Dali (Dàlǐ, 大理) welcomes travelers with laidback cafés, friendly guesthouses and easy access to beautiful countryside. This historic town, scenically situated at the foot of the Cang Shan (Cang Mountain) and overlooking Erhai Lake, is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Yunnan.
Most of Dali's attractions can easily be explored by bike, and good food and cheap drinks await at the end of each day on Huguo Lu (Hùguó Lù, 护国路). It's not all traditional charm and romantic views, however. There's the inevitable recent modern Chinese architecture of questionable aesthetic value and other incursions of functional but less-than-attractive modernity, but its residents manage to maintain the outsider feel that has made Dali a key stopover for backpackers in China in spite of the encroachment of the modern world.
On a lighter note, a number of low-key Amsterdam-style "coffee shops" have sprung up like mushrooms, causing some visiting backpackers to extend their stays in order to fully absorb Dali's sunny weather, friendly vibes, pretty sunsets and repeat plays of Bob Marley and Manu Chao tracks. And, of course, Dali's popularity comes at the price: the high season finds the city crowded with tour groups, backpackers and trinket-hawking vendors.
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History
The character and history of Dali derives from the region's main residents, the Bai people. The Bai, today numbering over a million, first populated the area over 3,000 years ago. During the 8th and 9th centuries, they established Dali as the capital of the Bai Kingdom of Nanzhao after defeating a Tang Dynasty army to gain complete control over Yunnan. The 500-year rule of the Nanzhao Kingdom marks an important time of trade, commerce and the arts in Dali.
Several of the city's most fascinating attractions, including the Three Pagodas and the Grottoes at Shibao Mountain are a result of this period. Today, the tiny city is home to Bai as well as Han Chinese. Much of the old city remains, in the form of the original city gates and walls, cobblestone streets and traditional stone buildings.
Climate
Most days in Dali are pleasant and warm. Temperatures rarely fall below 4ºC (39ºF) in the winter and summer days peak at 25ºC (77ºF). Travelers should pack some warm clothes for cooler evenings. Seasonal monsoons bring more rain to the area from May to October.
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Backpackers have been relaxing here for years, and there is a wide range of cheap accommodations in Dali for budget travelers. A half-hour stroll takes you across town, so location is not an issue, but during summer months you might find yourself hotfooting around town trying to find an available bed. Budget guesthouse services include bike rental, tours and Internet cafés while the few star-rated hotels provide larger rooms and nicer bathrooms.
The best Dali has to offer includes backpacker havens like Jim's Tibetan Guesthouse, Friends Guesthouse, No 3 Guesthouse, MCA Guesthouse, and Old Dali Four Seasons Inn. Find travel advice, meet friends and eat the city's famed banana pancakes at these foreign-friendly inns.
Xiaguan (Xiàguān, 下关), also known as Dali City (which confuses many travelers), is 18 km (11 mi) south of Dali. This larger city does not have many attractions but does offer more star-rated accommodation than Dali, such as the four-star Manwan Hotel, the Jinda Hotel and the 3-star Xiaguan Hotel. More hotels line Jianshe Lu (Jiànshè Lù, 建设路), Xiaguan's main drag.
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Dali has a glut of restaurants—so many have opened in the last few years that they all now suffer the pains of competition. And however good the local cuisine may be, many backpackers gravitate toward the town's Western-style cafés. A number of these charming—and sometimes cheesy—places line streets like Huguo Lu (Hùguó Lù, 护国路), also known as "Foreigner's Street". Huguo Lu establishments serve Western, Yunnan, Bai and Chinese dishes. Travelers recommend the vegetarian food at Buddha's Abode, the burritos and burgers at Café de Jack and the banana pancakes at the Old Wooden House, as well as the Sunshine Café, Salvador's Coffee House and Claire's Café.
Food is not the only draw to Huguo Lu, and many visitors just soak up the colorful atmosphere with a cup of tea or a beer. The Bai people pride themselves on several unique and tasty dishes. Try the local cuisine at the Bailixiang Restaurant, Jingjing Snack House or any number of other Bai establishments around town. Be sure to try a few of the following specialties: Dali Earthenware Pot Fish (Dàlǐ shāguō yú, 大理沙锅鱼) a popular and hearty Bai dish made with magnolia petals, mushrooms, and slices of ham, pork and chicken. The Dali version stars salted Er Hai lake carp, often complemented by bean curd, carrot slices and cabbage. The verdant pastures surrounding Dali produce rich and wonderful milk. Try Dengchuan Milk Fan (Dèngchuān Rǔshàn, 邓川乳扇), a popular congealed yogurt-milk mix that can be fried or used to accent other dishes. For good non-Bai Chinese food at reasonable prices, try the Apricot Flower Restaurant.
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Getting Around
Dali is a small, compact city which makes travel around the area easy and quick. Renting a bicycle is a great way to get around the city, but taxis are readily available as well. There are nearby shops and many hotels offering bicycles for rent. If you intend to visit Erhai Lake, traveling by boat is a must. Boats leave from Erhai Port which is just north of the city—be sure to make a reservation at least one day in advance.
To and from Dali
Air
Dali Airport is located in between Fengyi Town and Haidong Town, 12 km (7 mi) from Dali's downtown. The airport has flights to and from Kunming, Xishuangbanna and Guangzhou. Flights to destinations within Yunnan usually take less than an hour.
Train
Trains travel only within Yunnan. It takes six to eight hours from Kunming to Dali by train.
Bus
Buses are the major form of transportation in Dali as two national highways meet here. There are three long-distance bus stations on Jianshe Lu (Jiànshè Lù, 建设路) in Xiaguan (Xiàguān, 下关), Dali. Dali Bus Station (Dàlǐ Kèyùn Zǒngzhàn, 大理客运总站), the biggest bus station, runs express buses to neighboring cities in Yunnan. Passenger Transport Station (Kèyùn Fúwù Zhàn, 客运服务站), the second largest one is near the Dali Bus Station. Buses in Xiaguan North Bus Station (Xiàguān Kèyùn Běi Zhàn, 下关客运北站) also depart to Lijiang and Zhongdian in Yunnan. Tickets to Lijiang and Zhongdian are available in travel agencies, bars and inns on Huguo Lu (Hùguó Lù, 护国路) and Fuxing Lu (Fùxīng Lù, 复兴路).
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Huguo Lu (Hùguó Lù, 护国路), Renmin Lu (Rénmín Lù, 人民路) and Bo'ai Lu (Bó'ài Lù, 博爱路) are lined with Bai women selling jewelry, marble, fabrics and Communist kitsch. Dali is known for its marble craftsmanship, and while hauling around marble may sound ball-and-chain, the variety and size of the wares might at least tempt you. When buying marble from street sellers pay 50% or less of the asking price.
The city is also famous for its blue-and-white batik printed on cotton and silk and for its abundance of clothing shops. Most shopkeepers along Huguo Lu make clothes tailored to your size for a bargain.
Most of the supposedly silver jewelry is actually brass, so be warned. The same goes for jade—though sold in abundance, it's generally low quality, so buyer beware.
Fuxing Lu (Fùxīng Lù, 复兴路) caters to the needs of Chinese tourists with an array of local teas and specialty foods. Try some local tuo tea (tuó chá, 沱茶), a type of pu'er tea which has a slightly bitter taste. Bargain hard and don't be afraid to walk away. Vendors will usually drop prices at the last minute.
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Dali is an established backpacker mecca and as such is home to a number of decent coffee shops, pizza joints and pubs. Though there's not much in the way of major cultural events in Dali, there are a number of Bai performances and festivals worth checking out, especially in the old town at night.
Let us know about your Dali experience in our comments section, where you can also find out what other travelers have to say.
Bars & Clubs
The bars and cafés on Huguo Lu (Hùguó Lù, 护国路) are chock-a-block with foreign and Chinese travelers well into the night. Tibet Café, Sunshine Café, Old Wooden House and Dali Window on Bo'ai Lu (Bó'ài Lù, 博爱路) are good places knock back a cold one. Birdbar on Renmin Lu (Rénmín Lù, 人民路) has a decent pool table and fun atmosphere. Café de Jack on Bo'ai Lu often hosts live music in the evenings. Many of the "coffee shops" have a little bit of Amsterdam to them—it's not uncommon to come across travelers sampling the locally grown product (this may cause some to extend their stays while others may just feel annoyed by repeated pitches from Dali's weed peddlers). Note that marijuana is fully illegal in China and one tokes at one's own risk.
Performing Arts
Tourists can watch traditional Bai song and dance performances as part of most Dali package tours or pay a visit to the traditional Bai village of Xizhou, which is well worth the trip.
Festivals & Events
Most of the annual Bai festivals and gatherings take place during March and April. They're typically on the Chinese lunar calendar, so check local listings for exact dates. The Third Moon Fair (Sānyuè Jié, 三月节) features a festive atmosphere, performances, Bai arts and crafts and sports competitions. A little later, usually in May, the Three Temples Festival (Rào Sān Líng, 绕三灵) brings singing, dancing costumed crowds into Cang Mountain (Cang Shan) and to the shores of Erhai Lake. The Torch Festival (Huǒbǎ Jié, 火把节) takes place in July and features fireworks and dragon-boat racing.
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