Sandy white beaches, lush jungle and swaying palm trees—Hainan Island has them all in abundance, and Sanya (Sānyà, 三亚), on the southern coast, is the best place to base yourself for swimming, water sports and sun bathing. Stay at one of the new Sanya luxury hotels along the gorgeous coastline, find budget accommodation in town or hobnob with the backpacking set at one of a number of pleasant hostels (see Sanya hotels for more). Wherever you stay, however you won't be far from the water. You can join the crowds on the popular beaches of Yalong Bay, visit Buddhist temples or linger in tropical gardens and see rare Macaque monkeys on Nanwan Monkey Island.
If you're after a little privacy and a more pristine beach experience, hire a driver, ride a bicycle or take a taxi to one of the island's more remote spots. Today, what was quite recently a quiet fishing port has become home to luxury resort hotels like the Marriot, Resort Horizon, Intercontinental Sanya and the Ritz-Carlton, just to name a few. Although a bit sleepy and sparsely populated by Chinese standards, there's plenty to do in Sanya when you're not lounging by the surf—the bustling night markets are a must and there are a growing number of restaurants, bars and clubs to help you relax after a hard day at the beach.
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History
It might be hard to believe, but balmy Hainan Island was once place of exile and imprisonment. For hundreds of years, during the Tang, Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties (618-1644), outlaws and outcasts were shipped from the mainland to do time in the heat of what is today, with the benefit of air conditioning and modern medicine, quite a pleasant place to spend, rather than do, time.
During the 1920s and 1930s, Communists who escaped Kuomintang forces on the mainland made Hainan a base of operations, later fighting the Japanese, who occupied the island during World War II.
After the Communist victory in 1949, Hainan remained largely undeveloped. In 1988, that all began to change, as it was declared a Special Economic Zone. Since then, tourism and industry have invigorated the economy of this tropical enclave. Sanya's fascinating mix of traditional Han Chinese and ethnic minority cultures—the Li people make up roughly 16% of the population, with Zhuang and Miao communities adding to the mix—creates a city teeming with rich art and dance traditions. Buddhism, which reached Hainan's shores during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), remains the dominant influence in the province's culture and folk art.
Climate
Sharing the same latitude as Hawaii, Sanya has a tropical monsoon climate with warm weather throughout the year. Temperatures rise in March through November, with monthly averages ranging between 25-28ºC (77-80ºF). May through October, monsoon season brings short daily rains. The best time to visit Sanya is from March to May or October to November when the Chinese New Year and Christmas crowds are gone and rain becomes less frequent.
Hainan guide | Sanya guide | Sanya attractions | Sanya flights
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There are still a few dirt-cheap hotels in Sanya though the majority run into the middle and high-end price range, so check out some Sanya hotels and take your pick. Hostels are a good bet for backpackers and budget travelers, though they can fill up fast, so try to reserve in advance. The Red Coral Seaview Hotel in Dadonghai might be the cheapest place on the beach, but rooms can be quite grimy. A better budget bet would be Sanya Eagle Backpackers Hostel, Sanya Blue Sky International Youth Hostel or one of the other hostels that have popped up in recent years. They're great places to find an instant traveler community and insider tips from staff on where to go and what to do on the cheap.
As for the high end, though Hainan Island is billed as "China's Hawaii," Sanya is hardly Honolulu. By Western resort standards, the city itself is a bit grubby, so most vacationers stay either right near the beach in Dadonghai or in one of the new luxury resorts in Yalong Bay, just a few minutes' taxi or bus ride away from the city. Despite the island's rough edges, luxury accommodations are in no short supply and are generally new and of high quality. Favorites include Marriott Sanya Resort & Spa, Yuhai Binguan, the Horizon Resort & Spa, Resort Golden Palm, the Intercontinental Sanya and the Ritz-Carlton to name a few.
Hainan guide | Sanya guide | Sanya attractions | Sanya flights
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The food of Hainan resembles China's southern cuisine, with special use of the island's seafood and fruits, such as bananas, coconuts, mangoes and sugar cane.
A local favorite to try, if you're brave, is the Wenchang chicken (Wénchāng jī, 文昌鸡); a sort-of stir-fry made from chicken liver, ham, vegetables, sugar and white wine. It's available at most of the city's Hainan restaurants. Sanya is well-known for its numerous seafood restaurants such as Suan Long Seafood Restaurant, but it is also growing a great number of excellent Hunan, Dongbei, Sichuan, Yunnan and Guizhou eateries to cater to the diverse tourist population.
Two of the cities favorite restaurants are Nanshan Hotpot City and Dongbeiwang Restaurant which provide excellent alternatives to Sanya's many local seafood restaurants. Be aware that restaurants frequented by tourists have been known to take advantage of foreigners so make sure you confirm the price of the dish before ordering.
Food can get expensive inside hotels or in tourist areas, so if you're on a budget, seek out cheaper meals in the food stalls at Sanya's markets or along Jichang Dong Lu. For the city's best treat, chop the top off a coconut and stick in a straw—a refreshing drink for just RMB 2.
Hainan guide | Sanya guide | Sanya attractions | Sanya flights
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Getting Around
Taxis offer convenient transport between destinations, however, travelers must negotiate a price before setting off. Flagfall should begin at RMB 5. Sanya's double-decker tourist bus service includes three main lines running from Yalong Bay to Tianyahaijiao, via Sanya City and Nanshan (RMB 4-8). Pedicabs are banned in Sanya, but rogue motorcyclists still operate. Make sure you bargain beforehand and be careful: some motorbikers have been known to speed in order to avoid the authorities. Some travelers choose to rent private cars and most hotels offer a car rental service. Most car rentals require a RMB 5,000 refundable deposit, an ID card, return air ticket and Chinese driving license. Rates are usually based on current gasoline prices. If you do manage to get behind the wheel, take a drive down Binghai Lu (Bīnhǎi Lù, 滨海路), a beautiful 30-minute stretch of sun, sand, and sea. Stop along the way at one of the area's seafood restaurants.
To and from Sanya
Air
Sanya Phoenix Airport lies 20 km (12 mi) from the city center, offering Sanya flights to 23 domestic destinations including Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenyang, Wuhan, Qingdao and Shenzhen. International Sanya flights include Singapore, Macau, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, and Tokyo. New arrivals can take a taxi (around RMB 30—make sure to ask the driver to take Yanhai Lu, which follows the beautiful coastline) or a bus to Sanya Bay or Dadonghai (RMB 15). The airport bus's terminus is on Jiefang Yi Lu in the city center.
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Sanya has a great many high-end department stores and most of the area's hotels all include expensive boutiques. The most popular souvenirs taken home by tourists home are saltwater pearls, crystal ware, butterfly specimens, carved coconuts, candies, dried tropical fruit and seafood, coffee, tea and pepper.
The influx of tourism has raised prices, sometimes to sucker levels, so make sure to bargain. Souvenirs in the hotels cost much more than what can be found on the street or the beach—so don't be afraid to venture out and haggle for a better price. Also keep an eye out for fake pearls and remember the tooth test! (Rub the pearls on your teeth—if they're gritty and not perfectly smooth, they're real.)
Sanya recently unveiled a Duty Free Store downtown selling luxury and brand name products—everything from leather bags to perfume. And the Duty Free shop is set to expand out of Sanya Town further west to the massive new Haitang Bay (Hǎitáng Wān, 海棠湾) project.
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As you'd expect, the beach is at the heart of Sanya's social scene. The upscale beach hotels are home to the city's townier bars and dance floors, though they're not necessarily the most fun—the beach scene and city itself are both cheaper and more likely to give you a night to remember. Your best bet for a night out is to follow your nose, check out open-air restaurants and bars and mingle until you find the party... or it finds you.
Bars & Clubs
As dusk deepens, people hit the streets for a breath of cool evening air and a bit of sociable mingling. Open-air restaurants abound and are a good place to start an evening's revelries. Sanya's high end resort and hotels offer nightly entertainment, dancing and DJs.
Sports & Recreation
Sanya may be the best place to scuba dive and snorkel in China. Underwater visibility ranges up to twenty-some meters, depending on conditions (generally at least as good as an average day in Beijing, and with far cleaner air). Scuba training is available at a number of spots. Other popular beach activities are also on tap, from surfing to volleyball to parasailing to jet skiing. Be aware that local safety standards, while generally more than adequate, tend not to be up to the obsessive level often encountered in the West. Some will find this refreshing, others may find it less so.
Museums & Galleries
Sanya is home to China's largest private museum: The Sanya Zhuoyuetianya Museum of Paleontologic Fossils (Sānyà Zhuóyuè Tiānyá Gǔshēngwù Huàshí Bówùguǎn, 三亚卓越天涯古生物化石博物馆) contains more than 300 fossils, including some impressive dinosaur bones (great for the kids). There's also a smaller Shell Museum (Bèiké Bówùguǎn, 贝壳博物馆) located in east Yalong Bay. Most of the shells can be found either on the beach or at the countless number of gift shops located in the area, but check it out if you'd like to see them all at once and on display.
Festivals & Events
Sanya is home to an increasing array of festivals and glitzy events, from frequent Miss World pageants to the World's Strongest Man competition to the curious annual mass-wedding Ends of the Earth Marriage Festival. In November, crews from around the world compete in the Sanya Sailing Race on the waters of Dadonghai Bay. Getting off the beach, the September Nan Shan Mountain Culture Festival celebrates health and longevity with dance performances, mountain climbing and Tai-chi exhibitions among other activities. A new entry to the island's annual schedule is the April Yalong Bay Beach Jazz Festival, and more events promise to develop as Sanya solidifies its reputation as China's tropical playground.
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