The mist-shrouded peaks, forested slopes, Buddhist temples, well-worn paths and winding stone stairs of Emei Shan (Mount Emei) have drawn countless pilgrims over the centuries. Today, it is one of Sichuan's most popular tourist destinations. Though huge crowds converge on Emei Shan during peak seasons, you can still find plenty of secluded spots on this vast mountain if you're willing to hike a bit off from the main attractions. Whether you walk and climb all the way or take shortcuts via bus and cable car, Emei Shan offers splendid views of rugged mountains, classical Chinese temple architecture (with some Tibetan characteristics) and insight into Chinese religion, aesthetics and their relationship to the nation's sublime natural landscapes.
Keep an eye out for representations of the six-tusked elephant who symbolizes the Bodhisattva Puxian. Also watch out for pesky monkeys looking to snack on whatever food you might have with you (if held up at a monkey checkpoint, show your hands, palms up and empty, and don't let them intimidate you). The mountain is huge—its long profile seen from a distance gives it its name, which translates to "Eyebrow Mountain" (one belonging to a beautiful woman, of course)—and you can easily spend two or three days trekking about, sleeping in temple guest houses and exploring sites natural and man-made. Sunrise from Jinding (the Golden Summit) can be exquisite. If you're lucky, you might catch sight of "Buddha's Halo," a phenomonon in which your shadow, cast against clouds beneath the peak, takes on a rainbow aura.
For more on individual Emei Shan attractions, from Baoguo Temple to Wanfoding (Thousand Buddha Summit), visit our Emei Shan Attractions page.
History
Emei Shan's sublime beauty makes it rather apparent why it's sacred to Buddhists. It's not just Buddhists, either—before the Bodhisattva Puxian arrived on his trusty six-tusked elephant in the 6th century, the mountain was primarily a Taoist retreat.
Many claim that China's first Buddhist temple was built on the mountain in the first century BC. It remained a spiritual sanctuary for both religions until, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1634 AD), the mountain experienced a temple-building boom along with the conversion of almost all religious sites to Buddhism.
Given its remoteness and rugged landscape, Emei Shan remained relatively unchanged through the 19th century. By the mid-twentieth century, fires, the war against the Japanese and the destructive excesses of the Cultural Revolution left many of the temples and monasteries worse for the wear, but many have been renovated or rebuilt in recent years.
Climate
Thanks to its unique microclimates, the mountain is home to a rich diversity of plant and animal life. From its subtropical lower reaches to its sub-alpine peaks, Emei Shan is well watered, making it lush in spring and summer, gracing it with colorful foliage in the fall and mantling it in snow in winter. The mountain's peaks average 15ºC cooler than the surrounding countryside, making it a pleasant escape from Sichuan's scorching summers but freezing cold in the depths of winter.
The most popular period to visit runs between May and October, with national holidays bringing the tour-bus crowds. Winter can be a wonderful time to visit too—you'll have much of the mountain to yourself, the skies are clearer and the views jaw-dropping—but you must be prepared for alpine winter conditions.
Precipitation is a constant. You can expect at least a little rain or snow if you're on the mountain for a day or two, depending on the season, so pack and dress accordingly. Parkas are useful, as are umbrellas, especially fixed-length ones that can double as walking sticks to steady you on often-slippery trails and stairs. Good shoes or boots with heavy, treaded soles are recommended, especially if you tackle the mountain in winter, when you're also advised to strap on some cleats for extra traction (you can rent them at various spots along the way or in Emei Town, where you'll likely start out).
Also recommended is a good flashlight (torch), just in case you find yourself out on the trail at dusk surrounded by hungry monkeys (seriously... and a walking stick might help, too, as the monkeys can get a bit pushy).
One of the pleasures of a few days on Emei Shan should, ideally, be a night or two spent on the mountain sleeping in temple guest houses. And indeed it can be pleasant, but you should keep a few things in mind before setting out.
First, during the high season, which runs roughly from May into October with peaks during the May 1 holiday (though the May 1 "Golden Week" has been done away with), the October 1 holiday (which retains its Golden Week) and weekends from June through August, be sure you don't wait too late in the day to find a room. It's all too easy to find yourself on a trail an hour or so out from a temple toward sunset, only to find, once you straggle in, that there's no where to sleep—nowhere relatively soft and dry, at least.
Conditions in guest houses vary, from often-damp but cheap (RMB 15-40) dorm-style rooms to private rooms in non-temple guesthouses with varying degrees of privacy, heat, air and hot water (RMB 150-300). Many of these private guesthouses are to be found at Golden Summit, accessible to the non-trekking masses via the bus-cable car combo.
If you yourself are of the non-hiking kind, you might opt to stay in Baoguo Village at the Teddy Bear Hotel, Hongzhushan Binguan or Shuxiang Hotel and make day trips from your hotel base. All provide relatively simple but comfortable and clean accomodation and good, up-to-date information on mountain conditions. Baguo VIllage is also the spot to catch buses to Jinshui, half way up the mountain, and Jieyin Hall, approaching the peak. Both spots are cable car terminals, allowing easy conveyance to Wannian Temple and Jinding Temple (Golden Summit).
Even if you're "roughing it" by hiking everywhere on Emei Shan, you won't have to worry about food. Numerous food stalls and tea houses can be found on the mountain and most temples offer simple Buddhist vegetarian fare. Nonetheless, it's a good idea, if you are hiking, to carry water and a bit of food, though you'll want to keep the food under wraps in case you're waylaid by Emei Shan's famous monkey bandits. If that happens, show them your empty hands, don't let them rattle you and just keep on keepin' on. Don't give in to the temptation, if you feel it, to feed them.
In Emei Town, the Teddy Bear Cafe is a popular spot with good food, and you'll find a number of other small eateries and hotel restaurants serving decent Chinese food. On a related but separate subject, don't forget to bring your own toilet paper.
Getting Around
Many visitors come to Emei Shan to hike, and for those, placing one foot in front of the other is the best mode of transportation. Maps are easy to come by and you are encouraged to wander around the mountain, popping into the monasteries along the way. For the rest, a bus will take you about halfway up the mountain for around RMB 20 or pretty close to the top for RMB 40. A cable car will get you within a few steps of the summit.
To and from Emei Shan
Most likely you'll start out on your trip to Emei Shan from the town of Emei, located 6.5 kilometers from the mountain's entrance (at Baoguo village). Trips to Emei Town usually depart from Chengdu, the transportation hub of Sichuan, by train or bus (a two or three hour trip usually).
Bus
There is no direct bus route from Emei Town to the park entrance in Baoguo. Most visitors opt to catch a taxi for the approximately RMB 20 trip. If you insist on public transportation, try to find the No. 1 bus near at the long-distance bus station. Ride the No. 1 for one stop and transfer to the No. 5, which will get you to Baoguo. There are buses returning to Emei Town from the gate at Baoguo and also buses directly back to Chengdu (and Leshan and Chongqing if you're continuing on).
Train
Train travel exists between Emei Town and Chengdu, Kunming and Wushihe. The train station is 3.5 kilometers from town, but the No. 4 bus or a cab will get you there with no problem.