Chengde is best known for Bishu Shanzhuang (also called the Imperial Summer Villa and Mountain Resort), a summer getaway for the Qing emperor and his court that grew to be larger than the Forbidden City and Summer Palace combined. The selection of Chengde for the emperor's summer home also led over time to the establishment of an impressive series of temples. 

Chengde is worth several days to take in all its sights. The great Qing emperors Kangxi and Qianlong, responsible for the glory of Bishu Shanzhuang, used it not only for their own pleasure but as a way to symbolically bind together imperial China's far-flung and restive ethnic minorities. As a result, Chengde's temples and Mountain Resort buildings include wonderful replicas of Tibet's Potala Palace and various Tibetan and Mongolian Lama temples, along with indigenous Manchurian-style buildings and gardens that imitate the fantastic landscapes of southern China.

Though many structures have suffered neglect and damage over the years, a number have been recently restored. Alongside the remains of the imperial summer resort, the area's natural landscape has much to offer, from pleasant paths through woods and grasslands to the bizarre rock formation known as Sledgehammer Rock. For details, visit our Chengde Attractions pages, and let us know about your Chengde experience by submitting your own reviews, photos and comments.

History

Qing emperor Kangxi (1654-1722) came across the site of the Imperial Summer Villa on a hunting trip and was so taken by its rugged, picturesque landscape and cool air that he decided to stay there, at least during the hot Beijing summers. Construction began in 1703 and soon Bishu Shanzhuang (which translates as Flee-the-Heat Mountain) was serving as a second capital, with 36 major buildings in place by 1711. By 1790, Kangxi's grandson, Qianlong, expanded the complex, adding another 36 imperial structures.

Bishu Shanzhuang's role as a second center of a sprawling, multi-ethnic China was enhanced by the construction of numerous buildings in the styles of various minority peoples, including Tibetans, Mongolians, Kazakhs and Manchurians themselves (the Manchu Qing ruled majority Han China as outsiders, at least in the eyes of Han who remained loyal to the deposed Ming Dynasty).

Support for Buddhist institutions was also key to maintaining national unity. Hence, the amazing Puning Temple, the Putuozongcheng Temple (a scale replica of Lhasa's Potala Palace) and other temples built to make visitors from all part of the empire feel welcome.

One such visitor was the Tibetan Panchen Lama, who traveled to Beijing (under orders, it must be said) to celebrate Qianlong's birthday in 1786. One can imagine his surprise at being housed in Putuozongcheng. Sadly, he did not survive the trip, dying either of smallpox or poisoning, depending on who's telling the story. In 1793, the first official emissary from the British Empire, Lord McCartney, paid Qianlong a famous visit. Qianlong dismissed the entreaties made by McCartney on behalf of the British East India Company and King George III, essentially telling them to mind their own business and take note of China's superiority.

Bishu Shanzhuang experienced its heyday under Qianlong, later falling out of imperial favor after two rulers died in Chengde—the emperors Jiaqing (1820) and Xianfeng (1860)—tainting it with a reputation for ill luck. By that time, however, China had more to worry about than an emperor-killing summer retreat—the previously snubbed British were leading the assault by Western imperial nations on China's slipping power, wresting concession after concession from the beleaguered Qing, even going so far as to attack Beijing and loot and burn the Old Summer Palace. In the meantime, an empty Bishu Shanzhuang drifted into obscurity and decay, only to return to prominence over a century later as one of China's premier tourist attractions.

Climate

Despite its imperially bestowed name of "Flee the Heat Mountain," Bishu Shanzhuang and the rest of Chengdu have a climate not far off from that of Beijing. Little differences in temperature and air quality can make a big difference in comfort, however, especially during the dog days of summer in Beijing. If you're coming from the capital, you can generally expect Chengde to be a few degrees cooler (and clearer, at least in terms of air pollution).

The hottest month is July, which sees average high temperatures of 31º C (88º F) and relatively humid air. July is also the wettest month on average. September is lovely, with highs in the mid 20sº C (mid 70sº F), and by October the weather becomes crisp, with clear cool days and average lows at night of 3º C (38º F). Snowfall can come as early as late October and winter is quite cold and dry, with January average lows hitting -16º C (4º F). After fall, spring is generally agreed to be the best time to visit, with April, May and early June being particularly pleasant before the summer heat sets in. Even at the height of summer, however, Chengde nights are refreshingly cool, often dipping into the upper teens Celsius (50s-60sº F).

Many Chengde visitors return to Beijing after a day trip. Given the relative lack of top-quality hotels in Chengde itself, this isn't surprising. What may be more surprising is that such a major tourist attraction doesn't boast major-league accommodations (as of yet, though, this being China and Chengde being within the tourism-blast zone of the 2008 Olympics, we won't be surprised if a spate of new luxury lodgings springs up next week).

That said, Chengde isn't lacking for hotel rooms—far from it. When it comes to best choice and price, your safest bet is to avoid weekends and holidays, pick the hotel you want, and then negotiate your rate down. You should be able to get many down by 50% or more.

Qiwanglou, close to the Bishu Shanzhuang entrance, is one of the best places to stay for its solid three star service, decent contemporary take on Qing-style architecture and location. Shanzhuang is another good choice. It's one of the newer and fancier places in town and is also within easy strolling distance of the Bishu Shanzhuang (Imperial Villa) main gate. Shenghua Hotel is another three-star of good value, this time situated near the train station and long-distance bus station. For budget travelers, most of the local places will do, both price-wise and expectation-wise.

Chengde is surrounded by productive agricultural land and woods and, as is fitting for an old imperial hunting ground, it is reputed to have excellent wild game, including venison, pheasant and rabbit. Local specialties, including past royal favorites such as rose cakes and sticky rice cakes, can be found in snack stalls around town. A number of restaurants specialize in venison and pheasant dishes, and duck is always popular. Chengde's take on hot pot—often featuring saurkraut-like pickled cabbage—is well worth a try. For a real kick, dine like an emperor inside Bishu Shanzhuang (the Imperial Villa) on imperial cuisine.

To and from Chengde

Only 230 kilometers outside of Beijing, Chengde is easily accessible from the capital. Most visitors take the train or bus from Beijing.

Train

Chengde Railway Station lies on Wulie Lu southeast of the city. Several routes, including Jingcheng (Beijing to Chengde), Shicheng (Shijiazhuang to Chengde) and Shencheng (Shenyang to Chengde) meet at this station. Try to buy train tickets 4 or 5 days prior to departure.

Bus

Highway routes 101, 111 and 112 leave Chengde, leading to Beijing, Tianjin, Liaoning and Inner Mongolia. Both Beijing's Sihui Long-Distance Bus Station (opposite the Sihui Metro Station in Chaoyang District) and Xizhimen Bus Station have daily buses leaving every half an hour to Chengde (3.5-4 hours). Inbound buses arrive at Chengde Long-Distance Bus Station near Chengde Railway Station.

Local Transportation

Since Chengde is a small city, getting around is pretty simple. A well-organized bus system services all city districts. Taxi base rate is RMB 5, and inner-city trips should not exceed 7 RMB. For longer hauls, bargain with the taxi drivers beforehand.

The steady flow of tourists into Chengde has assured the success of local handicrafts, all of which can be found around town in shops, malls and small stands. Many of them use materials obtained from the surrounding fields and wooded hills. You'll find local specialties like tree-root sculptures and carved fruit pits along with regional goods including fine paper-cut silhouettes, porcelain scenes, miniature "potted" landscapes, paintings on silk known as sichou guajin, and fascinating folk-art assemblages made of silk, cardboard, gemstones, embroidery, sponge and other elements that are known as "Teng's cloth-pasted pictures."

Chengde is also a good place to pick up locally harvested hazelnuts and almonds, as well as mushrooms, nasturtium and wild medicinal herbs, many of which are fairly rare elsewhere. Almonds are used to create a popular juice reputed to have medicinal qualities.

Chengde is quite laidback compared to nearby Beijing—a nice night out in Chengde might consist of a lengthy dinner with drinks at an outdoor restaurant in the summer. If you're looking for something livelier, you'll find a decent assortment of bars and pubs scattered about town. Local theatrical, dance and musical performances and festivals often celebrate aspects of the cultures long resident on the northern side of the Great Wall (when they weren't conquering and ruling all of China), the Mongolians and Manchurians.