The gateway to China's captivating and wild Yunnan Province, Kunming (Kūnmíng, 昆明) is best explored at a leisurely pace. Wander the markets for local handicrafts and herbs, sip fragrant Yunnan tea in relaxed teahouses, fill up on delicious snacks, and bike through the city and surrounding countryside. Visit temples, lakes (the deep blue Dian Chi is worth at least one day alone) and nearby mountains and forests (including the Shilin "stone forest" rock formation).
Kunming and the surrounding countryside can keep you busy, but the city itself is also a great place to simply hang out, relax and experience something of China's cultural diversity: significant populations of ethnic minority Yi, Hui, Bai and Miao peoples live in and around the city. When you're ready to move on, Kunming makes a great jumping-off point for further explorations of Yunnan and beyond—Tibet, Sichuan, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam are all within striking distance.
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History
Early settlements in the area date back to Neolithic times but it wasn't until the eighth century AD that the Dian Kingdom city of Tuodong took shape on the site of present-day Kunming. The Han Dynasty (205 BC - 220 AD), seeking control over the Southern Silk Road running to Burma and India, brought much of Yunnan into China's orbit, though subsequent dynasties could do little to tame what was then a remote and wild borderland.
Kublai Khan and the Mongol Yuan Dynasty changed that in 1252, overthrowing the Dali Kingdom and renaming the city Kunming in 1276. As China's borders and influence expanded, Kunming became a strategic Western outpost, playing a key role in China's military history. The Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD) defeated the Mongols in Kunming in the fourteenth century and officials constructed the city wall, part of which exists to this day. Ming General Wu Sangui defeated Manchu invaders 300 years later and held the city until his death in 1678, long after the rest of China had fallen under Manchu rule.
Kunming also played an important part in the fight against the Japanese during the 1940s, serving as a base for defending the legendary Burma Road and hosting Chinese and American military detachments, including the famous Flying Tigers. The war also brought a number of urban Chinese fleeing the Japanese to the east, which helped lead to the development of Kunming's industrial capacity. After 1949, the city's fortunes rose and fell with those of China at large. The Cultural Revolution saw the destruction of many religious and culturally significant buildings and an influx of residents "sent down" from eastern China, many of whom chose to stay because of the pleasant climate and way of life. During the 1979 war between China and Vietnam and subsequent tensions in the 1980s, Kunming experienced another round of conflict-fueled growth. This was slowly supplemented and then replaced by growth in tourism.
Today, Kunming is a thoroughly modern Chinese city with large retail and residential blocks dominating downtown. Nonetheless, despite the scars and erasures of history, the provincial capital retains its laid-back atmosphere, cultural diversity and much of its natural beauty.
Climate
Known as the "City of Eternal Spring," Kunming experiences sunny, dry summers and temperate winters. Annual temperatures average 15 ºC (59 º F), peaking at averages of 24 ºC (75 ºF) during the summer and 7.5 ºC (45.5 ºF) in the winter. The rainy season lasts from May to October, delivering daily cloudbursts. At 1,890 meters (about 6,000 feet) above sea level, the area's strong sunlight can come as a surprise, so remember to pack sunscreen. Despite the temperate weather, you should also pack a sweater or jacket; nights can cool down significantly, especially in the summer.
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Eating well is not a problem in Kunming. Try regional Yunnan specialties in the city's restaurants and among the numerous roadside stalls. Kunming's temperate weather makes for great outdoor dining, so hit the street, load up on the city's best-known dishes, and dig in. Don't miss these local treats:
Yunnan rice noodles (guò qiáo mǐxiàn, 过桥米线)
Literally called "crossing-the-bridge rice noodles," this dish consists of a bowl of hot oily broth, a dish of thin pork or chicken slices and vegetables with various spices, and an additional bowl of cold rice noodles. Once served, diners pour all the components into the steaming broth, cooking the ingredients instantly. You can find this tasty make-your-own dish at Jixin Yunnan Flavor Restaurant, Mengzi Guoqiao Mixian or the Guoqiaodu Restaurant.
Xuanwei Ham (Xuān wēi huǒtuǐ, 宣威火腿)
Salted and cured, Yunnan ham (also known as Yún tuǐ, 云腿) is famous throughout China. It shows up as an important ingredient in several regional dishes or just eaten alone. To prepare, cooks follow an intricate process of baking, salting, warming, and freezing. The resulting ham can be stored for long periods of time. Around China, Yunnan ham is often served at wedding banquets.
Yunnan Eight Pastries
The famous Yunnan Eight Pastries are made with several different local fillings-salty Xuanwei ham, seasoned chicken, sweet fruit or sesame seeds. Wrapped up in a decorative box, these savory morsels make great gifts.
Muslim Dishes
Muslim populations first appeared in Yunnan in the 13th century. Today, the minority influences the city through its religion, culture and food. In Kunming, try the Muslim noodles or road-side lamb kabobs, found throughout the city on the streets and in neighborhood haunts.
Snacks
Mouth-watering snacks can be found in the streets of Kunming well into the night. Check out the food stalls on Shuncheng Jie, Beijing Lu or off Renmin Xi Lu.
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Getting Around
There are more than 50 different bus routes in Kunming, however, like all other cities in China the schedules are all in Chinese and there is the occasional pickpocketer. Taxis are relatively inexpensive (base price starts at RMB 10) although after 10pm prices significantly increase. Car rental with a driver (self-drive with a Chinese driver's license only) is an option and the most convenient way to get around though it is quite spendy. Many travelers rent bikes (around RMB 20 per day) to get around the city.
To and from Kunming
Air
Kunming Wujiaba International Airport is not far from downtown and just 3 km (1.8 miles) from the city's railway station. Buses travel frequently to the airport and there are Kunming flights to all major cities within China available daily. There are several international flights in and out of Kunming as well as inner provincial flights to Dali and Lijiang.
Train
Railways in Yunnan are frequently used by travelers and for hauling freight in and out of the region. There are four train stations in Kunming all providing routes to cities within and outside of the province, but keep in mind the mountainous terrain makes for long trips.
Bus
The highway transportation system in Kunming is well developed and buses or cars for hire can quickly and effectively carry passengers both within Yunnan and outside the province. There are two international bus routes traveling weekly from the Railway Bus Station, one to Vietnam and the other to Burma.
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Kunming, with it busy bazaars and markets, is a great place to find excellent examples of many of Yunnan's traditional arts and crafts. Explore the city's Flower and Bird Market, Yunnan Antique City, the Nanyao Market, the Golden Horse and Phoenix Memorial Archway Jewelry Market, Flower Street or the shops along Beijing Lu or Dongfeng Dong Lu.
Kunming's stores stock scores of Yunnan marble and jade, local embroidery, and bronze ware. For something even more special, check out these local goods:
Bai batik cloth is dyed in the Bai tradition using wax and a natural blue dye, creating patterns that usually depict symbolic animals, flowers, or characters from local folklore. The durable cloth makes for excellent articles of clothing, curtains, tablecloths, tapestries and souvenir bags.
Made by local women, Dai silk brocade features vibrantly colored animals, flowers and geometric shapes, each holding a unique meaning. For example, peacocks symbolize good luck while an elephant means a good harvest. The intricate brocade is used on handbags, wall hangings, cushions and window drapes.
Thanks to the moderate climate in Yunnan, the province harvests various medicinal herbs and mushrooms important to traditional Chinese medicine. Try the famous local edible mushrooms such as Niuganjun, Jizong and Ganbajun, or pick up a packet of Yunnan White Medicine, a mix of local herbs believed to have curative and restorative powers.
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Travelers weary from trekking Yunnan and Western China can easily find a few days' relaxation and fun in Kunming. Pleasant open-air spots abound in the City of Eternal Spring and the region's Dai and Yi peoples stage a number of colorful festivals and performances year round.
Bars & Clubs
The provincial capital's residential east side is home to several teahouses, mainly near the Guanfang Hotel in the busy Xinying residential area. Try some Yunnan tea and settle into a card game or a good book. Livelier options can be found in the Kundu bar area near Dongfeng Xi Lu. Evening welcomes crowds to the area's bars, karaoke venues, discos and video arcades. Bars like Fengqing Island and the Cool Bar host live music and you can grab cheap beers at The Hump on Jinbi Lu. The city has a large foreign student population, and the bars and cafes around Green Lake Park and near the university are good bets—one of the most popular bars these days is the Halfway House.
Museums & Galleries
The Yunnan Provincial Museum displays the area's famous bronzes, Buddhist art and ethnic minority arts and crafts. The Kunming Museum focuses on the city's history, specifically the fates of the various ancient cultures that lived around Lake Dian. The excellent Yunnan Nationalities Museum is found on the northeastern side of Lake Dian and houses costumes, jewelry and artifacts. Smaller, contemporary art galleries, like the Upriver Club, cluster around Jinbi Lu.
Performing Arts
The Kunming Theatre puts on nightly 8pm performances by the Song and Dance Ensemble of Yunnan. In the Yunnan Nationalities Village, across from the Yunnan Nationalities Museum, costumed performances of local songs and dances take place several times each day.
Festival & Events
Festivals play an important role in the lives of Kunming's people. The Yi Torch Festival takes place in mid-summer, on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month. The Dai celebrate their Water Splashing Festival in April, sprinkling water on one another for good fortune, "bathing the Buddha", dancing, singing and racing dragon boats. The Dai also gather at the Triple Pagoda Temple every March or April for the Third Month Fair (also known as Avalokitesvara's Festival). Horse racing, opera performances, folk singing and dancing enliven the fair's central market. Finally, it only makes sense that the City of Eternal Spring hosts a flower festival—check out the World Horticultural Expo Garden's late-September Kunming International Flower Festival.
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