China Travel

The craggy rock faces, hanging mists and clustered pines of Huang Shan (the Yellow Mountains) create a lovely and distinctly Chinese landscape, one instantly recognizable from countless images on silk, paper and porcelain. The mountain range, consisting of some 70 peaks over 1,000 m (3,300 ft), spills across the southern province of Anhui in an exquisite jumble of scenic highlights—twisted lone pines clinging to stony spires, seas of clouds filling rugged valleys, and crystalline mountain spring-fed pools.

Depending on your stamina and tolerance for crowds, there are several ways to tackle Huang Shan. Three cable car lines connect peaks also linked by well maintained trails. It can take a lot of walking to escape the throngs of tourists, but it can be done. Regardless, Huang Shan's natural scenery, punctuated by classical temples and pavilions, is virtually guaranteed to be a major high point of any tour of China.

Although strenuous, hiking is not a backwoods experience by any stretch: Foot paths along are generally paved with stone steps, all hand-laid over the centuries. In the more trafficked areas, the trails are often lined with vendors selling water, ice cream and souvenirs; you'll also find plenty of shaded areas to stop and rest. Take the hike slowly (the humidity combined with altitude can sneak up on the hardiest hiker) and remember to drink lots of water.

Hikers have two basic choices of paths: Eastern and Western Steps. The former is the easier of the two; the latter the more scenic and rugged. The area in the north of the mountain range is connected to the two paths by a Peak Circuit trail (often the area is referred to as the "Summit," though it is comprised of a number of peaks) which affords glorious views of the "cloud seas" and even offers a measure of privacy as one gets further from the cable car terminals.

Regardless of which path you find yourself on, you'll come across scores of whimsically named rocks, trees, and scenic outlooks. They're usually named after some creature or figure they resemble ("Magpie in a Plum Tree", "Embroidering Goddess," "Immortal Drying His Boot," "Monkey Transfixed by the Sea" and the like). One notable example is Welcoming Pine (Yingke Song), a lone tree near the Jade Screen Pavilion reputed to be some 800 years old. The pine stands by the Western Steps with branches outspread like arms, greeting all comers. Perhaps the most famous tree in China, its likeness has graced everything from cigarette packages to the five yuan note.

You'll also notice a lot of stone inscriptions. These carved characters, often dating back many centuries, hold special meaning for the Chinese, often having to do with famous literary figures, poems and legends. One inscription, for example, is found on the "intoxicated rock." The two characters refer to a story about Li Bai (701-762), the great Tang poet. Apparently, Li Bai was so enraptured by the Huang Shan scenery (not to mention full of his beloved wine) that he seranaded the lucky stone and, naturally enough, it joined in and got drunk as well.

Though we do not recommend you either drink to excess on the trail or carve your inspiration into the mountainside no matter how overcome by Huang Shan's beauty you may be (you're not Li Bai and grafitti is punishable by law), we do recommend you join the masses in viewing the sunrise from one of the peaks (the area overlooking Beihai, or the "Northern Sea," is especially lovely). It's well worth braving the morning chill.

Note that admission to Huang Shan is RMB 130 and that one-way cable car tickets are RMB 65 (RMB 55 in the off season). For more information on specific Huang Shan sights, visit our Huang Shan Attractions page.
 

History

Known as Yishan in ancient texts, the mountain range took on its present name during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), most likely in honor of Huang Di, the "Yellow Emperor" and purported father of the Han Chinese people. The first reference to Huang Shan comes, unsurprisingly, in a poem (by China's beloved poet, Li Bai). The mountains have long provided inspiration to China's poets and painters, as well as legions of pilgrims who come to visit a site sacred to both Taoists and Buddhists.

Over time, Huang Shan's trails have come to be furnished with stone stairways, temples have been built and the area has been made increasingly accessible. Since the late 1980s, tourism—both domestic and international—has increased greatly. In 1999, Huang Shan was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Climate

The area around Huang Shan enjoys a mild climate with four distinct seasons: cool falls, snowy winters, pleasant springs and humid summers. It rains a lot, mostly from May to September. As you ascend, the temperature may drop significantly. Winter brings very cold winds to the region and average temperatures around -3 ºC (26 ºF). The best time to visit is spring or fall when the weather is moderate and the humidity and heat drop off.

There are several different areas on and around Huang Shan to spend the night. Aside from the more luxurious and expensive hotels tucked away in the mountains themselves, the most comfortable are in Tangkou, a town that serves as the point of departure for most tours. Tangkou is also well outfitted with restaurants, shops and grocery stores selling climbing and hiking gear. The Huangshan Xiangang Hotel offers inexpensive, clean rooms; the Tangkou Hotel is the top luxury hotel at around RMB 600 per night.

The Hot Springs Area (Wenquan), situated a bit further into the mountain range, offers more accommodations in a more picturesque and calmer setting, though with a slightly rougher edge. Taoyuan Binguan, Wenquan Dajiudian and Huangshan Binguan all offer decent rooms(if generally rather small and often rather damp) . You can also take advantage of the hot springs themselves.

Huang Shan's popular peaks feature some fine places to stay, many with spectacular views just outside your window. The "summit area," located in the north between Purple Cloud Peak, Pine Forest Peak and the Beihai (Sea of Clouds) is home to a handful of hotels, including the Beihai Hotel, ideal for getting a jump on the legendary sunrise over the Sea of Clouds, and the Xihai Hotel, a Swiss-style comfort zone. Cheaper dorm-style accommodations can be found at the Paiyunlou and Shilin hotels. Be prepared for the mountains' persisitent dampness if you're staying in cheaper lodgings.

The main summit area of Huang Shan is home to several respectable hotel restaurants. The Beihai Hotel and the Xihai Hotel possess decent dining rooms that serve both Chinese and Western food, though it can be tricky getting service at peak times if you're not part of a package tour. The towns nearest to the mountain, Tunxi (also known as Huangshan City or Huangshan Shi) and Tangkou, both feature a slew of restaurants serving mostly regional Chinese dishes. Diyilou in Tunxi is a particularly good choice, as is the  Mr. Hu Restaurant in Tangkou, though you may have to compete with everyone and their Chinese uncle for a table. For on-the-mountain noshing, numerous snack stalls and small restaurants abound, though you'd be well advised to pack your own bottled water and some snack foods.

Getting Around

From the town of Tangkou at the southern edge of the mountain range, minibuses travel every 20 minutes to the Hot Springs Area, the Western Steps, the Jade Screen Cable Car Station and the Cloud Valley Cable Car Station, which also marks the the start of the Eastern Steps. The bus fare for all destinations is RMB 10.

You can easily cover Tangkou by foot; taxis are available for the Hot Spring Area, Ciguang Temple and Yungu Temple, as well as the two aforementioned cable car terminals. An alternate route into the mountains is to come from the north via Taiping, a cable car terminal that delivers you to Pine Forest Peak in the northwestern corner of Huang Shan; from there, trails lead south and east into the mountains.

Cable Car 

For those who want to take the easy way up, there are three cable cars that run from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. All cable cars take about 8 minutes to reach their destinations. Cable car tickets cost RMB 55 (November-March) or RMB 65 (April-October). The Cloud Valley Cable Car runs between Cloud Valley Temple and White Goose Ridge. You can reach the cable car via minibus from the Huang Shan gate. The Jade Screen Cable Car departs from Ciguang Temple near the Hot Springs Area. The Taiping Cable Car runs from Hibiscus Ridge to the Pine Forest Peak. You can get to the lower terminal via minibus from Taiping. Note that the first two cable cars often require a long wait in line and that they don't run in periods of high winds.

To and from Huang Shan

Air 

Huangshan airport lies 7km (4.3mi.) outside of Tunxi, also known as Huang Shan City (Huang Shan Shi), which is another 70km (43mi.) from the base of Huang Shan. From the airport, take a RMB 5 bus or a RMB 15 taxi ride to the city center. Flights connect to cities including Beijing, Guangzhou, Shanghai, Hefei, Tianjin, Haikou, Shenzhen, Fuzhou, Hangzhou, Wuhan, Xian, Guilin, Kunming, Zhuhai, Hong Kong and Macau.

Train

The Huang Shan Railway Station is on Qianyuan Bei Lu in Tunxi. A one-and-a-half hour minibus ride runs from Tunxi railway station to Tangkou (RMB 10 - 20). Rail connects Huang Shan to several Chinese cities, including Beijing, Shanghai, Qingdao, Nanjing, Hefei, Jingdezhen, Nanchang, Xiamen, Yingtan and Fuzhou. Direct bus routes connect Huang Shan to Shanghai, Nanjing, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, Wuxi, Suzhou, Hangzhou, Huzhou, Hefei, Huainan, Banbu, Maanshan, Wuhu, Anqing, Tongling, Jiuhuashan, Jingdezhen and Jiujiang. Buses leave from the parking lot across from the Tunxi train station. Tickets can be purchased at the station.

Bus

If you come via bus, be sure you are clear on which "Huang Shan" you will arrive at. Some buses drop off at Tunxi, others at Tangkou and still others at Taiping.

You'll find no shortage of  small stands and stalls along the trails, in the summit area and in Tangkou. Though the abundance of touristic commerce doesn't much help one get in the mindset of a Tang Dynasty painter or poet, it does help the Chinese trinket industry and local small business economy. For local goods, look for the area's unique brick, wood and bamboo carvings. Bamboo knitting is also practiced here as well as bamboo furniture making. Locally produced food includes ganoderma (a rare Chinese herb used for insomnia and a vitality booster), gooseberries and walnuts. Many Chinese visitors pick up canisters of Huang Shan's famous green tea, mao feng, and you could do far worse than follow their example.

Entertainment in Huang Shan is fairly limited to hiking and exploring the mountain. However, Tunxi (also known as Huang Shan Shi, or Huang Shan City), a town 70 km (43 miles) away from the main entrance to the mountain area, is home to teahouses, karaoke centers and a few bars. Yilin Ge Teahouse offers a nightly tea ceremony and a Hui opera performance. Huangshan Bar has great snacks and cocktails and the Huashan Hotel has a sports and entertainment center. Tunxi also has a small but fun night market located along the banks of the Xin'an River.