Leshan's claim to fame is Dafo, or the Grand Buddha, carved from the red-rock cliff face overlooking the confluence of the Min, Qingyi and Dadu Rivers. Dafo is the world's largest Buddha, measuring 71 meters (233 feet) in height. A number of temples are scattered along the cliffs surrounding the Buddha, and one can spend several hours exploring the area. Stairs carved into the cliff connect the area at his feet with the land above, allowing visitors to view this astonishing sight from a range of vantage points. River approaches made by boat are also popular, and most take a ferry across from Leshan to reach the Buddha.
Above Dafo, on Wuyou Shan (Wuyou Mountain), Wuyou Si (Wuyou Temple), founded in 742 AD is a worthy destination in and of itself. Featuring impressive sculptures illustrating scenes from the classical Chinese novel Journey to the West, the temple provides an excellent contrast with the monolithic mass of Dafo. Additional attractions in the immediate area include ancient Han tombs, scenic Lingyun Shan and the Lingyun Temple Museum (see Leshan Attractions for more).
The modest city of Leshan itself doesn't offer much in the way of additional attractions, though it is convenient to nearby Emei Shan via bus. The station, on the north side of town about 5 km from the city's heart opposite the Dafu on the banks of the Min and Dadu Rivers, also connects directly to Chengdu, Xichang and Chongqing, among other destinations. If you're planning on exploring the surrounding countryside, Leshan is the place to make sure you have cash (the Bank of China branch should serve your needs) and perhaps spend a night en route to elsewhere.
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History
The intersection of two regional rivers, the Dadu and Min, has long made the site of today's Leshan important. It was boat traffic that led to the creation of the giant Buddha Dafo—swirling waters at the base of the cliff where the rivers meet were a major hazard to boats and, therefore, a hindrance to commerce and trade. This unhappy situation persisted until 713 AD, when a monk named Haitong decided that a massive religious/engineering project was necessary: An enormous Buddha watching over the rivers would provide divine protection on one hand, and the dumping into the water of the massive amount of rock removed from the cliff would alter the turbulent flow of the rivers, making passage safer for Sichuan boatmen.
This marriage of practicality and spirituality worked beautifully, though Haitong did not live to see the final realization of his dream. One story has it that, when corrupt officials attempted to redirect funds meant for the Buddha project, Haitong tore out his own eyes in protest, freaking the officials out to the point that they let the monk have his way, and his money. Whether Haitong tore his own eyes out or not, he passed away nearly a century before the Buddha was completed by his successors.
Today, the popularity of Emei Shan has helped ensure a steady stream of tourists coming to see Dafo. The hope is that the combination of heavy tourist traffic, natural erosion and damage from acid rain and other atmospheric pollution won't cause irreversible damage to this ancient wonder. The builders took erosion into account, building an ingenious system of drainage channels into the sculpture, but they did not anticipate coal-fired power plants or group package tours. The Buddha, who has undergone waves of restoration and preservation projects since the 1960s, remains in amazing shape for all of his years and, with further care, promises to continue his vigil over the waters of the Dadu and Min for many more.
Climate
Situated in the southwestern Sichuan Basin, Leshan's climate is relatively moderate for the area, with mild winters and fairly cool summers. Spring and fall see significant rain.
Leshan is still developing its tourist infrastructure to accommodate the increase in monied tourists, so if you're looking for luxury, you'll likely be disappointed. Budget accommodations, however, are abundant, ranging from hostel and dorm-style beds available in some of the temples above Dafo (the Grand Buddha) to riverfront backpacker favorites like Taoyuan Binguan. Slightly fancier hotels, such as the three-star Jiazhou Binguan, four-star Jin Hai Tang and Duiyangwan Binguan are clean, efficient and, though rates have risen in recent years, affordable.
Eating is good in Leshan, and generally cheap. Leshan hotpot comes highly recommended, as do local takes on Sichuan fish, tofu and sticky rice snacks—try the sweet rice "pearl balls," often served with tea, or the sticky rice dumpling known as ye'er ba. Small restaurants and stalls can be found throughout the city and near all major attractions.
Leshan and nearby Emei Shan Town are rife with souvenir stands and shops, most of which are full of the usual trinkets, tea cups, t-shirts, arts & crafts (small sculptures and carvings in particular) and other touristic memorabilia, much of it drawing on various Buddhist motifs and themes. Bamboo products are popular, including bamboo weavings and tender bamboo shoot, which can be had fresh or dried.
Leshan itself, as a mid-sized Chinese city, offers a bit of everything, and on a manageable scale: modern malls, brand-name stores and small, old-fashioned mom & pop shops are all on hand. It's a pleasant enough place to kill half a day or more wandering and exploring, and the prices are certainly lower on the whole than in larger cities.
If you're looking for something unique to the area, your best bet is locally produced tea. Good buys include variously aged dark pu'er (as with wine, the older the better and pricier) and Emei Shan's own zhuyeqing white and green teas, known for their light and delicate flavor. If you have the time, it's worth visiting a few tea shops and sampling the goods before purchasing. Other popular items include various medicinal herbs, many of which flourish in the unique microclimates found on Emei Shan and other area mountains. Be careful with these, as some can be toxic if taken the wrong way or in too great a quantity.