Ali (also known as Shiquanhe and Senge Khabab) does not have much of interest for travelers to Tibet, other than access to warm showers, good Chinese food and department stores to stock up on supplies or gear. It's a popular stop-over city en route to nearby attractions, more often than not, Mount Kailash.
Over the past 50 years AIi has become more of a Chinese city than a Tibetan village. An increase in tourism and the resulting influx of tourist dollars has attracted the attention of a significant number of Chinese entrepreneurs. This has resulted in a further increase in Chinese military and decrease in native Tibetan population.
History
Prior to the Cultural Revolution, Ali was a like every other Tibetan village—devoted to Buddhism and survival. Immediately following the PRC's "liberation" of Tibet the town remained relatively untouched by Han Chinese until the 1980s. The Chinese started to revamp and develop an infrastructure within the township of Ali and today, the city is quickly expanding the southern outskirts of what used to be a quaint and humble Tibetan town.
Climate
Weather in these parts is cold. Average temperatures in the winter are a brisk -12° (10° F) and in the summer warm up to the low teens, around 13°C (56°F). Snowfall is common all year round.
There are several different choices of places to stay in Ali, most of which are inexpensive and clean, but ugly and certainly not with any extra amenities. The Ying Hostel is the only dorm-style accommodation in town with its own bathrooms (all others have public toilets and showers nearby). Shiquanhe Hotel is the nicest place in town (rated two-stars) and offers rooms with or without private bathrooms.
Given the large number of Han Chinese in Ali there are options other than bland Tibetan cuisine. There are a number of Sichuan and Uyghur restaurants in town that serve inexpensive meals in addition to several good noodle shops. The vegetable market has great cheap produce as well as delicious street food nearby. The grocery stores in town are a good place to stock up on food supplies if you're heading off into more remote areas.
Around Ali
Taxis do not have meters so be sure and agree on a price before starting your trip. Hiring a car for long distance trips is a good idea.
To and From Ali
Bus
The only way to Ali is by road. Most travelers arrive in Lhasa first and travel to Ali by bus or hiring a car. There is a bus that departs every other day at 5 p.m. from the Beijiao Bus Station in Lhasa (0891 6922 104). The trip is long, almost two days long. Many travelers choose to hire a car for a faster journey.
Ali Bus Station (0897 2826 591) has buses that travel to Yecheng in Xinjiang Province as well as Lhasa and Shigatse. Details are as follows:
Yecheng: one bus every three days that leaves at 2:00 p.m., the trip takes about 40 hours. Lhasa: one bus every two days departing at 12:30 p.m., the trip takes about 55 hours. Shigatse: one bus every four days departing at 11:00 a.m., the trip takes about 50 hours.
There is very little souvenir shopping to be done in Ali. It is, however, a good place for purchasing outdoor supplies and food if you are continuing your travels into the wilds beyond.
Bars & Clubs
There are a couple karaoke bars, taverns and clubs in town. The club/karaoke bar in the basement of the Shiquanhe Hotel is usually the loudest and most popular place in Ali. Pool has become quite a popular pastime in Tibet and there are many restaurants and bars that have beer and beat-up pool tables to play on nearby the main roundabout.