China Daily has called Dalian "China's most livable city," and though the state paper may print much that one would be well advised to take with a grain of salt, in this case they're right on the money. In a country where breakneck economic growth all too often seems to result in heavy-duty environmental degradation, Dalian shines as an exception. That's not to say it doesn't share in China's industrial growth, but it has managed to balance city planning, green space and economic development in a way that has eluded other cities of simliar size.

Known for its beaches, mountains and pleasant summertime climate, Dalian is a popular resort destination, and its allure is enhanced by its cosmopolitan nature: The city is known for its Russian, Japanese and Korean influences, which extend from the layout of the the streets to the availablity of kimchi and borscht in the city's restaurants.

Dalian highlights include fresh seafood, sunbathing and swimming at Fujjiazhuang Beach and other popular beaches, hiking to Yaowoling Pagoda with its stunning coastal views, a day trip to Daheishi to see its hundreds of of white Buddhas and a visit to the Thousand Hands Buddha of Mercy, the largest bronze statue of Buddha in China, perched on a mountain top.

History

Over the years, Dalian's strategic Yellow Sea port location has been a mixed blessing. It's made it one of China's most prosperous cities as well as a battleground for warring nations scrapping for control of the resource-rich region. 

After having grown into a modest port with light defenses and a small mining industry during the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the city gained in strategic importance with the British occupation from 1858 to mid 1880s, which was followed by a period of Japanese rule following the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895). 

Later, the Russian Empire leased the city they called Dalny from the Qing, using the port to give them access to the Pacific via a connection with the Trans-Siberian railroad. Russian control in turn gave way to the Japanese, who retook the territory that included Dalny and Port Arthur (today known as Lushun)following fierce battles during the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905).

The Japanese remained in control until the end of World War II, when the Soviet Union took over. Cooperation between the Chinese Communists and the Soviets saw Dalian develop into a modern port, with the Chinese regaining full control in 1950 in a peaceful transition, providing the fledgling PRC with a valuable industrial port in the first full year of its existence. 

After the national economic downturn that accompanied the chaos of the Cultural Revolution, China began building up Dalian's ship building and oil industries. In 1978, Dalian was declared a Special Economic Zone with an open-door trade policy, attracting a stream of investment from overseas and strengthening the port's trade relations with over 140 countries.

Today, Dalian has benefited from a balanced development approach that hasn't sacrificed too much green space for industry, helping seal its reputation as one of China's most pleasant coastal cities.

Climate

Dalian is at its best between April and October. August is its hottest month, with daily average temperatures rarely falling below 24º C (75º F) and highs that reach 35º C (95º F). January is the coldest, averaging -5º C (23º F) with lows as cold as -24º C (-11º F). The peninsular city is consistently breezy to windy, with the ocean air keeping the air moist and fresh. About 60 to 70% of the annual rainfall occurs during summer rainstorms, with spring and summer often suffering from prolonged dry spells.

Dalian is a popular domestic vacation destination so there are plenty of hotels, though it can be a challenge to find budget accommodation, especially during the high season and holidays. One recommended budget hotel, the Dalian Fandian, offers simple doubles for 120 RMB. For five-star glitz, the Furama Hotel (600 RMB/night) is a top choice., with the recently completed Kempinski Hotel Dalian providing stiff competition. And  for some old-school glam and marble, try the Dalian Binguan (500-600 RMB/night). Popular midrange accommodations include the Dalian Bohai Fandian, Foreign Experts Hotel and the Huayu Pearl Hotel.

Dalian is famous for the freshness of its seafood and fruit, so sit back and eat scallops. And as seafood is the main content of Dalian cuisine, many of the restaurants will have aquariums where you can choose the lucky victim for your plate. The city has a bit of everything from pizza joints, little cafes to strip-mall food courts, curry houses. If you are dining on a budget, the cheaper places are up on Youhao Lu. The New Market Shopping Mall has an enormous food court where you can eat to your heart's content on dishes ranging in price between 4-9 RMB. For good and modestly priced seafood, try Tian Tian Yu Gang.

Although seafood can be found in most downtown restaurants, your best bet is the seafront or the pricey hotels. One of the nicest restaurants on the seafront is the New Orient Seafood City, which serves possibly the best crab cooked by chefs from the popular Cantonese food chain, Bifengtang.

For those not after seafood, Tianjin Street (Tianjin Jie) is dotted with stalls and restaurants serving the usual Chinese fare, and also the local Dalian fried dumplings and pancakes. The Donglaishun Restaurant on Changchun Lu also sell good hotpot dishes for cheap.

For Western food, head for the Greenery Beerhouse on Renmin Lu. If you are just craving a thick slab of cheesy pizza, Pizza King Italian Restaurant will get you a good pie for around 40 RMB. And if you have a taste for the unusual Jinshan Restaurant serves mainly turtle or snake, apparently good for health. Don't forget to try the local fruits, including apples, pears and cherries.

Local Specialities

Raw Sea Urchin:
Cut it in two equal parts. Eat it with a spoon. Dip in mustard. The spines might still be trembling, but don't let this scare you off. While it may not look dead, it is. 

Sea Cucumber:
Admittedly, these things resemble something that you would never eat, but why not give it a shot in soup or raw.

Barbecues:
Barbecue restaurants are a favorite with the locals. Wusi Lu is a street dotted with them and just like back home, the best way to wash down barbecued meat, fish and shrimp is with cold beer.
 

Getting Around

Taxi

The base rate for taxis is 8 RMB during the day for the first 3 kilometers and then 2 RMB for each additional kilometer. From 10:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m. the base rate is 10.4 RMB. Dalian is not a very big city; therefore you generally won't spend more than 20 RMB traveling within the city.

Light Rail

As of 2007, there is only one light rail line in Dalian running between Dalian Railway Station in the east and the national tourist spot Jinshitan in the west. With a full length of about 49.15 km, this line has 12 stops, nearly all of which are popular destinations in Dalian. Running through Zhongshan District, Xigang District, Shahekou District, Ganjinzi District and the Development Zone, the light rail starts at 6:30 a.m. and the last one runs between 7:50 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. (depending on the season) at an interval of every 20 minutes (10 minutes during rush hours).

To and from Dalian

Air

Dalian Zhoushuizi International Airport is about 10 km from downtown, only around 10 minutes drive by taxi. Airport buses run between Civil Aviation Mansion (No. 143 Zhongshan Lu, Xigang District) and the airport regularly at RMB 5. There are flights to and from nearly all the major cities within China like Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Guangzhou, Kunming, Hong Kong etc. International flights to and from Tokyo, Hiroshima, Munich, Seoul, Los Angeles, Vancouver, London, Paris, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Sydney and Frankfurt are also available.

Note: The taxis of the airport are all in line at the far right of the entrance of the airport.

Train

Located at Qingniwa Qiao in the downtown area, Dalian Railway Station is the terminal station of the Hada railway line. Connected with northeastern and northern China railway networks, there are more than 50 tour trains from and to Beijing, Shenyang, and Harbin daily at Dalian Railway Station.

Bus

Shenda Highway, the first highway built on the Chinese mainland runs through Liaotong Peninsular, connecting Shenyang, Liaoyang, Anshan, Yingkou and Dalian. Huanghai Dadao Highway (from Dalian to Dandong) has already extended to Zhuanghe City in the southeast of Liaodong Peninsular. National Highway 201 and 202 both start from Dalian and there are five main long-distance bus stations in Dalian City.

Ferry

As the most important harbor city in the northeast of China, the ferry transportation system of Dalian Harbor is relatively developed. There are regular ferries from and to Yantai, Weihai, Penglai, Qinhuangdao, Tianjin and Changhai County. Express tour boats also run between Dalian and Yantai, Qinghuangdao, Changhai County, and even Inchon in Korea. 

Dalian Harbor Passenger Terminal is at the northern end of Wuwu Lu, in the east of the city. The harbor covers a large area and there are even buses transporting passengers from the waiting room to the pier. You should arrive at the waiting room half an hour before departure.

Dalian is a thriving modern city and as such, the shopping here is of high standard. For antiques or gifts, handicrafts, glassware, embroidery work and shell carving can all be found and are popular with the locals and visitors. Most of these goods, and more besides, can be found on Tianjin Street (Tianjin Jie), just off Youhao Square.

Dalian is also a fashion Mecca, the craze for the newest and most trendy styles culminate in the International Fashion Festival that annually arrives in town. Besides the impressive array of Versace and Gucci, the festival is also a celebration of traditional Chinese clothing, and an assortment of garments, including qi pao and some nice silk clothing, can be purchased.

Head to the markets and stock up on fresh seafood and fruit from the local area. Or if you fancy a nice strip mall, check out New-Mart Shopping Mall that is popular with the young fashionistas of Dalian. The Friendship Shopping Centre can be a bit pricey, but the quality of goods is high. There is also an underground mall beneath Victory Square. The area also contains some interesting trilobite fossils, which can be bought on the way to the Jinshitan Scenic Area for around RMB 10.
 

Dalian's green spaces and clean air are conducive to a number of festivals, as well as popular tourist-orientated activities including zoos, aquariums and water parks.

Festivals

No matter what when you visit something is bound to be happening in Dalian. Fireworks displays take place on Chinese New Year, May 1 and October 1. The Lotus Flower Festival, Walking Festival and International Marathon all take place in June, with the Dalian International Beer Festival bridging July and August. August also sees the Dalian International Auto Show, with the Dalian International Fashion Week brightening up September.

Bars and Clubs

Dalian's nightlife is still a bit sleepy compared to that of Beijing or Shanghai, but there's plenty to keep one entertained well into the evening, especially in the vicinity of Friendship Square, Qiqi Jie and Yan'an Lu, where are a number of clubs, cafes and bars. 

Live Music

South of People's Square, Noah's Ark is a good place to hear local bands.