Stuck in the deep west of Yunnan province surrounded on three sides by Myanmar, the Dehong Autonomous Prefecture has been thriving off trade with Myanmar since the border opened up in 1990.
Visitors to the region are able to buy some of the cheapest jewels and jade wares in the world. Many domestic travelers come here specifically to get first dibs on goods coming in from India, Thailand, Myanmar and Laos. Many business-savy visitors extend their stays in order to set up their own businesses.
Dehong's population is half Han Chinese and half minorities, mainly Jingpo and Dai. The Burmese minority, which are employed mainly in border trade, are readily visible in their national dress of traditional sarongs.
The highlights of the area are Hinayana Buddist temples, sprawling kilometers of Banyan trees, pagodas, the subtropical natural scenery, minority culture and border trade.
The border town of Ruili (whose name means "fortunate" and "beautiful") is starting clean up its reputation of drugs and prostitution. Some predict the town to become the next big destination in Yunnan for travelers.
Browsing the markets in Ruili, you will come across some Burmese stallholders. During the political unrest in Rangoon in 1988 and 1991, these Muslims fled religious persecution by taking refuge in China and never left.
One notable aspect of Dehong is the existence of so many border crossings that you need to be careful to not cross by accident.
History
The Dehong region was inhabited long before Emperor Wu (Han Dynasty 156 - 87 BC) decided to pave parts of the Southern Silk Road in 109 BC. The Southern Silk Road was an important trade route through the mountains and valleys of Yunnan, linking Baoshan with Dehong and delving far into Burma, India and other bordering countries. During the Han and Tang Dynasties (618 -907 AD) this line of communication created ties between China and the countries in Asia, Africa and Europe. It also played a role in developing the economy and culture of the minority groups on China's southwestern border.
In 1277, Kublai Khan fought a famous battle in Baoshan, the neighboring region to Dehong. With 12,000 Mongol troops, Khan beat out the 60,000 Burmese soldiers and their 2,000 elephants in large-scale warfare against the Burmese king. As the story goes, Khan’s archers were able to start a stampede of the Burmese elephants back against their own lines. Khan then left relatives to govern from within walled towns.
Later, the area was mainly controlled by hereditary land owners. In the 1940s, 250,000 Chinese troops fought to keep the Japanese from invading through Burma. The Japanese Air Force repeatedly bombed the Flying Tigers base not far from Dehong. The Flying Tigers were a volunteer group from the American army who trained in Burma before the Americans joined WWII. They are famous for downing 300 enemy aircraft with a loss of only twelve of their own in combat.
In most recent times, Dehong has gotten a reputation for the types of weird and wonderful goods that have passed through the border. Yunnan's most western town, Ruili, has especially become notorious for being the main entry point for Burmese heroin to China. The illegal drug trafficking has lead to a local pun "Feed a chicken in China and you get an egg in Burma."
Climate
The humid, subtropical wet season lasts from May to October. During this time be prepared for heavy rain.The hottest months of the year are April to September with average temperatures of 25 C. The average temperature from November to March is 19 C.
It's a good idea to check out rooms in any accommodations before committing to anything. With the humidity, some places have a tendency to be a little dingy.
Ruili and Luxi are the two towns where you'll most likely end up staying. Zhongyu Beinguan, in Luxi, has huge, clean and well priced guestrooms.
Ruili has a few more choices but is a bit more dangerous; although Beijing has been throwing a lot of money into cleaning up the area, the town has long had a problem with prostitution and drug-trafficking . The New Kaitong International Hotel of Ruili is the nicest place to stay in the area. Jingcheng is a 4-star with a gym and pool. Mandalay Garden is a cozy backpackers run by Moe, a friendly Burmese guy with dorms for 20 RMB. Other inexpensive sleeps are: Limin, Nanyang and Ruili.
Bug spray and a mosquito net are a good idea to carry around while outside of the major towns.
Restaurants are scattered around the prefecture, most of them located in Ruili, Luxi or nearby the tourist attractions. The many restaurants nearby the area's attractions or at the end of hiking trails have a variety of regional cuisines and cool drinks. These places often times offer Thai, Burmese and Chinese dishes but usually come at a higher cost than the places in town. There are a couple coffee places in Luxi which are good places to meet fellow travelers.
In Ruili around Xinjian Lu, there are a number of stalls serving hot pot, buns and grilled meats. Moongsee joh is a sandwich made from purple glutinous rice pancakes spread with sugar and peanut butter. The Burmese restaurants and cafes are worth checking out on Jiegang Lu with some tasty curries for 8 RMB. Bobos is the favorite on Xin'nan Lu, their banana pie is an ever popular treat.
Dehong can be navigated around on foot but taxis are also quite affordable. There are no meters so be sure and agree on your price before jumping in the back seat; 5 RMB is commonly considered the flat rate.
To and From Dehong
Bus
There are many long-distance buses that travel to Dehong from neighboring counties. Departure times are never fixed so it's best to contact the stations directly in order to obtain the most accurate scheduling information:
Dali Bus Station: 0692 2121 437
Longchuan Bus Station: 0692 7173 218
Lianghe Bus Station: 0692 6165 666
Luxi North Bus Station: 0692 2121 437
Luxi South Bus Station: 0692 2114 694
Ruili Bus Station: 0692 4141 423
Yingjiang Bus Station: 0692 8180 766
Air
Mangshi Airport, is 6.5 km (4 miles) away from downtown Luxi where there are two long-distance bus stations both of which have daily buses to Dehong.
The majority of Dehong's population is made up of Chinese minority groups famous for their handicrafts and artistic talents. Nearby Myanmar has a vibrant trade and barter system that has been long established with Dehong which brings in many goods from the neighboring country. Although there are not many shops in Dehong to purchase these goods, there are many stands and carts selling these minority treasures and at more than reasonable prices.
Jewelry, furniture, papier mache figures, religious relics and trinkets, clothing, fresh fruit, vegetables and candies, shopping in Dehong can be a bit of an egg hunt but the rewards are well worth the effort. Avoid the shops set up for tourists and any of Dehong's sites as these prices are extremely high very little of which actually ends up in the artists' hands. If you're not up for exhaustive shopping, the Ruili Market has a fairly descent collection of collectibles and food and the Jade Market just outside of town is worth a visit if you're looking for, well, jade stuff.
Dehong has had its fair share of seedy nightlife. As a stop over point for illegal substances derived from Myanmar and an area with such a notorious promiscuity problem, the Chinese government has thrown lots of money into cleaning up the area over the years.
With all that said, like most of China, violence is virtually unheard of and Dehong is generally a safe area for a night out. The town of Ruili has a bit more action in the evening in comparison to Luxi which just boasts the occasional coffee shop or whisky café. If you're in search of a bit more action, Ruili has a lively night market in the heart of town and plenty of bars serving the regional favorite: Thai whisky with soda water. Jo Jo's has cocktails, beer and fresh fruit juices and has become a popular backpacker hang-out over the years.
Although there are no designated museums or galleries in Dehong, the temples and pagodas are magnificent displays of the area's rich cultural past and artistic talents.
Festivals & Events
There are several festivals celebrating minority culture. Munao Zongge Festival on January 15 (according to the Chinese Lunar Calendar) is the largest Jingpo minority celebration. The community's history, prosperity and culture are all acted out throughout the day and traditional song and dance breaks out in the evening. The Woluo Festival on January 4 (also according to the Chinese Lunar Calendar) is a celebration in honor of the local crops and harvest which are burned and sacrificed for the ancestors.