Lhasa (Lāsà, 拉萨) is, quite simply, the heart and soul of the Tibetan Autonomous Region— its cultural capital and political and administrative center.
Situated in a valley at around 3,700 m (11,100 ft) above sea level, Lhasa is surrounded by high mountains, with the scenic Kyichu River flowing right through town and the unmistakable Potala Palace— the former chief residence of the Dalai Lama—dominating the skyline.
While the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway has made the region more accessible in recent years, it's also sparked rapid modernization and a massive growth in tourism. A major consequence of this is an increase in the high-rises, karaoke bars and other expressions of Chinese economic growth springing up in increasing numbers, especially in the western part of town, which now dwarfs the Tibetan quarter.
Nevertheless, the Tibetan influence is fortunately still strong and evident in the eastern end and older parts of Lhasa, particularly in the main areas of interest around the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Circuit where traditionally-clad Tibetans can be found spinning prayer wheels, prostrating on the ground and going about their Buddhist business.
Other major attractions include the Sera and Drepung Monasteries located on Lhasa's outskirts, where scarlet-robed monks can be seen chanting prayers amidst the intoxicating scent of flickering yak-butter lamps.
Dynamic and vibrant, mysterious and exotic, Lhasa's unexpected and otherworldly sights still make a visit to this soulful capital very much worth the journey.
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History
Lhasa's official history began in the 7th century with its establishment as capital by King Songtsen Gampo, the first ruler of a united Tibet and the region's first prominent convert to Buddhism.
Over the next several hundred years, Lhasa became a major Buddhist pilgrimage site but its political importance dwindled until 1645 when Lobsang Gyatso, the fifth Dalai Lama, began rebuilding the massive Potala Palace and re-established Lhasa as a political center.
After experiencing a high degree of autonomy during the chaos of two World Wars and civil unrest in China, Tibet finally fell under direct Chinese control in 1950 with the invasion of the Communist People's Liberation Army.
The Cultural Revolution (1966-1976) then caused mass upheaval with the destruction of many Buddhist temples, monasteries and shrines. Numerous Tibetans perished from violence and famine and others chose to leave, including the Dalai Lama who has remained in exile ever since.
While Lhasa remains the vital heart of Tibetan culture, rapid development and the influx of Chinese settlers have dramatically altered the face of the city in recent years.
Climate
Lhasa has a semi-arid monsoon climate with cold winters, mild summers and an average temperature of around 8°C (46°F). Spring and winter are dry and windy, and winter temperatures, while usually not severe, frequently drop below freezing.
Autumn and summer (March- October) are generally considered the best months to visit, with more comfortable temperatures and less dry conditions. While the rainy season (May- September) also falls during this time, precipitation usually occurs during the night.
No matter what the season, Lhasa frequently experiences sudden temperature fluctuations within a single day. There is also often a significant difference between day and night time temperatures. It's therefore wise to come prepared with warm clothing, even during the summer months.
Also note that the sun's rays are intensified due to the high elevation and thin air. Sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat and good sunglasses are advisable.
It's important to keep in mind that Lhasa's high altitude and low oxygen levels may cause potentially fatal mountain sickness and serious discomfort in some people. Travelers should avoid strenuous activity and keep well hydrated until properly acclimatized.
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Lhasa's hotels and hostels are plentiful, with many concentrated around the old city and the Barkhor, an ideal location from which to explore the city's major attractions, restaurants and night spots.
Many accomodation options such as the Dongcuo International Youth Hostel cater to travelers on a budget and provide inexpensive lodging in great locales. The Yak Hotel on Běijīng Dōng Lù [北京东路; (86 891) 632 3496], formerly a budget hotel, is a Lhasa favourite and now a good mid-range option.
If you're looking for a little luxury to go with stunning views and Tibetan charm, the unusual 5-star Brahmaputra Grand Hotel in Yangcheng Plaza (Yángchéng Guǎngchǎng, 阳城广场) and the House of Shambhala are good bets.
It's worth being aware that prices and amenities in Lhasa's hotels vary widely and low-to-mid-range options may lack heating. Be sure to check before making reservations—you may want to bring a sleeping bag or head elsewhere.
Altitude sickness is another key concern so it's advisable to check whether your hotel supplies oxygen—some offer oxygen tanks to help recent arrivals cope.
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Lhasa has a surprising selection of international restaurants and cuisine, including Western, Indian, Nepalese and Chinese cuisines.
But Tibetan food will probably interest first-time visitors the most. Local favorites include thukpa (noodle soup), momos (dumplings), bo cha (Tibetan butter tea), tsampa (a staple made of roasted barley flour) and various dishes made of yak meat. The dried variety is also sold in supermarkets and can be seen hanging from verandas around Lhasa. Balep (Tibetan bread), probably the densest bread on the planet, pairs well with sweet jam and cha ngarmo (sweet tea) for a hearty breakfast.
Most of the Lhasa's restaurants can be found in the city center on either Barkhor Street, along Běijīng Lù (北京路) and within walking distance of the Jokhang. Food in Lhasa, even in the nicest of restaurants, is generally reasonably priced so travelers on a budget don't have to go hungry.
If you're looking for yak meat, the Crazy Yak Saloon on Běijīng Dōng Lù (北京东路) is worth a try, while the Tashi Restaurant, in the same area, is a Lhasa favorite and serves a variety of Tibetan dishes. For higher-end international and Tibetan cuisine, head to the Snowlands Restaurant on Zàngyīyuàn Lù (藏医院路).
Duǒsēngé Lù (朵森格路) hosts a number of snack carts as well as a vibrant night market in the evenings. Locally owned restaurants also serve delicious regional food here at reasonable prices. If you're out and about, this is the place to pick up a snack of fried momos filled with meat or vegetables.
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Around Lhasa
It's possible to visit most sights in Lhasa's Tibetan quarter and around the Jokhang on foot. However if you're going a bit further afield, a number of transportation options are available.
Bus
Non-scheduled mini-buses and jeeps with fixed lines are everywhere and cost only RMB 2 per person. Most stop at the Tibet Hospital in Jokhang Square (Dàzhāosì Guǎngchǎng, 大昭寺广场) and ply routes to nearby sites such as Norbulinka and the Drepung and Sera Monasteries. However you'd better confirm your destination before getting on.
Taxi
Lhasa has a large number of taxis for its size. RMB 10 is the standard fare for anywhere within the city limits. However taxis are not metered, so if you're heading further out of the city, remember to negotiate with the driver before getting in.
Pedicab
This is a good way to take in the scenery at a more leisurely pace. Prices should be negotiated before starting out, but short-haul journeys cost around RMB 3-7.
Bike/ Car Rental
The healthiest (and most Buddha-pleasing) way to get around the city is by bicycle. Most hotels offer bike rentals which generally cost around RMB 30 per day. Lhasa is notorious for bike thieves so if you'll be parking for any length of time, make sure you have a lock.
You can also rent a car at one of Lhasa's many automobile companies or travel agencies. Fees rage from RMB 3-8 per kilometer, depending on the vehicle, the route and possibly the season. Note that tourists are not allowed to drive rental vehicles in Tibet.
To and from Lhasa
As of April, 2013, the Tibet Tourism Bureau loosened the restrictions on travel to Tibet which were imposed in June, 2012. This means Tibet is once more open to foreign travelers. However, you'll still have to book your trip through a travel agency and apply for a Tibet Travel Permit (TTB Permit) prior to your journey.
Air
Lhasa Gonggar Airport [Lāsà Gònggá Jīchǎng, 拉萨贡嘎机场; (86 891) 6246 465] is located in Gonggar County around 62 km (39 mi) south of downtown Lhasa. Shuttle buses are available to and from the airport (1 hour, 10 minutes; RMB 25). Otherwise take a taxi (45 minutes, RMB 100-150).
New routes are opening all the time, but the airport currently offers flights to major cities in China including Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Chongqing, Xi'an, Guangzhou, Lanzhou, Xining, Kunming and Chengdu as well as regional destinations like Chamdo, Ngari and Nyingtri. International flights to Kathmandu, Nepal, are also available.
Train
Lhasa Railway Station is the terminus of the great Qinghai-Tibet Railway (Qingzing Railway) which was completed in 2006. Trains travel between Lhasa and Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Xining, Golmud, Lanzhou, Shanghai and Guangzhou.
Bus
With the construction of the railway, sleeper buses from Lhasa have become a much less desirable form of transport. Nevertheless, Lhasa has four long-distance bus stations offering services to different destinations. The main station [(86 891) 6824 469] can be found at the intersection of Mínzú Lù (民族路) and Jīnzhū Zhōng Lù (金珠中路), facing the Monument of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. Buses run from here to Golmud, Chengdu, Xi'an and Kathmandu, as well as various locations within Tibet including Chamdo, Shigatse and Gyantse.
Note that an Alien Travel Permit (PSB Permit) is required to travel to most regions outside Lhasa.
Also be aware that road conditions in Lhasa vary and some routes should be avoided in bad weather.
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Lhasa isn't best known as a shopping destination, but if you come for the culture, you might as well stay for the shopping.
For souvenirs and crafts, head to the Barkhor and the surrounding area which is full of stalls selling all manner of things from prayer wheels to colorful aprons, carved jade, gold and silver and enormous Tibetan horns.
Be aware that many of the products here are actually imported from Nepal. Be sure to bargain, compare prices and beware of fakes.
It's worth keeping an eye out for traditional beads and silver jewellery, carved wooden bowls, fur hats and thangkas —intricate scroll paintings featuring Buddhist motifs. In particular check small stores or workshops in the backstreets surrounding the Barkhor. For thangkas also head to the popular Barkhor Thangka Painting Department Store on Barkhor Street.
Many tourists also find themselves interested in homeopathic Tibetan medicine and herbs. Vendors are everywhere, but the best place to purchase such remedies is in the Tibetan Hospital across the street from Jokhang Temple (Dazhao Si).
The usual knock-off clothing, DVDs and high-tech gear can also be found at any of the downtown shopping malls.
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Bars & clubs
For a drink, the easiest bet is often one of the city's hotel bars. You may also like to head to the Music Kitchen on Běijīng Xī Lù (北京西路) which serves reasonably priced drinks and features live music on the weekends. Café-bar Ganglamedo also has atmosphere and a good range of alcoholic beverages.
If you're up for a bit more of an adventure, check out one of the local nangma joints—nangma is a Tibetan dance music that combines disco, Tibetan folk music and occasionally karaoke. These can be a bit tricky to find, but JJ's Nangma on Potala Square (Bùdálāgōng Guǎngchǎng, 布达拉宫广场) is well established and a good place to start.
Performing arts
If you're in town for a few days, you should be able to find some Tibetan dance, opera or music at a number of hotels and restaurants around Lhasa—though often under rather controlled and chaperoned conditions, which put a bit of a damper on authentic expression of folk culture.
The Shöl Opera Troupe performs various Tibetan Operas nightly at the Himalaya Hotel on Línkuò Dōng Lù (林廓东路). Otherwise check the Potala, Lhasa and Kirey hotels for more options.
You can also inquire about upcoming shows at the Tibetan Dance & Drama Theatre on Mínzú Zhōng Lù (民族中路), though performances have been rare of late.
Museums & galleries
While the whole of Lhasa may seem like one big open-air museum, there is an actual museum here as well. The Tibet Museum, completed in 1999, houses a number of artifacts and relics as well as folk handicrafts and thangkas—intricate paintings depicting Buddhist themes. However, take this presentation of Tibet's history with several large grains of salt. This museum is worth a look if you have an extra day or if the weather's bad.
For modern Tibetan art check out the Gedun Choephel Artists' Guild, an exhibition hall located in the Barkhor.
Temples & religious sites
Lhasa is literally packed with temples and religious sights. First on the list is the imposing Potala Palace, the former abode of the Dalai Lama. Visible from virtually all over the city, the Potala houses a labyrinth of chapels and halls, religious scrolls, art and jewels and the tombs of many Dalai Lamas past. The uphill hike to the palace with the pilgrims is well worth the effort.
Be sure to wander the Barkhor circuit which surrounds the Jokhang Temple, the most important temple in Tibetan Buddhism and the heart and soul of Lhasa. Here traditionally-clad Tibetans can be seen circumambulating the Jokhang while swinging prayers wheels and prostrating on the ground. You can also pick up souvenirs and all manner of things at the Barkhor's many market stalls before exploring the halls and chapels of the Jokhang.
The Sera Monastery and the Drepung Monastery—the largest in Tibet—are both located on the outskirts of Lhasa and well worth a visit. You can wander the grounds of these large monasteries and view sights of scarlet-robed monks chanting in darkened chapels amidst flickering butter lamps or going about their monastic business.
Festivals & events
If you're fortunate enough to visit Lhasa during a Tibetan festival, you're in for a treat. The festivals are really the best chance a tourist has to witness authentic traditional expressions of Buddhist faith and Tibetan life and the atmosphere in town should be fun and lively.
Losar, the Tibetan New Year, is usually held in February. Celebrations including barley beer toasts, exchanges of gifts of food, pilgrimages and religious ceremonies can last up to 15 days. During this period flights to Lhasa are often suspended, "officially" because it's the low point in the tourist year; we'll have to excuse you if you draw a different conclusion.
The Shoton Festival, also known as the "yoghurt festival" is usually celebrated in mid-August. Celebrations in Lhasa are centered around Norbulinka, with dancing, opera, yak races, feasting, nighttime bonfires, displays of religious art and, of course, lots of yogurt.
Among the many other festivals worth looking into are the Monlam Festival, Butter Lamp Festival, Sagya Dawa Festival, Bathing Festival and the Gutor Festival.
During festivals also be aware of both Tibetan sensitivities (don't shoot pictures without permission, for example) and Chinese ones (festivals are often occasions for heightened security).
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