Xiamen (Xiàmén, 厦门; formerly Amoy and still called E-mng in the local Hokkien dialect) is one of Fujian province's most beautiful coastal cities. Situated at the mouth of Jiulong River (Nine Dragon River), the city of Xiamen encompasses Xiamen Island, Gulangyu Islet and, on the mainland, Tong'an County (Tóng'ān Qū, 同安区).
Xiamen's history as a port goes way back: It was the first of the Qing Dynasty treaty ports where foreign merchants were allowed to settle and legally trade with Chinese traders. Today, the legacy of that history—the extensive concession-era villas, townhouses and consulates of Gulangyu—testify to that past. Later in the 20th century, the city became one of China's first special economic zones, leading to rapid development that continues today, though its popularity as a tourist destination only really began to realize its huge potential after the region, which is opposite Taiwan, was opened up after years as a sensitive military center.
Today, Xiamen's salty sea breezes, sunny days and picturesque scenery draw throngs of Chinese tourists. It is slowly gaining in popularity among foreign visitors as well and has become a favorite destination for expats and travelers looking to kitesurf in China. In the heat of the summer, Xiamen's beaches are popular spots to cool off and though much of the shoreline could use intensive cleanup efforts (there's plenty to remind you that Xiamen is far more than industrial port than beach resort).
Xiamen is probably best known for Gulangyu, an islet accessible only by ferry located off Xiamen Island's southwestern coast. Cars are forbidden on Gulangyu and foot traffic prevails, although there is a small armada of electric powered golf buggy-style vehicles on hand to whisk leg-weary or less budget conscious tourists between scenic spots.
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History
Xiamen, blessed with a deep water ice and silt-free port, has a long history of foreign trade. Trade with Europe first began in the mid 15th century, with tea leaves quickly becoming the primary export.
The is also known as the point of departure for a majority of China's overseas migrant population, with a significant number of Fujianese having departed for nearby Taiwan in the turmoil-heavy years leading up to and immediately following the establishment of the People's Republic of China in 1949.
The increase in trade relations and exposure to foreign cultures over the centuries has left its mark on Xiamen—evident today in the city's unique "Sino-Mediterranean" style architecture, local attitudes and hospitality.
In the early 1980's, under the direction of Deng Xiaoping, Xiamen was designated a Special Economic Zone (SEZ) and began a new wave of foreign trade and growth. Substantial tax cuts and other incentives lead to an influx of foreign companies and the establishment of a multitude of factories.
In 1999, Xiamen "lost face" on the world stage as the largest corruption scandal in Chinese history was uncovered. Some 200 government officials and members of the local Public Security Bureau were implicated, accused of running a huge smuggling operation whose proceeds were used to fund the building of a film studio and various other constructions, finance the local football team, and invested in a brothel.
Climate
There's basically no bad time to visit Xiamen, but if you plan a dip in the South China Sea, late spring to early autumn would be the best time to visit. The climate is sub-tropical monsoon, so expect summer rains. Average annual temperature is a comfortable 21ºC (70ºF) with highs peaking at just a bit over 38ºC (100ºF) and lows at 2ºC (36ºF).
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Xiamen has the usual selection of accommodation options, from the dank and grimy budget digs to the ultra plush luxury hotels. You can find hotels all over town, but many tourists opt to stay in downtown Xiamen around Zhongshan Lu (Zhōngshān Lù, 中山路) and the Ferry Terminal. This area tends to be a little more pricey than others, but cheap rooms can be found if you spend a little time looking. Check out the Home Inn (Siming Road) for low prices, clean rooms and a convenient location or splash out on the Wydham Xiamen.
Those looking for something a little less urban should head along the coast road to the Asia Gulf, a good value mid-range hotel offering beach side accomodation. Not far from the Asia Gulf toward Xiamen University (Xiàmén Dàxué, 厦门大学) is the small village of Zeng Cuo An (Zéng Cuò An Cūn, 曾厝垵村), a bohemian enclave of chilled out guesthouses, bars and restaurants.
And of course, lovely Gulangyu is a haven of hotels, hostels and guesthouses of all stripes. For a touch of old colonial splendor check out the Miryam Boutique hotel. The Yang Tao Hotel starts at RMB 287 and offers a range of bright and airy rooms.
If you arrive in town via the railway station, prepare to be approached by people trying to drag you to a hotel they represent. These guys can be pretty insistent and are known to follow tourists around and even attempt to bargain on their behalf for room prices at hotels (for a small fee). Ignoring these people is well advised, even if you don't have a hotel booked.
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Getting Around
Taxi
Taxi fares in Xiamen start at RMB 8 during the day, plus an RMB 1 fuel surcharge (RMB 2 for journeys over 3 km) and 20% extra between 3-5am. After the first 3 km (about 1.7 mi), each additional km is RMB 2. Taxi stations are often located near bus stations, shopping malls or supermarkets or you can flag them down on the street. If you run into problems with your driver or suspect he or she is taking you for a ride in a figurative sense, you can call the taxi complaints hotline at (86 592) 561 5610.
Xiamen Kangfu Taxis: (86 592) 228 6093
Xiamen Haixia Taxis: (86 592) 577 3888
Bicycle
Xiamen by bike offers a wonderful round-the-island perspective, especially along the coast road Huándǎo Lù which offers a lengthy scenic coastal bike path. Bike rental is available at several points along this strip including Baicheng Beach (Báichéng Hǎitān, 白城海滩), Hulishan Fort (Húlǐshān Pàotái, 湖里山炮台), and the Xiamen International Conference and Exhibition Center. Rates range from RMB 30-50 per day with single-seat, tandems and four wheelers available.
Ferry
As the main vehicle for visitors to reach Gulangyu, the Xia-Gu dedicated ferry runs exclusively between Xiamen Island (from the Lujiang Ferry Pier just in front of the Lujiang Hotel) and Gulangyu. Operating from 6am to 11pm ferries depart every few minutes, then until midnight, every 20 minutes. The crossing takes 8-10 minutes. The one-way fee is 3 RMB plus 1 RMB for upper deck seats. You can also hop on your own private speedboat with prices around RMB 50 for the 3-minute journey.
It is also possible to take a round-the-island-tour of Gulangyu offering pretty views of the island from every angle (RMB 15).
Xiamen Steamer Head Office
33 Lujiang Lu (Lùjiāng Lù, 鹭江路), Passenger Travel Wharf, Xiamen
Tel: (86 592) 212 5187
Inquiry hotline: (86 592) 2135051
Car
Xiamen has numerous local car rental companies including Taicheng, Yingshi, Dongshunfa and Xinnan, which offer varied services according to clients' needs with self drive (Chinese driving license required) or chauffeur service available.
To and from Xiamen
Ferry
Ferries run from Xiamen to Jinmen (a small Tawainese island just 2 km off the Fujian coast) from one of Xiamen's two international ferry terminals, Wutong Passengers Port (Wǔtōng Kèyùn Mǎtóu, 五通客运码头) on Huandao Road near Xiamen International Airport, or Xiamen International Ferry Terminal in Dongdu (Dōngdù Xiàmén Guójì Yóulún Zhōngxīn, 东渡厦门国际邮轮中心 ). Fast boats (approx. one hour from Dongdu and 30 mins from Wutong) depart every hour from 8:30am to 5:30pm and tickets cost RMB 160 one way--be sure to arrive 20 minutes before boarding for customs formalities and make sure you have a double or multi-entry visa to return to China. This is also a handy alternative to Hong Kong for those whose China visas require a regular exit-entry stamp. As there is only one port on Jinmen Island for Xiamen, and the timetable alternates between Dongdu and Wutong, if you leave Xiamen from one port, it is faster to head back to the other port.
Air
Xiamen Gaoqi International Airport lies on the north side of Xiamen Island and is China's fourth largest international entry and exit airport after Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. Construction of a second terminal is due to finish in 2014.
Currently there are 34 international and regional flight routes from Xiamen, covering Europe, southeast Asia, Korea, Japan, USA, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan with Osaka, Nagoya, Tokyo, Seoul and Amsterdam also covered since March 2011. There are daily flights from Xiamen to all major Chinese cities including flights to Beijing, Changsha, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian, Guangzhou, Guilin, Hangzhou, Kunming, Nanjing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Xi'an and more.
Getting to and from the airport
Taxis cost RMB 30-40 from the airport to downtown depending on your final destination.
The airport shuttle bus (RMB 6) runs from the shuttle bus station, a 3-5 minute walk from the arrival hall (turn right at the exit).
Five public bus routes run from the Airport Bus Station (turn left out of Arrival Hall, about 200-250 m) to downtown Xiamen:
Bus No. 27: Airport to Ferry Station
Bus No. 37: Airport to Xiamen Railway Station
Bus No. 41: Airport to Bonded Area
Bus No. 81: Airport to Lianhua Er Cun
Bus No. 91: Airport Xiamen International Exhibition Center
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Zhongshan Lu (Zhōngshān Lù, 中山路) is Xiamen's best known shopping area. It's a lovely area featuring Portuguese style architecture with covered sidewalks and a myriad of small stores selling the local specialties—silver and jade jewelery, antiques, calligraphy and, of course, pearls. Shop keepers are always willing to bargain but you should, as always, beware of fakes.
Other prominent shopping areas can be found on Gulangyu, Xiahe Lu (Xiàhé Lù, 厦禾路) and the area adjacent to Xiamen University and Nanputuo Temple. Most of these places feature the same kinds of products, but from time to time you can dig up some real treasures. Check out the shop on the left of the Nanputuo Temple gate for some really unique art created by local monks.
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Following in the footsteps of its northern neighbor Shanghai, Xiamen has its own well developed nightlife and entertainment scene. Local magazines, such as What's On Xiamen, are published monthly keeping the expat community and fashion conscious locals informed of all Xiamen's social events.
Clubs and bars
The nightlife in Xiamen is still emerging and many of the town's nightclubs are still typical Chinese style discos blaring the likes of the Vengaboys and vintage Aqua hits. A growing number of local bars and clubs are starting to cater to the tastes of the expanding expat community, offering decent live music, imported beverages and quality cocktails. For a classic British pub atmosphere complete with draft Guinness, bottled London Pride and homemade steak pie head to the Londoner on Guanren Lu (Guānrèn Lù, 官任路) near the Marco Polo hotel (you'll also find a host of other nightilfe spots of various caliber in the vicinity including KTV and Chinese nightclubs of the techno music, smoke and lasers school). A hip little hangout with by far the best mojitos in Xiamen and possibly China is Thank You Cafe run by friendly Hong Kong owner/DJ, Dave Situ or "DJ Dfu" on Daxue Lu (Dàxué Lù, 大学路), 2111, Store 13/14.
Zeng Cuo An (Zéng Cuò An Cūn, 曾厝垵村) located in Siming District (Sīmíng Qū, 思明区) just off Huandao Lu (Huándǎo Lù, 环岛路) that runs along the coast toward Xiamen University, has recently blossomed into a hub of laidback bars, guesthouses and restaurants where the service may not always be the fastest but it will sure as heck be friendly, with good quality Western and Chinese food and drinks to choose from. Temple Cafe is a particular highlight, located in a converted and beautifully renovated Buddhist temple complete with an open courtyard and a stellar all-day breakfast. Check out tiny Solo Bar for cheap and cheerful drinks where the list depends on what they happen to have in stock.
Expect imported beers or spirits to run RMB 30-50 and local brews around RMB 18-20. If money is an issue, there's nothing better than grabbing a couple of chilled local Sedrin beers and hitting the beach. In the summertime, keep an eye out for regular beach bonfires and BBQ parties, especially up towards Xiamen University.
Museums
You won't be starved for choice of museums in Xiamen. There are 17 museums in total, though not all of them will excite the interest of the average tourist. The Overseas Chinese Museum, the Piano Museum and Xiamen Museum (Xiàmén Bówùguǎn, 厦门博物馆) are some of the more popular choices for the mainstream crowd, but niche enthusiasts might also enjoy the Jinquan Coin Museum (Jīnquán Qiánbì Bówùguǎn, 厦门金泉钱币博物馆) in Gulangyu's former British Consulate or the Xiamen Bridge Museum (Xiàmén Qiáoliáng Bówùguǎn, 厦门桥梁博物馆).
Festivals & Events
Aside from the usual traditonal Chinese festivals, Xiamen also has a number of local celebrations and international events taking place throughout the year.
January hosts the annual Xiamen International Marathon, one of China's best known and most scenic marathons.
In early April, Xiamen celebrates the Cold Food Festival (Hánshí Jié 寒食节), the precursor to the better known Qingming Jie (Qīngmíng Jié 清明节) or "Tomb Sweeping Festival". Thousands of years ago an important official was burned to death on that day and in remembrance, no flame or fire should be used so only cold foods can be consumed.
Come Mid-Autum Festival, one of the customs unique to southern Fujian and parts of neighboring Taiwan is Mooncake Gambling. Introduced by local hero-pirate Koxinga in the 17th century to stop his troops from getting bored, this dice game continues to keep families, friends and colleagues entertained on the long, quiet autumn nights.
Moving into November there is the Xiamen International Kite Flying Festival where the air above the beach is filled with fantastical creatures in all shapes and sizes expertly flown by teams of kite enthusiasts from around China and southeast Asia.
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