Tianjin, China's third largest municipality-level city after international superstar Shanghai and nearby Beijing, tends to get lost in the shuffle. It's not perceived as archetypal of China's present warp-speed rush to modernize like Shanghai, nor is it widely known for its historical significance like Beijing. It's too bad, because this often overlooked city has much to offer: an eclectic stock of colonial-era, European-style buildings to rival Shanghai's famous Bund, excellent examples of classical Chinese architecture such as the Monastery of Deep Compassion and Tianhou Temple, great shopping at the Antiques Market and in modern malls, a dynamic local culture featuring a delicious seafood-based cuisine, and, in the northern reaches of the municipality well beyond the urban core, the Huangyaguan stretch of the Great Wall. The best of Tianjin isn't served up on a pre-arranged package-tour platter, but with a little effort it's a rewarding and fascinating destination.
History
Tianjin's name reflects its historical status as something of an in-between place. Translating roughly to "Emperor's Ford" (from the characters for "heaven"—the emperor is the "Son of Heaven"—and "river ford"), Tianjin received its name from the great Ming Emperor Yongle (1402-1424 AD), who crossed the Hai River on his way to take the imperial throne in Beijing from his nephew. In 1404, the city formerly known as Zhigu ("Straight Port") was renamed in honor of Yongle's passage.
Tianjin had already been a trading center from the time of the Sui Dynasty (581-618 AD) thanks to its proximity to Beijing, Bohai Bay, the Yellow River and the Grand Canal, which delivered huge quantities of goods, including imperial tribute rice from much of China, to Tianjin before continuing on to Beijing. When the European colonial powers began to expand into China in the nineteenth century, Tianjin was caught between European imperial ambition and the struggles of the weakening Qing Dynasty (1614-1911). In 1856, Qing troops boarded a merchant vessel in Tianjin flying the British flag and took a dozen prisoners on charges of piracy and opium smuggling. This provided the British and French with a pretext to send in gunboats, which overpowered Chinese defenses with relative ease. The 1858 Treaty of Tianjin granted colonial powers broad concessions in the city, and it was not long before Britain, France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, Italy, Belgium and Japan all established their own self-enclosed trading bases outside the old Chinese city. Today, visitors can still see fine examples of this troubled period's architectural heritage, from imposing bank buildings and administrative centers to spacious, ornate villas.
Anti-foreigner sentiment was understandably strong in the area and eventually led to an eruption of violence in the so-called Tianjin Incident of 1870, during which local Chinese, convinced that a French orphanage was a front for kidnapping and cannibalism, attacked and burned the Wanghailou Church and French consulate, killing a number of nuns and priests in the process. This led to demands for reparations, which the Qing were obliged to pay. Later, in 1900, the Boxers rose in Tianjin, only to be defeated by an eight-nation expeditionary force. In 1937, Tianjin again suffered imperialist aggression when the Japanese seized the city, occupying it until their final 1945 defeat and the end of World War II. The Japanese occupation was followed by a brief American military presence that ended in 1947 after mass demonstrations erupted throughout the city, protesting a series of rapes by US service members.
The Communists took Tianjin in 1949, along with the rest of mainland China. The tumultuous period of the Cultural Revolution ended in 1976, a year that saw both the death of Mao Zedong and a massive earthquake that killed nearly 24,000 people in Tianjin. Since the opening of China's economy in 1980, Tianjin has grown with the rest of industrial China. One of China's four municipalities, along with Beijing, Shanghai and Chongqing, Tianjin has the same administrative status as the country's much larger provinces—a testament to the city's importance. Today, like so many Chinese cities, Tianjin is experiencing growing pains as much of the old—including a number of the old European colonial buildings—gives way to huge development projects.
Climate
The best times to visit Tianjin are spring (April and May are nicest) and fall (September and October). Tianjin experiences cold, dry and windy winters, with average low January temperatures falling to 2 º C (36 º F). By July, the city's average highs reach a steamy 31 º C (87 º F) as Southeast Asia's monsoon system pushes hot and humid air northward, bringing with it regular rains. Spring and summer also see occasional sandstorms as sand and dust from the Gobi Desert blow into the city.
Given its size and historical importance as a trading center, Tianjin offers an impressive range of restaurants featuring various Chinese cuisines as well as those of other lands. Its proximity to Beijing ensures that the distinct and famous styles of Chinese cooking cultivated in the capital are well represented in Tianjin, and the renowned cuisine of nearby Shandong Peninsula is reflected in seafood-based dishes and favored soups (one of the eight great traditions of Chinese cuisine).
If you are curious about local specialties beyond seafood, venture to the Shipin Jie food street, where stalls and small restaurants abound, serving a dizzying array of dishes. For starters, try the Tianjin take on the ubiquitous steamed and stuffed Chinese dumpling, easily found at a Goubuli Stuffed Dumpling Restaurant ("Goubuli" translates rather enigmatically as "dogs don't care" or, roughly, as "gone to the dogs"), which is now a successful international chain. Other local snack foods are good value—sample some erduoyan zhagao, delicious rice-flour cakes fried in sesame oil, and shiba jie mahua (fried dough twists rather like doughnuts).
For upscale dining and international options the main hotels are, generally, your best bet, often providing English-language menus, continental and American cuisine and decent wine lists as well as higher-end Chinese options. Good Korean and Japanese restaurants can be found, as well, mixed in with Chinese eateries. Particularly good restaurant streets include Shandong Lu, Nanjing Lu, Jiefang Beilu, Zhejiang Lu and Zhongshan Lu.
Getting Around
Rapidly developing Tianjin boasts one subway line and one light rail line, for now. Metro Line One runs 5:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. from Liuyuan to the terminal station Shuangxiu, with 22 stops in between. Taxis offer a cheap across-town option. Flagfall is RMB 8 for the first 3 kilometers and RMB 1.7 per additional kilometer. Public buses are also convenient, but route signs and maps can be confusing.
To and from Tianjin
Air
Tianjin Binhai International Airport is an important transportation hub in China. The airport lies 13 kilometers from the city center and 30 kilometers from Tianjin Port. A thoroughly modern international airport, Binhai houses more than 40 international and domestic airlines. Regular shuttle buses run between the downtown area and the airport. There is also a bus to Beijing Capital International Airport from Binhai.
Train
Four large railway stations service Tianjin: Tianjin Railway Station (east of Jiefangqiao), Tianjin North Railway Station (at Hebei District), Tianjin South Railway Station (at Liuwei Lu, Hedong District) and Tianjin West Railway Station (northwest of Tianjin city). Tianjin Railway Station, the largest of the four, has train routes to Beijing, Shanhaiguan (Shanhai Pass), Jinan (Shandong Province), Jixian (Tianjin municipality) and Bazhou (Hebei Province). Express commuter trains run between Tianjin and Beijing every hour each day. The Beijing terminus is always Beijing Railway Station but both Tianjin Railway Station and Tianjin North Railway Station receive commuter trains. Check the ticket prior to departure.
Bus
Four main expressways and five national highways traverse Tianjin, easily connecting the city to all major regional and national destinations. Tianhuan Long-distance Bus Station at the intersection of Hongqi Lu and Anshan Xidao in Nankai District is the most important bus station in Tianjin, servicing major nearby cities.
Boat
Tianjin Port is the largest man-made port in China. Three domestic routes head for Longkou (Shandong Province), Yantai (Shandong Province) and Dalian (Liaoning Province), while the international routes connect to Inchon, Korea and Honshu, Japan.
Tianjin's Antiques Market (Guwan Shichang) and Ancient Culture Street are two of the more likely spots to find yourself if you're in the mood to drop a few RMB on souvenirs or even authentic bits of Chinese culture. The former consists of crowded shops strung along Shenyang Jie and its offshoot alleyways, full of jade and ceramic; fans and sunglasses (not antique); old books, prints and playing cards; Cultural Revolution-era memorabilia (some of it of real interest, some of it quite a bit more like forgettabilia) and pretty much anything else China has managed to crank out over the past few centuries. It can be a raucous, lively scene and, with a bit of patience, you can find some excellent bargains. Prices are generally below those of Beijing's markets, but you'll have to bargain hard to get to rock bottom. Also, be on the lookout for fakes.
Ancient Culture Street is an attractive replica of an older China, replete with brightly painted woodwork, upturned eaves, tiled roofs and charming balconies—all quite well done. After running the gauntlet of shops, you can visit the authentic Sea Goddess Temple, dating from 1326 and expertly restored. The area is good for picking up Tianjin-related crafts, including small clay figurines and New Year posters. For anything else you might care to purchase, from electronics to ladies' fashion, the city is well stocked with malls and department stores, and though it lacks the consumerist glam and glitter of Hong Kong or Shanghai, prices for many goods do tend to be a bit lower.
Though many a Tianjin native and resident expat looking for a lively night out might tell you to hop on the train to Beijing, don't be so quick to write off China's third-largest municipality. Playing the Baltimore to Beijing's DC, Tianjin offers plenty of fun, especially if you're looking for less pretension and more down-to-earth proletarian fun (not to say garish nouveau-riche fun can't be had, too). Tianjin's location near the Bohai Gulf also makes it good for water sports and boating in the warmer months, and its countryside surroundings include mountain trails, temples and the impressive stretch of the Great Wall at Huangyaguan Pass. A number of golf courses have also sprung up around Tianjin in recent years. In short, for those looking for some outdoor R&R, Tianjin's not a bad place to be.
Bars & Clubs
Like any Chinese city, Tianjin has KTV (karaoke) bars and local watering holes galore. Most foreign visitors will want to seek out more expat-oriented places like Mojo Bar & Café, which serves decent burgers and other American-style bar food; Cosy Café & Bar, which has a dance floor and stage for live music; the Sunrise Club, featuring live local acts; and Kanghao with its dance scene.
Museums & Galleries
Industrial Tianjin may seem hard pressed to hold a candle to nearby Beijing's cultural riches, but the city itself is something of an architectural museum documenting the regional tenure of various European powers from the mid-1800s through the early twentieth century. As such, there are a few museums and galleries worth checking out, the foremost among them being the Fine Art Museum, which holds a good collection of classical Chinese paintings and prints, along with small figurines known as ni ren ("mud men") that were popular in the area in the nineteenth century.
Performing Arts
Live music, whether performed by local acts or groups in from Beijing, can be heard at various small venues around town on a regular basis. If you're up for it, catch a performance of "crosstalk"—a Chinese variety of stand-up performed by a wisecracking duo in either Tianjin dialect or Mandarin; Tianjin residents are well-known for their mouthy ways and crosstalk is a local specialty. There is also opera of the Beijing variety, which can be perfectly enjoyable for the spectacle, whether you know a word of Mandarin or not.
Outdoor Recreation
Tianjin's seaside location makes for good boating and beach-going. Locals like to tool around in motorboats, which is a good way to see the city from the Hai River; you also have the option of taking it easy on a traditional sampan. The beaches get crowded in hot weather and swimming isn't necessarily recommended due to pollution, but it's pleasant enough to relax near the water and watch the Tianjianese at play. North of the urban core, good hiking is found on and around Mount Pan and in the vicinity of Great Wall at Huangyaguan Pass.
Festivals & Events
The traditional festival season starts with Spring Festival (Chinese New Year), timed to the Chinese lunar calendar and generally falling in late January or early February. Tianjin celebrates this one with verve, setting off endless firecrackers and taking to the streets to greet friends and family, exchange red envelopes and witness parades of performers on stilts, in costumes and animating dragons. Shortly after the onset of the New Year, the Lantern Festival lights up the town, and the Tianjianese eat special buns and dumplings. Come spring (around mid-March or early April), the Queen of Heaven Temple Royal Fair pays homage to Mazu (the Queen of Heaven) in her role as the merciful sea goddess, entrusted with the lives of fishermen and ocean-going traders. It's a great opportunity to catch traditional performances of drum music, opera, dance and acrobatics.