Over the centuries, Luoyang of Henan province has been called many things: Chengzhou, Luoyi, Luozhou, Dongdu, Xijing and Jingluo; but is less formally known as the City of Peony or the Cradle of Chinese Civilization. Name changes and claims to fame aside, today's Luoyang is an important industrial and cultural center with a population of around 6.5 million.
The city is located to the west of Zhengzhou, China's transportation hub, which makes getting there a breeze; however, finding reasons to stay can be a little more difficult as Luoyang's tourism appeal has been marred by problems with pollution. To the local government's credit, efforts have been made which have significantly reduced the year on year pollution levels, to such and extent that Luoyang has found itself on the travel itinerary of more and more tourists.
History
In the 11th century BC, the Duke of Zhou established the town and named it Chengzhou; it became a sort of refugee camp for remnants of the defeated Shang peoples. The city would later become the capital of the Zhou Dynasty, an honor which would last a little over 200 years, until it was destroyed by civil war. It was rebuilt the following year.
It was later named as capital of both the Eastern Han Dynasty and the Wei Dynasty and ransacked frequently. All that set up their capitals in Luoyang were eventually defeated or forced to move to more defendable locations around China.
Climate
Luoyang has good weather most of the year: spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Summer temperatures average around 33°C (91°F). If you plan a winter visit, expect temperatures around freezing point.
Backpackers might want to try out the Tianxiang Fandian (56 Jinguyuan Lu) for cheap dorm beds. Slightly better rooms can be found at the International Youth Hostel Mingyuan (Luoyang Mingyuan Guoji Qingnian Lvshe) on Jiefang Lu, where good standard rooms can be had for less than RMB 150 a night.
The Luoyang Grand Hotel (1 Zhoushan Road) or Peony City Hotel (Mudan Cheng Fandian) are good choices for travelers who prefer a little luxury.
Centuries of prominence and outside influence has lead Luoyang to be a veritable culinary capital of central China. The city's most popular dish, river carp, is not only delicious, but also appealing in appearance. The cheaper choices are Zhangji Roast Chicken and Sour and Spicy Soup. For those with a bit of time on their hands, or those traveling in group, the Water Banquet (Luoyang Shuixi)—a 24 course banquet of dishes served in soup—is not to be missed. Try it at the Baxiangong Restaurant near Luolong Dajie. Another interesting side to Luoyang dining is brought about by the mix of Han and Muslim (Xinjiang) people here, giving much of the food a certain Muslim piquancy. Kebabs and Muslim noodles can be found in almost every small restaurant bearing Muslim script.
Like most cities in China, the railway station in Luoyang is the place enjoy good cheap food. Of the many places around town, the restaurants on the left side of the Tianxiang Hotel (Tianxiang Binguan), just down the road from the railway station, serve some of the best dishes with both an English menu and cheap prices. There is also a good restaurant at number 4 Anhui Lu, Ya Xiang Lou, that has some good chicken with fruit, stir fried beancurd and fried rice, all for under RMB 20. The nicest of the Luoyang restaurants is also near here. HM on Zhongzhou Zhonglu, oozes exotic charm and has some tasty dishes for which you will have to pay more, around RMB 50 a person.
Getting Around
Taxi
The base rate for taxis is RMB 6 for the first three kilometers and then RMB 1 per additional kilometer. Luoyang is not a big city; so you can take a taxi around the whole city for about RMB 20.
Tour Bus
Tour buses to the Longmen Grottoes, Baima Temple and Shaolin Temple are available in front of the Luoyang Railway Station. You can make a round trip within a day. The buses usually leave in the morning.
To and From Luoyang
Air
Luoyang Beijiao Airport is located 10 km northwest of the downtown area with flights to and from Guangzhou, Chengdu, Dalian, Kunming, Shanghai and Beijing. It costs about RMB 20 from the airport to downtown by taxi.
Train
Luoyang Railway Station is located on Daonan Xi Lu north of the city, while Luoyang East Railway Station is located on Datong Lu in the Chanhe Hui Nationality District in Luoyang. The Longhai Railway runs through the middle of Luoyang, stretching eastwards to Xi'an and westward to Zhengzhou and Kaifeng. The Jiaozhi Railway line runs through the city from the north to the south, which goes south to Xiangfan in Hubei Province.
Bus
There is a freeway starting from Luoyang via Zhengzhou stretching towards Kaifeng and also a freeway connecting Luoyang with Tongguan via Sanmenxia. National highways No. 207 and 310 also go through Luoyang.
The Luoyang Bus Station is located opposite Luoyang Jinguyuan Railway Station with long-distance buses to places both inside and outside the province and nearby counties as well.
Luoyang is famous for its peonies (the currently unofficial Chinese national flower), which are found all over the city. While these flowers are not yet recognised as the national flower, they are the official symbol of Luoyang. For those after handicrafts, the Tang Dynasty three-colour glazed pottery copies are a good buy. For tea connoisseurs, a taste of the pure and crisp Xinyang tea should not be missed, made from leaves of some of China's most unsullied land.
The Guangzhou Market, located in the busiest section of the city, is one of the largest department stores in the province. It is a good place to get virtually anything if you are planning to go further to the more deserted west. The Arts and Craft Store on Zhongzhou Lu sells imitation palace lanterns and replicas of Shang bronzes. Upstairs, you can also purchase some of the aforementioned glazed pottery horses and camels. Another similar venue is the Antique Store in the Old Town God's Temple (Chenghuang Miao).
Luoyang is not the most exciting of places for those after a bit of light relief, but this is not such a problem since most travelers are only here for the sights and historical ambience. Nightlife is limited and, apart from spending your time drinking in pleasant restaurants about town, most of the clubs and pubs are situated in the hotels. Some of the outdoor restaurants near the railway station, on Jinguyuan Lu, serve a nice and cheap draught beer.
Chinese tourists manage to enjoy themselves, satisfied by their versions of ultra-modern entertainment (some of which are blasphemously housed in a few of the ancient constructions). The Eight Immortals Palace on Luolong Lu is another replica of Disneyland (making use of the famous Chinese mythology featuring eight immortals), which applies modern laser and sound facilities to make patrons feel as if they were contemporaries of the immortals. The Laser shooting city on Shachang Xilu is another exciting place; tourists can live out their wildest wartime fantasies with laser guns rather than live ammunition.