Lhasa is the cultural capital of Tibet, as well as the political administrative center for the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). And while many visitors are surprised—or disappointed—by the sight of high-rises, karaoke bars and other expressions of Chinese economic growth, there are plenty of unexpected delights to make a visit to this soulful capital very much worthwhile.
Situated in a high-altitude valley at 3,700 meters (11,100 feet) surrounded by even higher mountains and with the scenic Kyichu River flowing right through town, Lhasa can be wonderfully picturesque in spite of its rapidly modernizing skyline. In the older parts of the city, especially near the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple, you'll find spinning prayer wheels, colorful flags and traditionally clad Tibetans going about their Buddhist business. Take your time in Lhasa, and you are virtually guaranteed unforgettable sights and experiences as you explore the streets, squares and attractions of this dynamic city at the heart of an ancient land.
History
The destruction of buildings and historical records over the years has left much of Lhasa's history to story-telling, puzzle-solving and myth, but it is well known that Tibet's capital city has seen it all—from long periods of violence and turmoil to triumphant glory days and undisturbed stretches of peace. It is unclear when the first nomads wandered into Lhasa to stay, but the city's official history begins with King Songtsen Gampo, who established his kingdom's capital in the pretty river valley in the seventh century. The region had already established trade with what is now northern India and eastern China, and this outside influence affected the king directly: he was the region's first prominent convert to Buddhism. In his devotion to the religion, he built many temples around Lhasa—two of which still stand today: the Jokhang and Ramoche—sealing the union between the words "Tibetan" and "Buddhism" forever.
Over the next several hundred years, Lhasa's political importance dwindled as its religious significance grew, making it a major Buddhist pilgrimage site. During the fifteenth century, Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelukpa school of Buddhism, built three large monasteries in Lhasa (the Ganden, the Sera and the Drepung) at the center of a puritanical Buddhist revival, the result of which was a revitalization of the capital city and its population. Soon thereafter came Lobsang Gyatso, the fifth Dalai Lama, who was authorized to combine his religious and political power. He began rebuilding the massive Potala Palace in 1645 and succeeded in re-establishing Lhasa as a political center.
The subsequent centuries found many outsiders expressing interest in Tibet, and foreign visitors with all manner of agendas started to flood the once-isolated kingdom, including Western Christian missionaries set on converting Tibetans from their Buddhist ways. By the mid-nineteenth century, the political leaders in Lhasa decided to close and lock the doors to the Rooftop of the World, effectively shutting Tibet off from outside influence in an attempt to preserve its culture and autonomy. Lhasa remained the Tibetan center of Buddhism throughout the next decade, during which nearly half of its population was made up of monks. Though autonomous in a number of ways, Qing Dynasty imperial representatives kept Tibet firmly in the orbit of Chinese power and political control until the dynasty itself began to crumble under pressure from Western imperial powers and internal dissent.
Tibet, after experiencing a high degree of autonomy during the chaotic period of two World Wars and civil war and revolution in China, was to fall under direct Chinese control after the decisive Communist triumph. Having defeated the Kuomintang and gained control of mainland China in 1949, the People's Liberation Army entered Tibet in 1950; one year later the Tibetan government signed a treaty granting the PRC control and possession of the land. Over the next twenty-five years many Buddhist temples, monasteries and shrines were damaged and destroyed as the tumult of the Cultural Revolution swept westward from the Chinese heartlands. During this period, many Tibetans perished from violence and famine. Others chose to leave, including the Dalai Lama, who has remained in exile ever since. In recent years, development and the influx of Chinese settlers has changed the face of the city significantly, though it remains the vital heart of Tibetan culture and a phenomenal place to visit.
Climate
Winters is Lhasa are brutally cold and temperatures frequently drop below freezing. Fall is generally dry and green while the spring is lush and wet. Summertime brings tourist crowds ready to enjoy pleasant temperatures that average in the 80s during the day and drop into the 50s at night. It is important to keep in mind that no matter what time of year you visit, Lhasa's altitude can cause serious discomfort until you're acclimated. Note too that the sun's rays are intensified because of the high elevation and thin air, so load up on sunscreen and bring a brimmed hat and good sunglasses.
Hotels and hostels in Lhasa are plentiful and vary widely in prices and amenities. Many mid- to lower range accommodations lack heat, so be sure to ask your hotel whether it's available before making reservations—you may want to bring a sleeping bag or go elsewhere. Another amenity worth checking into is oxygen. Altitude sickness can ruin your day, and many hotels offer oxygen tanks to help recent arrivals cope.
Most of Lhasa's hotels are centrally located within walking distance of major attractions, restaurants and night spots, and many cater to travelers on a budget, providing inexpensive lodging in great locales (the Lhasa Xue Ya and the Yak Hotel for example). If you're looking for a little luxury to go with stunning views and Tibetan charm, the Brahmaputra Grand Hotel and House of Shambhala are good bets.
Lhasa has a surprising selection of international restaurants and cuisine, but Tibetan food will probably interest first-time visitors the most. Local favorites include thukpa (noodle soup), momos (dumplings) and bo cha (Tibetan tea). Tibetan bread is probably the densest you'll find on the planet but pairs well with sweet jam and cha ngarmo (sweet tea) for a hearty and delicious breakfast (the Tibet Hotel restaurant and Eatlovers Bakery are said to bake the best in town).
Most of the city's restaurants can be found in the city center on either Barkhor Street or within walking distance of the Jokhang Temple. Food in Lhasa, even in the nicest of restaurants is generally reasonably priced and travelers on a budget certainly don't have to avoid delicious food to save a few bucks. Unless you're a vegetarian, yak meat (the most common protein in Tibetan diets) is definitely worth a try. Dunya has a wide selection of yak dishes (and vegetarian options), and the huge, delicious meals run at very reasonable prices. The Snowlands Restaurant serves higher end Western cuisine but also has some great dishes highlighting locally grown ingredients. Duosenge Road hosts a number of snack carts and locally owned restaurants with delicious regional food. If you're out and about, definitely try the fried momos filled with either meat or vegetables.
Around Lhasa
Public buses are few here, and most of the signage is in Chinese anyway, so this is not a great short-distance option for foreigners. Non-scheduled mini-buses and jeeps with fixed lines, however, are everywhere and cost only 2 RMB per person. Most of them take Tibet Hospital as the main terminal, but you'd better confirm that before you get on. Bicycles and pedicabs are also convenient and interesting means of getting around.
Taxi
There are indeed a large number of taxis in Lhasa for its size. They're not metered, so 10 RMB will get you anywhere in the city limits. If you want to go further out of the city, remember to negotiate with the driver before you get in.
Pedicab
Enjoy Lhasa's scenery from the back of a pedicab. Hail one down for 3-7 RMB for short hauls, and always remember to bargain before starting off.
Bike/Car Rental
The healthiest (and most Buddha-pleasing) way to get around the city is by bicycle. Most hotels offer bike rentals (2 RMB/hour or 20 RMB/day; mountain bikes 3 RMB/hour, 30 RMB/day). You can also rent a car at one of Lhasa's many automobiles companies or travel agencies. Fees rage from 3-8 RMB per kilometer, depending on the vehicle and the route.
To and From Lhasa
Air
Located in Gongar County to the south, Lhasa Gongar Airport is less than 100 km from downtown. Get to the airport by bus (1 hour; 25 RMB) or taxi (45 minutes, 100-150 RMB). The airport offers flights to other major cities in China including Beijing, Shanghai, Chongqing, Xian, Guangzhou, Kunming and Chengdu as well as regional destinations like Chamdo and Katmandu in Nepal. (Tel: (0891) 6246 465)
Train
Lhasa Railway Station is the terminus of the great Qinghai-Tibet Railway, completed in 2006. Trains leave Lhasa to Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Xining, Lanzhou, Shanghai and Guangzhou.
Bus
You'll find Lhasa's Long-distance Bus Center at the intersection of Minzu Lu and Jinzhu Zhong Lu, facing the Monument of Qinghai-Tibet Highway and Sichuan-Tibet Highway. Road conditions in Lhasa vary and some routes should be avoided in bad weather. Long-distance bus routes reach several towns around Tibet including Bayi Town, Chamdo, Shigatse, Gyantse and northwards to Golmud. (Tel: (0891) 6824 469)
Lhasa isn't exactly a shopping destination, but if you come for the culture, you might as well stay for the shopping. Find the usual knock-off clothing, DVDs and high-tech gear at any of the shopping malls located downtown, but for local crafts head for the array of boutiques and markets spotted around town. Many tourists find themselves interested in homeopathic Tibetan medicine and herbs. You'll see vendors everywhere, but the best place to purchase such remedies is in the Tibetan hospital across the street from Jokhang Temple. Also near the Jokhang Temple is Barkor Street, which has the widest selection of thangkas (traditional Buddhist scroll paintings), carved jade, gold and silver, among other Tibetan crafts. Tibetan food carts are everywhere in this shopping district so it is easy to spend an entire day perusing the area.
If the temples and street culture of Lhasa aren't enough arts and entertainment for you, there are a number of traditional and Chinese activities going on in town to keep you occupied. Tibetan song and dance are easily found in Lhasa, though often under rather controlled and chaperoned conditions, which put a bit of a damper on authentic expression of folk culture. They are, however, around, so look for troupes of dancers in hotels, restaurants and, of course, participating in one of the city's many festivals. If you can time your visit to Lhasa with some kind of city-wide celebration, do. The festivals draw pilgrims and tourists alike and will surely transform the town.
Bars & Clubs
For a drink, the easiest bet is often one of the city's hotel bars. If you're up for a bit more of an adventure, check out one of the local nangma joints—nangma is a Tibetan dance music that combines disco and Tibetan folk music with the occasional karaoke sprinkled in. These can be a bit tricky to find, as many close or change locations regularly. JJ's Nangma on Potola Square has been around for a while and is a good place to start. For a more Western vibe, the Music Kitchen Café serves reasonably priced drinks in a pleasant atmosphere.
Performing Arts
The Tibetan Dance & Drama Theatre is worth checking out for occasional performances, and if you're in town for a few days you should be able to find some Tibetan dance, opera or music at a number of hotels and restaurants around town—try the Potala, Lhasa and Kirey hotels for starters.
Museums & Galleries
In a city where Buddhist temples, monasteries, nunneries and, of course, the Potala Palace are still an active part of everyday life for many inhabitants, leaving the fresh air and spontaneity of Lhasa's streets for the dark confines of a museum may seem undesirable or at least unnecessary. After all, the whole place can seem like one big museum. But there is an actual museum to visit; the Tibet Museum, completed in 1999, houses a number of artifacts and relics and is worth a look if you have an extra day or if the weather's bad. Be ready to compare and contrast competing historical narratives, taking the presentation of Tibet's history with several grains of salt.
Festivals & Events
If you're fortunate enough to visit Lhasa during a Tibetan festival, you're in for a treat. The festivals are really the best chance a tourist has to witness authentic traditional expressions of Buddhist faith and Tibetan life. The town should be fun and lively, but be aware of both Tibetan sensitivities (don't shoot pictures without permission, for example) and Chinese ones (festivals are often occasions for heightened security). The early July Shoton Festival celebrates yogurt with dancing, opera, displays of religious art and, of course, lots of yogurt. The Tibetan New Year sees barley beer toasts, exchanges of gifts of food and, over the course of ten days, pilgrimages and religious ceremonies. During this period flights to Lhasa are often suspended, "officially" because it's the low point in the tourist year; we'll have to excuse you if you draw a different conclusion. Among the many other festivals worth looking into are the Lamp Festival, Sagya Dawa Festival, Butter Lantern Festival, Bathing Festival and Gutor Festival.