This desert town near the old Silk Road rewards visitors with an astonishing archeological treasure carved out of bedrock and cliffs: the Mogao Caves. The caves' Buddhist paintings and artifacts are stunning and Dunhuang (Dūnhuáng, 敦煌) itself is worth a stay for its relaxed oasis atmosphere. Historically the last Chinese outpost on the Silk Road, Dunhuang has a long history of taking care of weary travelers.
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History
Dunhuang sits at the edge of the Gobi Desert at the juncture of the western provinces of Gansu and Qinghai and the Xinjiang autonomous region. Historically, the town prospered as a fertile agricultural oasis (it's especially famous for its melons and grapes) and as the country's westernmost military garrison during the Han (202 BC-220 AD) and Tang (618-907 AD) dynasties. Founded by Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty in 111 BC, Dunhuang served as a base for soldiers watching over Silk Road caravans. For centuries, Dunhuang was the last familiar stop for Chinese traders heading west, sometimes even going as far as the Roman Empire.
Dunhuang was a surprisingly cosmopolitan place. Persian merchants rubbed elbows with rough-and-tumble Mongolian horse traders and itinerant Tibetan and Indian Buddhist monks espoused various Buddhist teachings. In its heyday, Dunhuang became wealthy as gold, silver, fine glass, fragrances, spices, exotic animals, and fruit passed through. The combination of wealth and Buddhism led to the slow and dedicated creation of the Mogao Caves. Work began during the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-581 BC), peaked during the Tang, then continued until its eventual abandonment during the Mongol Yuan Dynasty.
By time the Tang fell in 907 AD, trade along the Silk Road had diminished and Dunhuang began to slip into isolation until the late nineteenth century when Central Asia's strategic importance spurred international political intrigue. Britain, France, Germany, Russia and Japan played their parts in the "Great Game," and Dunhuang had its role, too. In 1906, Aurel Stein, a Hungarian in the service of the British, learned that a Chinese monk, Wang Yuanlu, was excavating and restoring a complex of long-lost caves full of amazing treasures. In no time, Stein purchased a stack of priceless Buddhist manuscripts and Tang paintings and was off to peddle them to the British Museum. Not long after, the Frenchman Paul Piellot did the same for the Louvre. Today, despite Chinese attempts to recover these treasures, they remain in Europe. Intervening years, however, have led to further discoveries and the caves themselves remain as testaments to Dunhuang's glory days.
Climate
Located in arid Gansu Province, Dunhuang experiences lots of sunshine, little rainfall and four distinct seasons. Winter brings freezing temperatures, averaging -2°C (29°F), while summer days peak around 32°C (90°F) on average. Throughout the year, winds whip up occasional sand storms. Always carry sunglasses, a hat, extra water and handkerchiefs, just in case. The best time to visit Dunhuang and the Silk Road region is from May through October when the weather warms.
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The main staple in the Dunhuang diet is wheat flour, most commonly used to make noodles, served with lamb, chicken or beef. Niàng pízi, (酿皮子) made from pea flour that turns into a clear, white noodle, is also popular. These noodles are usually seasoned with hot peppers and served cold any time of day. Sāozǐ (臊子) is a common noodle soup served with meat and vegetables. Stuffed bread (vegetable, meat or both) and kebabs can be found all around the city and are a great snack. Donkey meat yellow noodles (lǘròu huáng miàn, 驴肉黄面) are another savory and popular local dish.
Most of the hotels in town have decent restaurants; among the best is the Dunhuang Hotel, good for local dishes and hotpot.
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Getting around Dunhuang
Taxis and minibuses bring travelers to the city's main destinations. Many tourists hire private cars—ask your hotel staff for more information. Some brave souls get around by bike, which can be pleasant enough in the evening or cooler months but can be tough going in the hot summer.
To and from Dunhuang
Air
Dunhuang Airport (Dūnhuáng Jīchǎng, 敦煌机场) lies 13 km (8 mi) east of the city and offers direct flights to Beijing, Lanzhou, Xi'an and Urumqi. Regular buses run from the CAAC offices on Dong Dajie (Dōng Dàjiē, 东大街) near the Dunhuang Hotel to the airport.
Train
The closest train station (Dūnhuáng Huǒchēzhàn, 敦煌火车站) lies 10 km (6 mi) to the northeast of town and services Lanzhou, Turpan, Urumqi and other cities in the region. Trains bound for more distant locations leave from Liuyuan (Liǔyuán, 柳园), 130 km (80.8 miles) to the north. The Liuyuan station services trains from cities like Shanghai, Beijing, Xi'an, Chengdu, Lanzhou and Urumqi. A bus runs from the train station to Dunhuang.
Bus
The Dunhuang Bus Station (Dūnhuáng Qìchēzhàn, 敦煌汽车站) is at 25 Mingshan Lu (Míngshān Lù, 鸣山路25号) near the center of the city. Dunhuang hosts buses to and from Lanzhou, Xi'an, Hami (Hāmì, 哈密), Turpan and Urumqi, among others.
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Many claim that Dunhuang's Shazhou Night Market (Shāzhōu Yèshì, 沙洲夜市) has the best selection of local handicrafts, antiques, jade, silk and tea in town, though you can often times find the same stuff at the Grand Market (Dà Shìchǎng, 大市场) at more reasonable prices. The Mogao Caves are surrounded by a variety of shops offering "authentic" handicrafts mimicking the cave artiwork created by the monks, pilgrims and scholars.
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Besides visiting the Mogao Caves, there's not a lot to do in Dunhuang, at least not at first glance. Give the city a chance, however, and you're likely to find enough to entertain and edify for a stay of several days.
Outdoor recreation
The Mingsha sand dunes at Crescent Moon Lake can be a lot of fun. You can rent sleds, ride camels and tumble down the dunes to your heart's content.
Bars & clubs
The best place to grab a drink in town is at the Shazhou Night Market (Shāzhōu Yèshì, 沙洲夜市) or Yangguan Dong Lu (Yángguān Dōng Lù, 阳关东路). There are a few bars inside some of the city's hotels on Mingshan Lu (Míngshān Lù, 鸣山路) but drinks are much more expensive here.
Performing arts
A Summer of Dunhuang (Dūnhuáng Zhī Xià: Fēitiān Gēwǔ Yǎnchū, 敦煌之夏:飞天歌舞演出) show runs from June through October at the Dunhuang Hotel (Dunhuang Binguan), celebrating the long-gone golden age of the Silk Road with song and dance numbers as well as interpretive dance that's intended to evoke the spirit of the Mogao Caves. In the spring there is the occasional mini-festival, which in the past has featured Meihu Opera (Méihù Jù, 眉户剧), acrobats and dancing.
Museums & galleries
The Mogao Caves provide Dunhuang with its impressive collection of history and art. With more than 50,000 Buddhist writings and mural paintings inside the caves, the site is a major repository of western China's history (predominately the 3rd century). Despite looting, the caves still contain an astonishing number of images depicting various scenes from Buddhist lore. Who needs a museum with caves like these?
Festivals & events
Other than the Summer of Dunhuang festival, Dunhuang's celebrations seem to be limited to the Shazhou Night Market. Open all night long to take advantage of cooler temperatures, the market is a lively place.
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