The major draw of the tiny little town of Xizhou (Xǐzhōu, 喜州), propped up between Erhai Lake and the Cang Shan mountains, are the beautiful homes of the Bai minority families that prospered here for centuries, trading in marble and tea and providing safe havens for fleeing Nationalist soldiers.

Xizhou is just 30 km (18.6 mi) from Xiaguan (Xiàguān, 下关) and just down the lake from Dali Old Town. It long served as a fortress and commercial center for the Bai minority, from the reign of the Nanzhao Kingdom (730-902 AD) until today.

The Bai merchants took advantage of Xizhou's location on the southern Silk Road that leads from India through Burma, across Yunnan and north to Chengdu and on to Xi'an, selling all manner of local products, taxing caravans and other business.

The accumulated wealth looks to have been invested fully into Xizhou's homes, which are beautiful villas with central courtyards, decorated arches, uniquely crafted flying eaves and other details that make the Bai architecture of Xizhou one of China's best examples of Qing Dynasty architecture.

Xizhou has a large and lively market on the weekends—there is not that much for a Westerner to buy except for trinkets and food, but the scene is interesting and camera-friendly.

Aside from the market, Xizhou is a strolling town: walk down the lanes and take notes of the beautiful homes, walk down to the lake or take a hike up into the hills. If you stay long enough in town, it is highly likely that someone will invite you in for tea and/or dinner.

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