As far as endorsements go, "number one under heaven" isn't bad. And no, it's not Dashan or Yao Ming selling Chinese microwaves, it's the considered judgment of centuries of Chinese culture regarding the "rivers and mountains" of Guilin. If you're at all familiar with classical Chinese landscape painting, you've seen the landscape around this Li River town and its downriver neighbor, Yangshuo: fantastic limestone formations towering above placid waters and green rice paddies.
Guilin is also number one on a lot of tour itineraries, and the town and surrounding countryside are often quite crowded. So, if you're hoping to experience the area's magnificent scenery as something other than a backdrop for giddy shutterbug tour groups, you might need to get out of town and into more remote countryside. On the other hand, if you don't mind a traditionally Chinese "hot and noisy" crowd, there are numerous boat tours down river to Yangshuo.
In Guilin itself you'll find ample accommodation and dining options; pleasant paths along the river or the city's twin lakes, Rong Hu and Shan Hu; grottoes in Fubo Shan (Wave Subduing Hill) adorned with ancient Buddhist carvings; the Ming-era Jinjiang Prince's Palace and a slew of other attractions, including the 800-year-old carved inscription on the karst peak Duxiu Feng (Solitary Beauty Peak), attributed to Guilin's original booster, governor Wan Zhengong: "Guilin's rivers and mountains are number one under heaven." Do believe the hype.
History
First settled in 314 BC, Guilin was a self-governed community until 111 BC. City establishment began during the Han Dynasty under the Emperor Wu (140 BC-87 BC).
From the 7th to 13th centuries under the Tang and Song Dynasties the city acted as buffer zone between the Chinese heartlands and the southwestern border regions. Successive rulers garrisoned armies in the area and developed a network of canals to facilitate the distribution of food and supplies to the area below the Yangzi River.
In subsequent years, Guilin's relative remoteness gave it a measure of autonomy in its role as capital of Guangxi. As China began to industrialize in the twentieth century, Guilin found economic success in the manufacture of chemicals, paper and agricultural equipment. In 1925 Chinese nationalist hero Sun Yatsen launched the "Northern Expedition" from Guilin; in subsequent years, the city became home to more than one million refugees as the Japanese advanced against Chinese troops. Tragically, Guilin was not safe from Japanese air power and was nearly leveled in a series of bombing raids.
Guilin was rebuilt following the Communist victory in 1949, albeit along bluntly utilitarian lines, resulting in a rather unattractive cityscape. Still, the city's many parks and bridges keep it beautiful, and recent decades have seen an increased interest in preservation and rehabilitation of traditional architecture—in 1981 China named Guilin as one of four cities (alongside Beijing, Hangzhou and Suzhou) whose cultural history, heritage and environment would be preserved and protected by the government.
Climate
The best time of year to be in Guilin is between April and October. The subtropical climate makes for rain and humidity year round; summers are generally the wettest and lushest. Summers are also usually quite hot (averaging 28°C (83°F)). Expect frequent afternoon showers. Winter brings moderate temperatures (8°C (46°F)) and rain. Towards the end of the spring, through summer and into early fall are when Guilin is at its greenest and when the Li River waters run their highest and clearest. Keep in mind when exploring the area that heavy rains can fall at any time, causing flash flooding and loosening soil, making things slippery and unstable.
Guilin has a collection of luxury lodging, budget hotels and everything in between. Many hotels offer stunning views of the Li River and Elephant Trunk Hill within anyone's price range from the first-class Lijiang Waterfall Guilin to the budget, but highly recommended Golden Elephant Hotel. Many of Guilin's best restaurants can be found in hotels such as the city's best dim sum buffet in the Tailian Hotel or a light dinner from the Western- style cafe in the Sheraton Guilin.
Guilin is famous for their use of chili, garlic and sweet sauces in their cuisine. For breakfast most of the locals feast on Guilin noodles, a smooth, soft, bright white noodle made from rice. A favorite protein among the locals is horse meat (marou) which is frequently added to noodle dishes, rice, or eaten on its own in a spicy sauce or barbequed. Fresh water fish, seafood and snake from the Li River often appears in Guilin's local cuisine. Steamed Mandarin fish and stewed fresh water clams are very popular dishes. A new and highly regarded restaurant serving delicious local cuisine at reasonable prices is Taste Made Restaurant (Wei Dao Zhi Zao). Check out our growing list of restaurant recommendations in Guilin and read other's comments or add your own.
Getting Around
Guilin is a large enough city that it has great public transportation, but it's also small enough that you can rely on your feet a lot of the time to get you places. Check out our growing section of opinions and remarks regarding transportation in Guilin.
Bus
Buses in Guilin are, for the most part, clean and safe and cheap, cheap, cheap! Buses stopping at local tourist attractions usually start with a 5 and all of these buses are free. Any other bus ride should not cost more than 5 RMB.
Taxi
Taxis run 24 hours a day and are cheaper in Guilin than most other Chinese cities. The flat rate is 7 RMB.
Bike
Bikes are a popular method of transportation in Guilin and if you're comfortable with them, it's a great way to get around. Many hotels and shops in town will rent tourists bikes with a 200 RMB deposit and a photocopy of your passport. Bikes usually cost between 10-20 RMB to rent each day.
Boat
A trip to Guilin would not be complete without a boat ride on the Li River. Boats leave from the Golden Elephant hotel and cost nearly 500 RMB per person for an English tour but just 180 RMB for the same day trip in Chinese.
To and from Guilin
Air
Guilin's Liangjian International Airport has dozens of daily flights both international and domestic. Flights to and from Hong Kong, Japan, Korea, Macau and Thailand arrive in and depart from Guilin on a weekly basis and usually cost around 3,000 RMB for a one way ticket. There are several flights to and from Beijing, Chengdu, Kunming, Shanghai, Xi'an and many other Chinese cities daily ranging in price from 500 RMB to 1,600 RMB. The airport is about 30 km (18 miles) from Guilin's city center which takes about 40 minutes by taxi. There is also an airport shuttle available which takes about one hour and costs 20 RMB.
Train
Travel by railway to and from Guilin can be a little tricky but is far less expensive than traveling by plane. There is an international train from Beijing to Hanoi that passes through Guilin's Xianggui Railway station twice weekly. There are several direct trains from Beijing, Shanghai and Kunming each week which all take around 25 hours and cost between 250 - 450 RMB.
Guilin produces a plethora of handicrafts and textiles that are distributed all over southwestern China. Stroll around the city's alleyways and side streets and you're sure to bump into a number of workshops and artists working away at their craft. You might be able to buy directly from some of these make-shift studios but the Guilin International Commodity Market has an enormous display of souvenirs. If you're more in the market for clothing and electronics, check out Zhongshan Lu. This street has a large selection of department stores and shops selling mostly knock-offs. The stalls at Yangshuo sell inexpensive handicrafts and jewelry as well as osmanthus tea (guicha) and osmanthus wine (guijiu), the smells and tastes of which will remind you of your stay in Guilin. It is important to keep in mind that tourism is a large part of this city's economy and locals are notorious for ripping-off foreign visitors. Keep this in mind while shopping and don't be afraid to bargain. Check out further listings and recommendations on shopping in Guilin shopping list.
Situated on the scenic Li River amid the distinctive towering green karst peaks made famous by centuries of Chinese landscape paintings, Guilin is best for outdoors activities on and around the river. After a day of exploring the natural wonders surrounding the city, there are also plenty of things to do in town for fun and entertainment.
Bars & Clubs
As the sun sets, Guilin takes on an elegant charm, with city lights reflecting on the water beneath the karst peaks looming in the distance. Take advantage of the view from the water by boarding the Li River Yinzuo Ferry, an evening boat with ballroom dancing, a bar and karaoke. If terra firma better suits your mood, try the Mengbi Karaoke Nightclub for late-night dancing. The Guilin Bravo Hotel Reed Flute Cowboy Bar's dark, bone-decorated bar and good wine selection, darts and billiards make it a great place for a relaxed night out. The Ragazza Pub is a quieter—and somewhat pricey—place to enjoy a cocktail.
Performing Arts
There are a number of entertaining shows put on for tourists that present packaged versions of the region's minority cultural traditions. Impression—a song and dance revue featuring some 600 performers—takes place at what is billed as the world's largest natural theater, situated on the Li River with a backdrop of some dozen nearby karst peaks. Enjoy a view of the water and ethnic dancing at the Li River Ethnic Night Performance at Guilin's water pavilion. The concert shows off the intricate and colorful designs of the local minority groups and traditional dance and song.
Museums & Galleries
The Guilin Museum is home to over 20,000 artifacts, with an excellent collection of Ming and Qing Dynasty porcelain and regional minority arts and crafts. The Guilin Art Museum specializes in classical Chinese art, though it also hosts modern and contemporary exhibitions. Local arts, crafts and paintings can be found in various shops and galleries around town as well as at the Artists Gallery on the second floor of the Guilin Art Museum. For fans of contemporary sculpture, or just for the curious who want to see unique art and architecture in an unmatched natural setting, Yuzi Paradise, an "art park" located some 30 km outside of Guilin city and halfway to Yangshuo, is home to a growing number of large, often fanciful sculptures by artists from all over the world.
Festivals & Events
The variety of ethnic minorities living in and around Guilin—the Zhuang, Yao, Hui, Miao and Dong all call the region home—means that no matter the season, there's probably a festival on somewhere in town or nearby. In addition to witnessing local takes on national holidays like the Lantern Festival and Dragon Boat Festival, visitors can enjoy unique folk festivals such as the March Third Festival, which features traditional Zhuang song and dance; the colorful Miao New Year Festival; the Dong Fireworks Festival, which features Dong opera as well as three days of celebratory explosions (held at different times of year determined by the Chinese zodiac); and the March Longsheng Red Clothes Festival celebrated by Hong Yao people. Note that many of these festivals take place in villages outside of Guilin city proper, providing excellent opportunities to explore the surrounding landscape and hobnob with the hospitable locals.