Suzhou has long benefited from its location between two of China's greatest waterways. One, the Yangzi River, divides north and south China; the other, the Grand Canal, connects them. Suzhou itself is nestled in the midst of a network of smaller canals and natural waterways that historically linked the city to various dynastic capitals in Beijing, Hangzhou and Nanjing, making it a vital center of trade, industry and culture while bringing it riches, fame and patronage of the arts.
From the Song Dynasty onward, its wealthy inhabitants set about turning Suzhou into a green city, building sprawling garden homes alongside willow-lined canals and employing skilled artisans to blend the manmade and natural in classic Chinese style. Today, though the old city still has its moat and many of its finest gardens, greater Suzhou is far from being stuck in the past—it's a booming metropolis of 5 million, profiting from its proximity to the Yangzi delta and the economic powerhouse of Shanghai. Despite the building boom, many gardens, temples and classic Chinese canal scenes remain, and Suzhou is still the source of some of China's finest silk.
Cycle around the city visiting gardens, shop for silk and local handicrafts, visit the Suzhou Museum addition designed by native son I.M. Pei, head out to one of the Ming or Qing-era canal towns on the city's outskirts or the pleasant island-speckled Tai Hu, China's third largest lake—the list of things to do and see in Suzhou is long.
History
Suzhou was established as the capital of the Wu Kingdom in 514 BC, and it was Wu King Fu Chai who in 486 BC initiated the construction of what would in time become the Grand Canal. The Wu formed alliances and enmities with various neighboring kingdoms during the chaotic Spring and Autumn Period (722-481 BC), briefly attaining dominance with the help of the famous Sun Tzu (The Art of War) before falling to the ascendant Yue in 473 BC. Today, Suzhou's Pan Gate, which dates back some 2,500 years, stands as testimony to the Wu.
Suzhou returned to prominence during the Sui Dynasty, which had reunited northern and southern China in 581 AD. In 486 AD, Sui Emperor Yangdi engineered the connection of the network of small regional canals running intermittently between north and south into the Grand Canal, stretching from Hangzhou to Beijing. The center of power in China subsequently moved from north to south, with the Song and Ming Dynasties establishing capitals in Hangzhou and Nanjing, respectively (though the Ming would return to Beijing). Many of Suzhou's renowned gardens were built in the Ming and Qing years. Invasions by the Mongols, Taiping rebels and Western-led anti-Taiping forces aside, Suzhou was primarily a place of commerce, leisure and scholarship for centuries on end.
In the twentieth century, Suzhou suffered under Japanese occupation during World War II, when much of its classical architecture was damaged. Since the Communist victory in 1949, much of the city's old architecture—including most of the city wall—have given way to new developments. Still, the old city remains a very pleasant place to explore, rewarding visitors with numerous glimpse old Suzhou in classic canal scenes, stone bridges and, of course, the famed gardens.
Climate
Spring and fall are the best times to visit Suzhou, with moderate rains and temperatures making for pleasant outdoor weather. April and May see high temperatures in the mid-teens and 20s C藲 (60s and 70s ºF) and moderate precipitation. September is nice and October is brilliant, with little rain and highs ranging from the about 15-24 ºC (70-84 ºF). Summers are hot and muggy, with August highs reaching well into the 30s C藲 (90s ºF), and winters chilly and damp, with lows occasionally dipping below freezing.
A city surrounded by fresh water, Suzhou cuisine has developed a unique style based on local aquatic life. Try the xiangyou shanhu (stewed shredded eel), a yinyu ("silver fish"), a delectable songshu guiyu (Mandarin fish, stewed and lightly fried with a semisweet sauce) or steamed Tai Hu whitefish with ginger and peppers. Mid-autumn is crab season, with fresh Yang Cheng crabs appearing all over town. The local palate favors light seasoning and slightly sweet sauces that allow the taste of fish, meat and lightly cooked vegetables to come through cleanly. Suzhou snacks and street food are highly regarded—try the honeyed doufu (tofu) cakes, pine nuts in syrup, melon seeds fried with rose juice, sesame cakes with mashed dates or other traditional treats. The best places to try authentic Suzhou cuisine can be found along Siqian Jie and the middle of Renmin Lu.
International cuisine has made its way to the city restaurants, thanks to the influx of foreign tourists in recent years. The big hotels do some good western food and a number of smaller independent restaurants around town are branching into continental cuisine.
Getting Around
Taxi
Taxis are convenient in Suzhou. Base rate is 10 RMB for the first three kilometers and 1.8 RMB per additional kilometer.
Pedicab
Another cheap and interesting way to get around Suzhou is by pedicab. The base rate is 2 RMB, and for a longer trip, the price is higher. Remember to bargain. It is better to fix the price before you start rolling.
Bike
Traveling around Suzhou by bike is another good choice. You can rent a bike beside the Railway Station or on Shiquan Jie. The price is reasonable, and it is a popular way to travel around town. Remember to lock the bike when you don't use it. You may be asked for ID and generally you'll have to leave a deposit of up to 200 RMB.
To and from Suzhou
Train
Most people fly to Shanghai at Hongqiao International Airport and Pudong International Airport first and then take a train or bus on to Suzhou. It is quite convenient since Suzhou is located on the Jinghu Railway linking Shanghai and Nanjing—a line that as of 2007 includes new express trains that can make the trip in a little over half an hour. There are many other classes of train running between Shanghai and Nanjing—check at the station for class and price. Normally, it should take between 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours to get to Suzhou from Shanghai. Note that last-minute tickets can be hard to come by, especially during holidays, so order in advance if possible.
Bus
Regional buses from Shanghai can also get you to Suzhou. There are two large regional bus stations at Zhongxing Lu and Shilong Lu, each providing more than 20 buses every day heading for Suzhou. It should cost a bit over 30 RMB and take about 1 1/2 hours, though highway traffic can sometimes slow things down. Tour buses in Shanghai departing from Shanghai Stadium make same-day return trips each day.
Boat
Located along the Grand Canal, Suzhou enjoys great water transportation from various cities along the Canal including Shanghai, Zhenjiang (in Jiangsu Province) and Hangzhou. Though it may not be the most comfortable way to go, it's affordable and an often charming way to go.
Suzhou is synonymous with silk, and the water town is especially well known for its embroidery and brocade. So, after a visit to the Suzhou Silk Museum or Suzhou Silk Factory (Suzhou Sichou Chang ) where you can learn enough to improve your bargaining position and avoid getting duped by phony material, head out into the town and start shopping. Vivid Song Dynasty-style brocades are a Suzhou specialty. The style, known variously as "Su embroidery," "Suzhou embroidery," and "boudoir embroidery"—the latter because it was traditionally practiced by young women awaiting marriage—involves vivid colors, intricate patterns, images of flowers, birds, characters and fine needlework. Developed over some 2,600 years, the contemporary art includes a unique double-sided embroidery style, and can be found adorning everything from petite handkerchiefs to room-spanning screens.
The city is also celebrated for its green Biluochun Tea (biluochun cha), which makes for an elegant and entertaining beverage—the slender, pointed green tea leaves are best served in a clear glass; as they absorb water they slowly drift down until they gracefully stand on end on the bottom of your glass, waving like grass in a light breeze as you sip your tea. The leaves are picked in early spring on the slopes of Biluo Shan (Biluo Mountain) near Taihu (Tai Lake), just to the west of Suzhou.
Other goods to seek out in Suzhou include the city's famed Ming Dynasty-style taohuawu New Year posters and Suzhou fans.
Guanqian Jie and Shilu Jie are pleasant pedestrian-only streets featuring a number of shops selling popular Suzhou wares; Lu Men and Huaihai Jie inside Xinqu (New District) are also good bets. Guangqian Jie's old silk shops—some go back over 100 years—are especially good if you're looking for clothing or fabric. Avoid small stands selling silk near major attractions, as they tend to be overpriced and occasionally push fake cloth. Shiquan Jie is good for souvenirs, and Huqiu Lu is known for its bridal veils and cameras. The best deals on pearls can be found in Hejiawan in Weitang Town at the Chinese Pearl Center not far from the railway station.
Suzhou is a great place for classical Chinese arts—especially the art of the garden (see Attractions for garden listings). In addition, Suzhou is home to excellent museums that can deepen appreciation of China's cultural heritage and make for nice breaks from touring gardens and temples. Classic Chinese performing arts are also well represented, with nightly performances of Chinese opera, folk dance, storytelling and theater taking place in the beautiful Garden of the Master of Nets and other spots around town.
Bars & Clubs
After several years' renovation, Guanqian Lu and Shiquan Jie have emerged as the places to go for entertainment, food and drink, and shopping. Guanqian Lu is a pleasant pedestrian area. Try Pulp Fiction for darts, billiards and chatty expats, check out Whiskey Jack's for live music or hop to any of the other bars along Shiquan Jie. The Shanghai success story Zapata's—a popular dance club/Tex-Mex restaurant better known for its tequila-fueled revelry and bar-top dancing than it is for its authentic Mexican food—now has a place in Suzhou overlooking Jinji Lake in the business district outside the old city center.
Performing Arts
In the spring and autumn months, you can catch performances of Chinese opera, folk dance and theater in the Garden of the Master of Nets every evening at 7:30. For a taste of Suzhou opera, try the Museum of Opera and Theatre. The local music known as ping tan—a male-female duo singing and playing traditional instruments—can be found at various spots around town, including at the Ping Tan Museum.
Museums & Galleries
The Suzhou Museum showcases ancient paintings, calligraphy, carvings and crafts, and its new wing, designed by native son I.M. Pei, pays homage to traditional Suzhou architecture while making a contemporary statement about China's present. More of Suzhou's rich cultural heritage can be found at the Museum of Opera & Theatre, the Silk Museum and explore Suzhou's history in silk at the Suzhou Silk Museum and Silk Embroidery Institute.
Festivals & Events
Try to catch a temple fair if you're in Suzhou at the right time—The Chang Men Temple Fair celebrates Ya Shenxian in mid-April (the fourteenth day of the Chinese lunar calendar's fourth month)—that's the day one of Taoism's Eight Immortals, Lu Dongbin, comes to town disguised as a mortal. In September and October, the Huqiu Temple Fair showcases folk arts, puppetry, traditional music, acrobatics and wrestling in celebration of the harvest season. The Suzhou Silk Tourist Festival runs from September 20th to 25th. Spring sees a slew of flower festivals in Suzhou city and in the surrounding water towns.