Just 70 km (43.5 mi) south of Hangzhou, atop a spiderweb of canals, sits the little city of Shaoxing (Shàoxīng, 绍兴). The home of Shaoxing wine, one of China's eight famous wines (think grain wines, not grape wines), this little burg is also known for its thousands of years worth of history, watertown beauty, and the number of artists and historical figures who have called it their home. City officials have sought to balance historical preservation and modern urban development in recent years, especially since the kickoff of the World Bank-sponsored Zhejiang Urban Renewal Project. For tourists, however, the lure lies entirely in Shaoxing's old-China feel.
While many of Shaoxing's sites are "doable" within a day, the city's charm warrants a good two or three days to get the best of Shaoxing's traditional black-tiled, whitewashed homes, ancient bridges and canals. Shaoxing is a fine place to relax (while sipping on some mellow Shaoxing wine, of course), and is worth more than a rushed look-see.
Sites of interest reach far back into China's ancient history. The Mausoleum of Yu the Great, a memorial to the legendary founder of the Xia Dynasty, was built in the 6th century AD, though it honors the man who reputedly founded China's first dynasty after taming a great flood over 4,000 years ago. More modern sites include the Former Residence of Zhou Enlai (Zhōu Enlái Zǔjū, 周恩来祖居), one of Communist China's most important first-generation officials, and the Former Residence of Qiu Jin (Qiū Jǐn Gùjū, 秋瑾故居), a feminist anti-Qing revolutionary executed at age 29.
Artists are also well represented in Shaoxing. One of China's most famous poets, Wang Xizhi, composed many famous works in and around Shaoxing, and the poet is now memorialized at the Orchid Pavilion (Lan Ting). Shaoxing-born dramatist, poet and painter Xu Wei's former studio (Qīngténg Shūwū, 青藤书屋) and the Lu Xun's Former Residence, one of China's most important modern writers maintain the old charm of Shaoxing and offer glimpses into some of China's great cultural figures.
Today, Shaoxing is also important in the international textile industry, with China Textile City, one of the largest markets of its kind, located in nearby Keqiao.
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History
In 2010, Shaoxing celebrated its 2,500th birthday, commemorating its establishment during the Spring and Autumn Period, when the King of the Yue Kingdom, Gou Jian, still smarting from a defeat at the hands of rival Wu Kingdom, had scholar-official Fan Li create a new capital at the site of Shaoxing, then called "Yue Chi."
Scattered, sometimes contradictory records exist of the Yue Kingdom, which differed in language and culture from its neighbors. An origin story of the Yue rulers, however, puts ties their lineage to the very legendary Xia Dynasty. According to the myth, the son of Yu the Great, Shao Kang, sent one of his sons to maintain his father's grave and the Yue state was founded.
Oracle bones suggest the Yue Kingdom competed not only with their Wu rivals, but also the Shang Dynasty, consider to be one of the "Chinese" dynasties before the beginning of the Spring and Autumn Period.
After a period of captivity in the Wu Kingdom following his defeat, Gou Jian was said to "lie on firewood and taste gall" (wò xīn cháng dǎn, 卧薪尝胆), not letting himself forget the humiliation of captivity and formulating his revenge. Deciding revenge was a dish best not served cold, he gathered local beauties including the now legendary Xi Shi for training to distract the Wu king. Said to be so beautiful that fishes seeing her would stop swimming and sink, Xi Shi succeeded in distracting the Wu king and ensured the revenge of Gou Jian and the destruction of Wu. Being lovers of femme fatales, Chinese historians dubbed her one of the "four beauties of China."
The city took on its modern name of Shaoxing during the Southern Song Dynasty, when the imperial capital moved there for less than two years before moving on to Hangzhou.
Climate
Shaoxing has a relatively mild climate, though summers can get hot and humid with temperatures as high as the 30s C (over 86° F) and humidity can put a biting edge on winter, though temperatures don't drop too low. March to June and September mark Shaoxing's rainy season. Late spring, early summer and fall are the ideal time for a Shaoxing visit.
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Getting around
Taxi
Taxis around Shaoxing start at RMB 7 for the first 2.5 km and add an additional RBM 2 for each additional kilometer.
Bus
Bus lines provide a cheaper alternative to taxis to some of Shaoxing's more distant sites like the Orchid Pavilion (Lan Ting).
Boat
Less a means of getting from here to there, more a means of just enjoying Shaoxing, the city's famous Wupeng boats (Wūpéng Chuán, 乌篷船) can be hired for rides around Shaoxing's canals or at sites like East Lake (Dōnghú, 东湖). Prices start around RMB 40 per boat.
To and from Shaoxing
Air
The nearest airport to Shaoxing is the Hangzhou Airport. Buses between the airport and Shaoxing stop at the Margaret Hotel (RMB 30) as well as the Jinghu Hotel in Keqiao (RMB 20).
For international travelers, the best airport may be Shanghai's Pudong Airport. In Shanghai, a shuttle runs to Shanghai South Bus Station (Shànghǎi Chángtú Kèyùn Nán Zhàn, 上海长途客运南站), which offers buses to Shaoxing.
Bus
The Shaoxing Passenger Transport Center (Shàoxīng Kèyùn Zhōngxīn Zhàn, 绍兴客运中心站) offers buses to and from a number of cities in the Yangtze Valley region including Ningbo (RMB 47), Hangzhou (RMB 25) and Shanghai (RMB 80).
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While many of Shaoxing's cultural traditions can only follow you home in photography form, two of them can actually go back with you.
One of the "eight famous wines of China," Shaoxing Yellow Rice Wine (Shàoxīng Huáng Jiǔ, 绍兴黄酒) is well known among Chinese for its mild flavor, though some Westerners may find less complimentary adjectives to describe the sticky-rice-and-wheat-yeast-brewed alcohol, which is traditionally served warm.
A sign of a Shaoxing gentlemen wherever he roamed, the traditional Shaoxing black felt cap (Wūzhān Mào, 乌毡帽) is a peaked cap similar in appearance to a Bavarian or Tyrolean hat. While the young turks of Shaoxing aren't doffing the traditional caps, it's not hard to spot Shaoxing's older set donning their traditional headwear.
The cheaper version of these hats can be bought at almost any shop, though a crease resulting from the bowl-like shape they're kept in before purchasing doesn't come out easily. If you like the look of one on your noggin, spend a bit more on a nicer, crease-free model.
In addition to Shaoxing's aforementioned traditional souvenirs and the usual assortment of Chinese-style trinkets, Shaoxing is an important hub in the international textile trade. The textile market in Shaoxing, China Textile City, is one of the world's largest and has retail and wholesale shopping.
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Yue Opera
Originating in Shengzhou (Shèngzhōu, 嵊州), a town considered part of Shaoxing, around 1906, Yue Opera (Yuèjù, 越剧) developed from a local form of musical storytelling. In contrast to traditionally all-male Beijing Opera, Yue Opera traditionally uses an all-female cast (though male-female productions do happen) and focuses on romantic tales like a love story from one of China's great epics Dream of Red Mansions (Hóng Lóu Mèng, 红楼梦). Shaoxing Grand Theatre offers regular performances of this local art form.
Festivals & events
On the third day of the third month, Shaoxing's Orchid Pavilion (Lan Ting) celebrates the Orchid Pavilion Calligraphy Festival with calligraphy exhibits and contests. The event celebrates the legacy of famous calligrapher Wang Xizhi at the site marking his most famous work, which celebrated a gathering on the same celebrated date in the year 353.
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