Once the financial center of China and birthplace of the first Chinese bank "Rishengchang," 18th century Pingyao (Píngyáo, 平遥) was China's "Wall Street," with large banks and exchange houses fueling the wealth necessary to build up the city's imposing walls, gates and grand residences, most of which are still extant in their original condition today.
As a result, the city offers surreal, movie-set like immersion into an Imperial Chinese atmosphere visitors often find highly transporting. With its extraordinary number of ancient sites both in and around the city, and well-preserved city walls, Pingyao was deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
About 80 km from the provincial capital, Taiyuan, Pingyao still retains much of its Ming and Qing dynasty layout, one adhering to the classic bā guà (八卦) pattern, based on the eight symbols of Taoist cosmology. If a walk through living history is your cup of cha, there may be no better place; preserved Ming- and Qing-style residences number close to 4,000; while streets and storefronts still largely retain their historical appearances from 300 to 1,000 years ago. Many of these historical structures now serve as Pingyao's hotels and guesthouses, steeping them in historical charm.
The Zhangbi Underground Caves, walks along the Pingyao city walls, and Wang Family Courtyard are all highlights, but with such a wealth of historical attractions you'll find plenty to fill up 2-4 days before moving on to other sights in Shanxi Province such as the hanging temples of Mian Shan (Cotton Mountain), the Buddist grottoes of Datong, or the sacred peaks of Heng Shan (Mt. Heng).
History
With a history going way, way back to the Spring and Autumn Period, Pingyao truly gained prevalence as China's financial heart in the late Qing dynasty, when its 20-plus financial institutions represented more than half of China's financial community.
During the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, Pingyao's wealthy exchange houses gave rise to a powerful business class earning the moniker of "Shanxi" or "Jin" businessmen.
Of course, such wealth makes an alluring prize, and so the city had to be fortified. Pingyao's walls were first built in the 3rd year of the Ming Dynasty's Hongwu Emperor (1370). The wall's six barbicans, with their four-legs, head-and-tail-like deployment earned Pingyao its present nickname of "turtle city." Today, these 12 m high (40 ft) walls create a 6 km (3.7 mi) perimeter around the city, with a 4 m (13 ft) wide, 4 m deep moat providing an additional layer of defense.
In 2004, southern sections of the walls collapsed but were hastily reconstructed. However, the rest of Pingyao's walls, with their 3,000 battlements and 72 watchtowers, are largely intact, and as such represent some of the best-preserved ancient city walls on this scale in China, earning Pingyao a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list today.
Climate
Situated in the central Shanxi plateau, Pingyao's climate is rather arid, but fluctuates greatly between winter and summer. Winters are long, dry, and cold, with temperatures occasionally dipping below 0° C (31° F), while summers are warm and humid.
Due to arid conditions, springtime often heralds the arrival of dust storms. Shanxi is one of the sunniest parts of China; early summer heat waves are common, but June to August also see the year's largest amounts of rain. Best time to travel: June to October.
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Pingyao's UNESCO World Heritage Status has definitely drawn a lot of attention. The downside is some overcrowding during long weekends and peak travel days, but the upside a very healthy selection of hotels and hostels to choose from.
The Zhengjia International Youth Hostel, offers airport pickup services, single to five-person rooms, and has an enjoyable Qing Dynasty/bohemian atmosphere (if you can imagine it) with a comely courtyard where you can enjoy omelettes, pizzas, pastas and other comfort foods as well as local Chinese favorites.
For a surprisingly affordable 4-star steeped in history, try the Pingyao Tianyuankui Guesthouse, and for the cream of the crop, try the Yunjincheng Folk Hotel, a 5-star with over 300 years of history behind it. For everything else, check out these Pingyao hotels .
Shanxi guide | Pingyao guide | Pingyao attractions
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Pingyaoren like their noodles, steamed breads, buckwheat rolls, yams and braised Pingyao beef (beef from this region is renowned for its quality) and you'll find plenty of these and their derivatives being hawked street-side all over town.
However, due to the heavily tourist-oriented nature of the economy, many of the restaurants in town serve underwhelming food at overwhelming prices. Taking a trip outside the city gates, especially the West Gate, is a good way to ease the strain on your pocketbook.
Shanxi guide | Pingyao guide | Pingyao attractions
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Getting Around
Pedicab
The base rate for pedicabs is RMB 2-5 per person for the first 2 km. If it's more than two kilometers, you may negotiate with the wheeler. If you hire a pedicab to visit the scenic spots, it usually costs RMB 5 per hour or RMB 40 a day (8 hours).
Bicycle Rental
Bicycles are for rental in the Ancient City Bicycle Rental Center at No. 19 Beiguan Dajie. The price is between RMB 5-12 per hour depending on the types of the bicycles. You may also choose to be charged by half a day or day, which will be a little cheaper.
Others
The base rate for minibuses is RMB 3 for the first two kilometers and then 1 RMB per additional kilometer
The base rate for ordinary cars is RMB 6 for the first three kilometers and then 1 RMB per additional kilometer while for better cars it is RMB 12 for the first three kilometers and then RMB 2 per additional kilometer.
The base rate for motorized tricycles is 2 RMB for the first two kilometers. For longer distance, you may negotiate with the rider.
To and from Pingyao
Air
The nearest airport to Pingyao is Taiyuan Airport. Taiyuan airport is about 18 km from Taiyuan downtown, about half an hour drive. There are buses to Pingyao taking about two hours from the long-distance bus station on Yingze Dajie of Taiyuan. Click the following link, to see Ctrip's Taiyuan Flights Schedule.
Train
Pingyao Railway Station is located in the northwest of the county. It takes about 5-10 minutes from Pingyao Railway Station to the ancient city by pedicab. Tongpu Railway line (from Datong to Fenglingdu) passes through Pingyao from the south to the north and connects it with Taiyuan and Shijiazhuang to the north and Linfen and Yuncheng to the south. There are direct trains from Beijing, Taiyuan and Xian to Pingyao.
Bus
Datong-Yuncheng Highway goes through Pingyao which means you can reach Pingyao driving from Beijing (650 km), although it'll take you at least 7 hours, and almost as long from Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Xian (550 km), Kaifeng or Luoyang. The journey from Pinyao to Taiyuan (110 km) lasts about 2 hours, where you can transfer to a bus going on to many other major cities.
Shanxi guide | Pingyao guide | Pingyao attractions
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