Though Lanzhou's image has been tarnished by a reputation for heavy pollution, bear in mind that media coverage of China is often laced with hyperbole. Lanzhou sees blue skies fairly regularly, thanks to new environmental reforms, and the place to be on days like those is White Pagoda Park. The orginal pagoda is rumored to have been built in tribute to a monk who died on his way to an appointment with Genghis Khan. That pagoda toppled, but was rebuilt by the Ming Dynasty's first emperor, military genius Zhu Yuanzhang, with later additions coming in the Qing Dynasty. When you get to the park, take the lan che (chairlift) up to get a good look at Buddhist imagery on the pagoda's eight sides. The pagoda is quite photogenic taken against the mountainous backdrop, but the view of the city on a clear day is even better. And even on less-than-blue-sky days, the pagoda is a fascinating reminder of Lanzhou's past.