Long known as the northern gateway to Beijing, this historically significant city and its surrounding countryside provide a number of excellent weekend-trip possiblities from the capital. Comprising a whopping 36,947 square kilometer (14,237 square miles) and situated at the meeting place of three mountain ranges—the Hengshan, Taihang and Yanshan—greater Zhangjiakou's peaks, valleys and plains offer a number of options for hiking, sightseeing and skiing. The city itself, an increasingly prosperous industrial center, is a fairly typical northern Chinese urban area with some fascinating history that makes for a good break from the intensity of the capital.

Among the scenic and recreational areas worth checking out  in Zhangjiakou are Bashang Prairie, a Qing-era hunting ground that provides a taste of the wide-open spaces of nearby Inner Mongolia; the Wanlong Ski Resort and the Cuiyunshan Ski Resort, located in Heping Forest Park; the ruggedly beautiful Xiao Wutai Shan Nature Reserve and a number of ancient temples, pagodas, residences and military constructions, including Dajing Gate. The greater Zhangjiakou area also includes a number of smaller settlements, such as the old garrison town of Xuanhua, known both for its proud military tradition and excellent vineyards, a number of which are now providing grapes for one of China's largest and most successful wine makers, Great Wall Wines.

History

Zhangjiakou was long known as Kalgan to much of the world. The name comes from the Mongolian word for "barrier," which was an apt description of this key city's importance to Qing Dynasty China (1644-1911). If you were a merchant heading east on the Tea Road that ran northwest into Central Asia and then west toward Europe, Kalgan was the end of the line: there you would hit the Great Wall's main northern gate. Likewise, if you were heading west, you'd load up your camels or horses with goods from China—most likely tea—and start your long journey from this garrison town.

By the time the Qing fell in 1911, the railroad had replaced caravans, and Zhangjiakou continued to serve as a buffer zone between Beijing and the north. After Sino-Soviet relations soured in the 1950s, the city's defensive role was more important than ever, as China girded itself for a possible war with the Russians. Fortunately, that never happened, and in the years since the greater Zhangjiakou area has prospered, taking advantage of its proximity to Beijing as well as of its abundant natural resources, from timber to gold to grapes to coal and iron ore.

Climate

Greater Zhoujiakou covers a lot of territory and, depending on where you are, temperatures can vary quite a bit. Generally a few degrees cooler than Beijing, it's best to be prepared with layers in fall, winter and spring, as evenings can get downright chilly well into late spring. Summer, on the other hand, is hot and wetter, and the area is subject to the same variety of dust storms that plague the capital. Winter itself can be brutally cold, as weather  systems move down across Mongolia from Siberia.

Given the four-hour travel time from Beijing, most find it just as appealing to stay the night in Zhangjiakou as to return to the capital. Outside of the city, of course, are a number of recreation and resort areas, widening the range of hotel options. In general, Zhangjiakou has not yet been discovered by major Western brands, so the great majority of hotel options are Chinese hotels, both private and state-run. Your best bet for booking is to use a Chinese service (we recommend Ctrip.com) and bring those things with you that you might miss if you're accustomed to Western hotels (for example, depending on your budget, don't  necessarily count of finding a good cup of coffee in the morning or an abundance of toilet paper). Please help build our community network of hotel and hostel listings by reviewing any places you stay in Zhangjiakou. If you're hitting the slopes in winter, the Wanlong Hotel is a good bet, both for a bed and a tasty Chinese meal.

Zhanjiakou's mix of ethnicities includes Han, Mongolians and Manchu, and the area's cuisine reflects this diversity. Local produce also shapes the food scene, and the region's grapes, apricots, wild mushrooms, milk and beef are all likely to turn up in local markets and restaurants. Largely free of the international dining options available in cosmopolitan Beijing, Zhanjiakou is a great place to eat like a local.

Getting Around

Besides the public buses within the city, taxis are available with a base rate RMB 5 for the first two kilometers (1.2 miles), and 1.2 RMB per additional kilometer. 

To and from Zhangjiakou

Bus

Located in the northwestern region of Hebei Province, four national highways run right through the city, connecting Zhangjiakou  to nearby provinces, cities and towns. Buses from the North Bus Station depart for Beijing five times each day; travel time is about three and a half hours. From Beijing, buses depart from Worker's Stadium and several bus stations to Zhangjiakou. Note that the ski resorts offer shuttle bus service.

Train 

Two railway lines pass through Zhangjiakou: Jingbao railway line (linking Beijing and Baotou in Inner Mogonia) and Daqin railway line (linking Beijing and Datong in Shanxi Province). Both Beijing Railway Station and Beijing West Railway Station trains travel to Zhangjiakou each day; both take about four hours.
 
 

Among the Chinese, Zhangjiakou is best known for its agricultural produce, including yams, oat flour, and furs (partly a holdover from the Russian trade heyday). Furs in particular are popular among Chinese visitors. Kou mo, a special type of edible mushroom that grows on the grasslands of Mongolia are popular, as are local pine mushrooms. Grapes are also big in Zhangjiakou, and the region is becoming increasingly recognized for its vineyards and wines. The xuanhua grape or bai niunai ("white milk") grape is particularly well regarded. Folk arts and crafts include delicate paper-cut silhouettes.