In the shadow of the Liushao and Ailao mountains is southern Yunnan's bucolic Honghezhou Autonomous Region. Winding down from the mountains, the Honghe River cuts through the villages, terraced rice fields, rainforests, and valleys of the region as it flows downwards into Vietnam. Great topographical contrasts are one the region's greatest draws. Green karst peaks loom 3000 meters tall, and then plunge into the valleys below.
The old city of Jianshui is worth a visit for its cultural heritage, its more than 100 temples, 50 ancient bridges and 56 state-protected cultural relics providing ample historical attractions. Some highlights of the area include the Chaoyang Gate Arch built in 1389; the Jianshui Confucius Temple built in 1285; and the seventeen arches of Shuanglong Bridge, a Qing Dynasty masterpiece.
Thirty kilometers from Jianshui is Swallow Cave where you can watch freestyle climbers scale the cathedral cave's heights and retrieve swallow nests. These sell at high prices as culinary delicacies
The terraced fields scaling high up the mountain sides are the impressive legacies of the Hani minority. Nine ethnic minorities reside in Honghezhou, consisting mostly of Hani, Yu and Hui. Their presence adds much cultural diversity and colour to the region as each minority has its own architecture, style of dress and ceremonies.
History
Honghezhou is a region that was developed very early on. Discovery of ancient Lama ape fossils near Kaiyuan have contributed to the notion that this area may be one of the birthplaces of humankind. Humans have been in the area for at least 1300 years, but today Jianshui, Mengzi, and Gejiu are the political, economic and cultural centers of south Yunnan.
The Hani language belongs to Yi branch of the Sino-Tibetan family's Tibetan-Burmese groupe of languages. The area continued as a primarily agricultural economy unitl 1887, when the Sino-French Special Treaty for Continuous Trade was signed making of Mengzi an important trading port.
France, Great Britain, the United States, Germany, Italy and Japan set up their post offices, companies, banks and churches in Mengzi. In the late 19th century, a telegram bureau was founded in Yunnan province. In the present day, mining and agriculture are the two industries that power the region's economy. The gift of isolation, many of the villages on the banks of the Hehong River escaped the ravages of the Cultural Revolution due to their remote locations.
Honghezhou is one of the largest fruit producing areas in Yunnan, with bountiful crops of lychees, oranges, pineapples, grapes, pomegranates and bananas grown every year. Grain crops include rice and corn, while cash crops include tobacco, sugar-cane, peanuts, rape-seed and tea.
Climate
Honghezhou has both tropical and subtropical climates, that vary dramatically by altitude. The climate is mild and pleasant: neither hot in summer nor cold in winter. It feels like spring all year around since the Tropic of Cancer crosses the region. The average temperature is between 16 to 20°C.
The cuisine of Honghezhou is based upon ingredients available in the region and from nearby Vietnam. Fresh fruits, exotic mushrooms, river fish and rice are heavily featured in Honghezhou's cuisine. The Xiayu Restaurant is the most famous place in the area, open for more than eight years this eatery has people from all walks of life enjoying the cheap and delicious food.
The local delicacy of Honghezhou is, oddly enough, swallow bird's nests. Locals scale the cliff sides to collect these "treats" made from grass and bird saliva that are then steamed and devoured in great quantity amongst the Honghezhou natives.
Ninagao (sticky rice cakes) and tian jiatou (sweet Chinese onion treats) are both specialties of the area worth trying.
Around Honghezhou
Buses go to all 13 counties and cities, but do not service the villages. Travelers must hire a car or hitch a ride from a local. There are a limited number or taxis in Honghezhou but they are available with base rates ranging from 4-10 RMB.
To and From Honghezhou
Travelers usually arrive to Honghezhou by long-distance bus or train; the latter of which is a notoriously slow and uncomfortable trip. Most buses running into Honghezhou start from one of the three long-distance bus stations in Kunming. Numbers are listed below have accurate and current information regarding the schedules and destinations.
Kunming Nanyao Bus Station: 0871 3510 617
Kunming Bus Center: 0871 3544 574
Kunming Huangtupo Bus Station: 0871 8320823
Gejiu Bus Station: 0873 2222 091
Kaiyuan North Bus Station: 0873 7138 996
Jianshui Bus Station: 0873 7653 508
Mengzi Bus Station: 0873 3720 829
Yuanyang Bus Station: 0873 5643 485
Luxi Bus Station: 0873 6650 174
Shopping is limited in Honghezhou to food and a few handicrafts designed by local people. Tin and pottery are shaped and molded into all different sized religious figures, boxes and jars and picture frames. There are several kitchen appliances and utensils that might be of interest to foreigners; clay steaming pots and dishware, however, transporting these home can be both difficult and expensive.
Bars & Clubs For better or worse there are no bars or clubs to be found in Honghezhou. However, if you're in search of some buddies to drink with, meander around the streets and neighborhoods- you're more than likely going to be invited into someone's home or restaurant for some card games and homemade brew. Performing Arts There are not any performances that occur on a frequent basis in Honghezhou, however, during festivals locals break out into song and dance. Festivals & Events Honghezhou's minority groups celebrate four main festivals throughout the year. Visiting the are while these celebrations take place is a unique experience that gives travelers a unique understanding of the minority culture and traditions.
The October Festival is a celebration of ancestors and matchmaking. Animals are sacrificed during this week-long celebration when many local couples also tie the knot. Animals are also sacrificed during June Festival while people sing and dance in praise of the gods. New Rice Festival occurs in the spring when the rice is harvested much of which is burned as a sacrifice to gods and ancestors. Sisters Festival is a celebration of family ties while local people sing, dance and have outdoor picnics to enjoy the new summer sun.