Jilin is the only city in China that shares the same as its province. Winter is definitely the time to come to the city for the ski slopes at Songhua Lake and Beidahu Ski Area and the famed snow-crusted "rimy pines" that bring in flocks of local tourists. Like Harbin, tourists visit Jilin in January for the annual Ice Lantern Festival and to enjoy the spectacle of the city transformed into a winter wonderland after snow falls.

In Manchurian dialect the city is named "city along the river." Flanked by a waterfront promenade lined with pine and willow trees, the Songhua River cuts through the middle of Jilin making for an easy navigational landmark.

For a modern city known to be predominantly industrial, Jilin has a surprising number of large parks, possibly the city's best feature. In spring and summer, pack a picnic lunch and take a walk south across Jilin Bridge over the Songhua River to Century Square and Jiangnan Park (also the winter location of the Ice Lantern Festival). Some vendors rent roller skates on the eastern side of Century Square in case you want to give it a go (although if your feet are large, forget about getting a rental).  In winter, a brisk hike on the hilly footpaths of Beishan Gongyuan (Beishan Park) is a good way to keep warm while enjoying the great, though chilly, outdoors.

Also, whether you visit in winter or summer, Songhua Lake, 24 kilometers east of the city center, is a lovely spot. Long, narrow and surrounded by hilly forests it's ideal for boating and swimming in summer and skiing in winter.

The city itself has few tourist attractions, but there are a couple odd little gems, like the Meteorite Shower Museum which houses the largest chunk of meteor in the world, the old Kung Fu School, and Wen Miao, the 2nd largest Confucius temple in the world.

History

Jilin was established as a fort city in 1673 to keep out foreign and domestic invaders. While it was established in the fear of attack, the city remained relatively peaceful until World War II when the city suffered heavy damages and was looted by Russian troops.
 
After the Communist victory, Jilin's fortunes improved as the city transformed itself into an industrial powerhouse. Today it specializes in the manufacturing of chemicals, pharmaceuticals and machines, as well as electricity from its hydroelectric power plant.
 
Jilin is now the second largest city in the province, with a population of a 1.3 million people.

Climate

Jilin has long, cold winters and short summers. Between July and September, the city has average temperatures of 20 ºC (68 ºF). With the winter's heaps of snow, temperatures plummet as low as -40 ºC (-40 ºF); snow starts as early as November and the coldest month is January. However, the winter months are a great time to visit, when the city is transformed into fantastic world of snow and ice. Dress appropriately, if you plan on skiing, be sure to pack that gore-tex and your goggles.

Prices for accomodations tend to increase when the snow starts to fall. January and February are high season in Jilin, so be prepared. There are a number of places to stay and rooms range in price. For an inexpensive bed, the cheaper hotels in town are located on Tianjin Jie. For a budget option close to the train station try Jiaotong Binguan or Jiangcheng Binguan (rooms for 150-280 RMB). 

The Century Swissbel Hotel is a higher class option designed in the typical opulent style of the late 19th century Europe with a red-brick exterior and luxury amenities such as an indoor swimming pool, Shiatsu massage and a Turkish spa (rooms for 880-950 RMB). The Century is one of the best hotels in Jilin.


 

Dongbei food is famous thoughout China for it's hearty portions and rich northeastern flavors. Jilin cuisine is distinct in its deeply Manchurian influenced cooking techniques. Even today Jilin has a sizable Manchurian population. 

Local specialties include frog oil soup, steamed whitefish, raw salmon and carp, venison, tough tofu cooked in terrines, chicken and ginseng in earthen ware pots, and the famed Manchurian Three-set Bowl Banquet. 

Anyone after some decent western food is liable to be let down. The best choices for dining are probably the Qingxiangyuan Restaurant for Manchurian dishes, the Laobai Sausage Restaurant for variations on a sausage theme, or the Xinyuan Dumpling Restaurant for the best dumplings in Jilin. 

For those after something a little different, there is the Dongsheng Islamic Restaurant, on Tianjin Lu opposite the Xinhua Theatre, that serves good Islamic food. Most of the dishes use lamb, beef or noodle as their main ingredient.

Getting Around

Although not as well-served as the capital Changchun, Jilin still has fairly good transportation links with most parts northeast China and beyond.

Air

The city can be reached by air from many major cities in China including Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Dalian, Harbin and Shenyang. The airport is 25 kilometers west of the city, a seemingly short distance but will cost you as much as 50 RMB by taxi. A cheaper choice is to take a private minibus, which leaves the airport after flights arrive. However, when leaving the city these minibuses are not reliable. Instead, you might take the shuttle bus that leaves from the CAAC office at 1 Chongqing Jie, next to the Dongguan Hotel. Or alternatively, bus No. 38 goes to and from the airport in the northwest of town to the railway and bus station.

Train

Railway lines link Jilin city closely with other major cities in Dongbei (the northeastern region of China comprising three provinces) like a cobweb, including Changchun, Shengyang and Heilongjiang. Besides these, there are also express trains to further destinations including Beijing, Tianjin, Dalian, Tumen (via Dunhua) and Ningbo. You are advised to book several days in advance to ensure getting a sleeper. You could first take a train to Changchun, where there are more rail destination choices. The train station is to the north of the long distance bus station, in the north of the city.

Bus

Traveling to and from Jilin by bus is also fairly convenient, thanks to the completion of the Changchun-Jilin Expressway (1 hour) and the Changchun-Beijing Expressway (13 hours). The long-distance bus station is one block west of the railway station, where there are daily buses to Changchun every 20 minutes. In addition, there are less frequent buses to Shenyang and Harbin and a daily bus to Tianchi in Changbaishan at 9am.

Around the city: The city boasts a well-developed public transport system. Bus fares are rarely in excess of 2 RMB, unless the bus travels beyond the city proper. If you come to the city by train, you will instantly perceive the "hospitality" of the local people with a long queue of taxis in front of the railway. You can expect to pay no more than 20 RMB for a ride anywhere within the city. For trips a little further afield, buses or tour operators are your best bet.

The most famous local shopping articles in Jilin are ginseng, marten and pilose antler. The people of the region are seemingly obsessed about these three items for their medicinal (and mystical) powers, so be prepared for bafflement if you show lack of interest.

The kirigami that is produced in Jilin—a form of paper cutting that was perfected by the Manchurians in the Qing Dynasty—is a good gift to take home and can provide a little insight into the culture and even history of this once all powerful minority.

The Painted Calabash, a local art form that make for great presents to take home for kids and the mantelpiece. Finding all of these goods in good quality is something that is not the easiest however. The major hotels sell them for steep prices, but you are probably better off trying your luck with the shops and street sellers.

For more standard goods there are a few department stores around the place. Clothes and general goods can be brought in both the East Shopping Building at 131 Henan Lu or at the Jilin Department Store at 179 Jilin Lu. The latter also has a good food hall where you can grab cheap and tasty lunch.

The Ice Lantern Festival
Every year in Jiangnan Park on the south side if the Songhua River, the Ice Lantern Festival (Bingdeng Jie) is held for two weeks in mid-January. This festival is very popular among domestic tourists. This is also a great time to hit the local ski slopes and take full advantage of the snowy conditions.

Underground Arcade
If you are in search of a bit of mindless entertainment, there is a massive underground arcade where you can play video games, ping-pong, Internet access, bowling, pool, and roller skating (the rink is quite small though). The entrance to the arcade is on the north side of Jiefang Dalu on the corner of Nanjing Jie and Jiefang Dalu, Mon-Fri open until 10pm; Sat and Sun open until midnight).

Roller Skating in Century Square
Century Square is a popular place for locals to hangout and play badminton. There is also a vendor here that rents roller skates (east side of the square, costs 5 RMB).

Skiing
If you enjoy winter sports, be sure to check out the two ski area: Beidahu and Songhua Lake, both within 50 kilometers of the city center.