Chengdu (Chéngdū, 成都) is a city that has managed to retain its easygoing Sichuan charm, despite many of its old wooden buildings and narrow streets having been replaced by glittering skyscrapers and shopping centers. Full of lush, green parks, lively temples, outdoor markets, bustling open-air restaurants and a maze of side streets, a tour of Chengdu makes for a unique and pleasurable China experience.
Far from the central powers of eastern China, rugged Sichuan has maintained its distinct culture. From Sichuan opera, with its distinctive "face changing" tricks, fire breathing and gritty humor, to mouthnumbing spicy food and the stunning natural beauty of the region (and its women, so they say), Chengdu is not to be missed. And of course, no visit to Chengdu is complete without going to see the pandas. Venture out of the city to the nearby mountains and drop in to the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base where hordes of Sichuan's famous bamboo-munching giant pandas live in a protected environment.
Sichuan cuisine is famous throughout the world for its tongue-numbing pepper, fiery chili and steamy hot pot, making the province's capital a delicious place to be (those who don't care for spicy fare shouldn't worry—there are plenty of milder alternatives among Chengdu's many restaurants). For a real taste of Sichuan culture however, follow the lead of the locals and head to a Chengdu teahouse. But don't rush it—the idea's not to grab a quick pick-me-up, but to unwind and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere.
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History
The administrative seat of several ancient kingdoms, Chengdu has a 2,300-year history as an important center of study and trade. During the Han Dynasty, the city was called Jincheng (Brocade City) after its thriving silk brocade industry. Once the Han Dynasty fell, giving way to the bloody Three Kingdoms Period, Chengdu became capital of one of the Shu Han (Kingdoms of Shu).
The city continued to develop as a regional center into the Tang and Song dynasties and is known for certain innovations—for example, paper money was first printed and used in Chengdu during the Song Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, it was home to China's best-known pair of poets, Du Fu and Li Bai, perhaps the most famous of many artists and writers who have lived and worked in Chengdu over the centuries.
During World War II, Chongqing, then a part of Sichuan, served as the Nationalist fallback capital after Japan's brutal seizure of the previous capital of Nanjing. Thousands of Chinese officials, scientists, scholars and businesspeople came to Sichuan at that time, bringing a wave of industrial development. After 1945, the Communists rapidly beat back Nationalist forces throughout China, finally besieging Chengdu, where Chiang Kai Shek's army made its final stand before fleeing to Taiwan. The People's Liberation Army took the city on December 10, 1949, and with it, all of Mainland China.
The surrounding Sichuan countryside suffered greatly during the Great Leap Forward (1958-1960), with many perishing of starvation, and Chengdu lost a number of historical monuments, buildings and artifacts during the tumultuous Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). In recent years, the city has come roaring back and now exists as a modern industrial metropolis of over 10 million inhabitants.
Climate
Chengdu experiences pleasant springs, hot and humid summers, cool autumns and temperate but damp winters averaging 5 ºC (41 ºF). July and August can be uncomfortable, with temperatures reaching 35 ºC (95 ºF). In the heat of the summer, many locals seek relief in weekend mountain retreats or venture out after sunset to do business, shop and eat. Summer also sees periods of heavy rain. The best time to visit Chengdu is between March and June or between September and November when it's cooler and less rainy. One explanation for the locals' love of hot and spicy food is that the chilies and pepper help the body cope with the damp climate.
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Think Chengdu food and think hot and hotter. Chengdu's cuisine doesn't skimp on the local chilies, nor does it go light on mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns. Locals claim the sweat-inducing dishes cool the body in the summer and warm it in the winter while Chinese tradition says chili protects you from illnesses and infection—medicine never tasted so good. If you're not into the heat, there's plenty to eat that's gentle on the taste buds.
If you do like it spicy, be sure to try kung pao chicken (gōngbǎo jīdīng, 宫保鸡丁), chicken and peanuts served with chili, and mapo tofu (mápó dòufǔ, 麻婆豆腐), spicy tofu with minced beef and dry chilies. Milder options include fish dishes, often served in a yuxiang sauce (yúxiāng, 鱼香) made of vinegar, ginger, sesame and soy; or cold chicken with sesame and soy sauce (bàngbàng jīsī, 棒棒鸡丝). Hotpot (huǒguō, 火锅), meat and vegetables cooked in boiling broth at your table can be had either mild or spicy.
Try Sichuan cuisine at the city's Chengdu Restaurant on Shandong Dajie (Shāndōng Dàjiē, 山东大街), Longchaoshou Restaurant on Chunxi Lu (Chūnxī Lù, 春熙路), or Grandma Chen's Beancurd Restaurant (Chén Mápó Dòufǔ, 陈麻婆豆腐), which was established in 1842—people say the first owner invented mapo doufu).
Distributed throughout the city, teahouses are more than places for drinking tea and snacking. They are places for relaxation and socializing and as such are a reflection of local life. Here you can enjoy such Chinese favorites such as jasmine, maofeng and zhuyeqing teas and, at a number of teahouses, catch Sichuan opera performances as well—Yuelai Teahouse stages free Sichuan opera performances from 2 to 4pm every Tuesday and Saturday. Heming Teahouse in People's Park is a great place to sit outside, sip and people-watch. Wenshu Monastery Teahouse inside Wenshu Monastery has a good Buddhist vegetarian restaurant next door, Xiangzhai Tang.
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Getting Around
Bikes, inexpensive buses, pedicabs and taxis have the city covered for you. Bus No. 16 runs from the Chengdu North Train Station to Chengdu South Train Station, via People's Square. Bus No. 12 circles the city via Yihuan Lu. Rent bikes for around RMB 10 a day, plus RMB 100 deposit at the Chendgu Traffic Hotel. The new sight-seeing bus routes No. 901 and No. 902 hit most of the main Chengdu tourist destinations and cost RMB 10 for five boardings, RMB 3 for one. The sightseeing bus departs New South Gate Tourist Distributing Center every 30 minutes from 8:30am to 6pm. Look for the open-air double-deckers around town.
Uniformed pedicab drivers rove the city. Interested parties need to bargain, rates start at RMB 5. Tourists may also rent a private car to get around. Rates range from RMB 650 a day for a minibus and RMB 700/day for a car. A driver comes for an additional RMB 50/day (8 hours).
Subway
Currently the lone line, Chengdu's Metro Line 1 opened in August of 2010 and connects the city center with the airport. The line goes through the heart of the city, along Renmin Nan Lu and has stops at numerous consulates, Computer City and Tian Fu Plaza.
Taxi
Cab starting prices are RMB 8 or RMB 9 depending on their age with a ride from the far east to the far west costing around RMB 40. Cabs are a great way to get places quick, but before the metro was installed, it was often tough to get a cab. Also note that many taxi drivers will not accept RMB 100 bills so it's wise to carry some smaller change.
To and from Chengdu
Air
Chengdu Shuangliu Airport, 18 km (11 miles) west of Chengdu, offers Chengdu flights to and from several domestic and international destinations. Regular destinations include Shanghai, Guangzhou, Beijing, Hong Kong and Dalian as well as frequent flights to Bangkok, Singapore, Seoul and Lhasa. Departing visitors from Chengdu can take a 20-minute shuttle bus (RMB 3) from the China Southwest Airlines office on Renmin Nan Lu. A taxi from the center of town to the airport costs around RMB 45.
Train
Rail links Chengdu to a dozen some major Chinese cities including Beijing (8 hours), Shanghai (16 hours), Kunming (22 hours) and Xi'an (17 hours). Purchase tickets at the ticket booking office outside the railway station. Same-day tickets are scarce so make rail travel arrangements at least two days in advance. Some Chengdu hotels arrange train tickets for guests. The railway station is in the north part of the city, a half-hour drive from the city center.
Bus
Buses offer easy access to most of the scenic spots around Chengdu including Yibin, Emei Shan, and Leshan. The bus to Chongqing takes five hours. Three bus stations service Chengdu. The Xinnanmen Bus Station near the Traffic Hotel travels to most southern, western or eastern destinations around Sichuan, the North Bus Station near the North Train Station offers frequent minibuses to Chongqing, and buses departing Ximen Bus Station head north to places like Jiuzhaigou and Songpan.
Chadianzi Bus Station:
Chadianzi has buses leaving regularly for destinations to the west and northwest of Chengdu such as Dujiangyan and Ya'an. The Chadianzi Bus Station is located in the west of Chengdu about twenty minutes from the city center.
Xinnanmen Bus Station:
Xinnanmen Bus Station has regular buses going to every major city and town in Sichuan Province, including Chongqing. The station is the official “tourism” bus station so buses to places such as
Emei Mountain,
Leshan Grand Buddha,
Kangding,
Jiu Zhai Valley etc. leave several times daily from Xinnanmen. Xinnanamen is located on the south side of the
Fu Nan River, right by the traffic hotel.
Moving on to Lhasa:
There are regular Chengdu-Lhasa flights but remember that foreigners can only acces Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) as part of a Tibet tour and require an official Tibet travel permit. This can be purchased, along with the flight, at a travel agent when booking your tour to Tibet.
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The teahouse has long been the heart of cultural life in Chengdu—a place to relax, chat, play games, enjoy performances by local musicians and singers and, of course, linger over hot tea and light Sichuan fare. Today's Chengdu retains a healthy traditional teahouse culture and complements it with a growing nightlife scene and contemporary performance, art and exhibition spaces. Add a busy annual schedule of festivals and special events and there's plenty to do in Chengdu.
Clubs & Bars
The teahouse is the place to meet friends, play cards, people-watch, catch some Sichuan opera, chat or while a few hours away over a good book.
As for bars, Renmin Nan Lu (Rénmín Nán Lù, 人民南路), just north of the US Consulate, is home to a number of watering holes popular with expats and travelers, including the Shamrock Bar, Roo Bar and Carol's. Popular places to hang out are the Hemp House on Dongmen Da Jie (Dōngmén Dàjiē, 东门大街) and the Jah Bar on on Laonanmen Daqiao (Lǎonánmén Dàqiáo, 老南门大桥), next to the massive boat. The local favorite is the Little Bar on Fangqin Jie (Fāngqìn Jiē, 芳沁街), a center for underground music and culture for years.
Performing Arts
Sichuan opera (Chuānjù, 川剧), which is actually practiced throughout Sichuan, Yunnan and Guizhou provinces, goes back to the Qing Dynasty. Performed in Sichuan dialect, this style of Chinese opera is best know for its astonishing "face changing" (biàn liǎn, 变脸) in which actors deftly switch masks with a wave of the hand or turn of the head. It is also known for occasional fire-breathing and earthy humor. The action is physical enough and the costumes bright enough to make for a very entertaining experience even without a decent grasp of the language. Watch for the clown (xiǎochǒu, 小丑), who plays a big role in most performances. You can catch Sichuan opera at the Sichuan Opera Theater, in the Shunxing Old Tea House, in Shufeng Square inside People's Park, in Shufeng Yayun Garden, in Culture Park and in other teahouses and small theaters around town.
Museums & Galleries
For insight into regional culture and history, head to the Sichuan University Museum. You can view ethnic minority Miao, Qiang and Yi handicrafts, Tibetan artifacts and examples of the exquisite silk pieces that have given Chengdu the name "Brocade City." The Three Kingdoms Culture Exhibition Hall, situated within Wuhou Temple, provides a fascinating glimpse into the history of the Three Kingdoms Period of China's history in which Chengdu was capital of Shu Han (the Kingdom of Han). The Chengdu Museum of Modern Art hosts the Chengdu Biennale in even years, though at present a new museum complex is being built (call ahead to make sure it's open). The Giant Panda Breeding Research Center includes a panda museum. And don't forget exemplary Tang poet Du Fu's Cottage.
Festivals & Events
Chengdu is a great place for traditional celebrations. The Chengdu Lantern Show and Huanglongxi Fire Dragon Festival warm up late winter in the first weeks of the Chinese New Year. March, April and May see a series of festivals devoted to flora—welcome the arrival of spring at the Chengdu Flower Fair, Pengzhou Peony Festival or Chengdu International Peach Blossom Festival. You can bid summer farewell in at the Xindu Sweet-scented Osmanthus Festival during the Mid-Autumn Festival.
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