Hangzhou casts an enchanting spell. Marco Polo marveled that it was "the most beautiful and elegant place in the world" and a popular Chinese saying boasts "above there is heaven, below there is Hangzhou." The serene loveliness of Hangzhou's West Lake (Xi Hu) and the surrounding hills remain spellbinding, even if realities of modern life—such as massive crowds of camera-happy tourists—occasionally intrude. Millions of tourists visit every year to admire Hangzhou's graceful willows, tranquil waters and expansive gardens. If you can, shoot for a weekday visit to avoid the inevitable weekend crowds.
History
Hangzhou has known centuries of wealth and high culture, profiting from the region's famous silks and teas. Hangzhou grew in political importance during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279 AD) after Jurchen invaders from present-day Mongolia ransacked the Song capital Kaifeng. Emperor Gaozong (1107-1187 AD) fled to Hangzhou, where he set up his new capital. The imperial court's patronage boosted Hangzhou's importance as a commercial hub and brought China's best scholars, artists and poets to the city.
The healthy silk and tea trade expanded during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD). The 1,000 km Grand Canal linked the city to distant Beijing and to ocean trade routes to Japan, Korea, Southeast Asia and the Middle East. The city's population grew in number and wealth. Merchants and officials led lives of leisure, building extravagant homes and pleasure boats for West Lake. The city's fame brought curious visitors throughout the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and Emperors Kangxi (1662-1722) and Qianlong (1711-1799) held court in Hangzhou, the latter building a palace on Solitary Island (Gu Shan) and an imperial library.
Hangzhou suffered greatly during the Taiping Rebellion and was largely reduced to rubble after being taken by the rebels in 1861 and retaken imperial armies two years later. A little over a century later, many remaining monuments were lost during the upheaval of the Cultural Revolution, requiring major reconstruction to return the city to something like its former glory. Today, much of the city has been restored and it's easily one of the most popular tourist spots in the country.
Climate
Hangzhou experiences four distinct seasons with cold winters (average temperature of 3º C (37º F)) and hot summers (average of 29º C (84º F)). Summers are rainy through May-July and can grow exceedingly humid. Whatever the weather, Hangzhou paints a pretty picture. In the winter, light snow blankets stone brides and walkways and spring and summer bring blooms of flowers. The best time to visit Hangzhou is in the fall, when the weather cools and the rains decrease.
Staying in Hangzhou can be somewhat pricey, but cheap digs can be found. If you're planning to stay in budget accommodations during the peak season, be sure to call ahead and reserve a room.
Student dorm style rooms can be found at around 100 RMB a night for backpackers and those on shoestring budgets. Rooms at mid-range hotels tend to average about 450 RMB, while high-end hotels can charge up to 1300 RMB a night.
Popular throughout China, Zhejiang cuisine—named after the province in which Hangzhou lies—is considered to be one of China's eight great culinary traditions. Hangzhou's take on Zhejiang cuisine emphasizes fresh fish, chicken, ample use of tender bamboo shoots and Longjing tea marinade. Try local dishes like xihu cu yu ("West Lake Fish" prepared with vinegar), longjing xiaren (shrimp fried with Longjing tea), and the famous jiaohua ji ("Beggar's Chicken," stuffed chicken wrapped in lotus leaves and cooked in clay). Given the ever-increasing number of foreign tourists and the growing taste Chinese have for international cuisines, Hangzhou also is home to a number of good non-Chinese restaurants.
The 100-some-year-old Louwailou Caiguan on Gushan (Solitary Hill Island) attracts huge crowds with its authentic dishes and great view. Huazhong Cheng Restaurant boasts a famous local chef and the city's Yan'an Lu Fish Market allows diners to peruse the day's catch before hand-picking their dinner. The four floors of Zhiweiguan Restaurant house a seafood restaurant, a bar and karaoke rooms. For those who prefer Western food, Italian restaurant, Va Bene, opened in Xi Hu Tiandi, a new high-end retail complex. Another popular choice, Paulaner Brauhaus, offers German fare and beer.
Getting Around
You can easily walk, bike or bus around West Lake and most of the surrounding area.
Tourist bus lines run from 8:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. A sample of routes:
Line 1: Circles West Lake to Lingyin Temple
Line 2: Railway Station to Lingyin Temple
Line 3: Circles West Lake to Hangzhou Zoo, via Tea Museum Biking around West Lake can be very enjoyable. Bike rental stands line the path around West Lake. Rent requires a deposit of 300-1,000 RMB with rates ranging from 6-15 RMB/hour.
To and from Hangzhou
Air
Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport lies 15 km from Hangzhou's center, operating 44 domestic routes and 13 international routes, including several daily flights to Beijing, Guangzhou, and Hong Kong. Arrivals can travel by taxi (around 60 RMB) or shuttle bus (20 RMB) to the city.
Train
Both Hangzhou New Railway Station and the East Railway Station land passengers a short bus or taxi ride from the city center. Check their tickets for the correct train station. Daily train destinations from Hangzhou include Wenzhou, Ningbo, Guangzhou, Shanghai and Beijing. Book tickets at the station or by phone: 95 0011 7788.
Bus
Four long-distance bus stations outside the city center service Hangzhou. Shuttle buses run from the city's railroad stations to the long-distance bus stations. Bus routes travel to several nearby cities like Shanghai, Ningbo, Haining, and Huang Shan (Yellow Mountain). Buy bus tickets in the bus station or within a Construction Bank branch in Hangzhou.
Boat
Boats run from Wuxi and Suzhou to Hangzhou, on the Grand Canal. The overnight boat trip takes 13 hours. Purchase tickets at Hangzhou's wharf near Huancheng Bei Lu.
Hangzhou is justly famous for tea and silk, but it's also a great place for freshwater pearls, local crafts, fans, antiques and souvenirs. The night market is a good bet for bargains, as are the Hangzhou Tower Shopping Center in Wulin Square and the stalls of the Sijiqing Clothing Market. Don't forget to haggle.
Hangzhou Tea
Tea production dates back two thousand years in China and Hangzhou's climate creates an ideal location for a green tea known as Longjing tea, as well as chrysanthemum tea. You can see Longjing tea growing and sample it at the source at Longjing Tea Plantation, and many stalls and vendors sell this refreshing tea throughout the city. Hangzhou's chrysanthemum tea (baijuhua cha) is made by mixing jasmine and chrysanthemum flowers with tea leaves during processing. According to Chinese traditional medicine, chrysanthemum detoxifies the body.
Hangzhou Silk
Along with that of nearby Suzhou, Hangzhou silk ranks among the best in the world, and Hangzhou satin is considered by many to be the absolute best. You can find good deals on silk at the Hangzhou Friendship Store, at Hangzhou Silk City (Zhongguo Sichou Cheng) or shops along Jiefang Lu. The silk market between Fengqi Lu and Tianmushan Lu is known for low prices, but watch out for fake stuff. If you have the time, Hangzhou's tailors have the skills: get a custom-made garment from one of the city's many needle-and-thread experts.
Hangzhou Silk Parasols
Made from Hangzhou silk and Zhejiang bamboo, Hangzhou Silk Parasols have shaded royalty and locals alike for centuries. Available in an array of colors and designs, look for merchants at major tourist attractions as well as the Hangzhou Friendship Store.
West Lake transforms at night from placid to flashy, with waterside light shows and musical fountains. Despite the kitsch and fanfare, there are still plenty of secluded spots for contemplative or romantic interludes. In general, Hangzhou's nightlife is a far cry from that of nearby Shanghai, but you can easily find places for a drink, a dance and some music—and it's always pleasant to relax in a Hangzhou teahouse.
Bars & Clubs
Try tea and snack at Chenghaung Teahouse or the lakeside Hu Pan Ju Teahouse. If you're looking for a drink and some excitement, check out Paradise Rock, Lake of the Dream or a beer at the inevitable Irish pub, the Shamrock. Cocktails are decent and often accompanied by live music at Kana Pub and Hangzhou's JZ Club is a good bet for live jazz. The Traveler's Pub lives up to its name, drawing backpackers as well as students from the nearby Hangzhou Academy of Art and staging music—generally folk or jazz—on weekends.
Museums & Galleries
China's active contemporary art scene is represented in Hangzhou by Loft 49—a converted industrial space with galleries, studios and a café. Other galleries, including the 411 Gallery and Contrasts regularly exhibit the latest in Chinese contemporary art. The region's local opera style—Yue opera—can be experienced at the Yuanyuan Minsu Theater daily. Museums showcase art and other aspects of local culture—visit the Zhejiang Provincial Museum on Gu Shan in the middle of West Lake for their fine collection of relics and artifacts from the region's history.
Festivals & Events
Hangzhou is also a great place for festivals. Check out the spring Longjing Spring Tea Festival, the summer West Lake Lotus Festival or autumn Sweet-Scented Osmanthus Festival.