Harbin (Hā'ěrbīn, 哈尔滨) is full of surprises. The snow-capped onion domes and facades are more Petersburg or Paris than Peking, and with winding cobblestone streets, fantastically lit winter ice castles and modern Chinese economic vitality, Harbin is an incredibly warm and welcoming place for a city situated on the edge of Siberia.
Best known for the annual Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival (more commonly referred to as the Harbin Ice Festival, plain and simple), this unique city is beginning to make a name for itself for its other qualities, from the distinct Russian architecture typified by the Church of St. Sophia, to nearby skiing hotspots like Yabuli, to the concession-era "gallery of European architecture" found along Zhongyang Dajie, a cobblestone-paved pedestrian street.
Harbin's shopping is easily the best in northeastern China, the local cuisine is an intriguing blend of Russian and northern Chinese, and the surrounding Heilongjiang countryside—the province was part of historical Manchuria—is one of China's better-kept secrets, full of forests, lakes and mountains that have yet to feel the sting of overdevelopment and overcrowding.
Beijing to Harbin flights are cheap and quick, and an excellent modern airport is well served by flights to Harbin from throughout China Harbin flight schedule, making a quick weekend getaway a snap. Its relative remoteness makes train travel and bus slower propositions, but an outstanding road and rail infrastructure in and around the city ensure a fairly smooth approach.
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History
Originally a small Songhua River fishing village, Harbin became a city when Russia obtained permission to construct a railway into China in 1897. The border region of extreme terrain of mountains, fields, and forests was mirrored in the town's rough and ready population of railroad workers, nomads and traders from around Asia, including a Russian community that peaked around 200,000. After the Russian Revolution, a number of White Russians made Harbin their permanent home. The city fell under Japanese control during World War II, causing much of the the foreign population to flee. The Chinese regained control of Harbin in 1946 after a brief period of Russian rule following the end of the war.
Today, a number of Russians are returning to Harbin. Along with the rest of China, Harbin is experiencing economic boom times, though not without cost—in 2005 a factory accidentally dumped huge quantities of toxic benzene into the Songhua River, temporarily shutting down the city's water supply and making Harbin a prime example of China's need to balance environmental protection with industrial growth.
Climate
Harbin has long, cold winters and cool, short summers. Between July and September, the city becomes a pleasant summer resort, averaging temperatures of 20 ºC (68 ºF). Harbin winters can be very cold, with temperatures plummeting as low as -40 ºC (-40 ºF). Snow starts as early as November and the coldest month is January. However, the winter months are a great time to visit Harbin, when the city is a fantastic world of snow and ice. Dress in plenty of layers, and punctuate your visit to the festival with frequent trips inside for a hot drink or hearty stew.
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Harbin's proximity to Russia gives visitors a wide selection of Western cuisine along with plenty of unique Chinese dishes. You can find several restaurants that serve filling Russian-style soups and meals. Try the Russian dishes at the highly recommended Huamei Restaurant or Café Russia known for its delicious piroshkis (stuffed Russian buns) and cabbage rolls.
If you prefer to stick with Chinese food, there are many different cuisines available. Lanterns hanging outside the Chinese restaurants indicate what kind of foods they serve, a practice unique to Harbin. Red lanterns denote typical Chinese food, while blue lanterns mean pork-free Muslim food. It is also said that the more lanterns a restaurant has, the better quality the food is.
The fare is wonderful and varied. Enjoy cheap BBQ at the loud Mingjie Kaoroudian or the steamed dumplings at Oriental Dumplings King. Some local Harbin dishes you may wish to try: Harbin Red Sausage. Harbin red sausage has a pleasant smoky taste. It is usually eaten with bread and beer. Buy the red-colored sausage at any of the sales stands you see on the streets of Harbin, and you won't regret it. Chicken Stewed with Mushrooms is a famous Dongbei dish. Fresh chicken and mushrooms are stewed with ginger and shallots, creating a well-rounded meal that warms city dwellers during the cold winters.
Another winter treat: Pickled Chinese Cabbage Stew. Pickled Chinese cabbage is a common condiment for families of northeast China. When it gets too cold for the open-air markets, families preserve their vegetables to last the long, cold season. As winter approaches, local people fill big clay pots with cabbages, adding water and salt, before placing a large stone on the top of the jar. After about a month, the cabbages ferment and grow sour, and can be eaten throughout the winter. These pickled cabbages make for a hearty, delicious meal when stewed with meat.
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As one of the largest cities in northeast China, Harbin enjoys an ideal geographic location convenient for all means of transportation to and from the city. Harbin also acts as one of China's gateways into Siberia, Russia and northeast Asia.
Getting Around
Bus
Harbin has an efficient and organized public transportation system. There are over a hundred public bus routes connecting every important spot to the rest of the city. The best way to travel by bus is to pick up a local map with all the updated bus routes and schedules when you arrive in Harbin.
Taxi
The easiest way to get around is by taxi, because thousands of taxis roam the streets at any time of day. It's helpful to have the written Chinese characters on hand in case your taxi driver cannot understand you; it's great to practice your Chinese, but you don't want to end up in the wrong place! When taking a taxi, It shouldn't cost you more than 20 RMB to reach most destinations within the city.
To and from Harbin
Air
In addition to convenient Harbin flight connections to most of China's major cities, Harbin also has regular flights to cities in Russia, South Korea, and Japan. There are shuttle buses to and from Harbin Taiping International Airport (Hāěrbīn Tàipíng Guójì Jīchǎng, 哈尔滨太平国际机场) available every twenty minutes from the CAAC office on 224 Zhongshan Lu (Zhōngshān Lù, 中山路).
Train
Numerous trains depart and arrive in Harbin every day. From Harbin, direct trains run to Dalian, Shanghai, Beijing, Wuhan, Tianjin and Shenyang. There are also express trains to other provincial destinations in Heilongjiang such as Jiamusi, Qiqihar, Suihuan and Mudanjiang. There are two major train stations in Harbin: Harbin Railway Station (Hā'ěrbīn Zhàn, 哈尔滨站) and Harbin East Railway Station (Hā'ěrbīn Dōng Zhàn, 哈尔滨东站). More trains leave the former Harbin train station, while the east train station mostly serves other Heilongjiang cities. For information by phone, call the inquiry and reservation hotline at (86 451) 9510 5688.
Into Siberia & Russia from northern Heilongjiang there are border crossing points into Siberia. From Harbin, take the train to Heihe (there are a number of daily trains leaving from both stations). From here, you can get into Russia (with the right paperwork). You can also take the train from Harbin to Suifenhe where a ten-hour bus journey takes passengers on to Vladivostok. Be warned that all these routes are long and arduous. Visas for Siberia and Russia should be arranged in Beijing, although some travelers have reported they managed to get them in Shenyang. To get a Visa, all accommodation in Russia must be prearranged; it can become quite costly. The most straightforward way to get into Russia is on the Trans-Siberian express to Moscow. A trip on this train is a real experience (see Paul Theroux's novel, Riding the Iron Rooster). The train stops in Harbin every Friday morning.
Bus
Because of the remote location of Harbin, it is not easy to travel to and from central China to Harbin by bus. However, regular buses link the city with other provincial capitals such as Changchun and Shenyang. There is also access by bus from here to Mudanjiang, Jiamusi, Daqing and Hegang.
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Harbin is not known for being a shopping mecca. Although there is the occasional charming boutique found in the Daoli District (Dàolǐ Qū, 道里区), most shoppers find themselves limited to buying food products unique to the area. If you feel like filling up on some local delicacies, Harbin prides itself on the following items:
Dog salmon
The harsh climate in Harbin toughens up the physique of every living animal. Dog salmon (dàmǎhā yú, 大马哈鱼) certainly fits that bill. To withstand the freezing cold in winter, the salmon in Harbin grows a layer of fat that makes it extra tasty for dishes such as fish slices, fish ball soup and salted fish. When you visit Harbin, don't forget to sample this prime example of "survivor of the fittest!"
Sturgeon
Although Harbin is not a coastal city, it still boasts a good selection of freshwater fish. Aside from dog salmon, sturgeon (xúnhuáng yú, 鲟鳇鱼) is probably the most well-known seafood. The largest of these fish can weigh several pounds. Long known as "the King" of fish, sturgeon is served on very special occasions in Harbin.
Monkey-head mushroom
Most foreign travelers are unfamiliar with this unusual food. Monkey-head mushroom (hóutóu gū, 猴头菇), is one of China's most famous delicacies. The fungus is renowned for its healing properties, especially for an upset stomach.
Harbin sausage
The major difference between Harbin sausage and Russian sausage lies in the seasoning. The Chinese variety contains cinnamon and round cardamom. The Harbinese enjoy a good drink with their sausage!
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Harbin offers a wide variety of cultural and recreational entertainment revolving around the icy cold weather. Finding unique ways to stay warm in the frigidly cold climate can be an art and source of entertainment in and of itself. The city's architecture and Russian roots make this a unique and attractive Chinese city.
Harbin Ice Festival
The Harbin Ice Festival, established in 1985, is held annually from January 5 to mid-February. The festival covers most of the city and features stunning ice and snow sculptures. During past festivals, the city has reproduced scaled-down versions of the Great Wall, Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City, as well as animals, buildings, and slides. Each sculpture is lit from within creating a magical multicolored ice carving. The result is an enchanting surreal world of glistening color. If you're headed to the festival, put on as much clothing as you can, then add some more- even the air is ice cold. Admission for individual displays varies and some sculptures can be viewed for free. Tickets for the major attractions, like the Ice and Snow Palace, range from RMB 30-100.
Church of St. Sophia
The beautifully restored building is one of the few remaining Orthodox churches left in Harbin. Inside, a photography exhibit showcases Harbin's culturally rich Russian, Chinese and Japanese heritage.
Harbin's Neighborhoods
Although much of its old architecture has been replaced by modern skyscrapers, many corners of the city still retain the stylistic designs of imperial Russia. Walk along the Songhua River (Sōnghuā Jiāng, 松花江) into the city's Daoli District (Dàolǐ Qū, 道里区), which houses most of the city's historic buildings.
Bars & Clubs
Many of the bars in this city not surprisingly have a strong Russian influence, meaning, lots of vodka. Check out Guogeli Jie (Guǒgēlǐ Jiē, 果戈里街), a bar street located near the Harbin Railway Station (Hā'ěrbīn Zhàn, 哈尔滨站), or Diduan Jie (Dìduàn Jiē, 地段街). Both locations offer popular drinking establishments, such as the popular Mozart Bar, karaoke venues and a few clubs.
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