In the shadows of mountains and towers, Hong Kong (Hēung Góng in Cantonese or Xiāng Gǎng in Mandarin, 香港) goes about its business, with crowds thronging street markets and luxury malls, dining in steamy dim sum eateries and elegant world-class restaurants and otherwise enjoying a city renowned for its independent spirit, wealth and industriousness.
Hong Kong's unique mix of East and West makes for an exciting, modern metropolis full of surprises. Comprised of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New Territories and the Outer Islands, the Hong Kong Special Administration Region (SAR) is unlike any other place in the world. On Hong Kong Island, skyscrapers soar against a backdrop of lush peaks and ridges, with Victoria Peak providing a stunning counterpoint to architectural landmarks such as I.M. Pei's Bank of China Tower, the modular HSBC Building and the elegant International Finance Centre (IFC).
Across Victoria Harbor, Kowloon appears to be entering into competition with its glamorous opposite number (though it has a long way to go), constructing its own phalanx of new high rises—including the International Commerce Centre, the tallest building in the in Hong Kong—and tempting consumers with brands and bargains galore in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Beyond Kowloon stretch the surprisingly expansive New Territories, including large areas of undeveloped land perfect for getting away from the crowds for a day at the beach or visit to a village with the feel of an older China. To the west, Lantau Island is home to fishing villages and trail-laced parks as well as Hong Kong's top-rated international airport and Hong Kong Disneyland.
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History
Hong Kong has known human habitation since the Paleolithic era. The Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) brought it under its rule when it first unified China, and by the time of the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) Hong Kong had become a significant trading and military outpost, benefiting from its strategic position near the Pearl River Delta and its proximity to Guangzhou (old Canton), where the British and European traders established a presence in the late seventeenth century. In 1841, the growing port of Hong Kong and its valuable deep-water harbor were handed over to the British as a result of concessions wrested from the Qing Dynasty after the First Opium War. After the Second Opium War in 1860, Kowloon Peninsula was ceded to Britain and in 1898 the New Territories were leased to the United Kingdom for 99 years.
By the time of the Second World War, Hong Kong had grown wealthy, though the European colonists and Chinese residents lived in very different worlds. The colonists, known as tai pan ("big shots") to the locals, had built railroads, schools and clubs, effectively isolating themselves from the native culture around them. Many Chinese lived near the harbor, while the tai pan largely lived further up Victoria Peak, away from the heat and bustle of the waterfront. Kowloon's famous Walled City, which had remained under nominal Chinese control under the treaty, became an infamous ghetto and one of the most densely populated spots on earth (the city was razed in 1993 and replaced by today's Kowloon Walled City Park).
All of this radically changed on December 8, 1941, when just eight hours after the attack on Pearl Harbor, Japanese bombs rained on Hong Kong. Commonwealth troops and Chinese volunteers held off the Japanese for 17 days until Christmas Day when Japan took the city. They would hold it until the end of the war, though Chinese guerrillas conducted raids and sabotage throughout. After the Japanese surrendered in 1945, Britain resumed control with 52 years remaining on its lease and a big question mark hanging over Hong Kong's future.
Despite the ongoing uncertainty, the economy boomed in the 1950s, fueled in large part by a flood of mainland Chinese who sought refuge from China's civil war. Many were wealthy Shanghainese who brought their businesses with them. With the matter of Hong Kong's return to China looming ever larger, uncertainty grew until 1984, when the Chinese and British Governments signed the Joint Declaration that would return the territory to China effective July 1, 1997. Under the Chinese slogan "One Country, Two Systems," Hong Kong largely retains its own economic and social systems, as well as a good deal of its colonial British character. It hasn't always been easy—Hong Kong has recently weathered the SARS epidemic and the Asian Financial Crisis—but despite rocky times the city is thriving, resilient as ever.
Climate
Spring is cool and pleasant with average temperatures running between about 17°C (63°F) and 23°C (73°F). Summer is hot and very humid, with average high temperatures from June through September running to 30°C (91°F) and humidity that hovers around 90%. Typhoon season lasts May to September with frequent downpours. Fall brings mild weather with averages between the low to mid 20s°C (70s°F) and clear skies. Winter is dry and can get chilly, averaging 17°C (62°F) with temperatures occasionally dipping into the mid-teens Centigrade (mid-50s°F). The best time to visit Hong Kong is in the spring and fall, when the weather is pleasant and the rain less frequent.
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Many of the best Hong Kong hotel deals are to be found in Kowloon with accommodation in Tsim Sha Tsui probably the best place to start looking for relatively central rooms that won't break the bank. L'Hotel Island South near the famous Ocean Park in Aberdeen offers one of the best deals on Hong Kong Island itself.
Though there are plenty of hotels to choose from, especially at the luxury end, you'll be hard pushed to find much under a grand. Hong Kong boasts some of the world's finest quality accommodation right in the heart of the city and if you're willing to drop several thousand a night, you could be staying at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong (the world's highest hotel), enjoying the stunning views from the Conrad or soaking up the sun from the rooftop pool of the uber-stylish W Hotel, one of China's most romantic hotels. If you're on a tight budget, however, you're likely to end up a considerable distance from the center. In farther flung corners of the New Territories or Shenzhen Bay, hotels such as Harbour Plaza Resort City or Regal Riverside will set you back HKD 400-600. Fortunately, Hong Kong's public transportation is outstanding and cheap and many such hotels also offer shuttle services. For the best results, always book ahead.
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If there's one thing Hong Kong residents like better than shopping, it's eating. Hong Kong's own cuisine is heavily influenced by Cantonese, with elements of regional Hakka cooking and other Chinese and Western styles added to the mix. The best place to start your exploration of Hong Kong cuisine is dim sum (also known as yum cha), whether for breakfast or lunch. Often selected tableside from carts, sometimes ordered from a menu card, dim sum features small portions of steamed or fried delicacies cooked and served in small bamboo steamers or presented on individual plates. Dim sum dishes include flaky turnip pastries, steamed shrimp dumplings (har gau), steamed BBQ pork buns (cha siu bao), pork dumplings (siu mai) and sweet coconut cakes or egg tarts—just to name a few.
For some of the best, try the Lin Heung Tea House in Central (be ready for a slight wait and be prepared to share a table), the Royal Garden Hotel in Kowloon or Maxim's Palace near the Star Ferry Terminal in Central. Tea (cha) is another key element—try po lay (a red tea) or a slightly stronger sau may (green tea). For popular coffee milks and milk teas try Lee Theatre Plaza, Times Square and Jardine's Crescent in Causeway Bay. Bubble teas and fruit juices are also popular, providing welcome refreshment on steamy days—try one of popular chain Hui Lau Shan's locations. Hong Kong also has great "fast" food and street food. Snack on crispy wonton noodles with beef, and sweet and sour meat in the street-front restaurants along Temple Street in Tsim Sha Tsui or try Mak's Noodles in Central or Happy Garden Noodle and Congee Kitchen in Tsim Sha Tsui.
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ia and around the world. Several daily
Hong Kong flights arrive from Chinese cities like
Beijing,
Shanghai,
Guangzhou and
Guilin. New arrivals can take the Airport Express train from the airport to Kowloon railway station (19 minutes) or Hong Kong railway station (23 minutes). Free shuttle buses run from these stations to the HK Convention and Exhibition Center and various
Hong Kong hotels. The Airport Express operates between 5:50am to 12:48am. Single journeys range from HKD 60 to HKD 100, depending on your destination. Departing passengers can even check in their bags at the Airport Express Terminal at Hong Kong Station 24 hours to 90 minutes before their flight.
Flights to Shenzhen: Some visitors prefer to fly directly to or from Shenzhen, right across the border from Hong Kong, rather than fly directly to Hong Kong. Shenzhen is connected by ferry, bus or via the KCR to Hong Kong.
Train
Hong Kong's Hung Hom Railway Station in Kowloon services direct trains to several locations in Guangzhou as well as Shanghai, Beijing and Zhaoqing. To get to Shenzhen by train, take any East Rail train from Hong Hum to Lo Wu. Check the MTR website (www.mtr.com.hk) for schedules and fares.
Boat
Hong Kong is connected by ferry to Macau, Shenzhen (Shekou), Zhuhai and a number of other ports in Guangdong Province from the China Ferry Terminal in Kowloon or the Hong-Kong Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island.
Bus
There are numerous bus services connecting Hong Kong to Mainland China. Check CTS Express Coach Service (www.ctsbushkcts.com) and Trans-Island Limousine Service (www.trans-island.com.hk) for details.
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If you love shopping, you'll love Hong Kong. It's that simple. Everywhere you turn there's something wonderful for sale. Hong Kong boasts luxury boutiques, vast malls, huge electronic markets, countless souvenir stalls, enough clothing stores to outfit the entire planet several times over and more, always more. Just remember to look for the red Hong Kong Tourist Board (HKTB) emblem on the shop. This signifies the owner is registered and in good standing. And don't forget to bargain.
The shopping is good on both sides of Victoria Harbor. Below is a quick guide to the best Hong Kong Island and Kowloon have to offer.
Central (Hong Kong Island)
The stores along Central's steep Hollywood Road include antiques, sports equipment, and large department stores. Nearby Stanley Street is a great place for cameras and other electronics. The alleys between Li Yuen Street East and Li Yuen Street West are packed with great little clothing stores. Luxury outlets for brands such as Versace, Prada, Gucci and Armani line Central's main streets.
Causeway Bay (Hong Kong Island)
East of Central, Causeway Bay is home to several fantastic shopping malls, including Times Square and the Japanese import, Sogo. A good spot to purchase cosmetics and electronics.
Stanley (Hong Kong Island)
Stanley, located in the south of Hong Kong Island, is home to a lovely bay and a large open-air market, chock full of bargains on clothing, toys, luggage, souvenirs, and arts and crafts. A good place to shop for silk garments and traditional-style Chinese fashions.
Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon)
Pure commerce: Over 700 shops line Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, spilling into adjacent lanes and alleys. Compared to the sleek skyscrapers and ultramodern malls across Victoria Harbor, it's not particularly pretty, but pretty is not the point. You'll likely be accosted by hawkers offering fake watches and Indian tailor-made suits (Britain's long stewardship of the region resulted in, among other things, a sizeable Indian population settling in Kowloon). Be wary of cameras, sunglasses and cheaper electrical goods here--they're often imitations and a number of tourists have complained of rip-off artists in the area. With a pinch of caution, however, it's another colorful thread in Hong Kong's tapestry. When the shopping buzz wears off, there are some good restaurants and bars in the area, including some good and affordable Indian food. If you're up for even more shopping, the nearby Harbor City Shopping Center offers a large selection of clothing and electronics for decent prices. Curio Ally south of Haiping Road sells Chinese knick-knacks and Tsim Sha Tsui's Austin Avenue remains one of the best places for affordable fashions. Narrow Midun Road in Kowloon hosts several reasonable tailor shops and leather stores. Find imported goods from around Asia, including Indian cloth and Japanese clothing, on Jianafen Road.
Mong Kok (Kowloon)
A fascinating area of cramped Chinese markets, visit Fa Yuen Street and Tong Choi Street for inexpensive clothing and second-hand electronics. The jade market on Kansu Street also makes for a popular stop--just be wary of fakes. In the evening, nearby Temple Street, not far from the Jordan Street MTR stop, comes alive with CD, VCD and DVD stalls and open-air restaurants. Known as the Night Market, you can purchase all sorts of the usual things: clothing, sunglasses, watches, jewelry... though you should be on your guard against fakes and bargain like mad.
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hin. That said, the
Hong Kong Arts Festival brings world-class classical music, jazz, dance, opera and theater to town every February, running into March. In the past it's hosted performers from Ornette Coleman to Yo Yo Ma to Jose Carreras and groups including the Royal Shakespeare Company and the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. Year round, the
Hong Kong Arts Centre and nearby
Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts are good bets for dance, music and opera, as is the
Hong Kong Cultural Centre, which is home to both the Western-style Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra and the largest Chinese instrumental group in the world, the Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra.
Museums & Galleries
For a selection of Chinese antiquities and classical art, including an excellent collection of work from China's southern
Guangdong Province, visit the
Hong Kong Museum of Art in Tsim Sha Tsui. The museum, housed in a blocky, almost windowless 1991 building near the Star Ferry terminal, also features regular international exhibitions. Also on the Kowloon side of Victoria Harbor is the fascinating
Hong Kong Museum of History, opened in 2001, which vividly tells the tale of Hong Kong from Neolithic settlement to today's ultramodern metropolis. The SAR's long list of museums likewise covers an impressive range of local, Chinese and international history, from the
Law Uk Folk Museum and
Sam Tung Uk Museum, both of which focus on the region's indigenous Hakka culture, to the
Hong Kong Science Museum.
Festivals & Events
One of Asia's most international cities, Hong Kong's annual calendar is chock-full of high profile events. Sports fans revel in the electric atmosphere of the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens (last weekend of March) and the Hong Kong Cricket Sixes (October), music fans can get jazzed up with the Hong Kong International Jazz Festival and the Hong Kong International Film Festival (March/April) is a must for movie buffs. Hong Kong's recent colonial history means that western festivals like Christmas, Halloween and Easter are all embraced with verve and of course, China's traditional festivals are celebrated according to the lunar calendar with Spring Festival (aka Chinese New Year) in the spring, the Dragon Boat Festival in the summer, and the Moon Festival or Mid-Autumn Festival in fall. Some of the most spirited local celebrations are to be seen during four of Hong Kong's classic festivals that take place in April and May: the Birthday of Lord Buddha, the birthday of local deities Tin Hau and Tam Kung and the unique Cheung Chau Bun Festival.
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