Despite the fact that Chengdu's old wooden buildings and narrow streets have been largely replaced by skyscrapers and shopping malls, the city retains an easygoing Sichuan charm. It's a pleasure exploring its green parks, busy temples, bustling outdoor markets, open-air restaurants and jumbled side streets.

Rugged Sichuan has always been remote from the power centers in eastern China, and its distinct culture is a joy to experience. Try to catch a Sichuan opera performance, characterized by amazingly rapid "face changing" tricks, fire breathing and earthy humor. The region's natural beauty is not to be missed—take a trip into the nearby mountains and forests, home of the famous bamboo-munching giant pandas, some of which can be seen at the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base just outside of town.

For a taste of Sichuan culture, join the locals in a Chengdu teahouse. Don't rush it—the idea's not to grab a quick pick-me-up, but to unwind and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. Of course, Sichuan cuisine is famous the world over for its tongue-numbing pepper, fiery chili and steamy hot pot, making the province's capital a delicious place to be (those who don't care for spicy fare shouldn't worry—there are plenty of milder alternatives among Chengdu's restaurants).

History

The administrative seat of several ancient kingdoms, Chengdu has a 2,300-year history as an important center of study and trade. In the early fourth century BC, the ancient Shu state established a capital in today's Chengdu. The conquering Qin State (778-207 BC) enlarged the city, adding an impressive wall. During the Western Han Dynasty (206-225 BC), the city was called Jincheng (Brocade City) after its thriving silk brocade industry. Once the Han Dynasty fell, giving way to the bloody Three Kingdoms Period, Chengdu became capital of one of the Shu Han (Kingdom of Shu).

The city continued to develop as a regional center into the Tang (618-907 AD) and Song Dynasties (960-1279 AD) and is known for certain innovations—for example, paper money was first printed and used in Chengdu during the Song Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, it was home to China's best-known pair of poets, Du Fu and Li Bai, perhaps the most famous of many artists and writers who have lived and worked in Chengdu over the centuries.

During World War II, Chongqing, then a part of Sichuan, served as the Kuomintang fallback capital after the Japan's brutal seizure of the previous Nationalist capital of Nanjing. Thousands of Chinese officials, scientists, scholars and businesspeople came to Sichuan at that time, bringing a wave of industrial development. After 1945, the Communists rapidly beat back Nationalist forces throughout China, finally besieging Chengdu, where Chiang Kai Shek's army made its final stand before fleeing to Taiwan. The People's Liberation Army took the city on December 10, 1949, and with it, all of mainland China.

The surrounding Sichuan countryside suffered greatly during the Great Leap Forward (1958-1960), with many perishing of starvation, and Chengdu lost a number of historical monuments, buildings and artifacts during the tumultuous Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). In recent years, the city has come roaring back and now exists as a modern industrial metropolis of over 10 million inhabitants.

Climate

Chengdu experiences pleasant springs, hot and humid summers, cool autumns and temperate but damp winters (averaging 5 ºC/41 ºF). July and August can be uncomfortable, with temperatures reaching 35 ºC (95 ºF). In the heat of the summer, many locals seek relief in weekend mountain retreats or venture out after sunset to do business, shop and eat. Summer also sees periods of heavy rain. The best time to visit Chengdu is between March and June or between September and November when it's cooler and less rainy. One explanation for the locals' love of hot and spicy food is that the chilies and pepper help the body cope with the damp climate.

From the cheap and dingy to the deliciously plush and all in between, Chengdu has it all. Surprisingly enough, it's not too hard to find rooms in relatively luxurious hotels for very reasonable prices.

Many of the city's hotels are located on or around the North-south axis that is Renmin Lu. Getting around the city is fairly inexpensive so make a choice based on hotel facilities or price without worrying too much about transportation costs. 

There are also a number of hostels scattered about town that offer bargain prices for those on tight budgets. Not all hotels are certified to receive foreign guests, so don't be offended if you are rejected without explanation. 
 

Think Chengdu food and think hot and hotter. Chengdu's cuisine doesn't skimp on the local chilies, nor does it go light on mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns. Locals claim the sweat-inducing dishes cool the body in the summer and warm it in the winter and Chinese tradition says chili protects you from illnesses and infection—medicine never tasted so good. If you're not into the heat, there's plenty to eat that's gentle on the taste buds.

If you do like it spicy, be sure to try gongbao jiding, chicken and peanuts served with chili, and mapo doufu, spicy tofu with minced beef and dry chilies. Milder options include fish dishes, which is often served in a yuxiang sauce (a mix of vinegar, ginger, sesame and soy) or bangbang ji, cold chicken with sesame and soy sauce. Hotpot (huoguo), meat and vegetables cooked in boiling broth at your table can be had either mild or spicy.

Try Sichuan at the city's Chengdu Restaurant on Shandong Dajie, Longchaoshou Restaurant on Chunxi Lu, or Grandma Chen's Beancurd Restaurant (established in 1842, people say the first owner invented mapo doufu).

Distributed throughout the city, teahouses are more than places for drinking tea and snacking. They are places for relaxation and socializing and as such are a reflection of local life. Here you can enjoy such Chinese favorites such as jasmine, maofeng and zhuyeqing teas and, at a number of teahouses, catch Sichuan opera performances as well—Yuelai Teahouse stages free Sichuan opera performances from 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. every Tuesday and Saturday. Heming Teahouse in People's Park is a great place to sit outside, sip and people-watch. Wenshu Monastery Teahouse inside Wenshu Monastery has Buddhist vegetarian restaurant next door, Xiangzhai Tang.

Getting Around

Bikes, inexpensive buses, pedicabs and taxis have the city covered for you. Bus 16 runs from the north train station to the south train station, via People's Square. Bus 12 circles the city via Yihuan Lu. Rent bikes for around 10 RMB a day, plus 100 RMB deposit at the Traffic Hotel. The new sight-seeing bus routes 901 and 902 hit most of the city's tourist destinations and cost 10 RMB for five boardings, 3 RMB for one. The sightseeing bus departs New South Gate Tourist Distributing Center every 30 minutes from 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Look for the open-air double-deckers around town.

Uniformed pedicab driver rove the city. Interested parties need to bargain, rates start at 5 RMB. Tourists may also rent a private car to get around. Rates range from 650 RMB a day for a minibus and 700 RMB/day for a car. A driver comes for an additional 50 RMB/day (8 hours).

To and from Chengdu

Air

Shuangliu Airport, 18 km (11 miles) west of Chengdu, offers service to several domestic and international destinations. Regular destinations include Shanghai, Guangzhou, Beijing, Hong Kong and Dalian as well as frequent flights to Bangkok, Singapore, Seoul and Lhasa. Departing visitors from Chengdu can take a 20-minute shuttle bus (3 RMB) from the China Southwest Airlines office on Renmin Nan Lu. A taxi from the center of town to the airport costs around 30 RMB.

Train

Rail links Chengdu to a dozen some major Chinese cities including Beijing (8 hours), Shanghai (16 hours), Kunming (22 hours) and Xian (17 hours). Purchase tickets at the ticket booking office outside the railway station. Same-day tickets are scarce so make rail travel arrangements at least two days in advance. Some hotels arrange train tickets for guests. The railway station is in the north part of the city, a half-hour drive from the city center.

Bus

Buses offer easy access to most of the scenic spots around Chengdu including Yibing, Emei Shan, and Le Shan. The bus to Chongqing takes five hours. Three bus stations service Chengdu. The Xinnanmen bus station near the Traffic Hotel travels to most Southern, Western or Eastern destinations around Sichuan, the North Bus Station near the North Train Station offers frequent minibuses to Chongqing, and buses departing Ximen bus station head north to places like Jiuzhaigou and Songpan.

Moving on to Lhasa

Foreign travelers require an official permit to enter Tibet which can be purchased, along with the flight, at a travel agent. China Southwest Airlines currently offers the only Chengdu-Lhasa flight so tickets are limited. Tibet flights leave from Gonggar Airport, a two-hour drive from Chengdu. Land travel to Tibet is not allowed.

A gateway to Tibet and the start of the southern Silk Road, Chengdu remains a confluence of local and regional goods. Shop for of the city's famous Shu silk brocade, Qingcheng silk tapestry, bamboo wickerwork, and silver jewelry.

The Qingshiqiao Market, a street market next to the Jin Jiang and the Minshan Hotels offers some of the best souvenir shopping in the city. Visitors also browse the antiques market on Chaotang Bei Lu and the evening art galleries on Renmin Nan Lu. Don't forget to bargain.

The teahouse has long been the heart of cultural life in Chengdu—a place to relax, chat, play games, enjoy performances by local musicians and singers and, of course, linger over hot tea and light Sichuan fare. Today's Chengdu retains a healthy traditional teahouse culture and complements it with a growing nightlife scene and contemporary performance, art and exhibition spaces. Add a busy annual schedule of festivals and special events and there's plenty to do in Chengdu.

Clubs & Bars

The teahouse is the place to meet friends, play cards, people-watch, catch some Sichuan opera, chat or while a few hours away over a good book.

As for bars, Renmin Nan Lu, just north of the US Consulate, is home to a number of watering holes popular with expats and travelers, including the Shamrock Bar, Roo Bar and Carol's. Good bets for a taste of the local nightlife include Kakadu Disco on the first ring road, the Allen Café, Meigaomei Club, the KTV club Red Age (Hongse Shidai) or the bowling hall in Chengdu's National Hotel.

Performing Arts

Sichuan opera (chuanxi), which is actually practiced throughout Sichuan, Yunnan and Guizhou provinces, goes back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Performed in Sichuan dialect, this style of Chinese opera is best know for its astonishing bianlian or "face changing," in which actors deftly switch masks with a wave of the hand or turn of the head. It is also known for occasional fire-breathing and earthy humor. The action is physical enough and the costumes bright enough to make for a very entertaining experience even without a decent grasp of the language. Watch for the chou (clown), who plays a big role in most performances. You can catch Sichuan opera at the Sichuan Opera Theater, in the Shunxing Old Tea House, in Shufeng Square inside People's Park, in Shufeng Yayun Garden, in Culture Park and in other teahouses and small theaters around town.

Museums & Galleries

For insight into regional culture and history, head to the Sichuan University Museum. You can view ethnic minority Miao, Qiang and Yi handicrafts, Tibetan artifacts and examples of the exquisite silk pieces that have given Chengdu the name "Brocade City." The Three Kingdoms Culture Exhibition Hall, situated within Wuhou Temple (Wuhou Si), provides a fascinating glimpse into the history of the Three Kingdoms period of China's history in which Chengdu was capital of Shu Han (the Kingdom of Han). The Chengdu Museum of Modern Art hosts the Chengdu Biennale in even years, though at present a new museum complex is being built (call ahead to make sure it's open). The Giant Panda Breeding Research Center includes a panda museum. And don't forget exemplary Tang poet Du Fu's Cottage.

Festivals & Events

Chengdu is a great place for traditional celebrations. The Chengdu Lantern Show and Huanglongxi Fire Dragon Festival warm up late winter in the first weeks of the Chinese New Year. March, April and May see a series of festivals devoted to flora—welcome the arrival of spring at the Chengdu Flower Fair, Pengzhou Peony Festival or Chengdu International Peach Blossom Festival. You can bid summer farewell in at the Xindu Sweet-scented Osmanthus Festival during the Mid-Autumn Festival.