Chamdo, known as Changdu to the Chinese, sits at 3,600 meters in the middle of eastern Tibet's Kham region, which abuts present-day Sichuan to the east and Qinghai to the north. The old Tibetan town wraps around the base of an impressive hill atop which stands the Galden Jampaling Monastery. The new town spreads around the old in typical contemporary Chinese fashion.
Chamdo, Tibet's third-largest city after Lhasa and Shigatse, makes for a pleasant few days' stopover on a larger tour of the region and it's a great place to witness an urban Tibet relatively unfiltered by the massive tourist industry that has sprung up in the capital. It's also an excellent base from which to venture into the surrounding countryside, which offers dramatic vistas and changes in landscape and climate (local sayings have it that one can experience all four seasons on one mountain). Some 25 regional peaks are holy to either Tibetan Buddhists or followers of the ancient Bon faith and fantastically hued alpine lakes dot the surrounding larger region, which is dominated by the north-south spine of the Hengduan Mountains.
From Chamdo, one can head northwest to Riwoche Temple and south toward Pomda and Rowok-Tso. Overland access to Sichuan is also possible, though border crossings can occasionally be tricky (generally exiting Tibet by land is permitted, while entering is strictly regulated).
History
Chamdo (historically referred to as Kham) has been inhabited for well over 5,000 years. The archeological record shows that people were living in small villages and farming for centuries. The Bon religion, a ritual-heavy precursor to Tibetan Buddhism, which arose out of the fusion of local customs with Buddhist teachings from India, is still practiced in certain parts of the larger Chamdo region, though Buddhism is by far and away the predominant cultural and religious force, despite the attempt during the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s and '70s to eradicate local "superstition" and replace it with the cult of Mao.
Chamdo remained in relative isolation from the outside world until the 13th century, when the Mongol Yuan Dynasty claimed Chamdo as part of their vast empire and installed governing officials in the region. The Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) inherited loose control over the area during a time of intense interest outside of Tibet in its unique brand of Buddhism. Chinese political and economic control remained a basic fact of life in Chamdo through the fall of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and into the early years of the Republic of China; the weakness of the latter, however, enabled Tibet to win its independence in 1917 after a bloody interregnum under the Qing official-turned-warlord Zhao Erfung (also known as the "Butcher of Kham"). This period of relative independence came to an abrupt end in 1950, just one year after the Communists vanquished the Nationalist Guomindang in the struggle for greater China; battle-tested and well-organized People's Liberation Army forces easily outmaneuvered and overwhelmed the local Tibetan government in a relatively bloodless takeover. The following year would see the PRC take full control of all Tibet.
The Communists pushed modernization programs that continued certain Qing efforts to reorganize a Tibetan society that the Chinese viewed as hoplessly feudal and backwards. The direct control enjoyed by a combination of Buddhist monks and local hereditary leaders over land and livelihood was broken, modern sanitation and transportation infrastructure were introduced, and Chamdo was set on the often very rough road to "progress." Today, it is a blend of the traditionally Tibetan and the contemporary Chinese, remaining a fascinating study in contrasts.
Climate
Chamdo usually has slightly warmer weather than the rest of Tibet. Average temperatures in the winter are usually around 2 °C (35 °F) and about 28 °C (82 °F) in the summer. The spring and summer in this region can be humid and there is the occasional heavy rain which can make travel difficult. Although rainfall is not frequent in Chamdo, it can and does occur anytime of year so bring your waterproof gear along.
Although Chamdo does not yet have any four-star hotels, there are plenty of places to stay in town accommodating everyone from business travelers to backpackers. Chamdo Hotel (three stars) is the nicest and best-equipped place in town. There are many two-star hotels located in the center of town offering clean and spacious rooms.
There are also plenty of dorm-style hostels in Chamdo, with a range of prices. Those with private bathrooms are on the higher end while some, such as the Guangming Hotel, are affordable but visitors must use the public bathrooms across the street. Staying with locals in their homes or in a monastery is another inexpensive option.
Chamdo dining presents two basic options: Tibetan or Chinese. Tibetan restaurants are, on the whole, less than Chinese and located mostly in the eastern part of town.
For a cheap pseudo-alternative, check out the rather frighteningly named Friendship Happy Good Food City; it's the closest thing you'll find to American fast food. The produce market in town (not open in the evenings) is a good place for fresh fruit and vegetables, with street food vendors selling dirt-cheap yet tasty fare.
Getting Around
Taxis are readily available within the city but many tourists prefer pedicabs which are usually cheaper and allow for passengers to get a better look at the town and its scenery. Hitchhiking is generally safe throughout Tibet and can be used for either short or long distance travel.
To and from Chamdo
Chamdo is situated in eastern Tibet and people usually arrive to the region by plane or long-distance bus. There are several national highways linking Chamdo to other regions both within and outside of Tibet; however, land, rock and mudslides are frequent during the rainy season (summer and spring) which can interrupt traffic and transportation for as long as several days. However, air travel is no more reliable because the same bad weather can often times delay and/or cancel flights.
Air
Chamdo Bandag Airport is the highest airport in the world, though it only offers flights to and from Lhasa (one hour) and Chengdu (fifty minutes). Flights are often cancelled or delayed (particularly those to Chengdu) and the airport is a two to three hour drive from town, so be sure and call ahead to check on the status of your flight: (0895) 482 1004.
Bus
There is just one bus station in Chamdo, fittingly named the Chamdo Bus Station. It has regular buses to Chengdu, Lhasa and several other locations within Tibet (schedules change regularly). Trips to either Chengdu or Lhasa run daily and take between two and two and a half days. Call (0895) 482 7351 or 482 2793 for an updated and accurate schedule.
You'll find markets and shops all around town selling a variety of Tibetan goods: rugs, medicine and herbs, incense, clothing, musical instruments, jewelry and other goodies. Garma Town boasts the best selection of Tibetan handicrafts, while Chaidui Wendangang Village focuses on religious items such as Buddha figures, thangkas (Tibetan paintings) prayer wheels and so forth.
The food market is worth scouting out for its wide variety of produce and meats. Butchers selling yak meat are known to put the giant heads of their animals in their windows to prove authenticity.
Many travelers moving on to more remote areas like to stock up on food and supplies at one of the local grocery stores before heading out into smaller towns or wilderness.
Like most smaller Tibetan cities, visitors generally come for the surrounding natural splendor and to encounter something of the unique Tibetan culture. When it comes to the latter, the best opportunity for a quick culture fix is at the Galden Jampaling Monastery.
The heart of the Tibetan town, the monastery is a fascinating place to witness Tibetan Buddhism in action. Calling it "Art" or "Entertainment" is certainly improper; rather it's a view of the living practice of a deeply held faith. If you're lucky, you can witness a Buddhist "debate" usually held in the afternoon)—highly ritualized and structured formal religious discussions.
If you arrive at the monastery in the morning or right after lunch, you can offobserve the monks reciting prayers, creating a melodic murmur in the assembly hall. There is also a "sky burial" site behind the monastery but visitors are strongly recommended to respect the privacy of this ritual, no matter how tempting it might be to watch on.
If you're feeling inclined to find a little entertainment of a more earthly kind, the Chinese part of town is the place to go. Typically, Chinese settlers have brought their KTV bars and discos with them. Snooker, billiards and darts can be found in several tavern-style bars around town, where you might find other travelers or friendly local Chinese or Tibetans willing to tip a few with you.