat community supports a surprising number of bars and nightclubs, which should help you unwind from a long day of lounging on the beach, trekking up a mountain or taking in a few museums.
Bars & Clubs
The nightlife in Qingdao clusters around the "Central" part of town—the newer business district in the east. Shangri-La Lobby Lounge and Club New York have live music and curiosity might force you to check out the Beatles-themed Lennon Bar, pasted with paraphernalia. The best place to find out about Qingdao's daytime and nocturnal happenings is to pick up a copy of the English-language city-mag My Red Star or Qingdao community website Qingdaonese.
Museums & Galleries
The sea itself is a kind of museum (and art gallery for that matter), but to see the ocean bottled up and on display you can head to the Museum of Marine Products (it sounds like a seafood restaurant and it kind of looks like one, too, with tanks full of edible exhibits) or Qingdao Underwater World. The Navy Museum features some rusty boats with some interesting history and a tour of Tsingtao Brewery Museum offers free beer and a commemorative mug (if you pay the RMB 50 entrance fee).
Festivals
The Qingdao Beer Festival (usually held in August) is one of Qingdao's claims to fame. It's usually two weeks long and features lots of drinking in tents and musical performances (by you if you're into K-TV). Tsingtao flows freely, but international beers are represented as well. Sampling and drinking competitions are highlights, but the whole thing is really your chance to see China's beer-drinking culture at its best/worst. The festival attracts visitors from all over China and beyond so be sure to book your Qingdao accommodation well in advance.
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