The megacity of Chongqing may not be tops on most itineraries, but this economic hotspot—millions have poured in from the countryside in recent years to get in on the boom times—is well worth the visit if you want to see what the "real China" is up to in the 21st century.
With well over 30 million inhabitants, Chongqing, one of China's four provincial-level municipalities (Beijing, Shanghai and Tianjin are the others) is all about building the prosperous and modern nation that generations of Chinese have aspired to. It can be a dirty, raucous affair—construction dust and noise are primary features of today's Chongqing landscape—but the hope and energy in the air can be almost as palpable as the strong smell of Chongqing's dominant spicy Sichuanese cuisine and diesel exhaust.
The "Mountain City" lies at the intersection of the Yangzi and Jialing rivers and, surprisingly for a city so far inland, is a major port, having long played the role of a transfer point for Sichuan's agricultural riches (and more recently its prodigious industrial output) en route downriver to eastern China. This has given rise to the city's notorious dockside culture—blamed for everything from swearing to the creation of hot pot—make for a lively spectacle.
Take a few hours to wander down to the Chaotianmen Docks for some street noodles and to take in the colorful comings and goings along the wide river's banks, crowded with massive cargo vessels. Climb back up the steep hills—or cheat and head up on the funicular rail—and explore the remaining parts of Ciqukou Ancient Town with its narrow streets and picturesque buildings (wartime bombing and recent construction have left little of Old Chongqing). There are plenty of attractions in and around Chongqing's urban core, but it seems you always come back to the Yangzi, which provides the best way to move on from Chongqing, via a cruise down to the Three Gorges.
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History
Now home to a population of over 2 million, stone tools excavated in the area provide evidence of human settlement in Chongqing since 1000 BC. Once called "Gongzhou", the city was renamed "Chongqing" in 1190 by Emperor Zhaodan (which means "double happiness"). Double happiness has hardly defined Chongqing's long tradition of being a stronghold against hostile powers—from a 36 year long defense against invading Mongols to the Japanese invasion.
Once part of Sichuan province, industrialization began in 1928 when Chongqing opened as a treaty port. But it was not until after 1938 when Chongqing became China's war time capital that the city really took off economically. In the present day, the city is deeply influenced by its relationship and proximity to the Three Gorges Dam both for tourism and the inexpensive electricity provided by the dam. Cruising up the Three Gorges is high on the tourist hit list for visitors to China. The city is famous for its heavy fog which was used as a tool of protection during World War II. Due to the great amounts of coal burning without any controls on pollution, air pollution is a large problem.
Climate
Chongqing has a semi-tropical climate with two-seasonal monsoon variations. Compared to other parts of China, Chongqing's climate is relatively mild with an annual average temperature of 18°C. Nearly 1200 total hours of sunshine and roughly 45 inches of rain are seen each year. The summers are uncomfortably hot, humid and sticky.
Chongqing doesn't have a whole lot of budget accommodation, but during the winter months, prices become a bit more reasonable. Most prices are midrange to high-end and found in the eastern Jiefangbei and Chaotianmen. That being said, you can still find a cheap dorm bed if you are willing to look and stick your head down a few dingy alleyways.
Prices for a night's accommodation range from RMB 50 for a dorm up to 1,200 RMB for a plush room at the JW Marriott. You can sleep in value-for-yuan dorm at Huixianlou Binguan with dorms (50 RMB) with cramped singles (240 RMB) and doubles (300 RMB) are also available. Luohan Si is very basic, but offers cheap dorms for 50 RMB.
The Railway Guesthouse located at the train station has ensuite rooms for 160 RMB. The Grand's rooms start at 150 RMB. Home Inn on Nanjimen has English speaking staff and doubles including breakfast for 280 RMB. And of course, if budget is not an issue, there is always the Holiday Inn, the Hilton, the Harbour Plaza.
Chongqing claims to be the home of hot pot (huoguo). The fun of hot pot is you can select from a number of different soup bases from spicy to almost a chicken noodle broth. Then you choose a number of dipping sauces and finally the meats and vegetables to throw into the pot that you cook at your own pace, similar in a way to fondue. Hot pot originated as the food of poor boatman who needed the warmth of the broth and the substance of tripe. So if you fancy trying the authentic stuff with chillies hotter than anywhere else in China, you are in for a real treat with the city's offerings. As the tears stream from your eyes and your lips swell with numbing pain, you will know you are eating authentic hot pot.
If you really can't handle the spice, "wo bu yao la" means "I don't want it spicy." The Little Swan the city's best hot pot, but it can be a bit expensive. Yangrou Guan on Minzu Lu and Minsheng Lu are both good streets for hot pot and also heaps of street food and hole-in-the-wall restaurants. Shaanxi Lu near Chaotianmen Dock has steaming heaps of noodles. One of the best streets to find outdoor patios, good atmosphere and modestly priced food is Nanan Binjiang Lu. There is often live music on weekends, adding to the hectic and festive feel of the area. If you are not into Sichuan fare, you might get stuck hunting down a KFC or head to Pizza Almalfi near the Liberation Monument. Sofia's Coffee House has good café atmosphere, strong coffee and standard Western fare.
Getting Around
Taxi
There are two kinds of taxis in Chongqing. The yellow ones are more common with a base rate of 5 RMB for the first three kilometers and then 1.8 RMB per additional kilometer; the other kind is less common kind usually in white have a base rate of 7 RMB for the first three kilometers and then 2.8 RMB per additional kilometer. There will be an additional 15% charge between 10:00 p.m. and 7:00 a.m.
Light Rail
There is only one line in operation, running between Jiaochangkou and Xinshancun from 6:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. with 18 stations.
Cableway
A cableway is set up across the river nearby Chaotianmen where the Yangzi River meets Jialing River. If you want to have a nice night view of Chongqing City, this is a good choice.
To and From Chongqing
Air
The most safe and efficient way to the mountainous city Chongqing is probably by plane. Jiangbei Airport is located in Lianglu Town, Yubei District of Chongqing, around 23 km from downtown and the transportation is very convenient due to the efficiency brought about by the expressway. There are direct flights to more than 40 cities within China. After finishing your Chongqing travel, you may fly on to Urumqi, Lhasa or Kunming from here to continue your travel in western China.
Railway
There are four main railway lines which meet in Chongqing. They are the Sichuan-Guizhou line, Chengdu-Chongqing line, Chongqing-Huaihua line and Xiangfan-Chongqing line, which are connected with the other main railway lines in China.
There are three train stations in Chongqing and they are Chongqing Railway Station located in Caiyuanba, South Railway Station in Jiulongpo and North Railway Station in Longtou Si.
Bus
There are frequent long-distance buses to the counties belonging to Chongqing as well as to Sichuan, Hunan, Guizhou and other provinces. But do remember to buy tickets at the correct ticketing window. The fares for buses taking the expressway and the common highway are different even for the same destinations. The buses taking the common highway may stop at some small places on the way.
Chongqing Long-distance Bus Station is located on No.6 Caiyuan Lu with buses to Chengdu, Luzhou, Neijiang, Leshan, Guangan and Nanchuan etc.
Chongqing Bus Station in Caiyuanba has buses to Chengdu, Luzhou, Qianjiang, Guiyang and Xishui etc.
Chongqing North Bus Station is located in Hongqihegou, Jiangbei with buses to Lingshui, Wanzhou, Zhongxian and Kaixian, etc.
Chongqing West Bus Station (Chongqing Chenjiaping Bus Station) is located at the crossing of Chenjiaping with buses to Chengdu, Dazu, Jiangjin, Yongchuan and Tongnan etc.
Chongqing Chaotianmen Bus Station is near Chaotianmen Pier with buses to Yibin, Nanchong, Wanzhou, and Dazu etc.
Chongqing Bus Transportation Center is located in District A, Traffic Square, Chaotianmen with buses to Puling, Changshou and Fengdu etc.
Nanping Bus Station is near Nanping Bus Stop with buses to Wansheng, Nanchuan and Dongquan etc.
Shapingba Bus Station is located at No. 58 Tianchen Lu, Shapingba District with buses to Hechuan, Guangan, Leshan and Chengdu etc.
Ferry
Ferry is a very common transportation means to and from Chongqing. There are regular ferries to Yichang, Wuhan and other cities along the middle and lower reaches of the Yangzi River daily except during flood seasons. The ticket office is at Chongqing Ferry Terminal of Chaotianmen.
Chongqing doesn't really have much of an arts scene as of yet. It does, however, have the world's largest public bathroom, created in July 2007. The bathroom (really more of a bathroom museum) is a four story building with 1,000 toilets of very interesting shapes. Several urinals have the look of an open crocodile mouth or a woman resembling the Virgin Mary showing her bust. This place brings new meaning to toilet humor. Another interesting annual happening is the International Travel Festival every year from May through June.
Bars and Clubs
The drinking scene hasn't really caught on the much, so most of the bars tend to be underpopulated. Nanan Binjiang Lu generally has the best and liveliest bars. The Celtic Man offers up thick, molasses-like Guiness, and all you would expect from an Irish pub the world over. The Newcastle Arms serves proper McEwan's beer on tap. Dee Dee's bar is a favorite in Nanping, near the Holiday Inn. Noah's Ark is an atmospheric and cozy bar close to the Liberation Monument.